Trimming a hedge accurately is not a closed book. This tutorial familiarizes garden novices with all the basics of trimming deciduous and coniferous hedges. Here you can read everything you need to know about the most important types of cuts, the best dates and the skillful cut for a flawless hedge trimming.

Hedges are best trimmed with electric shears

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. Pruning deciduous hedge
  3. Topiary deciduous hedge
  4. Pruning deciduous hedge
  5. Rejuvenation cut deciduous hedge
  6. Construction cut coniferous hedge
  7. Topiary Coniferous Hedge
  8. Rejuvenation cut yew hedge
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. Important types of cuts with appointments

    In general, a deciduous hedge is more tolerant of pruning than a coniferous hedge. This principle is based on the fact that most deciduous trees from perennial and old wood will sprout again, so that even radical types of pruning, such as regeneration pruning, are possible without any problems. Conifers, on the other hand, consistently refuse to sprout if you cut into the area without needles. Nevertheless, cutting care is one Coniferous Hedge even for the beginner not a difficult task.

    the time of hedge trimming is just as important as that cutting technique yourself. If you twirl your scissors on a spring-flowering hedge in late winter, this year's flower will fall out. Vigorous hedges should be trimmed at least twice a year. In short, successful hedge trimming is based on the knowledge of a few key factors. The following table summarizes the most important types of cuts with the correct dates:

    Types of cuts and dates Spring flowering deciduous hedge Summer flowering, deciduous or evergreen deciduous hedge Coniferous Hedge
    Construction and shape cut after flowering February February to early March
    care cut optional on St. John's Day (June 24) late June to mid-July late June to early August
    thinning cut late November to late February late November to late February February to early March
    taper cut late November to late February late November to late February not possible (exception: yew)

    Almost all hedge plants benefit from pruning. Primarily after planting bare-root deciduous shrubs, you will start strong branching at the base of the shrub if you pull out the scissors on the same day. Cut back all shoots by half. With this measure you cause a juice accumulation on the lower buds, which then sprout more. On evergreen deciduous shrubs and conifers, the pruning is more moderate by a maximum of 5 to 10 centimeters.

    Set up a deciduous hedge - dense growth from the start

    Planted in a row, deciduous trees form a dense green wall within a few years. Popular species are hornbeam, field maple and cherry laurel, whose foliage does not allow prying eyes. Also very popular are flowering shrubs, such as pear, cornel or summer lilac, which shine with colorful flowers in combination with the foliage. All hedge shrubs benefit from one gradual build-up cut, aiming for dense branching from root to crown. Gradual pattern training during the early years is the key to success. How to do it right:

    • Cut the deciduous hedge twice a year to the desired final height
    • With each cut, cut all the shoots so that 5 to 10 centimeters remain from the last growth
    • Remove twigs that are growing inside the hedge, stunted and too close together
    • Raise the sides, flanks and top in equal steps in height and width

    As shown in the image below, give your hedge a conical profile from the start. A hedge should always be wider at the bottom than at the top. This is the only way to ensure that the branches do not shade each other. Without a continuous supply of light, photosynthesis comes to a standstill and the hedge becomes bare. Strings stretched between wooden pegs serve as a guide.

    Raise a deciduous hedge gradually. With each cut, 5 to 10 centimeters remain from the last growth. Prune twice a year, encourage dense branching from base to crown. When choosing the date, note whether the shrubs will flower in spring or summer.

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    Being aware of the law of top promotion is part of the basics of hedge trimming

    If the gardener is familiar with the growth law of peak support, he will use the scissors with a sure hand. In every grove the juices flow upwards. This applies equally to the entire plant and the individual branches. the respective top bud gets the strongest juice pressure and drives out the strongest. The sap pressure on lower-lying buds is reduced the greater the distance to the top bud. With a cut, the sap flow changes below the cut. Fewer buds need to be supplied with the same juice pressure. As a result, deeper-lying buds sprout more vigorously. The gradual growth pruning takes advantage of this connection by cutting off the respective top buds so that the hedge branches out richly from the base.

    Cutting deciduous hedges into shape - instructions for beginners

    Once the deciduous hedge has reached the targeted height and width, pruning leads to an annual shape and maintenance cut. For the majority of popular hedge plants, a single cut is perfectly sufficient for a well-groomed appearance. With the exception of early flowering hedge shrubs, February has emerged as the ideal period. There is no risk of disturbing nesting birds. As a result of a longer regeneration time after the early cut, the cut hedge appears as if peeled from the egg by May. How to complete a professional shape and maintenance cut:

    • Clean and disinfect cutting tools beforehand
    • Tension cords as a guide for the advantageous trapezoidal shape
    • In the first step, thin out all dead wood as well as unfavorable and weak shoots
    • Then trim all hedge sides to the desired extent
    • Always work facing the uncut area

    The order in which you devote yourself to the hedge sides is up to you. Many home gardeners cut the crown of the hedge in advance. This has the advantage that the proportions for the sides and flanks can be better assessed. A cherry laurel hedge with a large volume comes into its own better than hedges made of hornbeam that grow like trees.

    Cut a formal deciduous hedge into the desired shape in February. In June/July, the grooming section is dedicated to this year's growth. The trapezoidal shape with a broader base guarantees light-flooded, densely leafed growth.

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    Large-leaved deciduous hedge better cut with manual hedge trimmers

    Hedges made of large-leaved deciduous trees are very popular with private gardeners. The prime example is cherry laurel, which impresses with shiny green leaves that are up to 14 centimeters long. You can cut the perfect hedge with a pair of manual two-handed shears. Thanks to controlled cutting, you can achieve a flawless cut. In contrast to this, the decorative leaves are mercilessly shredded by the counter-rotating knife bar of an electric hedge trimmer (€77.00).

    Prune strong-growing deciduous hedges again in June - maintenance pruning instructions

    St. John's Day (June 24th) is no longer the traditional date for trimming hedges. Many years of field trials by the Saxon State Institute for Horticulture have shown that almost all hedges grow denser and more evenly if the Main cut in February he follows. The date from pruning care was not completely deleted, because fast-growing deciduous hedges benefit from a light one care cut at this time.

    In concrete terms, a light grooming cut means that you this year's increase at about one Cut back thirds. The pruning should not be more extensive, otherwise the hedge plants lose too much of their substance. The remaining leaves are important for building up nutrient reserves for the autumn and winter period. Only in February does the time window for a hedge cut open again.

    Stick to the grooming cut of the advantageous, conical hedge shape loyal to. As shown in the figure below, sloping sides and flanks on your hedge guarantee light-flooded growth. Cords stretched between poles are helpful for orientation during cutting work.

    Always cut a deciduous hedge in a moderate trapezoidal shape. With a broad base and narrow top, the branches cannot shade each other and the hedge remains densely branched and richly leafed everywhere.

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    A hedge of spring-flowering shrubs, such as forsythia or broom, should not be trimmed after St. John's Day (June 24). At this time, the flower beauties are busy preparing the buds for the next year. No hedge trimmers should get in the way of the trees, as they would destroy all hopes of a spring-fresh blossom festival.

    Successfully rejuvenate a deciduous hedge - step-by-step instructions

    You can revitalize an old, bare and misshapen deciduous hedge by pruning the shrubs far into the perennial wood. Many home gardeners shy away from putting a hedge radically on the stick. A rejuvenation cut, which you divide into two to three stages, is gentler and more promising. The following guide explains step by step how to do it right:

    • First step: in late winter, cut back the top and one flank to short cones with a branch
    • Second step: in late winter, shorten the other flank to a stub with a side branch
    • Parallel to the second step, shorten the fresh shoots on the top and flank by a third

    It depends on the type of wood how quickly new shoots start to emerge from the dormant eyes of the stubs. For some hedge shrubs, the process can take one to three years. While waiting, continue the nutrient and water supply unabated.

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    Hedge regeneration is subject to legal regulations

    Raising awareness of the need to protect nature is expressed in the Federal Nature Conservation Act. Paragraph 39 deals in detail with the pruning of all types of wood and sets strict regulations for the choice of date. Radical pruning measures, such as putting a hedge on the stick, are limited to the period from October 1st to February 28th. The grace period extends from March 1st to September 30th, and only allows for light grooming cuts. In principle, before trimming a hedge, it must be ensured that no wild animals are disturbed, driven away or impaired in any way.

    Building a coniferous hedge requires patience - this is how it works

    Only the brilliant coniferous hedges give famous castle gardens and legendary parks a magical ambience. Home gardeners rely on thuja, yew and other conifers when it comes to setting up a windproof and opaque hedge as a fence or border. The most important difference to deciduous shrubs: Coniferous trees no longer sprout from old, needleless wood. A gradual build-up is therefore of particular importance for coniferous hedges. This is how the hedge thrives dense and compact from the start:

    • Prune twice a year, in February and June
    • Leave 3 to 5 centimeters of new growth with each cut
    • Raise the coniferous hedge in a trapezoidal shape right from the start
    • Cut off shoots pointing towards the inside of the hedge and visibly weak twigs at the base

    Be critical when buying conifers. On average, 5 to 10 years are invested in the professional training of a softwood hedge. To make the investment of time worthwhile, only use young shrubs that are already thriving upright and densely bushy. Wide or columnar plants are not suitable for hedging. We recommend the fast-growing border yew 'Hillii' (Taxus media) and the popular arborvitae 'Smaragd' (Thuja occidentalis).

    Building a densely needled coniferous hedge requires a step-by-step approach. Prune cautiously in the green in February and June. The coniferous hedge should have gained a maximum of 5 centimeters in height after each cut.

    This keeps the conifer hedge perfectly in shape

    Once your coniferous hedge has reached the desired size, the pruning continues with an annual trimming. Depending on the type of coniferous wood, pruning is on the gardening schedule in February and June/July. Continue to move the hedge trimmer only in the green area so that no brown spots or holes appear. Nevertheless, you should get as close as possible to the previous interfaces. If you only add 1 centimeter per side to each shape cut, the hedge will gain another 20 centimeters in width within 10 years. On small plots of land, this creates a space problem over time.

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    Cut correctly for an accurate cutting pattern

    With a few simple tricks, you can effectively prevent wavy hedge flanks and a crooked hedge crown. Before starting the cutting work, stretch a cord between two sticks as a guide for orientation. When cutting, stand next to the hedge so that you can see both the cord and the uncut hedge area. Hold the scissors parallel to the hedge with straight arms and cut out of the shoulders with even swinging movements. Dents in the hedge crown are excluded if you hold the cutter bar of the electric hedge trimmer horizontally and swing it out from behind.

    Rejuvenating a yew hedge - this is how the ambitious project succeeds

    Conifers are not suitable for a radical rejuvenation cut - with one exception. The vigorous yew comes along with a good-natured tolerance to cuts, which can even cope with a hard cut into the old wood. While thuja, cypress, fir and pine consistently refuse to sprout again from needleless shoots, fresh branches of a yew even sprout directly from the trunk. As illustrated in the figure below, a step-by-step approach makes sense. That is how it goes:

    • The best time is in late winter to March 1st, in accordance with growth and the Federal Nature Conservation Act
    • First stage: pruning one side of the hedge down to short stubs on the scaffolding shoots
    • Second stage: Trim the top to 50 centimeters below the desired final height of the hedge
    • Third stage: Trim the second side of the hedge except for short pegs on the shrub framework

    If you follow this pruning strategy, your hedge will always have sufficient needle volume for the formation of reserve substances for new shoots. After the third stage, initiate growth into a dense coniferous hedge with a gradual build-up cut.

    The yew hedge is the only conifer that tolerates regeneration. Proceed in stages. In the first year, cut off one side and one flank, in the second year cut back the height of the hedge plants. Last year cut out the other side and flank.

    frequently asked Questions

    Are there hedge shrubs that grow quickly, offer year-round privacy and are easy to cut?

    Firethorn 'Red Column' (Pyracantha coccinea) is one of the premium varieties among the fast-growing and evergreen hedge shrubs. With an annual increase of up to 60 centimeters, the privacy function is not long in coming. Equipped with long, sharp thorns, a firethorn hedge reliably wards off uninvited guests. As a rule, a shape and thinning cut after the flowering period in June is sufficient to keep the hedge dense and vital. Protecting the gardener from the thorn dress is the only challenge in pruning care. The large-leaved barberry (Berberis julianae) and the pruning-tolerant varieties derived from it score with similar advantages.

    I would like to plant a deciduous hedge on my fenced property, preferably with hornbeam bushes as a privacy screen. How big should the planting distance be between the fence and the hedge? How often does a hornbeam hedge have to be cut?

    A distance of 50 to 60 centimeters from the fence is advisable. This allows the hedge to grow sufficiently wide and you have enough space for trimming. In February, hornbeams receive an extensive shape and thinning cut. For a well-groomed appearance, cut back this year's growth between the end of June and mid-July.

    We live in a snowy region. Every year my thuja hedge almost collapses under the white load if I don't regularly sweep the snow off the hedge crown.How can I prevent the evil?

    As beautiful as a hedge with a white crest is to look at, it still has a considerable weight on the crown. To effectively prevent snow breakage, we recommend a special hedge shape with a pointed crown and a wide base. The smaller the hedge area at the top, the less snow can accumulate.

    I am annoyed by several gaps in my boxwood hedge. What can I do against it?

    The causes are manifold, the result is always annoying. Gaps and holes mar the neat appearance of a boxwood hedge for many years. If shadows from neighboring plants are the cause, please cut them back accordingly. With a simple gardening trick, you can close the gaps faster. Bridge the gaps between adjacent shoots with horizontal or diagonal bamboo sticks. Cut off the shoot tips a little, also stimulate growth and the gap will soon be gone.

    A formal deciduous hedge is to my liking. I would much rather plant a free-growing, mixed flowering hedge. What should be considered when cutting?

    Free-growing flowering hedges are an asset to any garden. As a blooming refuge for birds and small animals, the hedge can also serve as an enclosure and privacy screen. Trimming is more reserved than with formal deciduous hedges. Annual thinning in late winter is more important than pruning branches. Continuous rejuvenation is advantageous for opaque growth. In January or February, you thin out the oldest shoots on the ground in exchange for young shoots. Adjust the timing of the cut to the flowering period. Prune spring flowering shrubs at the end of the flowering period. Summer flowering hedge shrubs are pruned in late winter.

    I planted my privet hedge in mid-May. Without pruning, it has now reached a height of a good 70 centimeters in October. The goal is a 1.50 meter high, opaque hedge. Unfortunately, I've only now read your instructions for blending. Under these conditions, when and how do you recommend pruning?

    There is nothing wrong with cutting back the hedge by a third now (mid-October). Alternatively, leave the plants as they are and carry out the pruning at the best time in February. Trim the hedge plants a second time at the end of June. Shorten each new growth by a third. Since privet is a strong-growing deciduous tree, you can do another moderate pruning during the development phase in September/October to support bushy branching. At the same time, please ensure an adequate supply of water and nutrients.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Gardeners have fallen victim to a pruning error if the hedge is bare from the start, is spoiled by brown spots and holes, or no longer sprout after a rejuvenation cut. To save the readers of this tutorial from the worst mistakes when trimming hedges, the following table lists common mistakes with tips for prevention.

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    not cut in trapezoidal shape premature balding from below and inside Always cut hedges with a broad base and a narrow crown
    radically put on the stick Total loss of all hedge bushes Rejuvenate deciduous hedges in stages
    Coniferous hedge cut back heavily brown spots and holes in the cross section Always cut conifers in the needled area

    A common mistake when trimming hedges is not due to a pruning error. If unclean scissors are used for cutting care, diseases and pest infestation are inevitable. Statistics have proven that the spread of fungal infections, aphids and other vermin is primarily due to uncleaned blades, saw blades and cutter bars. Before trimming the hedge, please clean the tool with hot water and then disinfect it with spirit.

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    tips

    Transplanting requires unscheduled hedge trimming. It often becomes apparent within the first five years that a hedge is too close to buildings, roads or neighboring properties. The successful change of location depends largely on cutting the hedge bushes by a third or half before or after.

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