Conifers are the evergreen constant in the floral interplay of the garden. Fir, pine, cypress, spruce and yew hardly change their shape over the years because they grow slowly and wear their needles all year round. In contrast to deciduous trees, care should be taken when pruning. A regulating cut is still advantageous, provided important premises are observed. In this tutorial you will learn everything you need to know about professional conifer pruning.

Most conifers should only be pruned sparingly

Table of Contents

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  1. Why cut?
  2. mnemonic
  3. Built-up cut solitaire
  4. Conservation cut solitaire
  5. Topiary Sculpture
  6. Plant cut hedge
  7. Construction cut hedge
  8. Topiary hedge
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. Why should conifers be pruned from time to time? - Types of cuts and dates

    Conifers grow extremely slowly - but they grow. In contrast to deciduous trees, conifers have a growth only to the shoot tips instead of. Below their needles, the trees and shrubs have stopped growing forever. In open coniferous and mixed forests, the process takes place in a controlled manner, without pruning taking place or being necessary. Limited garden space, cultivation as a hedge or topiary sometimes require horticultural intervention to regulate growth. The following table summarizes all options for cutting conifers:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment optional, second date optional third date
    Built-up cut solitaire shapely habit, reliable stability February to early March late June to mid-July none
    Conservation cut solitaire growth regulation if necessary in late winter (February to early March) possibly late June to mid-July none
    Topiary solitaire Creation of geometric or artistic shapes late February/early March late June to mid-July early to mid-August
    Plant cut hedge strong branching at the base after planting February of the following year none
    Construction cut hedge opaque, light-flooded growth February to early March (main date) End of June to mid-July (strong-growing varieties) Mid to late August (strong-growing varieties)
    Topiary hedge Conservation of shape, height and width End of June to mid-July (main date) Mid to late August (optional) none

    Conifers do not survive a rejuvenation cut. The trees do not lay dormant buds that sprout as an "iron reserve" when twigs, branches or trunks are lost. The only exception is the yew tree, for which a separate tutorial is devoted to pruning, including instructions for taper pruning.

    Rule of thumb for the conifer pruning prevents pruning errors

    For newcomers to gardening and experienced home gardeners who are cutting a conifer for the first time, a simple rule of thumb provides security when cutting:

    • Cut little and only in the needled, green area of conifers

    As long as you stay in the "green coat" when pruning, you can't go wrong with conifers and coniferous shrubs. An exception applies to completely dead branches that you saw off at the base or on the branch. From this point of view, the pruning of conifers is less complicated than that of deciduous and flowering trees. When pruning shrubs and trees, you need to become familiar with numerous factors, such as flowering time, bud placement, and pruning tolerance. When pruning conifers, you only have to keep an eye on the green (sometimes blue or golden yellow) needles, in the area of which a pruning is possible.

    Built-up cut on the solitaire optimizes shape and stability - pattern instructions

    If you are cultivating a fir, spruce, pine or other tree-like conifer in your garden, you can safely skip this section of the tutorial. These types of conifers naturally develop a stable, vitally branched basic structure and do not become bare even after many years. Shrubby coniferous trees, such as arborvitae (Thuja), Leyland cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii), yew (Taxus) or false cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana) benefit from a targeted build-up cut.

    Upright-growing, bushy conifer species form several skeletal shoots that compete with each other. Each individual shoot strives with all its might towards the exposed outside and from there towards the sky. This results in a one-sided shift in weight in the first few years, which is fatal to the plants in the event of snow pressure and storms. A patient and expert build-up pruning aims at a stable structure that will give your conifer a lifelong stability. How to do it right:

    • The frequency of the top-up cut depends on the species-specific growth potential
    • The best time is in late winter, before budding begins
    • Prune fast-growing conifers again at the end of June and mid-August
    • Choose 3 dominant bottom shoots and let them grow uncut
    • Subordinate further ground shoots to the trellis shoots and every few years derive them from deeper, short side shoots

    A staggered structure of bottom shoots and side shoots, which gather around the 3-part framework, optimizes stability and protects your conifer from wind and snow damage. Please note that conifers are slow growing not every year are to be cut. If the annual growth is limited to 2 to 5 centimeters, as with some pine or juniper species, the scissors are used every 2 to 3 years or less often.

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    Derivative pruning with a key function in the conifer pruning

    If conifer gardeners are familiar with the derivation pruning, pruning is masterful. The pruning technique comes from the demanding pruning of fruit trees and has proven to be beneficial for all deciduous and coniferous trees. If you simply cut off branches that are too long or awkwardly positioned on conifers, you will leave a gap even if you are within the green needle zone. A derivation cut prevents the shortcoming. Examine the shoot in question for a green short side shoot below. Cut off the old shoot where the young shoot branches off. Put the scissors just behind the crotch on so as not to damage the young wood.

    Pruning keeps conifers in perfect shape - pruning instructions

    Solitary conifers or shrubs will thrive for many years without the need for pruning. In old age, the shape of pine, juniper, fir and other conifers sometimes leaves a lot to be desired. If too long or dying, bare branches affect the appearance, intervene promptly as long as you can cut in the needled area. The best time is in late winter, before new shoots begin. Alternatively, another time window is open from the end of June to mid-July.

    Unfavorably growing twigs are diverted in the needled area to a more favourable, short side branch. The figure below shows the correct procedure. Bend the branch in question to the side in advance to identify any gaps that may form. If necessary, move the cutting point outwards a bit until any bald spot is covered by needled side shoots.

    If a conifer shoot gets too long, a diversion cut will fix the problem. Prune the shoot back to a young, green side branch that will continue to grow as a new tip at that point.

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    Sometimes two or three vertical central shoots thrive on young fir trees, all of which would like to conquer the top position. If a double or triple top is not to your liking, prune the weakest shoots in summer while they are still green.

    Shape cutting for a green work of art - this is how a conifer sculpture succeeds

    Conifers are very popular for shaping them as spheres, cones, pyramids and artistic figures. Basically, the special variant of training follows the cutting rules for the coniferous hedge. Depending on the type of tree selected, pruning is more frequent to regulate growth and shape. Reach for slender conifers to form pyramids or spirals, like Thuja 'Smaragd'. Spherical tree of life varieties such as 'Danica' or 'Tiny Tim' naturally have a spherical habit. Stencils made of wood or wire provide valuable help with a flawless result. The following overview summarizes the central framework conditions for topiary on conifer sculptures:

    • Time slot for topiary: early March to late August
    • Gradually build up the conifers in stages of a maximum of 5 centimeters growth
    • Design the shape from the start using a template
    • It is better to cut often and little instead of infrequently and a lot
    • Concentrate the cutting circumference on the needle area

    The premium conifer for topiary as a green work of art is the yew. Taxus is the only coniferous tree that tolerates a cut into the needleless wood. This means that small editing errors in the heat of the moment are not immediately punished with brown spots and gaps. However, the yew is very poisonous and not suitable for the family garden.

    Build up a conifer in stages for artistic topiary. Templates provide valuable guidance for the perfect cut when raising and maintaining cones, pyramids and fantasy figures.

    Shape conifers into garden bonsai - tips for pruning

    Bonsai-shaped conifers catch envious looks over the garden fence. The masterpiece succeeds through an annual cut along the shoot tips. You give the woody plants the artistic shape wire, as is common in small-format indoor bonsai. Start garden bonsai training as early as possible, conifers thrive with short, dense shoots. In this way, even beginners can achieve the trendy multi-storey growth that is particularly popular with pines.

    Cut the coniferous hedge on the day of planting - this is how you do it right

    When purchasing conifers for hedge planting, please pay attention not only to the height of the dominant central shoot. Your coniferous hedge will bring you a lot of joy when you start with overall densely branched young trees he follows. Don't rely on your sense of proportion when planting. For a straight arrangement of the row of shrubs, please stretch strings as a guide. Before watering the new hedge with fresh water, do the following pruning:

    • Rule of thumb: the younger hedge conifers, the harder the cut on the day of planting
    • Shorten plants up to a height of 30 cm by at least a third
    • Prune plants over 30 cm tall by 5 to 10 cm in height and by a third on the sides and flanks

    Please clear away the cuttings before spoiling your new hedge with a starter fertilization. Scatter 100 to 150 grams of horn shavings (€32.93) per meter of hedge on the planting strips and water. Finally, spread a thin layer of compost or bark mulch to keep the soil from drying out.

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    Plant pruning acts as an effective diversion of reserve substances

    What the deflected shot is supposed to achieve in football, pruning takes over in conifers. If the ball does not fly in the desired direction, the player deflects the trajectory towards the goal. In the case of trees and shrubs, the growth juices strive under pressure in the direction of the top buds, where a correspondingly strong budding takes place. Deeper-lying buds are not or minimally involved in the distribution. In this regard, the goals of Konifere and Gärtner do not conform. In order for hedge shrubs to branch vigorously at the base, the plant sap must be diverted. You can do this by removing the top buds with a bold plant pruning. From then on, buds planted deep below benefit from the newly distributed juice pressure and diligently sprout.

    Trimming the coniferous hedge pays off

    Conifers grow an average of 10 to 20 centimeters a year. With annual growth of 30 centimeters, Thuja Smaragd or Taxus baccata are already regarded as growth rockets in the conifer kingdom. It takes many years of patience until a hedge with a privacy function has formed. Even a knee-high bed or grave border takes several years to reach the desired shape and height.

    Many home gardeners make the understandable mistake of letting a coniferous hedge grow uncut for the first few years. Of course, without pruning, the conifers lose stability and shapeliness. Give your new coniferous hedge a thrashing successive build-up cut, it thrives densely bushy and stable. How to proceed correctly:

    • Prune the coniferous hedge at least twice a year during the growth years
    • Leave 5 cm of the previous growth with each pruning
    • The best dates are February and the end of June (optionally a third time in mid/end of August)
    • Strings open as a marking aid for a conical hedge profile
    • Raise the hedge base by a third wider than the hedge crown
    • Remove any shoots that are pointing inwards and are noticeably weak

    The image below demonstrates the perfect hedge shape as trapeze. When conifer hedges taper towards the crown, the individual coniferous shrubs thrive flooded with light. This has the advantage that the green needle coat extends deep into the interior of the hedge and offers a reliable privacy factor. In addition, less snow remains on a narrow hedge surface, which reduces the risk of snow breakage. Last but not least, hedge shoots do not fall apart, as is the case with uncut coniferous hedges.

    Conifer hedges in a trapezoidal shape are dense and bushy, more stable, have a harmonious shape and do not fall apart. For this purpose, the growth section is dedicated to a gradual increase in height of a maximum of 10 centimeters per year.

    Coniferous hedge at its best - instructions for topiary

    Once your coniferous hedge has reached the desired height and is resplendent in rich needles, it is up to the shape cut to maintain its splendour. The pruning measure focuses on this year's growth, so that you do not come into conflict with the Federal Nature Conservation Act with the ideal date at the end of June and optionally in mid-August. Hedge trimming is permitted during the grace period from March 1 to September 30, provided that the scope is limited to this year's growth. How to cut correctly:

    • First up the hedge nesting birds investigate and reschedule the appointment if necessary
    • Cut dead shoots and shoots growing inside the hedge with one-handed scissors
    • As a guide for a tapered section profile stretch strings along the hedges
    • Swivel the hedge trimmer (€77.00) up and down parallel to the cutting surface with your arms stretched out
    • Trim the top side out from the back with the cutter bar in a horizontal position

    cut up briefly to the last interfaces come and stay in green area. A further increase is no longer an advantage in this phase, but leads to space problems over the years. Just 1 centimeter of growth per side and year increases the hedge by a whopping 20 centimeters after 10 years.

    Prune strong-growing coniferous hedges as early as February

    When it comes to pruning vigorous arborvitae or false cypresses, garden practice has proven that a first topiary in February sends the hedges into spring with a well-groomed appearance. If you are dissatisfied with your coniferous hedge at the end of winter, don't hesitate to grab the hedge trimmers. Trim the green gem on an overcast, frost-free day. Just in time for the first festive days of the year, such as Easter or children's communion, you can look forward to a representative appearance.

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    Cut large coniferous hedges into shape electrically

    For topiary of a majestic coniferous hedge more than 10 meters long, we recommend an electric hedge trimmer. Please remember that you are cutting in the middle of the nesting season and the roar of petrol engines will scare away the bird life in your garden. To keep a long power cord out of your way, simply sling it over your shoulder. If your condition allows it, trim smaller hedges manually with a two-handed hedge trimmer. Modern shrub shears with battery operation are powerful and can also handle larger hedge areas. If necessary, a spare battery should be charged and ready to hand so that you can complete the shape cut without annoying interruptions.

    frequently asked Questions

    My 8 year old sugar loaf spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') is getting a bit too big for me. Can I prune the conifer for the first time now in March?

    A light cut is possible at the end of the winter growth dormancy.It is important to note that you only cut a little and do not pierce the "green coat". Inside the tree, the needles are brown and dead due to the lack of light. If you cut the sugar loaf spruce too deeply, you will create holes that will be visible for many years. The conifer is not able to close the gaps with green needles from the inside.

    After a hard winter with temperatures below -20 degrees Celsius, our Nordmann fir has brown shoot tips. Inside the fir is still nice and green. Can I cut off the brown tips?

    The Nordmann fir is naturally very frost hardy. If the conifer is too dry, severe frosts can damage the tips of the young needles. We recommend not cutting at first, but rather improving the local framework conditions. Provide the fir with sufficient water and fertilizer. With a bit of luck, the brown twig tips will regenerate on their own and you can save yourself the risk of a cut.

    With our new house we bought an old thuja hedge that obviously hasn't been trimmed for several years. With a width of 2.50 meters and a height of 3.50 meters, the hedge is much too big for us. Can we cut back the trees of life? If yes, when and how?

    If you want to make sure that the tree of life hedge is considering pruning, you can only cut in the green shoot area. If you continue to cut into the old, brown wood, a well-established thuja hedge can, with a lot of luck, cope with it and will sprout again. If the framework conditions are not so favourable, a total failure is to be feared. It is up to you to decide which result is more important to you. The safe survival of the tree of life hedge or the desired height and width with the risk of having to replant the entire hedge. The best time to cut is in February on a frost-free day.

    We planted our Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) two years ago. We underestimated the growing power of the conifer, because it is already 1.50 meters high and much too big for the current location. We would like to transplant the cedar. When is the best time? Does the cedar need to be cut?

    After two years you are in the right time frame to transplant a conifer. The best time is in late winter or early spring, when severe frosts are no longer to be feared and the cedar has not yet started to sprout. It is important for a successful process that you implement the largest possible root ball. As a conifer, an Atlas cedar should not be cut when changing location. A sufficient water and nutrient supply helps the transplanted tree to compensate for the lost root volume.

    I intend to keep an eagle's wing yew in a pot on the patio. Can I influence the growth in width by a cut in the future or will the conifers take offense at me?

    Like all yews, the eagle-winged yew easily tolerates pruning. However, the bizarre growth form could be impaired by a topiary. We therefore recommend a regular and skilful pruning instead of simply shortening branches that are too long.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Conifers that are deformed or disfigured with brown patches suffer from a pruning error. It doesn't have to come to that if the gardener is familiar with common mistakes in conifer pruning. The following table lists the three most common pruning errors with damage and tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    cut too low brown spots, large gaps always cut in the needled area
    no education and development section uneven growth, frequent wind and snow breakage, bare hedge base build up gradually with 5 centimeters per year
    placed on the stick total failure Never rejuvenate conifers (except yew).
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    tips

    Cuttings from conifers are generally toxic to humans and animals. Please do not dispose of cut shoots in the compost or on meadows. Thuja, yew and other types of conifers are a deadly threat to grazing cattle and horses. Put the clippings in the dustbin. Larger quantities are accepted free of charge by composting plants and landfills.

Category:

Trees