A wise master of bonsai art once said: "Bonsai is not a species of plant and not an achievable goal, but a never-ending journey". On this journey to the representative mini-tree, the gardener always has scissors and tongs at hand. Proper pruning is a key part of expert bonsai care. This tutorial is made for beginners in Asian garden art. Here you can read everything you need to know about pruning indoor and outdoor bonsai.

Pruning bonsai requires patience and a sure instinct

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. What is a bonsai?
  2. Bonsai Pruning Types
  3. Care and maintenance cut
  4. design cut
  5. leaf cut
  6. root cutting
  7. Bonsai basic forms
  8. Suitable tree species
  9. cutting tool
  10. frequently asked Questions

    11. What is a bonsai? - Overview for beginners

    Translated, the Chinese characters for bonsai are "tree planted in a shallow pot". In Japan, bonsai lovers prefer the short version "tree in pot".

    The art of bonsai design has been celebrated in China and Japan for more than a thousand years. In Europe, the Asian art form is attracting more and more private gardeners. The aim of bonsai art is the realistic, lifelike image of a tree in mini format. In fact, bonsai are not genetically dwarf trees. Rather, almost any tree species can be designed as a bonsai. The range of bonsai sizes is correspondingly large. A uniform classification according to size is not yet available. After all, the following list provides an overview of the wide range of recognized size classifications:

    • Keshitsubo: 3 to 8 cm
    • Shito: 5 to 10 cm
    • Females: 5 to 15 cm
    • Shohin: 13 to 20 cm
    • Komono: 15 to 25 cm
    • Katade-mochi: 25 to 45 cm
    • Chumono/Chiu: 45 to 90 cm
    • Omono/Dai: 91 to 130 cm
    • Hachi-uye: 102 to 152 cm
    • Imperial: 152 to 203 cm

    The sizing information is fluid for a reason. According to traditional classification, a bonsai size is rated according to how many men it takes to carry the tree.

    Cut bonsai correctly - with these types of cuts it is possible

    The wide range of bonsai sizes signals that Asian garden art focuses on diverse aspects that go far beyond height growth. Decisive for an authentic design is one harmonious balance made of shell, roots, trunk, branches and leaves. The perfect bonsai presents itself with a balanced relationship between the plant pot and the circumference of the crown. The narrow shell is primarily aimed at promoting the squat growth of the tree. Proper pruning care makes a valuable contribution to ensuring that the crown is not too voluminous, the trunk is not too powerful and the leaves are not too large. The following table summarizes which types of pruning keep the pot and bonsai in balance:

    cut type aim Appointment garden bonsai Appointment indoor bonsai
    Care and maintenance cut maintain compact growth and shape June to September spring to autumn
    design cut Modeling a basic bonsai shape early spring (February to April) Late fall or early spring
    leaf or needle pruning targeted reduction of reed or needle size June to mid-July June to mid-July
    root cutting Modification of root volume to cup size after each repot after each repot

    For the right time to cut the garden bonsai, please obtain the local ones weather conditions with a. Do not cut an outdoor bonsai in frost, extreme heat or blazing sunlight. Ideally, choose a day with mild temperatures and overcast skies.

    Prune flowering bonsai in time for the flowering period. Spring-blooming species should only be pruned after the flowering period. On the other hand, the scissors are used on summer-flowering trees in late winter or early spring. Evergreen room bonsai make it easy for the gardener to choose the right date, because the mini-trees tolerate light care and maintenance cuts at any time. More far-reaching design cuts, on the other hand, should be scheduled for February or March.

    background

    Understanding how a tree grows paves the way to the perfect bonsai pruning

    The growth law of top promotion teaches the bonsai gardener that trees and shrubs transport all their energy into the buds at the shoot tips. Because these are the fastest places to go up and to the light, deeper-lying buds and shoots are so minimally supplied with nutrients that they die. For bonsai tree design, this process is undesirable and interferes with the design work. Pruning of shoot tips slows down the process of tip promotion and redirects the reserve substances to buds and branches positioned further down and inside the crown. With every cut, keep in mind that you trigger a growth effect that has a significant influence on the design.

    Instructions care and maintenance cut

    Maintain and refine the representative appearance of your bonsai with regular pruning. As explained in our Supporting Information, top growth is naturally dominant in every tree. The main task of the care and maintenance cut is the targeted Removal of top budsto stimulate growth inside the crown. How to proceed professionally:

    • Deciduous trees: Cut off shoots that are protruding and growing towards the inside of the crown
    • Pruning technique: Position bonsai scissors just above an outward-facing bud
    • Conifers: awkwardly positioned branches and coniferous bushes do not cut, but pluck
    • Plucking technique: grasp the tip of the shoot to be shortened between your index finger and thumb and break off
    • Alternatively, use tweezers to remove unwanted shoots and needles

    On coniferous trees such as pine, yew or holly yew, leave only the outer tufts of needles on selected side branches. All superfluous side branches are removed. The care and maintenance cut on conifers is also dedicated to this year's shoot candles, which are also broken out with the fingers. The reason for the special procedure is to avoid brown needle tips after a cut from the bonsai scissors.

    Design pattern instructions - on the way to the perfect shape

    With the design pruning you give your bonsai its own basic shape. As part of the cutting design, large branches sometimes have to be removed at the beginning. No doubt the radical approach is difficult for beginners because of the final decisions to be made about which shoots to cut off and which to keep. The following instructions cannot make this decision for you, but only explain the correct procedure:

    • The best time is in spring, just before the start of the growing season
    • Position the tree at eye level and have the tools (bonsai scissors and concave pliers) ready to hand
    • First remove all dead and dry shoots, including dried leaves
    • Step back a few steps and each further plan cut
    • Of two competing branches, prune the weaker one
    • Remove vertical branches that are twisted into the crown and branches that are unnaturally twisted
    • Cut off all shoots that cross the front of the trunk

    One of the basic rules in the exemplary design cut is the removal of thick branches in the upper crown area. For a natural appearance, the branches at the bottom should have a larger diameter than branches near the top of the tree.

    digression

    Wiring and bending completes the skilful bonsai cut

    Regular pruning alone will not achieve the desired bonsai shape. Combine those incision with artistic Wiring and Bending, your mini-tree gradually takes on the desired shape. Aluminum wire with a thickness of 1 to 8 millimeters is perfect because it is easier to work with than copper wire. To regulate the growth direction of individual branches, use a wire gauge that corresponds to a third of the branch thickness is equivalent to. First, cut off the appropriate length of wire. Wrap the wire twice around the trunk or leader branch at a 45 degree angle and continue along the branch to the branch tip. If there are several wires going out from the trunk or branch to the respective branches, make sure they run neatly and parallel next to each other and not on top of each other. Only when all the branches on the tree have been wired is each individual shoot bent.

    Leaf cutting instructions

    A leaf cut is a special type of cut that aims at a reduced leaf size and increased branching. To do this, cut off all the leaves in the summer. The technique is practiced exclusively on healthy, vital Deciduous trees that tolerate such an exhausting intervention. Alternatively, you can use leaf pruning to slow down growth in selected tree areas. For example, defoliate the upper half of the crown and leave the leaves in the lower part. How to do it right:

    • The best time is from June to mid-July
    • Cut leaves with sharp scissors (all or certain parts of the tree)
    • Important: leave the petiole standing
    • Place the pruned bonsai in partial shade for 4 weeks

    Please only use leaf pruning on a healthy tree suitable for the type of pruning. If in doubt, please ask your trusted bonsai nursery.

    tips

    Your bonsai can only cope with one large pruning per year. Therefore, please do not combine a design or leaf cut with repotting in a new pot. Postpone the change to fresh substrate and the associated root pruning until next year or wait until the tree has recovered.

    Balance between root ball and crown - instructions for root pruning

    An important component of your bonsai is its nebari, meaning root base. In the tightly dimensioned volume of a bonsai pot, the task of optical and actual stabilization is incumbent on the surface roots. Regular pruning of large, vertical roots will shift growth to the lateral root strands. As a result, these roots thicken over the years, forming a natural-looking nebari. How to proceed correctly:

    • The best time to repot is in early spring
    • Pot the bonsai and remove the old substrate
    • Use scissors or root tongs to cut off long roots that point vertically downwards

    The thicker a root, the harder the pruning. thin roots merely prune at that sharpen. In this way you promote the formation of a dense system of fine roots so that your bonsai is sufficiently supplied with nutrients despite the small amount of substrate. Plant the tree in fresh substrate and water. For the next 3 to 4 weeks it can recover from the exertion in a partially shaded location.

    Five basic bonsai shapes for beginners - inspiration for cutting design

    In the course of almost two thousand years of development, a variety of bonsai design forms have emerged that are predestined for entry into Asian garden art. Be inspired by the following five basic shapes:

    Broom Shape Bonsai (Hokidachi)

    Deciduous trees with filigree branching come into their own as broom-shaped bonsai. The straight, upright trunk does not go all the way to the top of the tree, but branches out in all directions to form a rounded crown.

    Strictly upright bonsai form (Chokkan)

    The strictly upright bonsai form is recommended for indoors and outdoors. Ideally, the trunk will grow thicker at its base and taper towards the crown. A single branch serves as the top, because the trunk does not extend over the entire height of the tree.

    Literary bonsai form (Bunjingi)

    The literary bonsai form is considered a reflection of nature. Where trees are in fierce competition with each other, they grow as tall as they can, bearing a small crown only at the top.

    Forest bonsai form (Yose-ue)

    The advantage here is that the relatively young trees give the impression of a primeval forest. The thickest and tallest main tree is in the center background surrounded by smaller trees forming a common canopy. An uneven, moss-covered floor reinforces the natural appearance.

    Rock Shape Over Stone (Seki-joju)

    In the mountains, trees are often forced to send out their roots in search of nutrient-rich soil. The roots run unprotected over rocks until they reach the ground. As a bonsai, the root strands grow over a stone into the substrate. The care does not differ significantly from other basic forms.

    Recommended tree species for indoors or outdoors

    Theoretically, all trees are suitable for bonsai design. With a view to varying levels of pruning tolerance, various tree species have emerged as particularly recommended for bonsai design. Below we present the best deciduous and coniferous trees for beginners in the art of bonsai:

    Fig trees (Ficus)

    A good-natured pruning tolerance has catapulted fig trees to one of the top places in the ranking of recommendable bonsai species. The right ficus for every plant lover can be found among more than 800 species. Evergreen fig trees are native to tropical regions, making them suitable for indoor cultivation. The public's favorite is the birch fig (Ficus benjamina), which grows to 200 to 500 centimeters without pruning. The slightly wavy, shiny green decorative leaves, which naturally grow small, are decorative.

    Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis)

    A slight poison content does not prevent Chinese juniper from establishing itself as a popular garden bonsai. Its most beautiful decoration is the scaly foliage, which shimmers in yellow-green, blue-green or grey-green. The pure species and all varieties derived from it can stay in the garden all year round. As with all conifers, regular care and trimming should focus on the needled area.

    Maple (Acer)

    Bonsai gardeners can draw from a wide range of maple species. The picturesque varieties of Japanese slotted maple (Acer palmatum) are very popular for the stylish interpretation of Asian garden art. The shrubs remain small by nature, inspire with furious leaf colors and spectacular autumn foliage. The trees are completely hardy and adorn the garden and balcony all year round.

    Rhododendron, Azalea (Rhododendron species)

    Would you like a garden bonsai with picturesque flowers? Then the genus Rhododendron comes into focus. Among more than 1000 species, Satsuki azaleas (Rhododendron indicum) and Kurume azaleas (Rhododendron kiusianum) have stood out for cultivation as bonsai. In contrast to their big sisters, bonsai azaleas are well tolerated by pruning. It is important to note a pruning date after the flowering period so that the flower buds that have been created do not fall victim to the scissors.

    pine (pinus)

    Many gardeners consider Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), mountain pine (Pinus mugo) and white pine (Pinus parviflora) to be typical bonsai trees. The evergreen conifers show off their bizarre growth that other trees have to laboriously acquire by cutting, wiring and bending. A pronounced frost hardiness recommends pines for the design of the majestic XXL garden bonsai in tier form.

    This is a small excerpt from a colorful series of magnificent ornamental trees that can be trained and designed as bonsai. When making your selection, act according to the principle that a tree is one of the suitable candidates if it naturally withstands pruning well. Origin and frost sensitivity indicate whether your favorite is an indoor or outdoor bonsai. Tropical tree species generally have not learned to survive in freezing temperatures. Native, Asian and some Mediterranean trees can withstand temperatures down to -20 degrees Celsius, so they can show off their shapely shape in the garden and on the balcony all year round.

    Tips for the right cutting tool

    The right equipment is important for the successful pruning of bonsai trees. Pruning tools must enable the gardener to make precise cuts on the saplings leaving smooth wound edges. Japanese bonsai tools are the ultimate, but of course they come at a price. Scissors and saws are mostly out black steel manufactured, which is difficult to maintain. The material makes up for this shortcoming with unsurpassed sharpness and durability. Stainless steel is less maintenance-intensive, but has a higher acquisition cost and is more difficult to sharpen than black steel. Ultimately, the specific bonsai species and the financial budget decide on the scope of the tool equipment. We have compiled the following tips for the recommended basic equipment for you below:

    scissors

    Bonsai shears come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The main task is to cut twigs, thin branches, leaves and roots. You can skilfully prune the small indoor bonsai with pointed, sharp scissors. Thanks to the pointed cutting edges, you can even make demanding cuts. You can also cut short, thin shoots and narrow branches smoothly. Beginners can effortlessly manage the pruning of the mighty garden bonsai with the usual one-handed pruning shears. We recommend scissors with a bypass mechanism, because here two sharp blades run against each other.

    concave pliers

    If the plan is to cut stronger branches on the bonsai, concave pliers should be at hand. The tool leaves semicircular cuts on branches that heal faster than straight cuts. A special variant are small and large bud tongs, which are advantageous for the pruning care of blooming bonsai trees and complete an extra deep cut.

    tips

    Cutting garden bonsai with electric shrub or hedge shears is taboo. Manual scissors offer you optimal control when cutting and effectively prevent fatal mistakes.

    Root forceps and root claw

    When repotting a bonsai, small and large root strands usually need to be pruned. A special root forceps can also take on thick taproots. Sharp bonsai scissors are sufficient for thin roots or fine roots. So that dried or inorganic substrate components do not damage root tongs or bonsai scissors, the root claw removes such remains before cutting.

    folding saw

    If scissors and pliers are overwhelmed with cutting thick branches, a folding saw (€17.70) takes care of the challenge. Folding saws have the advantage that they work under tension and cut even thick branches with little effort. In addition, you can maneuver better with the folding handsaws than with a space-consuming hacksaw.

    In addition to cutting tools, the basic equipment should contain other components. These include a watering can and ball shower for watering as well as a small hand shovel for filling substrate into the bonsai pot. Tools for cutting and bending wire are not part of the basic equipment. Numerous shrubs take on an attractive bonsai shape without wiring the shoots.

    frequently asked Questions

    Are there succulents that are suitable as beginner bonsai?

    Money trees (Crassula ovata) and jade trees (Portulacaria afra) thrive as woody, evergreen succulents and are extremely tolerant of pruning. The popular houseplants are predestined to pave the way for a beginner in the art of Asian bonsai. In the sunny, warm location, regular shape and design cuts cover the requirements. Cumbersome wiring and bending is not essential to give a money tree or jade tree a decorative silhouette.

    I was given a bonsai birch that was already wired. Now I'm not sure if I should remove the wire. What to do?

    Check carefully whether the wire is already cutting into the bark. If this is the case, please do not try to unwind the bonsai wire. You could irreversibly damage the tree. Instead, cut the wire at each turn so you can remove it piece by piece.

    My indoor bonsai sheds all the leaves. It is an evergreen birch fig about 5 years old. What causes leaf shedding?

    Many indoor gardeners struggle with leaf shedding on evergreen bonsai trees. The main cause is waterlogging in the shell. Inferior substrate and too frequent watering cause the tree roots to become permanently wet. Root rot spreads, after which the stressed tree sheds its leaves. Repot your bonsai in good quality, well-drained soil. In the future, only water when the soil has dried noticeably.

    Should I move my outdoor bonsai indoors during the winter?

    One of the most common misconceptions in bonsai care is that the plants should be kept indoors. In fact, indoor bonsai should also experience the seasons from spring to autumn outdoors. Hardy bonsai species belong outside all year round. Trees die off within a short period of time in cosy, warm heated living spaces. The only concession to the cold season is a protective cover for the bonsai pot so that the root ball does not freeze through. Planted, native garden bonsai, on the other hand, can do without any protective measures.

    youtube

    tips

    The oldest bonsai in the world is a ficus. The gem is an impressive 1000 years old and can be admired in the Crespi Bonsai Museum in Italy. The pine bonsai in the Japanese Mansei-en garden has an equally biblical age. The pine was collected from the wild and is still referred to as raw material because the design is not finished. The 400-year-old white pine of the Yamaki family exudes a magical charisma. This bonsai survived the atomic bombing of Hiroshima and is now in the National Bonsai Penjing Museum in Washington.

Category:

Care tips