- Fruit wood makes the difference
- Types of cuts and dates
- Planting and training pruning
- Complete maintenance pruning in spring
- Pruning acts as a crop protection
- Rejuvenate stale blackcurrants
- Success concept derivation cut
- Topiary standard
- frequently asked Questions
Blackcurrants are cut differently than their red counterparts or other berry bushes. This tutorial explains in detail and comprehensibly when and how to properly blend Ribes nigrum. Read the instructions for all major types of cuts here.

Table of Contents
Show all- fruit wood
- Types of cuts and dates
- Planting and training pruning
- maintenance cut
- taper cut
- Topiary standard
- frequently asked Questions
- In the 2nd and 3rd year set up a framework with a maximum of 12 ground shoots of different ages
- Every spring on selected scaffolding shoots previous year's increase cut back by a third
- Cut just above an outward eye or a light brown side shoot
- Cut off excess shoots at the base
- Cut back long shoots that have been picked to 2 cm short cones
- Saw off a third of the old, dark brown main branches at ground level
- In exchange, leave young, light-brown shoots uncut
- Remove excess, weak bottom shoots
- Cut back the remaining main branches up to the 2nd or 3rd long shoot
- Cut short shoots along trellis shoots on astring
- The best time is at the end of the winter season, at the latest at the beginning of March
- Dark brown scaffolding knots without light brown side shoots thin out at ground level
- Dark brown scaffolding knots with light brown side shoots derive at the fork
- Leave young bottom shoots as a starting point for a new growth
- Advantageous crown shape: Central shoot with up to 6 symmetrically arranged leaders
- Best pruning time: after the harvest or in February/March
- Cut back worn fruit canes to short cones
- Remove weak, crossing branches that grow inwards or steeply upwards
Fruit wood makes the difference
Among currants, black currants have a special position when it comes to cutting care. The juiciest berries thrive annual long shoots. Among the diverse types of shoots you can identify the valuable fruit wood at a length of more than 20 centimeters. Furthermore, a light brown color the youthful age. Over the years, the bark color changes to dark brown and indicates exhausted wood.
Types of cuts and dates
Pruning blackcurrants for planting and training purposes will give you great pleasure from the berry bushes with legions of juicy, black vitamin C bombs. An annual maintenance cut ensures fresh supplies of annual fruit canes. The rejuvenation pruning gives an overgrown currant new courage. The following table summarizes useful types of cuts and dates:
cut type | goal/occasion | best appointment | alternative date |
---|---|---|---|
Planting and training pruning | richly branched structure | 1st to 3rd year in February or March | none |
maintenance cut | high-yield growth, promote fruit wood | from the 4th year in February or March | after harvest |
taper cut | revitalize old berry bush | Late winter to early March | none |
Topiary standard | well-formed crown with maximum yield | early spring | after harvest |
Planting and training pruning
On the autumn planting day, a light pruning concentrates on damaged shoot tips and root strands. Extensive pruning measures on a young black currant so shortly before winter are not advisable because frost damage is to be feared. Only in the following spring cut back all shoots by a third or half. A vigorous branching then sets in. With a scaffolding Central shoot and four side shoots is the berry bush in first year well positioned. This is how the perfect parenting cut succeeds:
The available space capacity determines the correct number of bottom shoots as scaffolding. The recommended pruning of the plant below causes a sap accumulation on lower-lying buds, which then sprout cheerfully. By cutting back the main branches again in the second and third year, you strengthen the growth power for vital, one-year long shoots as the most valuable fruit wood on black currants.

In spring after autumn planting, cut back all shoots by a third or half. This activates a vigorous branching. Corresponding to the space capacity, train a blackcurrant with up to 12 vital shoots.
Complete maintenance pruning in spring
With blackcurrants, the transition from training to maintenance pruning is fluid. Under ideal conditions, the berry bush will give you the first flowers and fruits from the second year of growth. With this pruning care you support the growth of productive long shoots and preserve a young framework structure:
A black currant with a few lower shoots that are exposed to light all around provides a better yield than a shrub with numerous main branches that shade each other. You have done the perfect maintenance pruning when the shrub finally presents itself with up to 12 light-washed skeletal branches, which only carry annual long shoots in the outer area.

The maintenance cut clears the way for one-year long shoots. Cut back a main branch to the second or third side shoot. Completely remove the three oldest skeleton branches in exchange for three promising young bottom shoots.
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Pruning acts as a crop protection
Fungal pathogens have blackcurrants in their sights. With a cut at the right time you prevent the spread of diseases in the berry bush. The focus is on currant columnar rust and powdery mildew. A brown coating on the underside of the leaf or a mealy coating on the upper side of the leaf are symptoms of an infection. cut promptly all affected rods out. Never dispose of the clippings in the compost, but put them in the garbage can. Then clean the scissors meticulously with hot water and disinfect the cutting edges with spirit or alcohol.Rejuvenate stale blackcurrants
If you have lost sight of black currants, the berry bushes quickly degenerate into an impenetrable thicket with few flowers and fruits. A radical rejuvenation cut creates a remedy. How to do it:
Ideally, an old blackcurrant has both young bottom shoots and skeletal branches with light brown side shoots. If both components are missing, a rejuvenation cut has no chance of success. In this case, it is advisable to clear the exhausted berry bush.

Cut down to ground level up to three quarters of the spent trellis shoots with dark brown wood. Shorten scaffolding shoots with promising, light brown side shoots by means of a derivation cut. Raise the best young ground shoots as a new framework.
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Success concept derivation cut
In black currants, the aging process progresses rapidly. If the gardener is well versed in the pruning technique of a derivation, a berry bush will remain young, vital and productive for many years. To determine the correct cutting point, examine the relevant main branch for young, light brown side shoots. Select the second or third side shoot that grows outward. At the fork in the old and young wood, cut off the used scaffolding shoots. To avoid damaging the fresh fruit wood, position the scissors 1 to 2 millimeters in the dark brown old wood.Topiary standard
Blackcurrants grafted into standard stems are big sellers in tree nurseries and garden centers. Space-saving growth, uncomplicated pruning and aromatic berries make the hearts of hobby gardeners beat faster. An annual topiary keeps the tall currant tree in a blooming mood. How to cut correctly:
Cutting work is a good opportunity to check the support pole. Currant tall stems are at risk of breaking at the grafting point. To ensure that the crown does not buckle under the weight of the berries, a solid wooden post ensures stability over the entire growth height. The central shoot of the crown should be tied at least once. The trunk and support should be connected in two places.
frequently asked Questions
Are blackcurrants self-fertile?
The most popular varieties thrive as self-pollinating berry bushes. However, it is advisable to plant at least two blackcurrant varieties to improve crop yield and fruit quality. It is important to ensure that there is sufficient planting distance of at least 100 centimeters so that the shrubs can develop unhindered and do not shade each other.
Does a black currant have to be cut as a standard? If so, when and how much?
Black currants bear the best fruit wood on their one-year long shoots. Therefore, the berry bushes will age within a short time if they are not cut regularly. This also applies to high-yield cultivation as a standard. Cut out worn wood to make room for young fruiting wood. The best time for maintenance pruning is in early spring.
Should the black currant be pruned after autumn planting?
A slight pruning on the day of planting is recommended to stimulate the branching of the young shoots. Please limit pruning to the shoot tips and damaged root strands. Cutting too deep into the wood increases the risk of frost damage. You only complete the actual pruning at the beginning of March. Cut back all shoots by a third or half. This allows the black currant to branch out beautifully and form numerous fruit canes.
Two long, thin shoots sprout from the stem of my black currant. How should I deal with this?
High stems are a combination of a robust base and a refined crown. Sometimes the rootstock tends to sprout of its own. These branches strive to overgrow the canopy and compete for nutrients, water and light. Therefore, remove the wild shoots as quickly as possible.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
A wrong pruning time or an improper pruning can significantly affect the enjoyment of blackcurrants. In order to protect you from devastating results, the following table lists the three most common editing errors and gives tips on how to avoid them:
cutting error | damage picture | prevention |
---|---|---|
cut in the fall | massive frost damage to the fruit wood | cut in spring or after harvest |
never cut | scrubby growth, low crop yield | cut once a year |
overaged shoots not thinned out | premature senescence, little young fruit wood | from the 4th year replace three old shoots with three young ones |
tips
Jostaberries are a successful cross between black currant and gooseberry with extra large berries. Josta shrubs are extremely vigorous. In order to slow down excessive growth, pruning in summer is recommended. The incision does not differ from black currant. In addition, at the end of June, shorten this year's rods by half.