The mimosa, which originates from tropical South America, is rarely cultivated as a houseplant in this country, even if it has its nickname - "shy plant" - not without reason and has therefore even made its plant name synonymous with "sensitive". The pretty plant is easy to care for in the summer, but difficult to overwinter.

Making the mimosa happy as a houseplant is not easy

Table of Contents

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  1. origin and distribution
  2. characteristics
  3. use
  4. appearance and growth
  5. leaves
  6. flowers and flowering time
  7. fruit
  8. toxicity
  9. Which location is suitable?
  10. substrate
  11. Prefer
  12. plant and repot
  13. pour mimosa
  14. Fertilize mimosa properly
  15. Cut mimosa properly
  16. multiply mimosa
  17. hibernate
  18. diseases and pests
  19. species and varieties

    20. origin and distribution

    With the term "mimosa", the gardener usually means the Mimosa pudica, which is the only one of the approximately 500 species of the mimosa family (Mimosoideae) that is cultivated as a houseplant. The pretty plant is native to the tropical and subtropical regions of South America but has spread invasively to other parts of the world. For example, mimosas are often found in southern European countries. The genus belongs to the Leguminosae family (butterfly bloomers or legumes).

    characteristics

    Mimosas are famous for their peculiar reaction to touch, which is why sensitive people are still called "mimosas" to this day. The delicate pinnate leaves of the plant fold up within a few seconds at the slightest stimulus, with even the petiole lowering. Occasionally, the plant will go through a chain reaction of sorts, with multiple leaves and shoots reacting in this way. After about half an hour, the leaves unfold again.

    Interestingly, mimosas only react to touch by a foreign object, a human finger or even heat in the manner described, but not to drafts, wind or movements of their own stems and leaves. Of course, it is especially fun for children to play with the "spooky" plant in this way, to touch it or even hold a lit match under the leaves and then observe the reaction. However, since this costs the mimosa a lot of strength, you should not carry out the touch test too often. After a while, every plant suffers massively from the strain, and some varieties do not react as quickly and only recover slowly.

    use

    The mimosa is not hardy and is therefore only used as a houseplant. The so-called gardener's mimosa or false mimosa, on the other hand, is the silver acacia (Acacia dealbata), which is a frost-sensitive deciduous tree from Australia. Both types belong to the legumes and are therefore related to each other.

    appearance and growth

    Mimosa pudica, which is kept indoors, is a small, woody subshrub that grows about 30 to 50 centimeters high. Typically, the herbaceous plant develops a bare, sometimes bristly stem that is more or less branched and occasionally has spines. The already early sparse growth and the difficult overwintering ensure that the actually perennial plant is mostly cultivated as an annual.

    leaves

    The mimosa gets its attractiveness mainly from its long-stalked and doubly feathered leaves, each of which has between ten and 26 leaflets. These in turn are sessile, elongated and pointed to rounded. The stipules that are about seven to eight millimeters long also grow on the plant. Typically, all leaves and leaflets are slightly bristly. The characteristic movements of the leaves, which the botanist calls nastia, are caused by various stimuli and these are the protection of the plant. The mimosa reacts to vibrations and changes in ambient temperature, but also to changes in light intensity. For example, leaf movements are usually no longer present at temperatures below 18 °C and at night, especially since the mimosa goes into the so-called "sleeping position" in the dark.

    flowers and flowering time

    Between July and October, the mimosa continuously forms spherical, pink to purple-colored flower heads that remind the viewer of dandelions. The pretty little flowers are always at the end of the branches and have faded after a maximum of two days. However, the plant constantly forms new flowers.

    fruit

    After flowering, legumes are formed that are up to two centimeters long and five centimeters wide, flat and articulated. These are light green when ripe and also have a bristly and prickly surface to protect them from predators. The fruits contain the flat, hard and brown seeds, which are only three to four millimeters in size. Mimosa can only be propagated via these seeds.

    toxicity

    The mimosa is not directly classified as a poisonous plant because it contains few toxins. Nevertheless, you should place the houseplant in a location where curious children and pets cannot access it unsupervised. Although the slightly toxic ingredients do not cause any damage to health, they can still lead to discomfort and nausea.

    Which location is suitable?

    The mimosa feels most comfortable in a bright spot without direct sunlight. Temperatures between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius are also optimal. During the summer months you can also place the plant outdoors in a sheltered spot, but not in full sun. Whether inside or outside: the space must be draft-free, the temperature constant and little affected by through traffic, for example because someone is constantly walking there. Such a location prevents the leaves from constantly collapsing from the outset and thus protects the plant's energy reserves. However, the mimosa is not suitable for a culture in a shady place.
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    substrate

    Since mimosas are usually only cultivated once a year, a so-called standard soil is usually sufficient. Nevertheless, pay attention to quality: compost-based potting or plant soil is not only healthier for the environment than a cheap, peat-based substrate (after all, said peat does not have to be broken down, destroying valuable habitats), but also ensures a better water balance in the Pot. Peat hardens quickly and is then no longer able to absorb water. Compost, on the other hand, is both a good water reservoir and permeable enough to allow excess irrigation water to flow through.

    Prefer

    From March you can prefer the pretty mimosas yourself. You can get the seeds you need either in stores or by harvesting them yourself last year. However, in order for some of the mimosa flowers to produce fruit, you have to put the plant outside over the summer months. Only here can insects looking for food carry out the necessary pollination. Then do not pinch off the withered shoots, but leave them where they are. The small legumes, which you finally pick, form here until autumn. Get the inside seeds out and keep them dry, cool and tightly sealed over the winter.

    If the hard-shelled seeds are finally to be sown, first let them soak in a warm place for at least twelve hours. Meanwhile, fill a shallow growing tray or small pots with a low-nutrient growing medium or coco, having previously sterilized the medium in the microwave or oven. This is important, otherwise the sensitive seeds will become moldy. Put the seeds out and do not cover them with soil, because mimosas germinate in the light. Keep the substrate slightly moist and cover the cultivation vessels with a translucent cover, such as cling film or a PET bottle from which you have cut off the top part with the bottleneck.

    The pots should be warm at temperatures between 20 and 25 °C and bright, avoiding direct sunlight. Ventilate daily to prevent mold from forming under the cover. Once the seedlings have developed three to four pairs of leaves, transplant them into individual pots. It is particularly important when cultivating in Kokohum to start fertilizing early.

    plant and repot

    You don't have to repot mimosas that have been cultivated for one year, unless you put the young seedlings in a flower pot with real potting soil for the first time. You should also transplant newly purchased plants straight away, as the pots are often too small and/or the substrate is damp or already exhausted. Otherwise, only perennial specimens need fresh soil and a new planter from time to time. Ideally, repot in the spring.

    It is high time to repot when the roots of the mimosa grow out of the pot and/or the root ball completely fills the planter. The roots of the plant need space to grow, but don't oversize the pot. In a smaller pot, the plant looks more decorative and often blooms more profusely. Much more important is the large drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, through which excess water can drain. In this way you prevent waterlogging from the outset.
    How to plant the mimosa:

    • Carefully lift the plant out of the old planter.
    • Gently shake off the clinging soil.
    • Check the roots.
    • Cut away rotten and diseased looking roots.
    • Fill a fresh pot with a drainage layer and some substrate.
    • Expanded clay (€19.73) or some shards of pottery are suitable for drainage.
    • Place the mimosa in the pot and fill in the soil all around.
    • Gently press down the substrate.
    • Pour the mimosa.

    If you have used pre-fertilized standard soil, you do not need to fertilize the mimosa for the first four to six weeks. However, place the plant in a warm and bright spot without direct sunlight.

    Don't be surprised if the mimosa looks a bit torn after repotting. This process always means stress for the plant, which is why it then looks a bit battered. However, with good care and plenty of rest, they usually recover quickly.

    pour mimosa

    There are exactly two things that mimosas dislike at all in terms of watering: damp and dry. The sensitive plants tolerate neither waterlogging nor dry root balls, which is why you should always keep the substrate evenly moist with great care. Always do a finger test before watering again and only water the mimosa when the surface of the substrate has already dried. Excess water that has run into the saucer or planter must be removed immediately to avoid waterlogging.

    The mimosa is not very tolerant of lime and should therefore be watered with soft water - preferably rainwater, alternatively well stale tap water. The right humidity is even more important: Tropical plants need high humidity, which is best achieved by setting up water bowls. Incidentally, low humidity in the ambient air is fatal to the plants, especially in winter, especially since there is a risk of infestation with spider mites in the event of drought.
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    Fertilize mimosa properly

    After repotting in spring, you do not need to fertilize the mimosa immediately. Only older plants are happy about occasional fertilization, although they only have a low nutrient requirement and therefore need little fertilization. It is sufficient to supply the plants with a liquid green plant fertilizer about once a month, which you administer together with the irrigation water and only mix with half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.

    Cut mimosa properly

    Since mimosa does not tolerate pruning well, you should avoid pruning the plant. She often reacts offended afterwards and then no longer expels. Incidentally, this is also one of the reasons why mimosas are usually only kept once a year: older plants in particular grow quite sparsely, which does not always look attractive. At the same time, they cannot be shaped with scissors.
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    multiply mimosa

    It is better to sow the mimosa again every year. Incidentally, sowing is also the only way to propagate this interesting houseplant. In principle, propagation by cuttings is possible, but there are various problems: On the one hand, the mother plant does not tolerate pruning well and then dies with a little bad luck. Secondly, the cut shoots take root very poorly and then have to survive the winter. If you still want to try, the following tips will give you the best cards:

    • Only cut cuttings before flowering in spring or early summer.
    • There may still be a flower or only flower buds to be seen.
    • After flowering begins, the rooting rate drops drastically again.
    • This also applies when you remove flowers and buds from the cuttings.
    • Pluck off the bottom leaves.
    • Place the sprouts in a glass of water.
    • Place it in a warm and bright place.
    • This should be quiet and free from drafts.

    Plant the cutting as soon as the first roots appear. If you wait too long, the little plant will die quickly - it is usually too wet for it. To improve root development, you can dip them in a rooting substrate before planting.
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    hibernate

    Since mimosas no longer look very pretty with age and caring for them in winter is also quite tricky, you should refrain from overwintering them. It is better to grow new plants from the seeds in spring. If you still want to try it, you should keep the plants bright but relatively cool at around 18 to 20 °C - the window sill in the living room with the heating underneath is an unsuitable location, especially since the heating air draws off the necessary high humidity. Water the plant sparingly during the winter months, but keep the humidity high. Stop fertilizing completely until next spring.

    Incidentally, the plants often shed their leaves in winter because it is simply too dark for them. You can counteract this phenomenon with lamps or special plant lighting.
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    diseases and pests

    Although most people instinctively suspect otherwise, when it comes to disease and possible pest infestation, mimosa is amazingly resilient. They rarely get sick or are attacked by pests. However, if the plant does not really want to thrive or does not develop flowers, the cause is usually care errors or an unsuitable location. Most often, shoot and root rot occurs as a result of overwatering. This disease is manifested by yellow leaves. Overwatered plants usually die, but sometimes you can save them by quickly repotting them in dry soil.

    If the ambient air is too dry, spider mites (also: red spider) often attack the mimosa. You can recognize the infestation by the fine webs, which often only become visible when sprayed with water mist. Here, too, the tiny spider mite, which is hardly visible to the naked eye, is initially indicated by a yellowing of the leaves. If you carefully shower infested plants and increase the humidity, then the pests will often go away on their own. In the case of a stubborn infestation, commercially available agents that you simply stick into the substrate will help.

    Mimosa is losing its leaves, what to do?

    When mimosas shed their leaves, there are various reasons behind it. It may be that your plant is too dark or too light, too warm or too cold or simply too draughty. Furthermore, incorrect watering can result in leaf loss because the plant is permanently too moist or too dry. All of these causes are out of the question: Even touching the leaves too often will eventually lead to them being dropped, because the mimosa cannot compensate for this effort in the long run. In general, the leaves of the houseplant are very sensitive: the mimosa does not tolerate poor air quality either. For example, it quickly dies in smokers' rooms.Create suitable site conditions for the mimosa, water it according to the instructions described above, do not touch it so often and do not smoke in its presence - then nothing should stand in the way of a healthy, beautifully leafed and flowering plant.

    tips

    Even if mimosas occasionally look like small bonsai due to their sometimes peculiar growth, they are not suitable for bonsai culture. They cannot be forced into a desired growth form and are also difficult to overwinter.

    species and varieties

    Of the approximately 500 different species of the mimosa family, only the species Mimosa pudica is cultivated as a houseplant. However, adult plants are rarely commercially available, which is due to the sensitivity of the "Don't Touch Me" - the slightest shock and differences in temperature and light lead to the leaves collapsing and weakening the plant. As a rule, you have to grow Mimosa pudica yourself from seeds that you can get in garden shops. There is no differentiation between different types.

Category:

Indoor plants