For decades it has been THE classic ornamental plant in the pre-Christmas decorated room: the poinsettia. Its star-shaped inflorescence overshadows many other houseplants during the winter months. In order for it to be preserved for as long as possible, however, there are a few things to keep in mind.

The poinsettia forms its red bracts at Christmas time

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossom
  5. heyday
  6. Which location is suitable?
  7. What soil does the plant need?
  8. repot
  9. Watering the poinsettia
  10. Fertilize poinsettias properly
  11. Cut the poinsettia correctly
  12. bonsai
  13. frost
  14. hibernate
  15. balcony
  16. plant out
  17. multiply poinsettia
  18. cuttings
  19. offshoot
  20. Diseases
  21. pests
  22. Is poinsettia poisonous?
  23. tip
  24. sorts

    25. origin

    The poinsettia, botanically Euphorbia pulcherrima, also known as poinsettia (after a US ambassador to Mexico), Christ or Advent star, is a plant from the spurge family. The botanist Carl Ludwig Willdenow gave it its Latin name, which distinguishes it as the 'most beautiful spurge plant'. The poinsettia made its way to Europe in the luggage of the famous Alexander von Humboldt when he returned from his trip to America in 1804.

    So the star of Christ comes from the American continent. Its distribution area is mainly the tropical and subtropical middle and southern part: Its original habitats are mainly in Mexico, on the Caribbean islands, in Venezuela and Brazil to Argentina. The climatic conditions to which it is adapted are not easy to reproduce in our room - but in the 1950s breeders succeeded in largely adapting the requirements of the poinsettia to our local living space climate.

    Nevertheless, the poinsettia is still a little sensitive to the air environment.

    Origin at a glance:

    • Poinsettia comes from tropical to subtropical regions of Central and South America
    • Introduced in Europe by Alexander von Humboldt
    • Actually somewhat unfavorable conditions for the local room culture
    • Adapted to the climate of indoor living spaces by breeding
    • Still quite sensitive

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    growth

    With us, poinsettias are mainly cultivated as annual pot plants, if only because of their strong seasonality. Euphorbia pulcherrima is actually a perennial, evergreen shrub that, in its homeland, reaches an impressive height, as laypeople might not expect. The spurge plant can actually grow up to 6 meters and shows an almost tree-like habit with a broad, spreading crown due to its woody trunk.

    Originally, the poinsettia branched only moderately - the significantly more densely branched, compact and room-appropriate growth of only up to 60 cm high in potted plants available in this country is achieved by chemical inhibitors. In specialist shops, however, there are also specimens that have been grown into high stems.

    Growth characteristics in keywords:

    • Natural growth form: perennial, evergreen shrub
    • Tree-like habit due to woody trunk
    • Up to 6 m tall in its homeland with a spreading, moderately branched crown
    • Local pot plants grown with retardants to small, compact habit
    • Then only about 60 cm high
    • Also available as a standard

    leaves

    All the leaves of the poinsettia have the typical ovate to lanceolate shape, which tapers to a point at the front. The inflorescence, with its rosette-shaped arrangement, is associated with a star. However, what we perceive as star formations is actually part of the foliage of the poinsettia - because these are colored bracts, so-called bracts, which serve to attract pollinating insects. The bracts are naturally red, but among the cultivated forms available here there are also variants in other colours. Sometimes the bracts are also sprayed with paint (sometimes glittering for Christmas).

    The leaves in the lower part of the plant are arranged alternately and sit on 2 to 8 cm long stalks. Its surface is dark green in color, the underside is a little lighter.

    Sheet properties in brief:

    • Elongated, ovoid shape with a pointed end
    • Rosette-shaped, colored bracts around the flowers create a star-like inflorescence
    • Bracts usually red, but other color varieties also available
    • Leaves dark green

    blossom

    What is often mistaken for the flower is only for show. The unisexual flowers located within the bract rosettes are, as is so often the case with bract inflorescences, rather inconspicuous: They consist of thick, lip-shaped nectar glands and, depending on the sex, an ovary and a style or a single stamen. The nectar glands are arranged singly or in pairs. Overall, the flowers appear leafy greenish to yellowish in color

    Flower characteristics in brief:

    • The actual flowers are rather inconspicuous within the magnificent rosette of bracts
    • Greenish to yellowish colour
    • Unisexual with nodular nectar glands and a single ovary, style or stamen

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    heyday

    The poinsettia does not have its name by chance. Not only does the red star shape of its inflorescences, which looks like Christmas, fit wonderfully into our Advent culture, but of course it also blooms during the Christmas season. It is generally scheduled from October to January. However, how well the flowers last depends very much on the environmental conditions, both those in the shop and those at home: if the plant has already been treated in a manner appropriate to the species in the sales room and if the flowers were still unopened at the time of purchase, you can use a much longer one Calculate flowering time.

    At home you should also keep the poinsettia at just under 20°C if possible, the flowers will die faster if the air is warmer, but also colder and drafty.

    To remember:

    • Flowering time generally between October and January
    • Buds are more stable if they have been treated humanely in the store and the buds have not yet opened
    • At home, a constant temperature of just under 20°C is conducive to long flowering

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    Which location is suitable?

    Like so many houseplants native to tropical areas, the poinsettia likes it bright but protected from direct sunlight. A bright window seat or a location in the conservatory, slightly shaded by neighboring plants or an awning, is ideal. Poinsettias are quite sensitive to drafts.

    The ambient temperature should generally be between 18 and 20°C. In winter it is important to adhere to this temperature window as closely as possible if you value long-lasting flowering. In summer you can also put a poinsettia outside, of course also protected from direct sun.

    Site conditions at a glance:

    • Bright but protected from direct sun
    • As little draft as possible
    • Ambient temperature between 18 and 20°C
    • Can also be taken outside in summer

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    What soil does the plant need?

    The substrate for a poinsettia should not be too dense and rich in humus, as its roots are very sensitive to waterlogging. Its nutritional requirements are also limited. You can either place it in a universal potting soil loosened up with clay granules or, even better, in cactus soil.
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    repot

    Especially if you buy a poinsettia in shops that are not very specialized, you should immediately transplant it into your own soil mixture, as the substrates are often very inferior. It is best to do this immediately after purchase or at the latest after the first flowering.

    Otherwise, it is advisable to place a poinsettia in a new pot every spring. But make sure that the pot is not too big. By limiting the space in the root ball, you encourage the plant to produce fewer leaves in favor of more lush flowering. You can also just swap out the soil and use the same pot
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    Watering the poinsettia

    When it comes to watering, the poinsettia demands your full attention. It reacts very sensitively to both waterlogging and drought, and this is quickly indicated by wilting shoots. However, waterlogging is the greater evil - so water sparingly rather than too much. A weekly immersion bath and subsequent drying is recommended. Of course, good humidity is also good for the tropical plant.

    In order to induce lush flowering in the next flowering season, it is advisable not to water the poinsettia for about 4 weeks in early spring after the last flowering and then a little more abundantly.

    To remember:

    • Waterlogging is essential, but also avoid prolonged drought
    • Inexpensive: weekly immersion, then allow to dry
    • High humidity
    • For beautiful flowering in the coming season: keep dry for 4 weeks in early spring, then water more

    Fertilize poinsettias properly

    To keep your poinsettia in good shape, you can feed it with a universal fertilizer every week during the sunny half of the year. During the winter flowering period, reduce fertilizer application to once every 2 weeks. You can also use fertilizer sticks (4.48€). In the first year after purchase, however, you should still refrain from the additional nutrient supply.
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    Cut the poinsettia correctly

    If you don't want your poinsettia in your room for just one season, you should cut it back vigorously in winter after it has faded to ensure that it blooms beautifully every year. In this way you can bring it through the summer, gathering strength, and you can expect beautiful, star-shaped bracts again at Christmas time. To do this, cut out all the wilted, too long and withered shoots. Use sharp scissors so as not to crush non-lignified shoots. You should also wear gloves because of the skin-irritating milky sap of the plant.
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    bonsai

    The artistic formation of a poinsettia is possible, but only to a limited extent. On the one hand, you need a specimen that is several years old and sufficiently woody underneath. On the other hand, a poinsettia can only be kept small and compact by cutting, shape designs are not really possible. Wiring is also taboo for its sensitive shoots. Do the pruning after flowering. Additionally, you can limit its growth by carefully pruning the roots.
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    frost

    Of course, tropical poinsettias are not frost hardy. In general, you should protect them from temperatures below 10°C. As soon as this limit is reached outdoors, you must bring a poinsettia that has been cultivated outside over the summer indoors at the latest.
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    hibernate

    With the poinsettia, given its flowering period in winter, it is more likely to oversummer than overwinter when it comes to perennial rather than seasonal cultivation. In order to get a poinsettia to bloom every year at Advent, you should start with a pruning and a 4-week draining in the spring. Then water it more and continue to care for it with weekly fertilizer and a bright, around 20°C warm location (also outside).
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    balcony

    If you have a sheltered, light-filled balcony, you can also place your poinsettia there over the summer months. Make sure, however, that it is not exposed to direct sunlight or strong winds.
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    plant out

    In principle, it is possible to plant a poinsettia in summer. Of course, the same location requirements apply here as for pot culture: lots of light without direct sunlight, a permeable substrate and careful watering care. At the latest when the temperatures drop below 10°C in autumn, the poinsettia has to be dug up and put back in a pot in order to be able to bring it into the house.
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    multiply poinsettia

    The best way to propagate a poinsettia is to use the cuttings method. It is best to use cut shoots that occur during the annual pruning in early spring. Because spring is the best time for growth anyway, when the available light increases.

    The cuttings should be about 7 to 10 cm long. Wait for the leaking milky juice to drain or quench the flow by briefly immersing the interface in water. Then put the cutting in a planter with sandy potting soil and place it in a bright place with a temperature of at least 22 °C. You can pull the cuttings under foil to create an evenly moist, warm microclimate. A mini greenhouse is of course even better.
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    cuttings

    See section 'Propagating'.
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    offshoot

    See section 'Propagating'.
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    Diseases

    Waterlogging is and remains a tricky thing with the poinsettia. It can not only lead to root rot, but also to the so-called gray mold. You can recognize this fungus by the stems, leaves and flowers that are rotting, turning brown and then covered with a greyish coating. Cut out all diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible and put the poinsettia in a dry place for a while. If the infestation is severe, you can also use a fungicide.
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    pests

    Like all indoor plants that like high humidity, heating air that is too dry can also attract the well-known spider mites or mealybugs in the poinsettia.

    spider mites

    You can easily recognize these parasites by the fine webs that they stretch around the leaf axils. The best way to deal with spider mites is to use water: first rinse them off the plant mechanically with a slightly stronger jet of water and then wrap them in foil, which you tie together at the bottom. In this arid, humid climate, the mites die within a week.

    Mealybug

    Mealybugs also reveal themselves through a species-specific secretion, which appears in the form of woolly balls on the leaves. You should also first decimate the parasites mechanically by gently wiping the leaves with a wet cloth. Then apply a spray treatment from a water-alcohol-curd soap mixture (ratio 1l - 15ml - 15ml).

    Is poinsettia poisonous?

    As a spurge family, the poinsettia, like all other members of the plant family, also contains a milky sap in the stems and leaves that is slightly irritating to the skin. Skin contact with the juice is usually harmless, but sensitive people can experience unpleasant allergic reactions such as redness and severe itching. Hobby gardeners who are prone to allergies should wear gloves when caring for the cut.

    The consumption of plant parts of the poinsettia can also lead to symptoms of poisoning in small children and small pets such as rabbits, hamsters or cats. However, these are usually only slight, since a large part of the toxic diterpenes have been bred out of the local culture specimens.

    If the poinsettia is swallowed, despite the fact that the poinsettia is not necessarily tasty, this is mainly reflected in digestive disorders such as diarrhea. With larger amounts, this can be bloody and cardiac arrhythmias can also occur.

    Appropriate measures are the administration of charcoal tablets to small children. In the case of severe symptoms of poisoning, consult the toxicological emergency service. In the case of animals, you should immediately consult a veterinarian.

    To remember:

    • Poinsettia milky sap slightly toxic
    • Causes skin irritation, if swallowed gastrointestinal complaints and possibly cardiovascular disorders
    • Especially keep away from small children and small pets

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    tip

    If you want more of the flower, be careful when purchasing a poinsettia. On the one hand, you should refrain from specimens from the supermarket, as they usually do not take the environmental requirements of the plant into account at all. They are often too cold and drafty here because they are placed in the entrance area during the season. Too much cold can cause the plant to wither quickly after being transported home.

    It is therefore better to look around in reputable plant shops for a beautiful, healthy and species-appropriate specimen that is not too cold. You should also make sure that the flowers are not fully open and have not been sprayed with paint. Transport the poinsettia carefully and wrapped in paper and offer it a suitable location there.

    sorts

    The natural color of the bract rosettes of the poinsettia is the classic red. And this color is still the most popular and best-selling - probably simply because it harmonises so well with the rich dark green of the leaves and this color combination in particular has a classic Christmassy effect.

    Nevertheless, nurseries have been trying to breed other colors for a long time, so that a whole range of other tones are now available. Spraying the specimens with plant-friendly paint has also become common practice, preferably covered with Christmas glitter. However, the latter in particular can stick together flowers that have already opened, so that the plants prepared in this way are only suitable for one-time seasonal cultivation.

    Princetia

    Poinsettias from the Princettia variety group are mainly available in specialist shops. This variety designation is a portmanteau of 'princess' and 'poinsettia', which refers to the particularly graceful beauty of these breeds. The Princettia poinsettias have slightly smaller and less knotty-looking flowers than their peers, which means that the decorative, colored bracts make a somewhat cleaner appearance. Their rosette-shaped arrangement is nevertheless somewhat airier than with other varieties.

    Princettia poinsettias come in numerous color variations, ranging from bright pink to rich scarlet pink, orange and snow white.

    Patterned cultivars such as the red and white speckled 'White Glitter' are also very attractive and also very Christmassy. Their white speckles look like snowflakes on the red background of the bracts. Individual bracts also initially appear entirely white.

    The light yellow flowering, relatively small and bushy variety 'Lemon Drop' sets a very cheerful and sunny accent in the winter room. Especially after the turn of the year, it can ensure a positive mood of optimism, thinking towards spring.

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Category:

Indoor plants