Anthuriums, also known as flamingo flowers, are very attractive houseplants with their large, glossy leaves and colorful inflorescences. No wonder they keep coming back in fashion. With a little attention, cultivation can be successful.

The Anthurium is at home in the rainforest

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossom
  5. Which location is suitable?
  6. What soil does the plant need?
  7. Water anthurium
  8. Fertilize anthurium properly
  9. Properly cut anthurium
  10. Propagating Anthurium
  11. divide
  12. Diseases
  13. pests
  14. Yellow leaves
  15. brown leaves
  16. Brown spots
  17. Is Anthurium Poisonous?
  18. meal
  19. Is Anthurium Poisonous to Cats?
  20. sorts

    21. origin

    The anthurium, also known as the flamingo flower because of its eye-catching reddish inflorescence, originally comes from the neotropical regions of Central and South America and the Caribbean islands. It is therefore an absolute rainforest plant and can only be kept as a houseplant in our house. Of the approximately 1000 species of the genus, only the large and small flamingo flowers (Anthurium andreanum and Anthurium scherzerianum) and hybrid breeds of both are widespread for the local window sill ornamental culture.

    growth

    Anthuriums grow as evergreen perennials and reach stature heights of 40 to 100 centimeters and a width of about 30 to 60 centimeters. They belong to the epiphytes, so they usually settle on trees in the wild. But there are also terrestrial species.

    leaves

    From a biological point of view, the anthurium is primarily a decorative leaf plant. Because the most striking thing about it are its leaves, above all, of course, the colorful bract under the flower, the spathe, which serves to attract attention to the actual flower. But the leaves are also a magnificent sight with their flat, elongated, heart-shaped shape and their rich, medium-green color. They have a slightly leathery consistency and are shiny. The bract shines in white, pink, pink or bright red and shines, at least in the case of the flamingo flower.

    With the many species in addition to the large and small flamingo flower, there is a much more diverse wealth of leaf shapes.

    Let's hold on:

    • Leaves elongate heart-shaped and glossy
    • leathery consistency
    • Bract colorful under the flower

    blossom

    The actual flower, to which the colored bract is usually felt to belong, is only the small bulb that sits in the axil of the spathe. It usually has an elongated cylindrical to club-like shape and is pale yellow, orange, or red in color. An inflorescence can be formed on each inflorescence stem - in late spring to early summer, around May to June, the flamingo flower can therefore be covered in a veritable firework of colors that stands out attractively from the lush green foliage.

    Which location is suitable?

    Anthuriums, like so many other rainforest plants, need a bright, warm, draught-free location without direct sunlight. You should therefore place the flamingo flower in a window seat where it is shaded by other indoor plants. The temperature should be at least 20°C, the anthurium thrives best at around 23 to 25°C. In winter, however, it should be a bit cooler, around 16 to 18°C - this gives it the necessary temperature stimulus, which leads to good flowering after the winter break.

    As a tropical plant, the flamingo flower naturally also benefits from high humidity. It is best to give her a fine, misty spray shower from the water disperser on a regular basis.

    To remember:

    • Location must be warm and bright
    • protect from direct sunlight and drafts
    • high humidity
    • Temperatures in summer between 20 and 25°C, in winter between 16 and 18°C

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    What soil does the plant need?

    As an epiphyte, the Anthurium does not necessarily need a soil substrate, but can also be planted in pure peat. In this case, however, a regular supply of nutrients is necessary. A loose mixture of slightly acidic (orchid) soil is best, which you loosen up with peat dust, sphagnum or leaf soil. A high humus content is also highly recommended, so mix in some compost as well. In any case, the substrate should be loose and well drained.

    You can also keep an anthurium well in hydroponics in expanded clay substrate over a water-nutrient solution.

    Water anthurium

    The water requirement of the flamingo flower is relatively high. So you should water plenty. However, there must be no permanent footbath, otherwise root rot cannot be ruled out. Make sure the substrate is always moist. During the winter break, the watering is reduced somewhat. Important: Use lukewarm water that is as low in lime as possible. The Anthurium is very sensitive to lime and generally does not like the cold.

    Casting practice at a glance:

    • Anthurium quite thirsty
    • Always keep the root ball moist
    • But avoid waterlogging
    • water less in winter
    • Use low-lime, lukewarm water

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    Fertilize anthurium properly

    The flamingo flower should be fertilized in moderation, but in small steps. It is best to add some liquid fertilizer in a low concentration to your irrigation water once a week during the growing season from spring to autumn. During the winter break, the application of fertilizer is greatly reduced or stopped altogether.

    • fertilize moderately but evenly throughout the growing season
    • very little or not at all in winter

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    Properly cut anthurium

    You do not have to cut the anthurium.

    Propagating Anthurium

    The flamingo flower is best propagated by root division. This method is particularly useful in view of its clump-forming roots, which require annual repotting anyway. You can also use the pot change in spring for propagation.

    When dividing the root ball, you must ensure that the new section to be planted has at least one leaf with well-developed, healthy roots. Place it in a pot with loose, slightly acidic and peaty soil and keep it bright and warm. For an even, warm, humid growth climate, it is advisable to cover the plant with a foil bag at the beginning.

    To remember:

    • Division is the best method of propagation
    • best done in spring when repotting
    • section must have at least one leaf with established roots
    • Plant in species-appropriate substrate and keep warm and bright
    • keep moist, possibly allow to grow under foil

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    divide

    You can read how to divide an anthurium in the “Propagation” section.
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    Diseases

    Diseases are not really an issue with the Anthurium. If she shows unhealthy symptoms, care mistakes are usually the cause. If necessary, the plant can be affected by leaf spot disease, a fungal disease. It manifests itself in brown spots on the leaves. Countermeasures include removing the diseased parts of the plant and applying a fungicide.
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    pests

    The flamingo flower can be attacked by certain pests, especially if the room air is too dry. The main potential candidates are spider mites and scale insects.

    spider mites

    These small parasites often occur in indoor plants that are exposed to too dry heating air, contrary to their high humidity requirements. The mites are very small but quite noticeable to the naked eye, especially if they are the reddish variety. But there are also greenish to white-yellowish species that can hardly be identified on the leaves. However, the infestation is clearly recognizable by the fine webs with which the mites cover the leaf axils and stems.

    Fortunately, combating spider mites is relatively easy and at the same time corrects the causal care mistake: water is the element with which the annoying comrades can best be driven away and which the plant usually lacked before and made susceptible to infestation in the first place .

    First, the spider mites can simply be sprayed off mechanically with a strong jet of water. The whole plant is then closed under a film while it is still wet. In the damp and air-poor climate that develops underneath, the mites usually die within a week.

    scale insects

    Scale insects are also one of the most common pests on indoor plants. They suck the plant sap of their host and secrete honeydew, which apart from worrying about their plants also sticks the hobby gardener's windows and window sills.

    Like spider mites, you can tackle scale insects mechanically. Thoroughly wipe the leaves of the anthurium with a damp rag. Since the leaves are quite robust, you don't need to be overly timid. If the infestation is more stubborn, you can also use a spray treatment with garlic, fern or nettle broth. In very severe cases, resort to oil preparations that suffocate the lice.

    Yellow leaves

    If your flamingo flower gets yellow leaves, this is usually due to a lack of light or a substrate that is too wet.

    lack of light

    Providing the anthurium with the right lighting conditions is certainly not trivial. A lot of brightness without direct sunlight is a bit difficult to achieve. However, natural, light shading by a neighboring plant on the windowsill or by a thin awning can be good solutions.

    waterlogging

    Meticulous weighing is also the be-all and end-all when it comes to watering. Strictly regular watering, in which the substrate is always moist but never in water, requires a lot of attention. If you don't want to go through all that trouble, you can also resort to hydroponics. Anthuriums generally do very well there.
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    brown leaves

    The leaves of the flamingo flower, on the other hand, tend to turn brown if there is too little sun protection, if the substrate is too impermeable, if there is root rot or if there is overfertilization.

    Lack of sun protection

    Be sure to protect your Anthurium from strong sunlight. Otherwise there is a risk of sunburn, which will weaken the plant in the long run.

    Impermeable substrate

    As an epiphyte, the flamingo flower needs a lot of air at the roots. She does not feel at all comfortable in a substrate that is too dense. Brown leaves can indicate that it is not able to adequately breathe through the roots. So put them in a loose, peaty substrate as possible.

    root rot

    Brown leaves can also indicate an advanced condition as a result of overwatering - in the form of root rot. This condition is quite critical and requires immediate repotting. Before placing in the new pot, remove all rotten root parts as thoroughly as possible and from now on only water to the extent that the substrate does not dry out.
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    Brown spots

    Brown spots usually indicate leaf spot disease. The best way to combat this fungal disease, like most other indoor plant fungal diseases, is to carefully remove the affected parts of the plant and then use a fungicidal spray.
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    Is Anthurium Poisonous?

    Unfortunately, anthuriums are slightly poisonous in all parts of the plant. Like other arum plants, the leaves in particular also contain the saponin aroin and calcium oxalate, which the plant distributes to potential attackers via tiny needles. Therefore, even touching it can cause skin irritation in the form of redness, swelling and even blistering. However, the cultivated forms are usually not as poisonous as the wild forms.
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    meal

    Even more critical is the consumption of parts of the flamingo flower. It should therefore be kept away from small children and pets in particular. Symptoms when eating anthurium parts are initially reddening and blistering of the mucous membranes in the mouth and throat, as well as painful swelling of the tongue. If swallowed, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea will soon occur.

    Adequate first aid is to drink plenty of fluids to help flush out the poison. However, the symptoms usually subside on their own after 2-3 hours. In the worst case, larger amounts consumed can lead to gastrointestinal bleeding - in this case at the latest a doctor should be consulted.

    Is Anthurium Poisonous to Cats?

    Due to their low body mass, cats show signs of poisoning, which are similar to those in humans, even with small doses of ingested parts of flamingo flowers. There is also increased salivation. Try to get the animal to drink. If the symptoms are severe, see a veterinarian as soon as possible.
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    sorts

    When asking which cultivar to bring into the room, it is best to use the color of the spathe as a guide. It is in fact the most characteristic of the different varieties. The other properties are largely the same.

    Varieties of the Lesser Flamingo Flower

    The varieties are often crosses, but are still often attributed to the small or large flamingo flower. The former develop slightly smaller but more numerous inflorescences. They grow to about 30 to 50 centimeters in height. The leaves are rather lanceolate and the spathe is only slightly heart-shaped in the axil. It usually has little or no shine. The flowering period is between May and June.

    Red bract:

    Anthurium scherzerianum Arthur: This variety shows an intense scarlet, matt-shiny spathe and a mostly reddish spadix floret.

    Anthurium scherzerianum Rothschildianum: The bract of this cultivar has white spots on the red base color, making it particularly attractive and eye-catching.

    Pink bract

    *Anthurium scherzerianum Amaretti*:
    With its pink spathe, this variety has a slightly more delicate appearance.

    White bract

    *Anthurium scherzerianum Album*:
    This variety forms snow-white bracts with yellow spadix blooms.

    Varieties of the Flamingo Flower

    The varieties of Anthurium andreanum form larger but less numerous inflorescences. The leaves are also larger, with a blade width of up to 40 centimetres, have a leatherier consistency, a shinier surface and a pronounced heart shape. In height, the great flamingo flower reaches up to one meter. The flowers are formed between May and June.

    Anthurium andreanum Princess Amalia Elegance:
    This variety looks particularly noble and almost diva-like due to the scarlet, fine veins on the white spathe. The spadix is also in the same shade of scarlet.

    Anthurium andreanum Rosee Choco:
    This variety has a deep, reddish-brown spathe, giving it a very raised appearance.

    *Anthurium andreanum Acropolis*:
    The inflorescences of this variety show up with a beautiful, large bract in creamy white and a white spadix flower that turns yellow at the top.

    *Anthurium andreanum Calisto*:
    This variety looks very interesting with light green spathe and accents and spadix in pink.

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Indoor plants