Dieffenbachia are popular decorative foliage plants because of their large, attractively structured fronds. And like some other tropical plants, it can be cultivated in our room all year round without any problems.

The Dieffenbachia comes from the tropics

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossom
  5. Which location is suitable?
  6. What soil does the plant need?
  7. Pour Dieffenbachia
  8. Fertilize Dieffenbachia properly
  9. Properly cut Dieffenbachia
  10. shorten
  11. repot
  12. Multiply Dieffenbachia
  13. offshoot
  14. Diseases
  15. brown leaves
  16. Brown spots
  17. Is Dieffenbachia poisonous?
  18. sorts

    19. origin

    Dieffenbachia originally come from the so-called Neotropics, an area that stretches across large parts of South and Central America and the West Indies. The various Dieffenbachia species are mainly found between Costa Rica and Colombia. Their original habitat is therefore a tropical, humid and warm one, which of course makes outdoor cultivation in our latitudes impossible. On the other hand, Dieffenbachia cope well with being kept in a pot in a heated room all year round.

    The plant genus got its name from Joseph Dieffenbach, the longtime head gardener of the Vienna Imperial Palace Gardens Schönbrunn. With this, the Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott erected a grateful monument to him.

    The key data at a glance:

    • Dieffenbachia come from South and Central America
    • original habitat i.e. tropical-humid
    • well suited for year-round room culture
    • named after Austrian imperial gardener Joseph Dieffenbach

    growth

    Dieffenbachia belong to the arum family, grow as evergreen perennials and assume a shrubby shape. They have a thick stem which, when the plant is grown outdoors, can also easily prostrate due to the large, heavy leaves. The stem remains unbranched, so the leaves attach directly to it, but still form an impressive overall volume due to their large shape.

    leaves

    As already emphasized at the beginning, the leaves of the Dieffenbachia are the most important part of the plant from an ornamental or room gardening point of view. They have a generous, ovate to oblanceolate leaf blade and are alternate on the stem.

    They are particularly decorative due to the variegation that many varieties show. This can be structured in different ways - sometimes speckled, sometimes with two-dimensional interior markings or fine striped patterns in creamy white. The green basic color of the leaves varies from variety to variety between rich, deep dark green to light shades of green.

    The leaf characteristics of the Dieffenbachia:

    • alternately attached directly to the stem
    • ovate to oblanceolate, large leaf blade
    • often very pretty variegation structures

    blossom

    From an aesthetic point of view, the flowering of the Dieffenbachia is of secondary importance. Also, it's actually rarely produced. It has a bulb shape, typical of the arum family, with a tightly enclosing bract, the spathe. The color of the spadix and the spathe do not stand out particularly, but appear in simple light green to creamy white. The production of the flower costs the Dieffenbachia a lot of energy. So if you want to keep them in the room permanently for decorative purposes, you should cut off the flower.

    The most important thing about the Dieffenbachia flower:

    • aesthetically rather less spectacular
    • Piston shape with bract, typical of the arum family
    • inconspicuous, light green coloration
    • very debilitating for the plant, possibly cut it off

    Continue reading

    Which location is suitable?

    According to their tropical homeland, Dieffenbachia need a lot of heat above all. Your comfort zone is slightly above the temperature that most people find comfortable in their home - hardly anyone would like to live permanently at 26-30°C. However, the Dieffenbachia can also thrive at a temperature of 21°C and above - this is a good place to meet up with it for a long-term shared apartment.

    The highest possible humidity is also important for the Dieffenbachia - after all, it comes from the rainforest. It is therefore best to pamper them regularly with a spray shower, especially during the winter heating period. It's also a good idea to put them in the bathroom, where the humidity is higher than in the living room or bedroom anyway. You should protect the plant from drafts as much as possible.

    You should also give your Dieffenbachia plenty of light. However, like some other rainforest plants, it does not tolerate full sun well. A bright window seat is best for her, and she shouldn't stand in the dark even in winter. However, it should be a bit cooler because of the inevitably lower light supply, around 15 to 18°C.

    The location rules at a glance:

    • Warm: In summer 21-30°C, in winter 15-18°C
    • As high humidity as possible
    • No draft
    • Lots of light but not full sun

    Continue reading

    What soil does the plant need?

    Dieffenbachia do not need a particularly complicated substrate. It is best to use a peaty soil mixture to which you add some compost. To prevent waterlogging, you should add some expanded clay (€19.73) to the lower part.

    Pour Dieffenbachia

    You should water the Dieffenbachia regularly and quite a lot. However, the root ball must not get waterlogged, otherwise it can rot. So keep it evenly moist but not wet. To prevent long-term damage, if the root ball has been wet for too long, remove it from the pot and wrap it in newspaper until dry. In winter there is a little less watering than in summer.

    The Dieffenbachia needs a lot of moisture from the air. So spray it with the disperser from time to time and give it the illusion of a pleasantly gentle, tropical precipitation.

    Notice:

    • water regularly and relatively much
    • Avoid waterlogging as far as possible
    • spray with Disperser in addition to watering

    Fertilize Dieffenbachia properly

    The nutrient requirement of Dieffenbachia is moderate. In order to promote fresh, vital growth, especially with regular topiary, you can mix some liquid fertilizer into the irrigation water during the main vegetation phase - but no more frequently than once every two weeks. The fertilizer application is stopped in autumn.

    Properly cut Dieffenbachia

    A Dieffenbachia in indoor culture tolerates one or the other radical pruning - because with increasing age it can become bare in the lower part of the stem, which does not look nice. In spring, perhaps at the same time as repotting, you can cut back a specimen that has lost a lot of leaves in the lower part to about 10 to 20 cm. To do this, use a sharp knife and, of course, gloves.
    Continue reading

    shorten

    You can also give your Dieffenbachia a regular shape cut. To do this, shorten the upper shoots above a slightly curved, sleeping eye. Here it can then drive out again in a controlled manner.
    Continue reading

    repot

    The Dieffenbachia species have different growth rates - in general, however, they do not grow too quickly and only have to be repotted every 2 years, with older specimens only every 4 years. The new pot should not be disproportionately larger than the old one. Important: Because of the toxicity of the plant, wear gloves when repotting,
    Continue reading

    Multiply Dieffenbachia

    You can multiply Dieffenbachia quite easily and in different ways.

    The simplest method is to cut head or stem cuttings. A head cutting can easily be rooted in a glass of water. For stem cuttings, cut about 5 cm long pieces from the stem and place them with the long cut side on a soil substrate. It is good to put them on under foil in a protected, evenly moist microclimate. For both methods, the warmest possible base temperature of at least 22°C also applies.

    A third method is division. This is best used when repotting is due anyway. Divide a piece of the rhizome root ball together with the mature above-ground part of the plant and place it in its own pot. Growing works best in spring when the light supply increases.

    The propagation methods at a glance:

    • Head cuttings with rooting in a water glass
    • Stem cuttings with horizontal roots in the soil substrate
    • Division of the root ball

    As with all handling of the Dieffenbachia, it is also important to remember the toxicity of the plant when propagating: Always wear gloves when cutting cuttings and especially when dividing the roots!
    Continue reading

    offshoot

    The best way to make offshoots to expand your Dieffenbachia collection or for fellow gardeners is to use cuttings.
    Continue reading

    Diseases

    Dieffenbachia are moderately susceptible to diseases and pests. What can affect the plant most are unsuitable environmental conditions and care mistakes, such as too dry or drafty air, waterlogging or full sunlight.

    The following parasites in particular can occur on pests:

    • spider mites
    • fungus gnats
    • scale insects
    • Mealybug

    spider mites

    If the air is dry, the Dieffenbachie can also easily get spider mites. At the same time, fighting them serves to correct the trigger: because the parasites can best be eliminated with water - initially simply by rinsing them off, then with a damp, sealed permanent climate under foil.

    fungus gnats

    If the Dieffenbachia is very damp, fungus gnats can be attracted and settle in the soil substrate. If there is an infestation, you can let the root ball dry off for a short time. At the same time, you can reduce the population of fungus gnats with sticky yellow boards.

    scale insects

    You should also regularly check your Dieffenbachia for scale insects. They are difficult to see with the naked eye. If the infestation is weak, you can simply wipe them off the leaves with a damp cloth or shower under a jet of water. For larger populations, a spray mixture with garlic or nettle is suitable.

    Mealybug

    Mealy bugs can also infest the Dieffenbachie. You can easily recognize them by the woolly webs they attach to the leaves. The best way to combat them is with a mixture of one liter of water, 15 milliliters of spirit and 15 milliliters of curd soap.
    Continue reading

    brown leaves

    Brown leaves usually indicate drought. If the Dieffenbachia has been dry for a long time or the air is not humid enough, you should change that quickly. Water regularly and treat the plant to a hydrating mist shower from time to time.
    Continue reading

    Brown spots

    Brown spots on Dieffenbachia leaves are mostly sun damage. Was the plant in the full sun for a longer period of time? Then you should change your location. Heating air that is too dry can also lead to dry, brown spots.
    Continue reading

    Is Dieffenbachia poisonous?

    One ugly thing about the Dieffenbachia is its toxicity. And this is not irrelevant. If you have small children, cats or dogs in your household, it is better to avoid the plant. Fortunately, there are a few other beautiful foliage houseplants, such as the golden fruit palm, that are suitable as alternatives.

    The fact is that all parts of the Dieffenbachia contain highly toxic substances, especially alkaloids, oxalic acid, saponins and pungent substances. Even 3-4 grams of the leaves are considered a lethal dose for adults alone.

    Reactions to oral intake are initially burning and severe, even suffocating swelling of the mucous membranes, followed by vomiting and diarrhea. The esophagus and stomach can suffer severe chemical burns, and cramps, impaired consciousness and paralysis can also occur.

    Measures in the event of a "Dieffenbachia accident" are the administration of medicinal charcoal and a cortisone spray to counteract the inflammation and swelling. Above all, you should alert the toxicological emergency service immediately.

    When handling the Dieffenbachia, i.e. when cutting and repotting, rubber gloves should always be worn.

    To remember:

    • All plant parts of the Dieffenbachie are highly poisonous
    • Cultivation in the household with small children and pets is therefore taboo
    • Even a dose of 3-4 g is lethal in adults
    • Always wear gloves when handling

    tip
    Do you work in an area with increased exposure to gasoline fumes or fumes from composite materials? Imagine a Dieffenbachia in the office! (If you can offer her suitable conditions there). Dieffenbachia are one of the particularly air-purifying plants that, in addition to carbon dioxide, also absorb benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethene to a large extent. You can protect your health in the long term and, above all, reduce the risk of cancer.
    Continue reading

    sorts

    Most Dieffenbachia varieties are hybrids that differ little from each other in terms of care requirements.

    Dieffenbachia maculata

    This variety is the most common ornamental variety and can be recognized by its dark, broad, cream-variegated leaves, about 25 cm long, with pointed tips. The Dieffenbachia maculata grows to a height of about 60 cm to one meter and, with its moderate size, is very well suited for indoor cultivation.

    Dieffenbachia imperialis

    This species, which originates from Peru, is, as its name suggests, a particularly large one: it reaches a stature height of about one meter to room height and a relatively wide spread. Its leaves are characterized by a pretty speckle structure in a yellowish tone on dark green. The leaves are also quite large, up to 60 cm long and about 30 cm wide.

    Dieffenbachia exotica

    In contrast to the Dieffenbachia imperialis, the Dieffenbachia exotica is a rather small variety. Its leaves are only about 25 cm long and 10 cm wide and are oval in shape. Their variegation is quite extensive, irregularly spotted and appears in yellowish tones. With her leaf structure and compact size, she is a very attractive and recommended strain.

    Dieffenbachia bowmannii

    This variety is a bit larger again - like the Dieffenbachia imperialis, its leaves can reach a length of up to 60 centimeters. They are elliptical in shape and have a deep green base color. They are adorned with a spotty variegation in light green.

    Dieffenbachia bausei

    The Dieffenbachia bausei also shows a pretty spot structure on the leaves - but in a slightly different color combination: the basic color of the leaves is more yellowish green here, while the variegation is dark green. The edges of the leaves are also marked by a dark green border, which gives them an additional, finely defined structure. In terms of size, the leaves of Dieffenbachia bausei are slightly smaller than those of Dieffenbachia bowmannii and lanceolate. In length they reach about 35 cm, in width up to 15 cm.

Category:

Indoor plants