- origin
- houseplant
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- Which location is suitable?
- Water the schefflera
- Cut schefflera properly
- shorten
- bonsai
- repot
- Yellow leaves
- brown leaves
- Losing leaves
- Diseases
- pests
- multiply schefflera
- cuttings
- Toxic to cats
- meal
- sorts
With its attractively fingered leaves, the schefflera is one of the most popular ornamental indoor plants and is also very easy to care for. The varieties of the small Schefflera are available in almost every plant center.

Table of Contents
Show all- origin
- houseplant
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- Which location is suitable?
- Water the schefflera
- Cut schefflera properly
- shorten
- bonsai
- repot
- Yellow leaves
- brown leaves
- Losing leaves
- Diseases
- pests
- multiply schefflera
- cuttings
- Toxic to cats
- meal
- sorts
- Indoor schefflera rarely produces them
- racemose inconspicuous umbels with fine, downy bract hairs
- Flowering time around July to August
- Schefflera is well suited for bonsai culture due to its rapid growth
- If possible, deformation should only be done by cutting and not by wire
- Sheets can also be shaped individually by cutting
- too wet substrate/root rot
- too sunny/too dark location
- not enough water
- too much direct sunlight and heat
- sudden temperature change from warm to cold
- too dark and too cold location
- abrupt light change due to change of location
- too wet substrate
- Mealybug
- spider mites
- scale insects
- thrisps
origin
The plant genus Schefflera comes from tropical and subtropical Asia and Australia. Depending on the species, the areas of origin are still a little limited - the most important species for the local indoor culture, the Schefflera arboricola, is mainly distributed in Taiwan. From there it brings with it very low care requirements - it is therefore ideal as a houseplant for beginners.
houseplant
The schefflera is predestined as a beginner's houseplant because, as a tropical plant, it needs consistently warm temperatures - and you can automatically offer them that in a heated room. Due to its tall, slender growth with less branching, it also does not take up much space and yet offers an attractive sight with beautiful volume thanks to its broadly fingered, nicely variegated leaves.
Continue reading
leaves
From an ornamental gardening point of view, the leaves are the most important thing in the radiant aralie. With their wide-fingered arrangement and the light green to cream-colored variegation on a dark green background, they can set a great structural accent in groups of indoor plants on the windowsill. The single leaves of the alternately attached finger arrangements are oval to obovate, evergreen and mostly entire, sawed in some species.
blossom
The flower plays a rather subordinate role in radiant aralia in indoor culture - on the one hand because it is not necessarily particularly spectacular. Above all, however, because a specimen kept in the room rarely produces them. So you can count yourself lucky if your schefflera gives you one - this is especially possible with an older plant.
The flowers of a schefflera are racemose umbels in a greenish to yellowish tone with small, hairy bracts. Their fine, flaky appearance contrasts nicely with the smooth, dark foliage. In the wild, the flowering period lasts from July to October, in indoor culture only until August.
The flower characteristics at a glance:
Continue reading
fruit
The fruits that develop after the flowers have faded are also quite attractive: the mustard-yellow to orange-red, small berries on the dark flower stalks provide a nice splash of color in the foliage.
Which location is suitable?
Like so many tropical plants, the Schefflera needs a relatively bright but not full sun location. However, she can also thrive quite well in a darker corner. In summer you can also put them outside for a while - but they should not be exposed to temperatures below 10°C. In general, it can be kept in a heated room all year round, because it also gets along well with dry air. What she likes less, on the other hand, is drafts.
Water the schefflera
The water requirement of the radiant aralie is moderate. Only water when the substrate has completely dried out after the last watering. If the bale is permanently wet, there is a risk of root rot. The Schefflera is also ideal for convenient hydroponics with soilless expanded clay substrate (€19.73) placed in a water nutrient solution in the planter. Then you don't need to water at all.
Continue reading
Cut schefflera properly
The Schefflera arboricola grows into a stately tree in the wild. Of course you can't do that in the room. A regular topiary is therefore essential, especially since the radiant macaw is very vigorous. In principle, it can be cut just like other woody plants. Shoots that are too long are best removed directly above a branch fork. A cut has a rejuvenating effect with vital new growth, especially after a lot of leaf loss after overwintering.
Continue reading
shorten
In order to keep their height under control and at the same time promote compact, bushy growth, the side and main shoots should be trimmed regularly. The best time to shorten is in early spring.
Continue reading
bonsai
Due to its fast growth, the Schefflera is also well suited for bonsai culture. However, the freedom of design is limited - because the branches of the radiant macaw break relatively easily, so that the wiring can only be done with great care. What you can experiment with, however, is the shaping by pruning. If you decapitate a young specimen when purchasing it and regularly cut back over the newly sprouting bud bases, you will get an umbrella-like crown.
It is even possible to modify and artistically shape the leaves by regular topiary.
To remember:
Continue reading
repot
You should repot a young Schefflera relatively often, about once a year. It has a rejuvenating and revitalizing effect on the plant if you shorten its roots a little. If you discover rotten spots, you can also remove them before you put the schefflera in a new, slightly larger pot.
Continue reading
Yellow leaves
If your schefflera's leaves are turning yellow, it may have different greens. The most likely are:
root rot?
If you watered the schefflera too much and left it too wet, the roots may have rotted. Remove the plant from the pot and check the root ball for rotten spots. If they are still sporadic, you can remove them and put the root ball in fresh soil - in the worst case
Wrong location?
If there is too much direct sunlight or in a corner of the room that is too dark, the Schefflera can also react with yellow leaves. Try a different location with moderate lighting conditions.
Continue reading
brown leaves
Brown leaves usually indicate dryness. Possible causes for this are:
lack of water?
Although the schefflera does not need a lot of water compared to some other tropical plants, too little is of course not good either. Check the root ball for dryness and water regularly from then on.
Sun exposure and heat?
Brown leaves can also simply be sunburn. Keep your schefflera out of direct sunlight and away from intense heat.
temperature change?
If you want to put the schefflera outside in the summer, you can do so as long as it's not much cooler outside than in the heated room. The schefflera can also respond with brown leaves if the temperature changes too much from warm to cold.
Continue reading
Losing leaves
When the schefflera's leaves change color, she usually sheds them after a while. If she sheds a lot of leaves without any color warning, it can indicate the following:
Too dark and too cold?
If the schefflera is too dark, it can shed its leaves. It must not be too cold either - in summer the ambient temperature should not fall below 18°C, in winter 10°C.
Abrupt light change?
If you move your schefflera to a different location, for example in winter, this can also affect it. Don't expect it to change too much in the light - it's best to just leave it in a window seat all year round.
Too wet?
A substrate that is too wet and root rot can also be the trigger when the leaves are dropped. Replacing the top layer of soil and removing any rotten root parts can help here.
Continue reading
Diseases
Fortunately, the Schefflera is quite robust against diseases. Actually, it only shows unhealthy reactions when certain care mistakes are made - such as yellow and falling leaves when there is too much water and root rot or lack of light, brown and burnt leaves when it is dry and hot. These care mistakes can usually be easily corrected.
Continue reading
pests
Pests, on the other hand, are occasionally an issue. Sometimes the Schefflera can be attacked by the following pests:
Mealybug
Mealybugs are easy to recognize by the typical woolly webs on the leaves. The best way to spray mealybugs is with a mixture of water, some spirit and some curd soap.
spider mites
Spider mites also give themselves away clearly, through thread-like webs. You can best rinse them off with water first and then wrap the plant under foil. The mites do not tolerate humid air and also suffocate under the foil seal.
scale insects
Scale insects can infest almost any houseplant. They prefer to attach themselves to the branches and shoots, the stems and the undersides of the leaves. If the infestation is still weak (check regularly!), the parasites can simply be wiped off with a damp cloth. In the case of a stronger infestation, spraying with a water and nettle broth or an oily preparation is suitable.
thrisps
These partly winged insects feel particularly comfortable in dry heat. So there is an increased risk, especially in summer, that they will infest your radiant macaw. The best way to combat them is like scale insects: First, rinse off with water and, if the infestation is more stubborn, tackle them with a water-nettle broth or water-tansy broth. Preparations based on neem tree oil have also proven their worth.
Continue reading
multiply schefflera
Ray aralia can be propagated relatively easily by cuttings. To do this, you cut a shoot that has not yet lignified and simply leave it rooted in a glass of water. You can also sow a schefflera. With a warm soil temperature of 18-20°C, a seed will germinate after about 2 to 3 weeks. A warm, humid, even cultivation climate under foil is also recommended.
Continue reading
cuttings
In addition to being in a glass of water, you can also root the cuttings in potting soil. However, a soil temperature of around 18°C should be guaranteed. Of course, you also have to keep the substrate evenly moist.
Continue reading
Toxic to cats
Radiant aralia are quite slightly poisonous - they contain oxalate crystals in all parts of the plant, which are only harmful when consumed in large quantities. Skin contact with the leaves is usually not critical, but it can also lead to slight irritation. Oral intake, on the other hand, is not to be taken lightly, especially in cats, which are known to like to develop an intimate relationship with indoor plants.
The problem is that cats cannot break down the oxalic crystals in their intestines and only partially excrete them. However, this can lead to the formation of kidney stones, damage to the bladder and trigger arthritis. If you keep a cat in the house, you should rather refrain from a radiate ara as a new housemate.
Continue reading
meal
Of course, it is also anything but advisable for humans to nibble on the pretty leaves of the radiant macaw. Of course, this applies above all to small children, in whom even small amounts of oxalate can make themselves felt - through irritation of the mucous membranes, vomiting and diarrhea. If small children live in the household, keep a radiant ara at a height that is out of reach for the youngsters.
sorts
With the varieties of Schefflera arboricola, a distinction can first be made between the green and the variegated. Which of these two groups you tend to belong to is, on the one hand, a matter of taste. On the other hand, the associated varieties also have slightly different location requirements.
Green Varieties
The purely green varieties generally require less light than the light variegated ones. They are therefore also suitable for a less light-flooded corner of the room that wants to be filled with attractively structured foliage.
Schefflera compacta
This variety has dark, lush green finger leaves and, as it is named, a compact habit. This makes it particularly suitable for bonsai culture. Indoors, it grows to a height of about 1.30 to 1.50 m. Like all green radiant arias, it gets by with relatively little light.
Schefflera Amate
The Schefflera Amate stands out because of its large, dark green and very shiny leaves. It tolerates a semi-shady location well and is generally easy to care for - so it is also an ideal office plant. Overall, it grows almost as tall as the Schefflera Compacta.
Variegated Varieties
With variegation, the finger leaves of the Schefflera naturally radiate a special color and structural aesthetic and can be a real eye-catcher in the room. The variegated varieties have to be a little lighter, but are otherwise not very maintenance-intensive.
Schefflera Gold Capella
As its name suggests, the variegation of this variety is yellowish-golden, which gives it a special appeal. It is also one of the classic indoor plants and is often found in offices. The variegation can vary quite strongly within the foliage, since it only spreads out more widely with larger leaves. The young shoots create a fine, still dark green contrast. The Schefflera Gold Capella needs a relatively bright location, but like all radiant aralia it must be protected from direct sunlight.
Schefflera Renate
This variety, like the Schefflera Diane, is characterized by the leaves that are slit at the tips. This gives the foliage a further structural accent in addition to the light variegation. The Schefflera Renate should also be relatively bright, otherwise it is easy to care for and only needs moderate watering.