- origin
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- growth
- use
- Is clivia poisonous?
- Which location is suitable?
- balcony
- What soil does the plant need?
- multiply clivia
- sowing
- Clivia in the pot
- Water the clivia
- Fertilize Clivie properly
- Cut clivie properly
- repot
- hibernate
- Diseases
- pests
- Clivia does not bloom
- sorts
Clivia are indoor plants with exciting flowers. But now they have been somewhat forgotten, which has to do with their sensitivity. The plants need very special site conditions and care measures so that they grow and bloom healthily.

Table of Contents
Show all- origin
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- growth
- use
- Is clivia poisonous?
- Which location is suitable?
- balcony
- What soil does the plant need?
- multiply clivia
- sowing
- Clivia in the pot
- Water the clivia
- Fertilize Clivie properly
- Cut clivie properly
- repot
- hibernate
- Diseases
- pests
- Clivia does not bloom
- sorts
- to cough
- vomiting and diarrhea
- salivation
- signs of paralysis
- loamy to humic
- water permeable
- loose structure
- low in lime
- nutritious
- striata: Old variety, important breeding form. Leaves variegated yellowish-green, young plants from young plants also develop this coloration.
- Aurea: Cream-colored flowers, blooms in winter.
- Clivia nobilis: Hanging flowers, petals orange with a green tip or yellowish pink.
origin
The term Clivie describes both the genus Clivia and the popular ornamental plant Clivia miniata. It belongs to the amaryllis family and originally comes from South Africa. The plant grows in the valleys of Swaziland and in the provinces of KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga and Eastern Cape. The clivia arrived in Europe around 1850. Here it gained notoriety under the trivial name belt leaf.
leaves
Clivia miniata develops basal leaves that are arranged in two rows. The leaves have a simple leaf blade and are sessile. The leaves are reminiscent of the shape of a sword. They can grow up to six centimeters wide, are dark green in color and have a shiny surface.
blossom
Clivia bear large single flowers that cluster together to form umbelliferous inflorescences. There are between 10 and 20 flowers at the end of an inflorescence stem. These are hermaphrodite and follow a threefold structure that leads to radial symmetry. Six bracts assume the show function. They have the same shape and are fused together at their base. The bright orange to red tones contrast with the yellow colored throat. Here are six stamens encircling a style with a three-column stigma.
The flowers are between six and ten centimeters in size. Clivia develop their inflorescence stems in autumn. They grow from the leaf axils and carry flower buds that open in spring.
fruit
At the end of the flowering period, round to oval berries develop from the individual flowers. They take on a red color as the fruit ripens. It can take up to a year for a fruit to ripen. Viviparous is typical of clivia. The seeds germinate while they are still in the ripe berries on the mother plant. The seed first develops a taproot that pierces through the pericarp. Then the development of the cotyledons begins.
growth
Clivia are herbaceous plants that last for several years. They grow between 45 and 70 centimeters high and develop underground rhizomes that serve as outlasting organs. They are thickened and fleshy and help the plant to store nutrients. An onion-like stem grows from the rhizome, which is formed from the leaf sheaths. Older specimens develop side shoots. They are a form of vegetative propagation.
use
Clivia miniata provides color accents indoors. It forms a harmonious contrast to exotic green plants such as dragon tree, golden fern or zebra herb. Clivia are suitable for conservatories, living rooms and bright entrance areas. They like to spend the summer outside.
Is clivia poisonous?
The fruits, leaves and flowers of the clivia are considered to be slightly poisonous. They contain alkaloids that have negative effects on the body. Sensitive people are prone to skin irritation when they come into contact with the plant parts. For safety, wear gloves when repotting or pruning the plant.
Possible symptoms:
As a first aid measure, plenty of tea or water should be drunk after consumption. If large amounts have been eaten, charcoal can help. Since similar symptoms of poisoning can occur in dogs and cats, you should have your pet examined by a veterinarian.
Which location is suitable?
Clivia miniata prefers a light location that is not in the blazing sun. The leaves are prone to sunburn in sunny places. An east-facing or west-facing window is ideal. Here the plant gets enough sun in the morning or evening. Clivia do not tolerate drafts.
Once you have found the perfect location, the bucket should not be rotated or relocated. It is important that the plant always faces the light with the same side. Otherwise their willingness to bloom will suffer. A small chalk line on the light side helps you find your way when you have to remove the plant pot from the windowsill.
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balcony
During the summer months, the clivia feel at home on balconies and roof terraces. They like the summer freshness when they get a sunny location. The place should be sheltered from the rain. Pay attention to the nightly temperatures in spring, because the plants do not tolerate sub-zero temperatures. You should not move the plant too often, as it does not tolerate the constant adjustments to changing conditions well.
What soil does the plant need?
Clivia prefer a mixture of soil and compost. Quality soil for potted plants is commercially available, which provides the plants with an ideal basis for good growth. The soil should be loose and consist of medium-sized particles. This ensures optimal permeability. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.
This is the ideal soil condition:
multiply clivia
Clivia can be propagated by seeds or children. It can take three to five years for a plant to develop fruit for the first time. The child propagation takes place via side shoots, which arise on the root ball of older plants. Cut off a piece of the root tuber with a side shoot and some leaves. The Kindel should be between 20 and 25 centimeters long. Use a sharp knife to make a clean cut. You can propagate the plant in this way immediately after the inflorescences have faded.
Plant the side shoots in a mixture of equal parts peat and sand. Place the planter in a bright location where there is no direct sunlight. Initially, the young plants are watered moderately. The soil should be slightly dry before watering. The young clivia are repotted for the first time as soon as the first roots push through the top layer of soil. Fill the new planter with compost. The plant is cared for like a fully grown specimen.
sowing
As soon as the fruits are ripe, they can be sown. You can recognize ripe berries by their dark red color. The seeds in them have often already started to germinate, which means that the chances of successful propagation are very high.
Pick the berries from the plant and carefully remove the pericarp. Press the seeds into a pot filled with potting soil. They should not be deeper than an inch into the substrate. The seed is loosely covered with substrate.
Make sure the soil stays evenly moist. To do this, cover the planter with a transparent film. Remove the foil for a few minutes every day to ensure air circulation. As a result, mold spores have no chance to settle. After about three weeks, the plants can be pricked out and transplanted into a larger container.
Clivia in the pot
Clivia are cultivated in tubs because they cannot adapt to outdoor conditions. They react sensitively to suboptimal site conditions and should therefore always be in the same place. Use a heavy planter, as clivia grow in width and become very heavy. Light plant pots tend to fall over quickly.
Water the clivia
Clivia miniata requires constantly moist conditions. Make sure the root ball is always moist. A lack of water or waterlogging will cause the leaves to fade and wrinkle. The plant tolerates drought better than too much moisture. Reduce watering in winter. During the dormant phase, the clivia does not mind if the root ball almost dries out. Only at the beginning of the new growth phase do you increase the watering again.
Fertilize Clivie properly
The first flower stalks appear between February and March. This development increases the nutrient requirements of the plants. From this point on, give your plant a liquid fertilizer over the irrigation water. Clivia enjoy regular fertilization, which takes place every two weeks. In September, you should slowly reduce and eventually stop nutrient intake. During this time, your clivia is preparing for the winter break, when it does not need fertilizer.
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Cut clivie properly
Once the inflorescences have withered, you should cut off the stems. The fruit development robs the plants of energy and has a negative effect on the next flowering. Cut off wilted plant parts regularly. Use a clean and sharp cutting tool for cutting measures. This reduces the risk of fungi or bacteria being transferred from the blade to the plant and penetrating the organism via the interface.
If your clivia has grown too large, a larger pruning is recommended. You should never cut back more than a third of the plant, otherwise it will not recover. The ideal time for this measure is before the hibernation.
repot
Transplanting causes stress for the plant. You should therefore not do this maintenance measure during the flowering period or during the winter dormant phase. Transplant clivia immediately after dormancy in February. After that, she has enough time to gather new strength before the flowers develop and to settle into the fresh soil. Alternatively, you can repot clivia in September or October before they go into hibernation. Repotting is necessary when the plant is affected by diseases or pests.
Cover the bottom of the pot with broken pottery, quartz sand (€15.85) or gravel. This layer acts as a drainage and ensures optimal water drainage. Fill the pot one third full with substrate and place the root ball in the pot. The gaps are then filled with soil up to two centimeters below the edge of the pot. Press the top layer lightly and give the plant enough water. If the substrate has settled in the first week, you can top up with some soil.
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hibernate
Clivia retire in the fall and spend the winter in a dormant state. This phase lasts about four months. During this time, the plant needs a cool location with temperatures between ten and twelve degrees Celsius. In October, place your clivia in an unheated room where it will find stable conditions through January.
Cellars, stairwells, conservatories or frost-free garages with south-facing windows are suitable as winter quarters. If the lighting conditions in the rooms are suboptimal, you can provide the plant with a light source with fluorescent tubes or plant lamps. Mount the lights 20 centimeters above the plant.
Diseases
Clivia are robust against pathogens. The most common types of damage are due to waterlogging, which results in root rot. You can recognize rotting roots when the stability of the plant decreases. Stems and leaves become soft and droop limply. The leaves turn yellow and dry up.
Take the plant out of the wet soil and free the roots from the remaining soil. Strongly soft and rotten roots are cut off. Clean and dry the rhizome with a clean cloth and let the entire plant dry for the next 24 hours. Temperatures of 22 degrees Celsius are ideal. Then plant the clivia in fresh substrate and water the plant only lightly. The plant should be watered sparingly for the next two weeks before returning to normal care.
pests
Clivia miniata is preferably attacked by mealybugs and mealybugs, which are classified as scale insects. The pests leave webs reminiscent of cotton balls and a sticky film on the leaf surface. They occur more often in winter when the air is very dry due to heating.
A solution of 30 grams of solid soft soap (€44.90) and hot water is suitable for fighting. Stir the water vigorously to completely dissolve the soap. Allow the solution to cool before pouring it into a spray bottle. All parts of the plant are sprayed, creating small droplets. Repeat the action the next day.
Clivia does not bloom
If the clivia does not bloom, various causes can come into question. The most common mistake that leads to a failure of the flower is a too warm location in winter. Clivia need a cold stimulus to open their flowers next spring. Lack of light can also result in buds not developing. Make sure the location has enough light in winter.
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tips
While most plants have to be repotted as soon as the tub gets too tight for them, the clivia benefits from the lack of space. Flower development is promoted by the reduced space available in the substrate. Repotting is therefore not necessary when the first roots grow out of the substrate. Repot the plant as little as possible.