Dendrobiums are among the most lush flowering ornamental orchids. We keep them on the window sill. We have put together everything you need to consider when cultivating and caring for yourself.

There are over 1000 species of Dendrobia

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossoms
  5. When is flowering time?
  6. Which location is suitable?
  7. What soil does the plant need?
  8. repot
  9. Pour dendrobium
  10. Fertilize dendrobium properly
  11. Cut dendrobium properly
  12. multiply dendrobium
  13. offshoot
  14. pests
  15. Dendrobium does not bloom
  16. Tip:
  17. sorts

    18. origin

    Dendrobiums belong to the plant family of orchids and are very diverse with around 1600 different species. Like most orchids, dendrobiums originally come mainly from tropical habitats in Southeast Asia from India to the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand. However, some species have also adapted to dry, cooler regions, for example in the high altitudes of the Himalayas or inland Australia.

    The species that we prefer to cultivate as ornamental plants in Central Europe are primarily hybrid species such as the grape orchid Dendrobium nobile or Dendrobium bigibbum. These species are best suited for the domestic window sill culture with cool overwintering.

    growth

    Typically, most Dendrobium species are epiphytes - they grow in their original areas of origin preferably on trees, occasionally also on rock. They cling to their host plant with numerous aerial roots - or to the substrate in the bucket - and depending on the species, they are only a few centimeters or up to one meter high. The grape orchid Dendrobium nobile reaches about 30 to 45 centimeters.

    Dendrobiums also belong to the sympodial orchids that form so-called pseudobulbs. These club-like or spindle-like thickening shoots serve as water and nutrient storage for the plant

    To remember:

    • Dendrobiums are epiphytes - they originally grow on trees
    • In this country cultivated hybrids about 30-45 cm high
    • form sympodial pseudobulbs for nutrient and water storage

    leaves

    The leaves of Dendrobium usually have a typical orchid-like, oval to lanceolate shape and a leathery-fleshy consistency. They are alternately attached to the stem and are medium green in colour. At the end of the growing season, the leaves are shed.

    blossoms

    The most important part of dendrobiums for the ornamental gardener is of course the flower. This is particularly rich in this orchid species. The many individual flowers unfold both laterally and at the ends of the biennial, leafless pseudobulbs, resulting in a whole, panicle-like inflorescence. They sit on short stems in the leaf axils. In terms of morphology, the dendrobium flowers vary depending on the species, but are usually typical of orchids with three sepals, two petals and a sixth petal shaped like a lip.

    A dendrobium orchid can form around 20 to 50 individual flowers, which often smell very pleasant.

    The flower characteristics at a glance:

    • Appear in large numbers along the previous year's pseudobulbs
    • form a lush panicle
    • Orchid-like morphology of the individual flowers
    • often very pleasant scent

    When is flowering time?

    The dendrobium orchid produces profuse blooms during the growing season between spring and autumn. If the ambient temperature is not too warm, the flowers last for a pleasantly long time, around 3 to 6 weeks.

    Which location is suitable?

    Dendrobiums need a bright location, but should not be exposed to direct sunlight. You can also put them outside in summer, but preferably under a light canopy on the terrace or balcony. Even in winter, the denrdobia orchid should be bright.

    With the temperature, however, a seasonal change is required. The plant should be kept warm throughout the summer, preferably from 20°C upwards. Cooling down is necessary during the winter dormancy period, not only for the vegetative pause, but also to induce profuse flowering by the switch to warmer temperatures in spring. The temperature in the winter quarters should be between about 10 and 17°C.

    The location requirements in keywords:

    • warm and bright in summer
    • cool and light in winter
    • protect from direct sunlight

    What soil does the plant need?

    As an epiphyte, the dendrobium orchid prefers a loose bark substrate to which it can cling with its aerial roots and which provides them with enough air and light. But you can also put them in a substrate made of orchid soil. Here, however, you should definitely work in an effective drainage layer and ensure good drainage, for example with a convex potsherd over the lower pot hole. To give new shoots space to grow, it is best to place the orchid in the pot so that the older shoots are on the outside.

    repot

    Only repot a dendrobium orchid if it is absolutely necessary, i.e. if it is visibly too cramped in the pot or if the substrate is simply too old and starting to be too modern. In general, however, the plant copes very well with constriction at its base. Accordingly, do not choose a much larger pot for moving. The right time for repotting is spring, when the orchid develops new pseudobulbs. But repotting is also possible until autumn. In winter, however, you should leave the plant alone.
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    Pour dendrobium

    You should water the dendrobium orchid daily from spring until the pseudobulbs have fully developed. But be careful not to give too much water at once, so that the substrate can always dry completely in between. With too much water, the aerial roots can easily rot, the bulbs die and the leaves are shed.

    Use water that is as low in lime as possible, possibly from a rain barrel. When the pseudobulbs mature, they can fully perform their water-storage role, so you don't necessarily need to water as often.

    As a tropical plant, the dendrobium orchid also likes a fine misty spray shower or two.

    Casting practice at a glance

    • water daily from spring during the development phase of the bulbs
    • Pay careful attention to the amount - always allow the substrate to dry between watering
    • be sure to use low-lime water

    Fertilize dendrobium properly

    You can fertilize the dendrobium orchid moderately during the vegetation phase. You should keep intervals of about two to three weeks - the nutrient requirements of dendrobiums are rather low. Use a low concentration liquid fertilizer. From autumn you should gradually phase out the fertilization - in winter, if at all, you fertilize very sparingly.

    Cut dendrobium properly

    A pruning is not necessary for dendrobiums. You don't even have to cut off old leaves yourself, they fall off by themselves or can be plucked off carefully. If it bothers you, you can use scissors to remove an old, faded shoot.
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    multiply dendrobium

    child

    Dendrobiums are child-forming plants - so the question of the propagation method is already answered. The Kindel form on the shoot eyes of the pseudobulbs, occasionally also from the stalks of the flowers. You should let the children grow on the mother plant for as long as possible so that they can gather enough strength of their own and develop roots of around 5 cm in length. It is best to let it mature for a whole year. The condition of the bulb also indicates that detachment and an independent life of the child is possible: if it turns yellow and begins to dry out, it has fulfilled its task and the child is mature.

    However, you should only separate it from the mother plant if it is easy. To do this, try to rotate it carefully. If the child does not come off easily, cut it off along with a piece of the bulb and put it in its own planter with orchid soil.

    It often takes about a year for the young plant to show its first flowers.

    division

    Dendrobiums can also be propagated by rhizome division. Propagation by children is preferable to this method. If you cut off a piece of the rhizome, make sure that the section has at least 4 pseudobulbs. Place the section in a planter with orchid soil and keep it evenly but sparingly moist. After sprouting, continue caring for the plant in a species-appropriate manner. When she is big enough, place her in a round mulch substrate.

    offshoot

    Offshoots are obtained from Dendrobium in the form of Kindel. Read the “Propagation” section to learn how to remove and grow them from the mother plant.
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    pests

    As with orchids in general, dendrobiums are somewhat susceptible to any parasites that are attracted to dry conditions. These include spider mites and mealybugs in particular.

    spider mites

    You can see spider mites with the naked eye. The sucking animals have a body length of about 0.3 to 0.8 millimeters and can have a reddish to orange or yellowish-green color. But they betray themselves even more clearly through their fine webs, with which they cover the affected plant. The females lay their larvae on the underside of the leaves.

    If your Dendrobium orchid is infested with spider mites, you can first tackle the parasites with water: Spray the plant with a strong jet of water. This will wash away most of the mites. It is then advisable to enclose the entire orchid under a foil bag. In the arid, humid climate, the pests usually die within a week.

    Mealybug

    Mealybugs are even larger than spider mites and secrete a waxy substance on the infested plant, which they coat in woolly puffs. This also makes them easy to spot. The lice suck on almost all parts of the orchid, greatly weakening it. So take countermeasures as soon as possible.

    First you should remove the affected parts of the plant. If possible, isolate the orchid from your other indoor plants. You can then apply a spray treatment made from a mixture of water, alcohol and curd soap. There should be 15 ml of spirit and curd soap in each liter of water. Repeat the spray treatment regularly for about 2 to 3 days.

    prevention

    The best way to prevent both spider mites and mealybugs is to avoid exposing the dendrobium orchid to excessively dry heating air. You should spray them regularly with the water disperser, especially during the heating period. General good care also makes the plant less susceptible.

    Dendrobium does not bloom

    If you wait in vain for your dendrobium orchid to flower, you have most likely overwintered it too warm. In order to produce a flower, the plant needs a temperature stimulus - you provide it by wintering it in a cool place and placing it in a warm place from spring. The temperature in the winter quarters should be around 15°C - when moving to the summer quarters it should rise to at least 20°C.
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    Tip:

    If you want to extend the flowering period of your Dendrobium orchid, place it a little colder again immediately after the first flowers have opened, but not below 15°C. This will induce a more persistent bud presence.

    sorts

    *Dendrobium nobile*:
    This cultivar is a hybrid and one of the most common of the Dendrobiums. And also within the ornamental orchids in general it is one of the most popular variants. With its large, artistic flowers, it is not only a particularly beautiful ornament, but also comparatively easy to care for, so that it is also suitable for orchid beginners.

    The flowers of the Dendrobium nobile appear in a typical, zygomorphic orchid manner with an artfully curved labial petal over the sepals and petals. With their multicolored shades of white and violet to pink, they offer a very decorative sight. The flowers can appear in very early spring from February or in late spring to early summer. A second period of dormancy in cooler temperatures can usually induce a second flowering.

    The Dendrobium nobile needs an orchid substrate made of bark mulch that is as loose as possible and should be watered sparingly, but sprayed with water all the more. The variety grows between 10 and 70 centimeters high.

    *Dendrobium bigibbum*:
    This hybrid is also quite common and delights with its rich blooms of lilac to pink or, more rarely, bluish flowers. With a height of between 20 and 80 centimetres, the Dendrobium bigibbum is a little taller than the D. nobile. It forms cylindrical pseudobulbs, each of which has 3 to 5 green, sometimes violet leaves and up to 20 individual flowers between March and June. The shape of the flower is morphologically structured like that of the D. Nobile.

    The D. bigibbum likes a very bright spot and should only be watered minimally. Regarding the ambient temperature, she likes it a little cooler.

    *Dendrobium amabile*:
    This flowering size variety flowers with relatively flat, open flowers with a quite stately size of 4 to 5 cm in diameter. With their porcelain-white color and yolk-yellow centre, they are a pretty eye-catcher. Since they are also formed in large numbers, very lush panicles of flowers develop on the stems. The flowering time is relatively late between April and August.

    The Dendrobium amabile reaches a moderate height of 40 to 50 centimeters. Since it originally comes from altitudes of up to 1200 meters in China and Vietnam, it needs a moderately warm ambient temperature and not too much water. It doesn't need to be sprayed that much. Their light requirement is also rather moderate.

    *Dendrobium kingianum*:
    This variety delights with its delicate, small flowers in shades of white to pink that appear very late in the growing season, between August and October. A moderate number of 2 to 15 individual flowers unfold on a panicle. With a total height of the pseudobulbs of only 5 to 30 centimeters, the Dendrobium kingianum is also one of the smaller dendrobiums.

Category:

Indoor plants