- The right cut in the first year
- Education in the second year
- The final cut in the third year
- The maintenance cut from the fourth year
Not every garden has enough space for a strong climbing plant that grows several meters high, but you don't have to do without a wisteria straight away. You can raise it as a high trunk or buy it commercially as a trunk.

The right cut in the first year
You need a young strong plant if you want to grow a wisteria as a standard. Choose the strongest shoot as the main shoot, shorten it by about a third and support the shoot with a stick. This should later become a strong tribe. All other shoots can be cut off.
Education in the second year
In the second year you can decide how big you want your wisteria to be and shorten the main shoot accordingly. The side shoots now remain at a length of three to five eyes.
The final cut in the third year
Now it's time for your wisteria to get its final shape. Below the desired crown, consistently cut off all side shoots close to the trunk. Within the crown, shorten the shoots again to about three to five eyes.
The maintenance cut from the fourth year
From around year four, prune your standard wisteria in the same way as one growing on a pergola or other trellis. In the spring, thin out the plant so that it has plenty of vigor to set new buds. In late summer or autumn, cut back the blooming shoots. In this way you ensure a rich abundance of flowers.
The essentials in brief:
- Buy a standard tree or start pruning in the first year
- can also be cultivated in a bucket
- is hardy
- 1st year: Shorten the main shoot by a third, support it with a stick, cut off side shoots
- 2nd year: Main shoot to desired height, shorten side shoots to 3 to 5 eyes
- 3rd year: consistently cut off all side shoots below the desired crown, shorten to 3 to 5 eyes within
- from the 4th year: normal maintenance cut
tips
Growing and cutting a wisteria tree yourself requires a lot of patience and work, but it is not only financially worthwhile.