In the traditional vegetable garden, a wide, well paved main path runs in the middle between the rows of beds. This connects the kitchen garden with the other parts of the garden as well as the house and/or the garden shed. Between the beds, on the other hand, narrow side or care paths run, which should enable or facilitate garden care. So that you can optimally supply every vegetable patch, the paths must also be planned correctly.
Mulch garden paths are easy to lay out and smell good
Optimally plan routes
Standard vegetable beds are usually around 100 to 120 centimeters wide, 150 to 200 centimeters long and rectangular. These dimensions ensure that the gardener can easily reach every corner of the bed. The beds are tended from a narrow tending path that only needs to be between 30 and 40 centimeters wide. Most of the time, the path is as wide as the gardener's two feet placed side by side, as he simply tramples the path down in the spring as needed. The main path, on the other hand, should be at least 90 to 120 centimeters wide to create enough freedom of movement for a wheelbarrow or sack truck and space to place harvest baskets or fertilizer sacks.
Lay out main and side routes correctly
In addition to the main path and the care paths between the beds, it is also advisable to create connecting passages that create access to the compost heap, tool shed or greenhouse, for example. These paths only need to be between 60 and 80 centimeters wide.
fix main roads
Main paths are best paved with slabs, paving stones or gravel or crushed stone. These path surfaces should also be laid with a 20 to 30 centimeter thick substructure (as a drainage and leveling layer) made of crushed stone or coarse gravel. Tamp the substructure as firmly as possible so that the covering cannot slip. In the case of slabs or plaster, there is an additional layer of sand or fine grit about five centimeters thick; the ground must therefore be excavated to a correspondingly deep level. On gravel and gravel paths, a root protection fleece over the substructure can prevent the growth of weeds. The coverings should be laid with a slight incline on both sides so that later there are no puddles on the paths.
Byways and maintenance paths
A width of 30 to 40 centimeters is sufficient for the side paths between the beds. They simply trample down these paths or cover them with bark mulch, which, however, needs to be renewed more frequently. Narrow step gratings made of wood, plastic or metal have proven particularly effective. A gravel or crushed stone cover requires a little more effort than on the main paths.
tips
Beds with unpaved paths in particular benefit from a low bed edging. This ensures that the fertile soil remains within the bed areas and weeds penetrate less easily.