When azaleas set the scene in bog beds or pots, cutting care causes many gardeners a headache. This tutorial tries to clear all gardening stumbling blocks out of the way. Find out here when and how to properly prune alpine roses.

Azaleas do not need regular pruning

Table of Contents

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  1. cutting occasions
  2. When is the best time?
  3. Clean up withered leaves
  4. topiary
  5. taper cut
  6. Cutting technique on tenons
  7. cutting tool
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Occasions for an Azalea Pruning

    Azaleas are typical spring bloomers that bud in the summer of the previous year. Characteristic of the ornamental shrubs is a stable framework that forms without horticultural intervention. A build-up cut is therefore not part of the cut care. As long as an alpine rose is compact and full of flowers, it does not require regular pruning, apart from annual flower care. The following table summarizes the conditions under which azaleas should still be cut:

    cut option aim period/occasion
    break out withered Formation of new flower buds for the next year in every year
    topiary Cut back shoots protruding from the mould if necessary, not before the 5th year
    taper cut Eliminate baldness, promote willingness to bloom with progressive bareness on old bushes

    When is the best time?

    Azaleas bud after flowering. This growth behavior leaves little room for a cut date. To shorten individual shoots or to rejuvenate the ornamental shrub, choose a mild day in spring before they sprout. Depending on the variety, fresh sprouting often only starts after a year or later at the interface. In garden practice it has been found that pruning dates in autumn or winter are punished with a total loss of the pruned shoots or the entire alpine rose. Only the flowers are cared for in June, immediately after the end of the flowering period.

    Clean up withered things properly - that's how it works

    Scissors and saws stay in the tool shed for the annual flower care on azaleas. When the floral fairy tale of spring draws to a close, the first buds are already waiting below the withered blossoms. You already have the necessary tool with you in the form of your fingers. How to properly clean faded azaleas:

    • Grasp the short piece of shoot below a withered flower between index finger and thumb
    • Break away or snip off the dead inflorescence

    As shown in the figure below, bud bases, leaves or shoots located below the withered inflorescence should not be damaged. The sooner you clean off all that has faded on your azaleas, the easier it will be.

    Withered azalea flowers are broken off or snapped off with the fingertips. This clears the way for buds that have already been created for the next flowering period.

    Cutting azaleas optionally - instructions for topiary

    It happens that individual branches are bare or protrude from the azalea bush and make it appear sparse. Cut back these shoots in the spring so that the cut leaves no gaps that will only close years later. How to do it right:

    • Cut back azalea branches to a 4-5 centimeter small cone with a leaf on the side
    • Result: Leaf supplies the cone so that it does not dry out
    • Ideal result: new shoots start in the following year

    If disturbing shoots only catch your eye in the middle of the flowering period, you can still cut them back later. The figure below shows the cutting process. A prerequisite for good success is that you cut on cones with a side blade and that it is a single branch.

    If branches that are too long disturb the harmonious shape, shorten the shoots before flowering. Leave a small cone with a leaf on the side to encourage new growth.

    Eliminate baldness with a rejuvenation cut - this is how it works

    Azaleas grow compact and floriferous for many years. Nevertheless, as they get older they can form gaps and become bald from below. That's no reason to grub up a previously busy blooming alpine rose. With a rejuvenating pruning, you effectively stimulate leaf growth and flowering. By spreading the radical pruning action over several stages, you reduce the stress on an aging azalea. How to proceed correctly step by step:

    • First stage: Half of all senile shoots derive from branching inside the bush
    • Second stage: Second half of the shoots also derive to a lower-lying branch

    The figure below illustrates the correct incision. Position the saw at a fork in such a way that a 5 cm long pin remains. In contrast to the topiary, the blade for supplying the cone is missing at this point. As a result, new growth can take some time. So give a rejuvenated azalea a helping hand with an extra dose of fertilizer. A special fertilizer NPK 14+7+14 for rhododendrons is well suited for a vital growth momentum. Distribute 100 grams per square meter, water generously and cover the fertilizer with a 3 centimeter layer of rhododendron soil or ericaceous soil.

    A dead azalea is rejuvenated in two stages. In February of the first year, half of all shoots are diverted to a branch with a small cone. In February of the second year, the other half of the bush is rejuvenated. In the summer of the third year, the new shoots of the cones stop. Dried cone remains can be removed.

    Cutting with tenons - how to do it right

    In the tutorial, the special cutting technique that is crucial for azaleas is pointed out at a suitable point. The cut with a small cone and side shoot is rare in the care of trees. As a rule, cut your shrubs and tree canopy close to a bud or to astring to maintain vigor and prevent infection. Therefore, the tutorial at this point is once again devoted to the correct cutting technique for shaping and tapering cuts on azaleas. How to do it right:

    • When cutting in the leafy shoot area: set the scissors at a distance of 5 centimeters from a lateral leaf
    • When cutting in the bare branch area: Position the saw 5 centimeters away from a branch
    • Leave the cones in place until the new shoots are strong enough

    The cones dry back over time. If the dried tissue does not fall off by itself, you can remove the withered pieces.

    Tips on the right tool

    The right tool is one of the key factors in a successful azalea pruning. The right pair of scissors and saws should be at hand for every shoot strength and type of cut. When purchasing, make sure that it is of good quality so that you can handle the cutting tool comfortably and take it apart easily for maintenance and cleaning work. Although most azalea varieties remain small and reach a maximum height of 150 centimeters, thick branches can form over time. The following equipment for cutting care is recommended:

    • Knives with straight blades or knives with curved blades
    • Hand shears for all branches up to 2 cm thick
    • Pruning shears for shoots from 2 to 4 cm in diameter
    • Sword or hacksaw for branches from 4 cm

    When purchasing, do not be confused by the extensive range of models, but use the variety to choose the perfect tool for your individual needs. There are scissors for left- and right-handers, large and small hands, and with bypass or anvil mechanisms.

    From our point of view, bypass shears are better suited for cutting azaleas because they work with two sharp blades so that shoots cannot be crushed. Furthermore, we advocate sword saws, as they leave smooth wound edges. Pruning shears are only of concern if you are cultivating a variety of the azalea species Rhododendron luteum. This can be as tall as a man in the ideal location, so the longer reach of a pruning shears is an advantage and makes climbing on the ladder superfluous.

    Prepare the cutting tool - you should pay attention to this

    Before each cut, check whether the scissor gear is moving. Blades and anvil must not have any play. If necessary, tighten the locking screw, which high-quality scissors have. It is important to note that you only work with sharp blades and saw blades. Blunt tools cause frayed edges of wounds, which are an ideal target for pathogens and pests. You can sharpen scissor blades yourself or have them sharpened by a specialist. Dull saw blades must be replaced, so a spare blade should be on hand.

    Meticulous cleanliness is also important for expert azalea pruning. Clean your tool after each use. Before the next cut, disinfect blades and saw blades with high-proof alcohol. One of the most common causes of disease and pest spread is contaminated cutting tools.

    frequently asked Questions

    What is the difference between azaleas and rhododendrons?

    From a botanical point of view, the species and varieties of azaleas belong to the genus of rhododendrons. This fact finds expression in the botanical names. This is what botanists call the Japanese azalea Rhododendron japonicum. The notable difference is that azaleas thrive as deciduous or at least semi-evergreen shrubs, while rhododendrons wear their foliage year-round. Visually, garden azaleas differ from rhododendrons in that they have brighter flower colors and an upright, more taut habit.

    Do azaleas get pruned after transplanting?

    No, unlike most garden shrubs, azaleas are not cut back after a change of location. Like all rhododendron species, azaleas do not exert the necessary root pressure after transplanting to sprout again from old wood. So that the flowering bushes regenerate quickly, choose a date between the beginning of March and mid-May. Please make sure to dig up as much of the root volume as possible and put it in the ground at the new location.

    Can the clippings be used as cuttings?

    Azaleas are easy to propagate from cuttings. The chances of a successful course are highest in the period from mid-July to early September, when the time window for a cut is also open. It is important to note that you take azalea cuttings in dry weather. Head or shoot cuttings with a length of five to ten centimeters are perfect. Please use a heatable mini greenhouse and acidic, lime-free growth substrate.

    Are azaleas poisonous?

    All azaleas contain toxins that can cause poisoning if consumed intentionally or unintentionally. Just one leaf, bud or flower is enough to cause cramps, nausea and vomiting in children, sensitive adults and animals. Ingestion of large amounts can cause slow heartbeat, shortness of breath, coma or death. Alpine roses are not recommended for cultivation in a family garden with small children and pets.

    A storm severely damaged the azalea on one side - what to do?

    If azaleas are damaged on one side, it is not enough to take them back down to the undamaged areas. In order for the flowering shrub to regenerate evenly after storm damage, the balance within the crown must be maintained. In technical jargon, this ideal state is referred to as the juice scale. In concrete terms, this means that the shoots on the undamaged side of the bush should be cut back just as far as on the damaged side.

    Why do individual azalea buds die before flowering?

    This is a typical symptom of a fungal attack caused by the rhododendron plant hopper. In September, the green-orange colored females lay their eggs in the buds. During this process, the insects transmit a fungus that kills rhododendron and azalea buds. Cut off brown, wilted buds below the first pair of leaves and dispose of the clippings in the household waste. As a preventive measure, you can hang yellow boards in your azaleas in August and September to intercept flying cicadas.

    The 3 most common pruning errors on azaleas

    If the cut leaves a deformed or unwilling azalea, the gardener has made a mistake. The following table summarizes the 3 most common causes and their consequences with tips for prevention:

    error result prevention
    wrong cutting time failure of the flower Cut individual shoots in spring
    no flower care declining willingness to bloom Rinse faded flowers regularly
    Shoots cut off and not derived on cones holey, uneven growth always derive on 5 cm small cones
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    tips

    Indoor azaleas, even under ideal conditions, rarely please the gardener for more than a winter or two. Indian azaleas (Rhododendron simsii), the most common potted azaleas in garden centers, have good prospects for a magnificent flowering period between October and April. Ideally, indoor azaleas spend the summer in a cool, shady spot in the garden, where they are watered regularly and sprayed with soft water. Pruning care is no different from garden azaleas, except for the choice of date, taking into account the winter flowering period.

Category:

Indoor plants