It is a must for orchid lovers: the Cattleya fascinates with its large, colorful flowers in numerous different tones. However, the approximately 45 species kept in indoor culture and their hybrids all require an increased level of attention so that they can fully develop their beauty and you can enjoy them for a long time.

The Cattleya is a particularly beautiful orchid

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. origin and distribution
  2. appearance and growth
  3. leaves
  4. flowering and flowering time
  5. toxicity
  6. Which location is suitable?
  7. substrate
  8. plant and repot
  9. Water cattleya
  10. Fertilize Cattleya properly
  11. Cut Cattleya properly
  12. Breed Cattleya
  13. hibernate
  14. diseases and pests
  15. species and varieties

    16. origin and distribution

    Cattleya orchids are native to the tropical rainforests of South America, where they grow either epiphytically (i.e. tree-dwelling) or lithophytically (i.e. on rocks). In the 19th century, the genus was the first of the large family of exotic orchids (Orchidaceae) to reach Europe. They soon became very popular here, so that in aristocratic circles it was considered chic to wear a cattleya flower in your buttonhole. The genus is named after William Cattley, an English collector of orchids. In 1818 he was the first to successfully cultivate the beautiful exotic plant in Europe.

    appearance and growth

    The growth form of the Cattleya orchid is characteristic of many types of orchids that occur in nature as epiphytic plants and thus manage almost entirely without soil. The base is a creeping rhizome, from which thickened shoots often arise during the growing season. This thickening, known in technical terms as a pseudobulbus, serves the plant as a storage for water and nutrients. Also typical of the genus is the sympodial growth habit, in which new shoots always develop at the base of the old, fully grown ones. Cattleya orchids reach an average height of around 25 centimeters.

    leaves

    The one or two fleshy, leathery leaves sit at the upper end of the thickened stem axis, the pseudobulb. The number of leaves on the Cattleya depends on the species. Botanists distinguish between single-leaved (unifoliate) and two-leaved (bifoliate) Cattleya orchids. Typically, the leaves have a broad, elliptical to lanceolate shape.

    flowering and flowering time

    The very large flowers of the cattleya orchid usually appear in either spring or autumn. They last for several weeks to months before they fade, but due to their size and weight, they need to be tied up. Otherwise the flowering shoots could snap or even break off. While the large-flowered species usually develop no more than four flowers per stem, the small-flowered varieties and hybrids have up to 14 or, as with the Cattleya guatemalense, even up to 20. Cattleya orchids are primarily through popular for their large color spectrum, ranging from red and pink to brown, yellow and orange to various tones of white. Many varieties are also multicolored or spotted. In addition, some variants inspire with their intense, sweet-spicy scent, for example the popular Cattleya intermedia.

    toxicity

    The Cattleya orchid is considered non-toxic, and there are no known indications of possible intolerance.

    Which location is suitable?

    The Exotic Cattleya Orchid is definitely not a houseplant for beginners. The sensitive flowers should be kept at a constant temperature of 20 °C and a high humidity of at least 50 percent, ideally 80 percent. With regard to the light intensity, all Cattleya species need a very bright location, which can even be in full sun after a short acclimatization period. The flowers are particularly beautiful if the plant is allowed to stand in a south-facing window from September to May - only here does it get enough light in the dark season. If it is too dark for the Cattleya - which applies to the whole year - it only forms empty leaf sheaths, so that there is no flowering.

    substrate

    In nature, cattleya orchids, as epiphytes, have little or no contact with soil. For this reason, commercially available, possibly pre-fertilized, potting soil is completely unsuitable for cultivating the sensitive plants. Instead, the orchids feel most comfortable in coarse pine or pine bark, which you can use with some sphagnum (if possible, only use disinfected material from specialist shops and not one that you have collected in the forest!), perlite (€37.51) and a few horn shavings ( €32.93) / mix horn meal.

    Alternatively, you can purchase special orchid substrate (€8.00) in the garden store, with many orchid retailers offering specially mixed Cattleya soil for the needs of Cattleya orchids.

    plant and repot

    Transplant the cattleya orchid into a larger pot about every two to three years, ideally using a special, transparent orchid pot. Although these are quite expensive at a purchase price of at least ten euros, they perfectly meet the special needs of epiphytic plants. They ensure that the long roots get enough light and air, can stretch out to the sides and at the same time prevent waterlogging - the number one cause of death for orchids - from occurring.

    And this is how it is planted:

    • Take the cattleya orchid out of the pot.
    • If necessary, immerse them in a water bath, then the roots can be loosened more easily.
    • Disinfect a pair of sharp scissors or a knife.
    • Cut off old, rotten roots and old bulbs without roots or leaves.
    • Remove old pieces of substrate.
    • Fill the bottom of the pot with some orchid substrate.
    • Place the orchid in the middle.
    • Fill in the remaining substrate, filling in the spaces between the roots.
    • However, do not injure roots.

    The Cattleya then has to recover from this stress and may look a little "offended" for the next two weeks. If possible, leave them alone and just spray them with a little water from time to time.

    Regarding the ideal date for repotting, this depends on the flowering time of the plant: autumn-flowering Cattleya get fresh substrate and a new pot in spring, spring-flowering plants in autumn.

    Water cattleya

    Cattleya orchids require a lot of water during their flowering period and also dry out quickly. Two waterings a week make sense at this point, with plenty of water each time so that the water flows out of the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Between the individual waterings, the substrate should feel almost dry, but not dry out completely. Experienced orchid gardeners use the weighing method to determine the optimal watering time: the pot and plant are watered immediately after watering, because that is when it is the heaviest. After about three to four days it is weighed again, then the pot should weigh significantly less. If this is not the case, it does not have to be watered yet. Incidentally, this also applies if the substrate already feels fairly dry.

    Outside the flowering period, however, the Cattleya needs much less water. Now she can survive for two to three weeks without any watering. Some orchid owners don't even water their Cattleya at all over the winter months.

    Fertilize Cattleya properly

    As epiphytes, cattleya orchids are used to a nutrient-poor environment. Like all orchids, they are particularly sensitive to salt. On the other hand, the formation of the large flowers costs the plant a lot of energy, which has to be replenished with fertilization. If possible, use a liquid orchid fertilizer that you dose only half as much as recommended by the manufacturer. You administer this every two weeks together with the irrigation water.

    Cut Cattleya properly

    Aside from completely removing faded flower stalks, pruning is not necessary for Cattleya orchids.

    Breed Cattleya

    Large specimens of Cattleya orchids can be easily propagated by dividing the rhizome. This is best done together with the repotting of the plant, which is due anyway. Using a sharp and sanitized knife or scissors, separate the rhizome into several sections, each with at least three bulbs. Then plant the pieces separately in new pots.

    hibernate

    When the flowers of the cattleya orchid wilt, the leaves often begin to wilt as well. As a rule, this is not a sign of an illness, but a completely normal process: the flower shows in this way that it is now going into the dormant phase. This does not necessarily take place during the winter months, but depends on the flowering period of the Cattleya. Remove fallen and wilted leaves and flowers to prevent pathogens or pests from settling there. Also keep the plant cooler than usual at around 15 °C for a few weeks, water it less and stop fertilizing. As soon as the first new shoot appears, the Cattleya orchid ends its dormant period all by itself. Now take care of them as usual.

    diseases and pests

    Improper care and unsuitable site conditions make Cattleya orchids susceptible to various diseases or pest infestation. The beautiful houseplants die particularly often because they are literally watered to death. Therefore, be meticulous about not watering too much and not letting waterlogging occur in the first place.

    Also problematic is the so-called black rot, which primarily attacks the young orchid shoots. Within a very short time they turn black and rot. Sometimes you can still save the plant by cutting away the diseased parts generously - far into the healthy tissue - and dusting the cut points with charcoal powder.

    If the Cattleya is in an unfavorable location, uninvited pests such as thrips, spider mites (“red spider”) or scale insects often appear.

    tips

    Place the Cattleya in a bright, but not directly shady place outside during the summer months.

    species and varieties

    Cattleya orchids come in many shapes and colors, with various hybrids being sold in addition to the numerous species. We present some of the most beautiful varieties here:

    • Cattleya labiata: intensely fragrant flower clusters in many colors, autumn flowering
    • Cattleya bowringiana: purple to pink, shiny flowers, autumn flowering
    • Cattleya cuttata: dark red spotted flowers, bloom between August and October
    • Cattleya aurantiaca: orange flowers, spring flowering
    • Cattleya 'Williette Wong': large, bright yellow flowers, hybrid
    • Cattleya 'Floweringsize': very large flowers in different shades of blue, hybrid
    • Cattleya 'Chia Lin': deep pink flowers with shaded lip, hybrid
    • Cattleya 'Angel Kiss': bright orange flowers, hybrid

Category:

Vegetable garden