Clematis inspire with an exuberant variety of species. The furious selection ranges from early-blooming to summer-blooming to twice-blooming clematis. Care could be so easy if there weren't different dates and cuts to be observed for pruning. Don't let yourself be unsettled any longer. This tutorial will make you familiar with all types of cuts at the right time.

When to prune the clematis depends on the variety

Table of Contents

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  1. All types of cuts and dates
  2. plant cutting
  3. Maintenance cut early bloomers
  4. Rejuvenation cut early bloomers
  5. Conservation cut summer bloomers
  6. Rejuvenation cut summer bloomers
  7. Maintenance cut twice flowering
  8. Rejuvenation pruning twice flowering
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. Types of cuts and dates at a glance

    An exuberant variety of magnificent clematis species and varieties makes pruning appear to be a complicated undertaking. In fact, some clematis are seldom or little pruned, while others require radical pruning. An important point of reference for pruning time and procedure is the flowering time. The following table includes all important types of cuts with recommended dates for the most popular clematis.

    Clematis flowering season cut type best appointment cut type best appointment cut type best appointment
    Early flowering species plant cutting after planting Thinning and maintenance cut after flowering in May/June taper cut Beginning of November to end of February
    Summer flowering species plant cutting after planting/in the following spring maintenance cut November to January taper cut November to January
    Twice flowering species plant cutting after planting/in the following spring maintenance cut November to January and in June taper cut at 5-year intervals in November/December

    Experienced clematis gardeners will notice the shift in dates for summer and twice-flowering species. Until a few years ago, February was considered the ideal time for maintenance pruning. In the course of global warming, experienced experts advocate cutting the clematis species mentioned between November and January. Mild winter climate leads to early sprouting, which falls victim to the scissors in February.

    background

    The legislature has the final say in the choice of date

    The termination of strong cutbacks to winter time is not based solely on progressive global warming. Since the amendment of the Federal Nature Conservation Act in 2010, it has been forbidden to radically cut trees and shrubs of all kinds between March 1st and September 30th. The reason for the provision is the protection of wild animals such as breeding birds. During the summer grace period, light grooming cuts may be carried out, provided that no animals are disturbed or driven away by the measure. Violators face fines of up to 50,000 euros to enforce the provision.

    Plant pruning - pruning applies to all Clematis species

    Regardless of the time of planting or the later flowering times, you should overcome all scruples and subject your clematis to a vigorous pruning. The purpose of the pruning measure is a dense branching at the base of the young plant, which can only be made up for by later pruning as part of a radical rejuvenation. This is how expert pruning succeeds on all types of clematis:

    • The best time is immediately after planting
    • Cut back all shoots to 20 or 30 centimeters above the ground
    • Measure the cutting height so that a pair of buds remain

    If you put a blooming clematis in the ground as a container plant in summer, please make up for the pruning in November or December. The last date to benefit from the advantages of the growth pruning is in February/March after the year of planting. In the case of spring-flowering clematis, pruning takes place at the expense of the next flowering period. However, we recommend that you forego the few flowers in favor of a long-lasting, richly branched, premium quality clematis.

    The pruning procedure applies to all Clematis species. Plant a young plant so deep that a pair of buds are in the ground. Then cut back all the shoots except for a pair of buds above the ground.

    background

    Plant pruning is based on the botanical law of growth

    Are you wondering why a clematis's reaction to pruning is predictable? The reason is the law of growth of peak production, which enables a reliable forecast. The central statement consists in the knowledge that a top bud sprout disproportionately stronger than deeper buds. The cause is the intensive flow of sap towards the top of the plant in order to force growth towards the light. If the top bud falls off, the excess sap flow is distributed to the remaining buds. The eyes that are highest in each case are treated preferentially. Since the pruning leaves a single pair of buds on clematis, the sap pressure is concentrated at this point and causes sustained budding at the base of the bush.

    Cut early bloomers little - instructions maintenance cut

    Popular species such as alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) or mountain clematis (Clematis montana) and their varieties as well as most wild species put on their flowers in spring. The plants planted the buds for the floral festival the previous year, often immediately after the flowering period. Pruning is tricky on early flowering clematis because it could destroy the flowering plants. Since clematis in this category naturally remain vital for many years, pruning is not part of the regular care program anyway. If the magnificent specimens grow too much for you, bloom sparsely or bare, a maintenance cut awakens the floral spirits. How to do it right:

    • The best time is when they are withering, by June at the latest
    • Cut back overly long, bare or damaged shoots by a third or half
    • Cut above an outward facing pair of eyes
    • Cut off dead branches at the base

    The subsequent time window is sufficient for strong growth and the budding for the next year. As shown in the figure below, ideally you should not cut back all the shoots equally, but limit the scope to what is absolutely necessary.

    With a framework of 5 to 7 lower shoots, your garden marshmallow is well prepared for a future full of flowers. Ideally, 4 to 6 skeletal shoots are distributed around a higher central shoot. The valuable blossom wood arises from the shoots on the ground every year.

    Rejuvenate early bloomers - when and how to do it right

    An early-blooming clematis does not protect its natural vitality from floral signs of aging. When the branches grow old, bare from below and every single blossom is a sensation, you can no longer avoid a rejuvenation cut. How to revitalize with scissors and saw:

    • The best time is between November and January
    • Alternative date in February to March 1st
    • Start by thinning out the dead wood
    • Cut back the remaining shoots to a length of 30 to 60 centimetres
    • Set scissors or saw above buds or dormant eyes

    Round off the rejuvenation pruning with a generous portion of compost and horn shavings. (32.93€) Administer 3 liters of mature leaf compost with 100 grams of horn shavings per square meter of root disc and water generously. Alternatively, stimulate growth with a special clematis fertilizer such as Kölle's Beste or Cuxin DCM.

    digression

    Decorative underplanting belies a bare shrub base

    Clematis species that are rarely cut, such as Clematis montana and other early bloomers, tend to have a bare shrub base. By planting the root disk with low-competitive perennials, you take the gap out of sight. Blue cushions, marigolds, elfin flowers and purple bells are suitable as underplanting. Because all clematis want a shady base and a sunny crown, species and varieties that are cut every year also benefit from the floral, shady footfolk.

    Cut summer bloomers vigorously - instructions for maintenance pruning

    The Italian clematis (Clematis viticella), the golden clematis (Clematis tangutica), the common clematis (Clematis vitalba) and their breathtaking hybrids, such as 'Jackmanii', bloom tirelessly from June to October in the partially shaded location. As is characteristic of summer flowering shrubs, buds and flowers appear on this year's wood. Following the pruning of the plants, pruning follows special rules that take this growth into account. How to do it right:

    • The best time is between November and January
    • Cut back all shoots rigorously to 10 to 30 centimeters
    • Carefully pull cut branches out of the climbing aid

    The figure below illustrates the vigorous pruning of summer-flowering clematis. The aim of the pruning is the growth of this year's long shoots. The longer a new shoot thrives in the summer, the more blooms it will bear. Combine maintenance pruning with a nutrient supply in February/March to optimize the result.

    Summer flowering clematis bloom on this year's shoots. A vigorous pruning before sprouting promotes growth and abundance of flowers.

    digression

    Prune perennial clematis like summer bloomers

    Some of the most magnificent clematis are non-climbing and woody. Clematis integrifolia and varieties derived from it bloom between June and September on this year's stiffly upright, unwoody shoots. In winter, the plants freeze back, just as the gardener knows from herbaceous perennials. A pruning back to 20 centimeters between November and January creates space for fresh shoots in early spring. As a result, perennial clematis should be treated with regard to pruning like their climbing, woody counterparts with summer flowering.

    Rejuvenate senile summer-blooming clematis - this is how it works

    Gardeners rarely have to complain about senescence and baldness on summer-blooming clematis. The strong maintenance cut has a similar effect to continuous rejuvenation. If you missed pruning for a few years or inherited an uncut clematis, turn back time with this pruning technique:

    • In November/December cut the entire climbing shrub down to 20 centimetres
    • Consequence: the shoots gradually dry back
    • Result: fresh shoots from the rootstock

    Do not cut off the over-aged branches at ground level, otherwise they will dry up to the roots and no longer sprout.

    tips

    If a summer-flowering clematis ends its flowering period in July, this is not an indication of senescence. Under the influence of many hours of sunshine and high temperatures, the clematis has simply exhausted itself. Cut back the climbing artist again at the beginning of August, it will immediately sprout again and shine with new flowers in mid-September.

    Clematis that bloom twice is best cut twice

    Clematis, which bloom twice a year, pose a challenge to the pruning. Prime examples of floral masterpieces are the opulent hybrids with double flowers. The climbing shrubs complete the first flowering period from May to June with short shoots that sprout from the previous year's wood. The second bloom from August to September unfolds on this year's long shoots and appears as single flowers. This is how you master the maintenance cut with flying colours:

    • The best time for the first cut is between November and January
    • Shorten climbing tendrils by a third or a quarter
    • Cut back weak-growing clematis by half
    • The best time for the second cut is in June
    • Cut off wilted flowers down to the next pair of leaves

    The focus of pruning care is on the one-year-old shoots with their short, lateral branches. This is where the lushly filled clematis blossoms present themselves in early summer. The less of the valuable blossom wood remains, the more magnificent the appearance. Late summer blooms benefit when the withered flowers are trimmed. The clematis does not invest any energy in the growth of seed heads but directs the energy into new flowers.

    Twice-flowering clematis, cut back between a quarter and half in late winter and thin out thoroughly. Variable cutting heights encourage better bud distribution. After the first blossoming, it is advantageous to clean up withered blossoms.

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    Differentiating shoot types means optimizing the cutting result

    If you shorten all the shoots by half during winter pruning according to the instructions above, you haven't done anything wrong. Of the flower buds already formed, an acceptable number remains for the first bloom. You can significantly increase the abundance of flowers if you are selective when pruning. Spare one-year-old, bud-bearing branches from pruning entirely. You can identify the valuable blossom wood with lavishly filled blossoms by its almost unbranched growth. The faded branches of the previous year are perennial and noticeably branched at the time of the maintenance cut, so that they are cut back by half. On the resulting shoots, the second flower cluster with simple flowers appears in summer.

    Regularly rejuvenate twice-blooming clematis - step-by-step instructions

    Moderate pruning on twice-blooming clematis will inevitably result in premature senescence. An impenetrable tangle forms as old, young and dead shoots, which calls for the gardener's tidying hand. Using scissors and a saw, stop the aging process by making rejuvenation cuts every 5 years. Here’s how to do it competently, step by step:

    • Cut back all shoots to a height of 30 to 50 centimeters
    • Ideally choose a pair of sleeping eyes as a starting point for scissors or saw
    • Do not cut deadwood down to ground level, but shorten it to 20 centimetres

    There is no reason to worry if all the shoots dry back immediately. Continue undeterred with the nutrient and water supply, even if there are no more shoots to be seen afterwards. Under normal conditions, you can look forward to vigorous budding and a rejuvenated clematis next spring, or the spring after next at the latest.

    digression

    Perfect pruning begins near the buds

    Clematis thrive with opposite buds. This requires special cutting technique as part of cutting care. A vital shoot depends on you cutting at a short distance from two opposite eyes. Ideally, place the scissors 3 to 5 millimeters above a pair of buds. If you cut too far away, the stub of the shoot will hinder budding. If you cut too close or into the buds, they will dry up and die. Hold the scissors at a slight angle away from the pair of buds so that rainwater and irrigation water run off quickly.

    frequently asked Questions

    Are all clematis hardy?

    With a few exceptions, Clematis species and varieties are hardy. Light winter protection is recommended for Clematis florida, Clematis texensis and evergreen species such as Clematis armandii. Long-lasting winter wetness in the bed proves to be more problematic than severe frost. It is therefore advisable to cover the root disc with needle brushwood to absorb hail, snow and continuous rain. The frost hardiness of clematis in buckets is limited due to the exposed position of their root balls. Before the onset of winter, wrap the pots with fleece, jute or bubble wrap and push a block of wood under the bottom of the pot.

    Are clematis poisonous?

    Clematis hide a poisonous secret. Unfortunately, the magnificent flowering plants are permeated with poisonous protoanemonins and other toxins. Brief skin contact is enough to torment the affected gardener with allergic reactions. Eating flowers, fruits, or leaves causes nausea and vomiting. Animals are also not immune to the toxins. Therefore, please choose the location for Clematis out of the reach of children and animals. Wear protective clothing for care and cutting work. As a precaution, dispose of the clippings in the organic waste bin and not on the compost.

    How can I tell if a leafless clematis shoot is still alive?

    When clematis are in their hibernation, they are leafless and appear lifeless. Carry out the vitality test so that you can distinguish living wood from dead wood. To do this, cut off a piece of the shoot and make sure by looking at the cross section that the inside is still green and juicy. If, on the other hand, brown, dry tissue appears, you can thin out the branch.

    When is the best time to plant clematis?

    Experienced clematis experts, such as Germany's leading clematis breeder, Friedrich Manfred Westphal, advocate late summer and early autumn as the best time to plant. Young clematis find ideal conditions during the months of August, September and October. At a soil temperature of 14 to 20 degrees Celsius, the plants root quickly and start their first garden season in spring with a vital growth advantage.

    The leaves of my evergreen clematis turned brown over the winter. Should I remove the foliage or cut back the entire plant?

    Evergreen clematis react to the blazing winter sun and severe frost with brown, wilted leaves. Remove the frozen leaves and strengthen the clematis with fertilizer so that it sprout new leaves. If you cut back the plant now, this year's flowering will fail. Evergreen species do it, such as Clematis montana, Clematis alpina or even rhododendrons and forsythia; they put on the buds for the next flowering period in the summer of the previous year.

    Clematis with clematis wilt - what can I do?

    So far, gardeners have been lost against clematis wilt. The fatal disease is triggered by a fungal pathogen that has so far proven to be resistant to pesticides. For this emergency situation, the pair of buds is intended as an iron reserve that you put in the ground when planting. Cut the affected clematis back to just above the ground and apply a good fertilizer. The plant's defenses decide whether it will start sprouting again. Make sure you have a balanced supply of water and nutrients while you wait. If you do not want to bother with clematis wilt in the future, plant the Italian clematis (Clematis viticella) and resulting varieties that are largely spared from the disease.

    My clematis comes from the new Envipo breeding line. What should be considered when cutting back?

    The magical novelties in the realm of clematis inspire with huge, lavishly filled flowers. The flowering period extends from June to October. This results in the rules for summer-flowering species and varieties for pruning care. Between November and December, cut back all shoots vigorously to 30 centimeters. Buds for next year's flowering spectacle only appear on fresh shoots, so you can't go wrong with a winter appointment.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Clematis pruning care seems complicated at first glance. Don't let the different cuts and times prevent you from integrating the top-class beauty of flowers into your garden design. Act according to the motto "Practice makes perfect". Thanks to a good-natured cut compatibility, most cutting errors can be eliminated within a short time. The following table would like to save you from the three most common mistakes:

    cut type damage picture Prevention/Correction
    Prune early flowering species in late winter Total failure of this year's flowering period Prune spring flowering bulbs in May/June
    Summer-flowering species never cut few flowers, premature senescence Cut back summer bloomers vigorously every year
    no plant cutting sparse branching at the base of the shrub after planting, shorten all shoots to 20-30 cm
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    tips

    With grafted clematis varieties, the wild underlay can sometimes drive through. Tightly upright wild shoots sprout from the root disc and compete with the noble part for water and nutrient supply. You can identify the strong-growing water shoots by a different leaf shape and by large, significantly larger leaf spacings, called internodes. Remove wild shoots as soon as possible so that they do not overgrow the noble clematis.

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Indoor plants