- Cutting ivy - pruning options and dates
- Complete the topiary in February
- Cutting ivy falls under the Federal Nature Conservation Act
- Care cut for a representative appearance
- Well equipped to cut ivy
- Revitalize old ivy plant
- Remove ivy from facades
- frequently asked Questions
If an evergreen, easy-care climbing plant is on the planting plan, ivy is the first choice. In sunny to shady locations, the vigorous climbing shrub greens fences, trellises and facades or is useful as an opaque ground cover. A rapid growth rate of up to 100 centimeters per year makes pruning measures unavoidable. This tutorial explains when and how to skilfully prune ivy in a practical way that is suitable for beginners.

Table of Contents
Show all- Editing options and dates
- topiary
- care cut
- taper cut
- methods of elimination
- frequently asked Questions
- The best time is the end of January to the end of February when the weather is frost-free and overcast
- Thoroughly inspect the climbing shrub for overwintering animals and cut later if necessary
- Cut back tendrils that are too long on climbing and ground-covering plants
- Thin out dead wood and unfavorable growing shoots
- Schedule your summer pruning on a cloudy day that is not too hot
- Inspect climbing shrub carefully for nesting birds
- Postpone the date to the end of August if there are nests in the branches
- Cut back tendrils that are protruding or overhanging
- 3 to 4 weeks before starting the removal: saw through all connections to the root system in the ground
- Remove as many tendrils as possible from the facade
- Attach the weed scraper to the telescopic handle and scrape off all plant debris
- Spray off the remaining adhesive roots with a high-pressure cleaner (€119.90).
- Alternatively: Rent a dry ice blasting system and work platform
- Spray dry ice directly onto the adhesive roots via a narrow tube
- Remove the last bits of ivy with a wire brush
- Repair holes in the plaster or completely replaster the facade
- Scrape off the remains of tendrils and adhesive roots with a scraper and triangular grinder
- Remove any remaining residue with 180 or 120 grit sandpaper
- Give the slate surface a new shine with a special cleaning agent
Cutting ivy - pruning options and dates
With ivy, gardening becomes a pleasurable endeavor. Apart from a regular pruning, the climbing artist does not expect any significant care. Even beginners in the hobby gardening cannot go wrong with the cut. There are no special pruning techniques to be observed in order to put the strong-growing green plant in its place. The following table summarizes all cutting options with tips for choosing the best date:
cut option | goal/occasion | best appointment |
---|---|---|
topiary | Shorten long tendrils, thin out dense wood | February |
care cut | maintain a neat appearance | late June to mid-July |
taper cut | revitalize old climbing plant | January to early March |
elimination | Partially or completely remove the ivy from the facade | October 1st to February 28th |
Complete the topiary in February
In the first few years after planting, ivy reassures its gardener, because there is initially no sign of rapid growth. Once the evergreen plant has settled in at the location, it provides convincing proof of why it is one of the growth rockets. A targeted topiary shows the climbing plant its limits. This is how easy it is to direct growth in the desired direction:
Go to work in good spirits, because You can't go wrong. If you are bothered by ivy, boldly cut down gutters, windows and doors. On older plants, long, faded shoots with poisonous berries protrude horizontally from the green area. With a radical cut, redirect them to side shoots close to the wall or to the ground.
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Cutting ivy falls under the Federal Nature Conservation Act
Ivy's good-natured pruning tolerance doesn't imply that you keep the scissors circling all year round. As a woody climbing plant, ivy is subject to the strict requirements stipulated by the Federal Nature Conservation Act for pruning. Extensive pruning is prohibited from March 1st to September 30th. The reason for the grace period is the breeding season of our birds. In exceptional cases, slight pruning may be carried out, provided that no more than this year's growth falls victim to scissors or saws. The exemption lapses if wild animals devote themselves to their offspring in the plant. From October 1st to February 28th, all kinds of pruning are permitted, provided that it can be ruled out in advance that wild animals could be disturbed or driven away.Care cut for a representative appearance
A summer grooming cut is the ideal complement to the winter topiary. Around St. John's Day (June 24) is traditionally a good date for one easy pruning. At this time, native plants take a short break from growth and then sprout again with reduced force. Prune ivy between the end of June and mid-July and the climber will maintain a neat appearance for many weeks. It is important to note that the pruning affects the this year's increase limited. How to do it right:
When pruning in summer, please bear in mind that you are exposing previously shaded leaves. It is therefore advisable not to cut ivy in direct sunlight. Alternatively, hang a shading net over the plant for a few days so that the lush green or variegated ornamental leaves do not suffer from sunburn.
digression
Well equipped to cut ivy
In the first few years, you can manage the pruning of an ivy hedge with a standard two-handed hedge trimmer. (€77.00) If the climbing artist is greening a small area, you can easily trim tendrils that are too long with one-handed secateurs, either as a bypass or anvil -Scissors. Over time, the climbing plant conquers larger areas or facades and forms strong, woody shoots. To create order here, a Japanese saw is helpful.Revitalize old ivy plant
If ivy remains uncut for many years, a conventional topiary will not bring order to the dense network of tendrils. The good-natured cut tolerance allows a radical rejuvenation cut. In this context, it is quite possible to put the climbing plant on the stick. Cut back all tendrils to the thick rootstock. In the period that follows, the plant reliably drives out again from its dormant eyes. This procedure is suitable for the option that a renewed greening with ivy is desired at the location. Complete elimination of roots and vines requires a draconian procedure, which you can read about in the following section.
tips
When trimmed, ivy can release small parts of the plant that you could inhale. Therefore, wear a respirator when engaging in a topiary or makeover cut.
Remove ivy from facades
The legendary growth and climbing power of ivy is both a blessing and a curse. If you let the evergreen climbing artist do as you please, you won't be able to get rid of them that easily. The following removal methods are aimed at gardeners who are struggling with wall damage caused by ivy with its clinging roots. To weaken the creeper, carry out various preparatory work about a month beforehand. The respective procedure takes into account the specific nature of the facade:
preliminary work
Plastered masonry
slate wall
Strong tendrils of ivy do a great job on clinker facades. If you find yourself forced to clear the masonry of green growth, you are dealing with a hardened opponent. Patience and perseverance are now required to eliminate the plant completely. Following the preparatory work, ivy is already visibly weakened. With a high-pressure cleaner and dirt blaster, there are good prospects of removing the remaining root residue. You can get rid of the growth more effectively with a sandblaster. A compressor generates a strong air current that sprays sand from a container onto the wall at high speed. The adhesive roots have nothing to oppose this force and let go. A negative side effect is the risk that loose joint residues will come off under the pressure of the sandblaster.
frequently asked Questions
Is ivy poisonous?
All parts of ivy are poisonous to humans and animals. Skin contact with the plant sap can cause allergic reactions in sensitive people. The berries on older plants are chock full of toxic compounds. Ingestion causes nausea, vomiting, stomach cramps and even shock with circulatory failure. Small children in particular are at risk. Ivy is not recommended for cultivation in the family garden. Cutting work requires wearing gloves and long-sleeved clothing if you don't want to risk severe itching.
We would like to green a 1.80 meter high and 17 meter long south-facing fence with ivy in order to achieve quick privacy. Which ivy species is suitable for this purpose?
In this case, only small-leaved varieties come into consideration and even these only with reservations. Like all evergreen plants, ivy continues to evaporate water through its foliage during winter. The sunnier and windier the location, the greater the probability of failure due to drought stress. Furthermore, it should be borne in mind that young ivy plants thrive as light refugees. It takes at least 2 to 3 years before they decide to climb a fence in a sunny spot.
I have heard that Hedera helix will only flower and bear fruit after many years and will not climb after that point. How long do I have to wait until the first flowering period?
It mainly depends on the local conditions when Hedera helix first flowers and bears black berry fruits. As a rule, the waiting time is between 8 and 10 years. For ivy plants, the beginning of annual flowering is only partially related to their ability to climb. If you take cuttings from the flowering shoots, you will get non-climbing ivy bushes. You can buy these ready-made in specialist shops under the variety designation Hedera helxi Arborescens.
My ivy flowered last summer. Now the winter is over and the vine is disfigured with brown leaves. Did the plant freeze? Can cutting back solve the problem?
The bloom is unrelated to the brown leaves but signals that your ivy has reached a certain age. After 10 to 15 years, ivy changes its propagation strategy to flowers with berries and seeds. The brown foliage is a result of drought stress in winter. If there is no snow cover in severe frost and the winter sun is shining at the same time, a lot of water is lost through the warmed leaves. From the frozen ground, the roots cannot provide replenishment, after which the foliage dries up. After some time, the plant will regenerate itself. If you are bothered by the brown leaves, you can cut off the tendrils that are affected.
When does ivy stop growing?
Ivy is rightly the floral synonym for eternal life. The evergreen climber never stops growing. The plant multiplies and rejuvenates tirelessly via its aerial and adhesive roots. Older plants complement their dispersal strategy with flowers in September and October, which turn into berries with seeds.
I would like to green the 2 meter high concrete wall at my garage entrance from above. The wall is mostly in the shade and only gets a little sun in the afternoon, so I eyed Hedera helix. Does ivy also grow downwards?
Hedera helix prefers to grow upwards and is difficult to convince to let its tendrils droop. Better suited for the project is the carpet medlar (Cotoneaster dammeri radicans), which is just as hardy and shade-tolerant as ivy, although it has no objection to hanging growth.
Does ivy in the balcony box need winter protection?
Outdoor planted Hedera helix is usually very hardy and does not need shelter. In the balcony box, on the other hand, the roots are vulnerable to severe frost. If the thermometer permanently falls below -10 degrees Celsius, we recommend a warming protective coat. Cover the box with foil, fleece or just old sacks. If the winter sun shines directly on the evergreen tendrils in frosty temperatures, a shading net is helpful. Strongly heated ivy leaves evaporate a lot of water, while the roots in the frozen substrate cannot absorb moisture and the plant dries up.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
Even seasoned home gardeners rub their eyes in amazement when ivy suffers from sunburn or frost damage after a pruning. The climbing plant is not completely indestructible, because the following 3 pruning mistakes cause unexpected damage that is easy to avoid.
cutting error | damage picture | prevention |
---|---|---|
cut in frost | frozen back tendrils with dead leaves | never cut at temperatures below -3 degrees Celsius |
cut in full sun | exposed leaves with sunburn | always cut in overcast weather |
never cut and planted without a climbing aid | Damage to facade and walls | Plant with a climbing aid at least 5 cm away from the wall and prune regularly |
Strong coughing and itchy skin are also common problems after improper ivy pruning. Without respiratory protection, tiny plant parts can get into the lungs and trigger the annoying urge to cough. If the plant sap comes into direct contact with your skin, agonizing itching is inevitable. Please do not pick up the scissors until you have put on a respirator, gloves and long-sleeved clothing.
youtubetips
Ivy prefers to grow under dark wooden siding. Even the eaves are not safe from the green tendrils. Install a sheet metal at least six inches wide that slopes outward and down below vulnerable eaves. Ivy shoots cannot overcome this barrier. Attach the metal sheet so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and is at least 30 centimeters away from the roof.