Panicle hydrangeas impress with their decorative blooms. If you consider the needs of the shrubs, panicle hydrangeas require little care. By choosing the right location, you can enjoy a lush bloom. The popular ornamental shrubs grow in locations with an optimal water supply.

The panicle hydrangea usually flowers white or pink

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossom
  5. heyday
  6. fruit
  7. use
  8. Is panicle hydrangea poisonous?
  9. Which location is suitable?
  10. What soil does the plant need?
  11. cuttings
  12. Panicle hydrangeas in a pot
  13. Water panicle hydrangeas
  14. Properly fertilize panicle hydrangeas
  15. Pruning panicle hydrangeas correctly
  16. How do I plant correctly?
  17. hardy
  18. Diseases
  19. Panicle hydrangea does not bloom
  20. sorts
  21. origin

    All varieties of panicle hydrangeas belong to the Hydrangea paniculata species, which is subdivided into the hydrangea family. The plants are native to the temperate latitudes of Asia. They grow on the Russian island chain of the Kuril Islands and on Sakhalin. The main distribution areas are in China and Japan. Here the species grows in damp forests and meadows and on river banks. Panicle hydrangeas grow at altitudes between 300 and 3,100 meters. The species is considered naturalized in the United States.

    growth

    Panicle hydrangeas grow as woody shrubs and small trees. They develop many fork-shaped ramifications, the bark of which is light gray in color when young and has ocher nuances. With age, the branches turn dark. Old shoots are surrounded by greyish-brown bark. It peels off like paper. Hydrangea paniculata reaches heights of growth between one and five meters. They stretch up to three meters in width. Panicle hydrangeas have an annual growth rate of 25 centimetres, which increases with pruning.

    leaves

    The foliage of the panicle hydrangea is in pairs or whorls of three on the branch. The leaves are divided into a stem that is one to three centimeters long and a leaf blade that is five to 14 centimeters long. The blade is broad to oval or ovoid in shape. It is tapered and has a rounded or wedge-shaped base. Your edge is finely said.

    The leaf surface appears dull green due to the rough hairs, while the underside, which is only hairy on the nerves, is grey-green in colour. The autumn color varies depending on the location. Panicle hydrangeas develop greenish to yellow autumn tones under nutrient-poor and dry conditions.

    blossom

    Hydrangea paniculata bears paniculate inflorescences that are up to 26 centimeters long and arise at the end of a shoot. In the lower part of the inflorescence there are sterile flowers that act as a lure. Their sepals are strikingly enlarged and brightly colored. At the top are fertile flowers composed of sepals and petals. The petals are white in color and less conspicuous than the lower display flowers.

    heyday

    The white, cream, burgundy or pink flowers appear between July and October. The flowering time varies depending on the variety. During the summer, some varieties change the color of their flowers.

    fruit

    The capsule fruits ripen from October to November. They are elliptical in shape and contain between 30 and 100 brown colored seeds. They have small wings at both ends, which make it easier for them to be spread by the wind. Some varieties are sterile and do not develop fruit.

    use

    Panicle hydrangeas are suitable as solitaires in the front yard. They decorate perennial borders where they harmonize with other tall species such as delphiniums. Colorful flowering hedges can be created with the shrubs. You can plant panicle hydrangeas together with other moderately growing species.

    These are suitable plant partners:

    • Hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus)
    • different rhododendron species
    • Bee friend (Phacelia tanacetifolia)

    Smaller varieties are suitable for planting in tubs. When the flowers turn a pale pink in autumn, you can cut off the inflorescences and place them in a vase. When dried, the flowers remain attractive for a long time and decorate winter beds or dried bouquets.

    Is panicle hydrangea poisonous?

    Like all hydrangea plants, panicle hydrangeas contain various toxins such as hydrocyanic acid, hydrangenol, hydrangin and saponins. Since the concentration in all parts of the plant is low, slight symptoms of poisoning are to be expected after consuming larger amounts. Dogs and cats, just like humans, can suffer from gastrointestinal problems. The most common complaints in pets include vomiting and diarrhea. Children are quickly put off by the bitter taste of the flowers and leaves, so that there are hardly any symptoms of poisoning.

    Which location is suitable?

    As a heat-loving species, the panicle hydrangea likes a sunny or shaded location. They also thrive in partial shade. Although many varieties are offered as shade-tolerant, the shrubs suffer from a lack of light. Choose a place that is sheltered from the wind. In strong winds there is a risk that the inflorescences will break off.

    What soil does the plant need?

    Hydrangea paniculata prefers fresh to moist soil with a pH in the acidic to neutral range. Small accumulations of lime in the substrate do not cause any problems for the plants. Sandy-gravelly substrates provide ideal conditions, as they have a high permeability. Panicle hydrangeas prefer humus-rich soil with a high proportion of nutrients.

    cuttings

    Select a few annual shoots that are soft and about four to four inches long. Remove lower leaves and shoot tips. Halve larger leaves to reduce evaporation. Put the shoot in sufficiently moist growth substrate. It takes two to three weeks for the cutting to develop roots.

    stick

    In autumn, cut wilted flowering shoots into several pieces the length of a pencil and stick them in moist, humus-rich garden soil. In a sheltered and semi-shady place, the cuttings will develop roots after a few weeks.

    Panicle hydrangeas in a pot

    Smaller varieties are suitable for container planting if sufficient water drainage is provided through drainage and drainage holes. Young panicle hydrangeas are not hardy and must overwinter in a frost-free place for the first year. From the second year you can leave the tub outdoors with winter protection.

    Water panicle hydrangeas

    The need for water is higher in sunny places than in semi-shade. Make sure the soil stays constantly fresh to slightly moist. Short drying times do not cause any problems for the shrubs. In summer, water the plants thoroughly during the evening hours and, with potted plants, make sure that no water collects in the saucer.

    Properly fertilize panicle hydrangeas

    In spring, the perennial enjoys mineral fertilization. Sprinkle additional organic fertilizer such as horn shavings (32.93€) on the substrate. A long-term fertilizer is recommended so that it has sufficient nutrients available throughout the summer. Alternatively, you should fertilize the perennials every eight to 14 days.

    Pruning panicle hydrangeas correctly

    Panicle hydrangeas grow from fresh wood and should not be cut back too far. In the spring, the bushes are pruned vigorously. You can shorten the plant by a third to a half. Such cutting measures stimulate the perennial to form fresh shoots, but are not necessary.

    Alternatively, you can thin out your shrub regularly in summer or remove wilted inflorescences in late summer. This extends the flowering period, because panicle hydrangeas develop new flower panicles with long stems after the late pruning. Strong thinning is only recommended for plants that grow in a wind-protected location, as the fresh shoots are at risk of wind damage.

    Important when cutting:

    • leave at least two pairs of eyes
    • Cut shoots in half
    • Completely remove weak branches or flowering shoots that are too close together

    How do I plant correctly?

    Panicle hydrangeas that have been in one location for less than five years can be transplanted without any problems. Older shrubs have developed an extensive root system, so that a change of location is associated with root loss. The ideal time for the measure is after flowering, so that the shrub can grow in the new location until the onset of winter.

    Cut off bare shoots and withered stems and dig out a large root ball. Lift the roots out of the hole and plant the shrub in the new location. Broken roots should be removed as they will not benefit the plant.

    hardy

    Frosty temperatures do not cause any problems for panicle hydrangeas. In particularly cold and snow-free winter months, you should protect the shrub with brushwood. This prevents the shoots from freezing back and the shrub can sprout better next spring. The fresh sprouting can be endangered by late frosts. Cover the bush with fleece or film so that the shoots are protected from freezing.

    Potted plants in a pot with a depth of between 30 and 40 centimeters hibernate from the second year in a sheltered location outdoors. Wrap the jar with jute sacks and place it on a wooden board. Smaller pots should overwinter in a frost-free room with temperatures between three and five degrees Celsius.

    Diseases

    Outdoors, panicle hydrangeas are resistant to diseases and pests. A rare disease is chlorosis, which is manifested by yellowing of the leaves. It is the result of a strongly alkaline soil or an iron deficiency. The plant will recover quickly if you fertilize at the first sign and mix some acidic soil under the substrate. Peat or rhododendron soil is suitable for this.

    Panicle hydrangea does not bloom

    Young plants need a few years until they show their flowers in their new location. If older specimens do not flower, a wrong location can be the cause. The shrubs will not flower if the conditions are too dark. They need a partially shaded to sunny location. Unsuitable substrate conditions can also lead to a lack of flowering. Make sure that the soil is not too sandy and calcareous.

    tips

    Mature and firm inflorescences can be cut off to dry and placed in a vase just filled with water. Once the water is gone, the flowers dry. They appear parchment-like due to the slightly crumpled petals.

    sorts

    • grandiflora: Highly branched. Cone-shaped flower spikes, up to 30 centimeters long with white flowers. Flowers from August to late autumn. Grows up to 200 centimeters high.
    • Limelight: Cone-shaped inflorescences, initially creamy white and later pink-red, pleasantly fragrant. Blooms from July to October. Reaches growth heights of up to 200 centimetres.
    • Magical Mont Blanc: Compact and slow growth. Snow-white flowers from June to September. Up to 120 centimeters high.

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