Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is anything but common. The lavish spring blooms of wild species and noble varieties are legendary. With the right cutting care, you can maintain and optimize shape, vitality and abundance of flowers. When and how to trim lilacs expertly, this tutorial explains in a practical way. A comprehensible guide to growing a lilac tree explains step by step how to do it.

The flowers can be cut for the vase

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts with appointments
  2. plant cuttings shrub
  3. Top-up pruning shrub
  4. Educational pruning lilac tree
  5. clean up
  6. thinning cut
  7. Rejuvenation lilac bush
  8. Rejuvenation lilac tree
  9. Cutting tool tips
  10. frequently asked Questions

    11. Many types of cut - one goal: this is how lilacs remain shapely and blooming

    Lilacs are characterized by profuse spring flowering and legendary longevity. The valuable blossom wood remains vital for up to 20 years. Uncut, lilac bushes and lilac trees lose their harmonious shape, older branches age and inner twigs die off. Ultimately, the neglected lilac sheds and presents itself in the outer area with unsightly ramifications that carry a few small panicles of flowers. With a cut care at the right time you counteract this process. The following table summarizes all types of cuts with recommended dates:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment
    plant cuttings shrub dense branching from the base after planting or the following spring
    Top-up pruning shrub educate a harmonious shrub shape first to third year
    Education pruning tree Raise a lilac tree with an even crown February to early March
    clean up well-groomed appearance, prevent seed formation at the end of the flowering period
    thinning cut Thin out dead wood and unfavorable shoots February to early March
    taper cut revitalize senile lilacs November to late February

    With the exception of getting rid of faded flowers, we recommend early spring as the best time for pruning. The reason for this date recommendation is the growth behavior. Lilacs already lay buds for next year during their current flowering period. A vigorous pruning after flowering will destroy most of the newly planted buds. The growth of leaves and shoots can no longer be expected in summer, not to mention next year's flowering period. If you cut in the spring before flowering, buds will also fall victim to the scissors. However, at this time they are swollen and clearly visible or have already been expelled, which allows a targeted incision. Last but not least, the legislature has a say in the scheduling of far-reaching pruning measures, such as clearing and regeneration.

    background

    Thinning and rejuvenating lilacs is subject to legal limitations

    Lilac bushes and lilac trees are a popular place for native birds and feathered summer visitors to nest in the densely leafy branches. To ensure that the breeding business remains undisturbed, the Federal Nature Conservation Act has strictly regulated cutting measures on hedges and trees. Thinning and regeneration is permitted from October 1st to February 28th provided there are no overwintering wild animals in the wood. During the grace period from March 1st to September 30th, the legislature allows light care cuts, such as cleaning out withered inflorescences. Violations will result in a fine of up to 50,000 euros.

    Plant pruning prevents bare shrub base

    The best time to plant bare-root, inexpensive lilacs is in autumn. For young shrubs in containers, the time window for planting is open all year round, provided it is not freezing. Regardless of when and how you plant lilacs, encourage vigorous branching at the base with the following pruning:

    • Bare-rooted goods: cut off damaged roots, cut back all shoots by half
    • Container goods: Cut shoots by a third, remove weak, broken branches
    • Result: failure of the first flowering period, in return vigorous budding at the base of the plant

    Knowledge-thirsty home gardeners are wondering why the reaction of the lilac bush to pruning can be reliably predicted. One of the three fundamental growth laws entitles you to a reliable forecast. According to the Top Promotion Act, growth from top buds is significantly stronger than from buds arranged below. This applies equally to the plant per se and its individual shoots. If you cut off buds with a top position when planting, deeper-lying buds will take over this function. As a result, the juice pressure increases and causes a strong budding.

    Build up a well-formed lilac bush - this is how it works

    The pruning gives the floral initial spark. With a pruning over the next two to three years, you will guide the growth of your lilac bush in the direction of a harmonious shape. The figure below illustrates the pruning measures and the manual intervention on the rootstock. This is how the construction cut succeeds:

    • The best time is February to early March
    • Ungrafted and grafted lilacs: raise with 5 to 7 skeletal shoots
    • Ungrafted shrub: select vital lower shoots, pull out excess lower shoots
    • Grafted shrub: determine shoots above the grafting point for the framework, pull out all shoots below the grafting point

    Please do not cut back scaffolding shoots under any circumstances, because they carry the buds for further growth and the flowers. If a flowering period is coming to an end during the multi-year build-up phase, cut off withered panicles. Position the scissors a short distance from an outward-facing bud.

    Lilac and wild species benefit from a harmonious framework structure. Raise the shrub with 5 to 7 lower shoots that will remain vital for many years. Tear off excess ground shoots with a jerk.

    Growing a lilac tree - it's that easy

    A modified pruning is required if you raise a young plant to a lilac tree. Ready-made high stems from the hand of the master gardener are sold at prices of 50 euros and more. Since magnificent lilacs, such as 'Remembrance of Ludwig Späth', can be purchased as ungrafted young plants, ambitious home gardeners carry out the training themselves. A young shrub with a strong central shoot offers the perfect starting point. How to do it:

    • Tie the center shoot to a sturdy support stick
    • Remove competing shoots growing out of the ground and all side shoots
    • Guide the central shoot as a future trunk on the support rod to the desired height
    • Cut off the stem tip when it is 3 pairs of buds above the desired crown height
    • Build a crown of four to five strong side branches
    • Remove all other side branches and competitive instincts

    A lilac tree is just as decorative when it is raised as a small tree with two to four trunks around a raised central trunk. This version is recommended if the gem is presented in the middle of a spacious park. For the small garden and in the tub, the lilac standard has emerged as the ideal form of training in practice.

    tips

    Don't cut your lilac just anywhere, but purposefully just above an outward-facing pair of buds. With this pruning technique, you point the growth of new shoots in the right direction. Place the scissors at a maximum distance of 5 millimeters from the opposite buds or leaves. Don't leave a long stub and don't cut into the leaf nodes. Your lilac will thank you for the careful pruning with a healthy, vital budding.

    Trim wilted flowers for a neat appearance

    Once growth and training are complete, pruning leads to annual cleaning of withered flower spikes. Home gardeners primarily use the method to give the withered lilac a well-groomed appearance. The extent to which the measure then invests more energy in the formation of buds is a matter of controversial debate among experts. Since you run the risk of destroying buds that have already formed when you clean them out, please proceed with caution.

    As shown in the image below, cut just below a wilted flower spike. Choose an outward-facing pair of buds as the starting point for the scissors. Branches sprouting from it make your lilac appear more voluminous and do not cast shadows inside.

    At the end of the flowering period, cut off any faded flowers. Be careful: below the withered inflorescences are already the buds for next year. Position the scissors just below a faded panicle.

    Thinning out keeps the bush and tree crown vital

    On skilfully cultivated lilac bushes and lilac trees, pruning care is limited to cleaning out withered inflorescences for many years. Where the ornamental tree feels at home, it gives you vital blossom wood for up to 20 years. If there is still reason to complain about a lilac that has not bloomed or is bare, a thinning cut will solve the problem. How to proceed professionally:

    • The best time is late winter to late February/early March
    • Lilac bush: Thin out senile shoots to 5 cm short cones
    • Lilac tree: Remove deadwood and unfavorably growing branches from the crown

    As illustrated in the figure below, cut off old skeletal shoots on the unrooted lilac bush just above the ground. If it is a grafted lilac bush, cut above the grafting point. Choose promising, young bottom shoots as a replacement and remove all weak and unfavorable wood.

    Important to note when thinning out within the crown of the lilac tree is the cut on the branch. Do you feel compelled to thin out an old leader? Then position the saw in such a way that the small bead between the branch and the trunk is not damaged. If you cannot see an astring, please avoid cutting into the stem bark.

    In early spring, remove dead and unfavorably growing shoots from your lilac bush. If you haven't already done so, cut off dead flower spikes. Following this example, thin out the crown of the lilac tree.

    digression

    Better to pull out wild shoots

    The most beautiful lilac varieties are grafted onto the rootstock of the wild species. The rootstock demonstrates its vigor through the vehement budding of wild shoots. The shoots are usually recognizable by a different leaf shape and larger leaf spacings (internodes). With rapid growth, the shoots, known as water shoots, strive to overgrow the noble part and rob it of its nutrient supply. Keep a close eye on wild shoots throughout the year. If a shot of water catches your eye, tear it off with a courageous jerk. The less residual tissue remains on the root spur, the lower the risk that another wild shoot will shoot up there.

    Correctly rejuvenate a lilac bush - step-by-step instructions

    If an old lilac bush is only remotely reminiscent of its legendary spring splendor, you can rejuvenate it. The best chance of success is radical pruning in late winter, just before growth begins. By choosing a date, you also comply with the provisions of the Federal Nature Conservation Act, as the grace period begins on March 1st. How to revitalize an aging lilac bush:

    • Cut off one to two-thirds of senile shoots on short cones close to the ground
    • Remaining skeletal shoots divert to a lower, young side branch
    • In the late winter that follows, set up strong, outward-facing shoots on the ground as a new framework
    • Ideally tear off all remaining shoots from the rootstock and do not cut them off

    Do old scaffolding shoots have no young side branches to derive from? In this case, cut back all shoots in February to different cutting heights of 20 to 80 centimeters, as shown in the figure below. Then fertilize with mature compost and horn shavings (32.93€) to force growth. Give the revitalized lilac bush until next February to start rebuilding with the 5 to 7 most promising bottom shoots.

    To rejuvenate an old lilac bush, cut back all shoots to 0 to 80 centimeters above the ground in late winter. As a result, numerous young shoots sprout. In the next late winter, select 5 to 7 of the most vital shoots and start the new growth.

    Rejuvenate an old lilac tree in stages - this is how you do it right

    If a lilac tree remains uncut for many years, a densely branched crown with numerous, thick main branches forms. Typical symptoms of a far advanced life cycle are noticeably smaller leaves and flowers as well as a progressive balding of the crown from the inside out. The older and more majestic a lilac tree is, the more careful you should be about it. Spread the rejuvenation over at least three years. Don't just saw off thick, old branches in one go. How to do it right:

    • The best time is during the leafless period between November and February
    • Prune no more than one or two old tree branches each year
    • First saw at a distance of 40 cm from the actual cutting point to the middle of the branch
    • Shift the saw 10 to 20 cm to the right or left
    • Saw until the branch breaks through
    • Saw off the remaining stump on the astring

    Crown knots that you don't remove on Astring get a derivative pruning. Choose a strong side shoot, put the saw where the old leader and young wood fork. The previous side shoot acts as a new leader after the cut. During the regeneration stages, fertilize the lilac tree with 3 liters of compost and 200 grams of horn shavings per square meter of tree disc. Rake in the fertilizer lightly and water again.

    background

    Lilac tree controls wound healing on its own

    By following these instructions and sawing off thick, old branches step by step and on a string, you initiate the plant's internal wound healing. If larger cuts occur on woody plants, tissue capable of dividing (cambium) is exposed, which is located just below the bark. The cambium then turns into a bulge of initially undifferentiated cells, the so-called wound wood (callus). The open wound is gradually overwhelmed by callus. This process aims to permanently isolate dying wood from healthy wood. Intervention by the gardener by sealing a cut with tree wax,(12.96€) hinders the healing process considerably.

    Hard wood requires stable cutting tools - tips on scissors and saws

    Lilac is classified as a hard to very hard wood. Shoots, branches and trunks are therefore just as strong and resilient as elder or firethorn wood. Furthermore, lilac wood has a reputation for quickly splitting and tearing open when fresh and undried, which increases the risk of disease and pest infestation. The conventional pruning shears from the cheap supplier is hardly up to the requirements. Instead, select the cutting tool for your lilac based on the following criteria:

    • Shoots up to 1.5 cm in diameter: one-handed scissors with bypass mechanism for smooth cuts
    • Branches up to 3 cm in diameter: one-hand pruning shears with ratchet gear for power amplification
    • Branches up to 4 cm in diameter and up to 3 meters in height: two-handed pruning shears with telescopic arms
    • Branches from 4.5 cm in diameter: manual or electric tree saw, optionally as a pruner up to 4 meters in height

    Shears for pruning trees are usually available in specialist shops with a bypass or anvil mechanism. Anvil shears work with a sharp blade and a blunt counterpart, which reduces the effort required. A disadvantage is that the drive can be squeezed between the blade and the anvil. Since lilac wood tends to splinter, we recommend bypass shears. This works with two sharp blades that cut through the hard wood smoothly.

    frequently asked Questions

    Are lilacs poisonous?

    Lilac does without defensive strategies such as stinging hairs, thorns or razor-sharp leaf edges. To defend itself against its enemies, the ornamental tree relies on poisonous ingredients. A toxic glycoside called syringin is found in leaves, flowers, roots and bark. Furthermore, lilac bushes and lilac trees are permeated with health-threatening alkaloids and essential oils. Consumption can cause nausea and vomiting. Skin contact causes allergic reactions in sensitive people.Fragrance allergy sufferers suffer from breathing difficulties in the vicinity of lilacs.

    Our wild and noble lilacs have grown well and have already flowered. Unfortunately, the shrubs are only sparsely branched. Can a pruning fix the problem?

    Like all woody plants, wild and noble lilacs persistently strive towards the sunlight with their growth. The branching in the lower shrub area is neglected. In the coming spring, cut back all shoots by a third or half. The cut causes a juice accumulation on the lower buds, which then sprout vigorously. The flower buds are lost for the next flowering period. The effect on branching at the base of the bush is of course permanent.

    I read that a lilac bush forms far-reaching runners. How can I prevent paths or buildings from being damaged?

    You can keep the growth of runners in check if you line the pit with a root barrier when planting. This is non-rotting, impenetrable tissue. It is important to note that the root barrier is at least 50 centimeters deep, is laid without gaps and protrudes 5 to 10 centimeters above the ground so that brazen lilac roots do not overgrow the barrier.

    My lilac tree has been in the wrong location for a few years and has developed an uneven shape. I transplanted it to a better, sunny spot in the fall. When and how can I prune the lilacs?

    With autumn you have chosen the perfect time to transplant an ill-placed lilac tree. This is also the best time for a regular pruning. Since a lot of root volume is lost when moving, you restore the balance between underground and above-ground growth at the same time. Shorten all shoots by at least a third and water regularly so that your lilac tree takes root quickly.

    Chinese lilac is my favorite because it doesn't produce annoying runners. Is the shrub suitable as a privacy hedge? When did the hedge reach its final height of about 3 meters?

    In fact, Chinese lilac (Syringa chinensis) thrives without invasive runners. With this property, it is very popular with home gardeners for the blooming privacy hedge. Thanks to a rapid growth rate, the shrubs have reached a height of 160 to 180 centimeters within 5 years and offer a decorative privacy screen in summer. It usually takes 10 years to reach the final height of 200 to 300 centimetres. A prerequisite for the prognosis is that you limit the section maintenance to one thinning section.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Misunderstandings in pruning care leave a flowerless or prematurely senile lilac. Sometimes the gardener is overzealous when it comes to regeneration and struggles with the total loss of a plant that can naturally live for more than 100 years. To protect you from such mishaps, the following table names the 3 most common cutting errors and gives tips for prevention.

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    heavy pruning after flowering Failure of the next flowering period, little or no shoot growth just trim after flowering
    never cleared many dead branches, bare interior, few flowers Thin out every 2 to 3 years in spring
    old lilac put on the stick in one go Total loss of bush or tree gradually rejuvenate senile lilacs

    Lilac blossoms are in great demand as vase decorations. A common vase pruning mistake is leaving gaps in the appearance of the shrub or crown. Please do not cut the tips of skeleton shoots or crown branches for the vase. Lateral branches that are already in an unfavorable position are more suitable.

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    tips

    Don't want to bother with an old or bare lilac tree? Then cut out one or two beautiful bouquets for the vase from the crown or bush during the flowering period. You get a fragrant floral decoration for your home and effectively prevent premature aging.

Category:

Trees