Weigelae perfectly fit onto the garden stage when spring bloomers wither and summer bloomers send their first buds into the running. With colorful trumpet blossoms, the Asian beauties build an opulent bridge from spring to summer. The most beautiful varieties inspire with a second flowering in late summer. Such an extravagant vegetation cycle requires careful pruning care. When and how to properly cut a weigela is no longer hidden from you here.

A professional pruning promotes the abundance of flowers

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. plant cutting
  3. build-up cut
  4. topiary
  5. care cut
  6. thinning cut
  7. taper cut
  8. Training cut high stem
  9. Cut back when transplanting
  10. frequently asked Questions

    11. Pruning care keeps Weigela lively and thriving - types of cut with appointments

    In the cultivation of weigelia, joy and sorrow are closely related. After just a few years of lavish flowering, the first signs of aging appear in the form of a dwindling abundance of flowers. The previously upright shoots bend towards the ground, so that the entire shrub falls apart and loses its compact stature. At this time, a dense network of old, heavily branched and young shoots has formed inside the bush, which is only remotely reminiscent of the opulence of the early years.

    It doesn't have to come to that. Pruning is the key to a lavish flowering period, provided it is done regularly and at the right time. Weigela lay the buds for the early summer Main flowering period in the previous year on. the rebloom unfolds to the this year's short shoots, which arise from perennial wood. Despite appearances, the shrubs will not flower on their this year's long and ground shoots. If you pay special attention to the idiosyncratic growth, you cannot go wrong. The following table summarizes all types of cuts with information on the best date for you:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment alternative date
    plant cutting dense branching at the base immediately after planting February/March of the following year
    build-up cut educate a stable shrub framework February in the 2nd and 3rd year none
    topiary Preserve willingness to bloom, encourage rebloom after the main flowering period in July February March
    care cut Prevent self-sowing, maintain a well-groomed appearance after the rebloom none
    thinning cut Remove deadwood and unfavorable shoots, continuous regeneration from the 4th year in late winter to early March none
    taper cut revitalize senile weigela between November and the end of February none
    Cut back when changing location Compensation for lost root mass between November and February

    The listing of pruning styles does not imply that all pruning styles are necessarily suitable for your weigela. The following instructions for clearing cuts contain specific measures for continuous rejuvenation. If you follow this recommendation, you can effectively prevent premature senescence, so that a rejuvenation cut is not necessary. If self-sowing in the bed is desired or if you don't feel disturbed by individual shoots protruding from the shape, you can also delete the late summer care cut without replacement.

    Plant pruning - this is how you get the branching going

    Cost-conscious home gardeners purchase weigelae as bare-root goods or go for the cheapest price range for container goods. In the best case, the young plants have three main shoots with a length of 60 to 100 centimeters. Gardeners who are familiar with the effects of pruning do not let the puny appearance irritate them. With this cut you bring the branching going:

    • The best time is after planting in the fall
    • Alternatively, make up for the pruning by the end of February
    • Cut back all shoots by half as illustrated below
    • Ideally cut a few millimeters above a pair of buds or leaf nodes
    • Cut off damaged roots on bare-root young bushes

    There is no doubt that pruning Weigela plants will be at the expense of the first flowering period. In return, lively branching begins at the base of the shrub with a long-term effect. The reward for doing without is a bushy flowering shrub up to the old Weigelia age.

    Your weigela will branch profusely if you prune all shoots back by half after planting. Cut off damaged root tips on a bare-rooted young bush.

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    Plant pruning benefits from law of growth

    Wondering why a weigela's reaction to pruning is so predictable? The prognosis is based on the knowledge that sap pressure regulates growth. Like all plants, the weigela strives unerringly in the direction of the light. In order to reach the goal as quickly as possible, it pumps most of its reserves into the top buds. The process can be recognized by the fact that the shrub grows disproportionately strong at the highest point. Since this growth behavior is common in the plant kingdom, botanists have developed the growth law of top support from it. As the plant pruning removes the top buds of the young shoots, lower-lying buds benefit from the excess sap flow and sprout vigorously.

    It blooms splendidly on the stable framework - pruning instructions

    By nature, weigela develop a framework of strong shoots that remain vital and floriferous for up to seven years. It makes sense to limit the number of scaffold drives for a variety of reasons. For a compact habit in a small garden, as part of a mixed hedge or in a bucket, the following cut has proven itself in practice:

    • The best time is in February of the second and third year
    • Select the strongest 7 to 12 ground shoots
    • Cut off the remaining shoots at the base

    Since the transition to the shape and maintenance cut is fluent, supplement the cut care in the build-up phase in the summer if necessary. If you cut off withered flower clusters, many varieties will have a pretty second bloom in autumn.

    Topiary clears the way for rebloom

    Weigela end their main bloom between the end of June and mid-July, close to St. John's Day. If the scissors are used in this phase, you pave the way for a decorative second bloom and bring the shrub into shape. In addition, they promote vigorous budding of young branches, which will bear numerous flowers next year. How to cut correctly:

    • The best date is close to St. John's Day (June 24) at the latest at the end of the first flowering period
    • Before beginning pruning, inspect the shrub for nesting birds
    • If necessary, postpone the appointment until the breeding business has ended
    • Cut off wilted flowers to the next pair of healthy leaves
    • Shorten shoots that are too long in the area of this year's growth by a maximum of one third

    As the figure below shows, summer pruning care is concentrated on the outer areas of the shrub so that a weigela can maintain its well-groomed appearance.

    After the main bloom, cut back all dead branches to a short, this year's branch on the perennial skeleton shoot. Postpone the thinning of dead and unfavorable branches until late winter.

    Please limit the summery topiary to the faded branches and this year's addition, which was too long. In numerous cutting instructions, the supplementary thinning and continuous rejuvenation are integrated into the summer cut. Out Consideration for nesting birds should be refrained from radical interventions in growth. Native bird species such as bullfinches and blackbirds like to set up their nursery with dense foliage of weigela. In late winter, the Far Eastern ornamental tree copes better with a clearing cut than in the middle of the growth period.

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    Radical cuts on trees and shrubs are only permitted in winter

    Dense foliage, countless flowers and the resulting fruits make not only the weigela a popular nesting place for birds. Extensive pruning measures, such as thinning out dead wood or putting them on the stick are taboo in the summertime. The Federal Nature Conservation Act protects our bird life and specifies strict regulations. Light maintenance pruning is permitted from March 1st to September 30th provided there are no nesting sites within the shrubs. The legislature allows radical cuts from October 1st to February 28th, provided that no wild animals are disturbed.

    Care cut - advantageous in two ways

    After the summer maintenance pruning, numerous Weigela varieties surprise with a beautiful second bloom in late summer. If you clean the withered flowers promptly, the wood does not invest any valuable energy in the growth of seed heads. On this occasion, cheeky shoots can be cut back into the bush shape. A moderate care cut at the end of the season is therefore doubly advantageous. Here’s how to do it professionally:

    • Cut off wilted flowers above the next pair of leaves
    • Cut back individual shoots that protrude from the shrub shape to just above a pair of leaves or eyes

    When making the cut, take into account that your weigela is already Buds for next year's flowering created. Limit the pruning to the withered flowers and single, awkwardly positioned shoot tips. In a garden that is close to nature, the gardener does not clean up withered blossoms so that feathered garden dwellers can feast on the berries.

    Thinning cut has continuous taper in view

    At the beginning of the third or fourth year, the vitality of skeletal shoots decreases. At the same time, dead or unfavorable branches accumulate in the bush. Reason enough to subject the weigela to a thinning cut. Ideally, the starting shot for one will be fired at the same time continuous rejuvenation, which prevents premature senescence. How to do it right:

    • Best time is in February
    • Thin out dead shoots at the base
    • Cut out criss-crossed, inward or stunted branches
    • Cut off the weaker specimen from branches that are too close together
    • Cut off the two oldest scaffolding shoots

    To maintain the skeletal structure, choose the two strongest ground shoots to replace the thinned skeleton shoots. With a pruning by a third or half, you initiate vital branching on the young wood, similar to the pruning of the plant in the first year. All other ground shoots must give way. As the figure below demonstrates, in later years you should finally devote yourself to the aged shoot tips when pruning. Affected branches are diverted to an unbranched side shoot positioned further down.

    A weigela will remain vital and floriferous if you continuously remove the two oldest skeletal shoots from the third or fourth year in exchange for young ground shoots. Rejuvenate senile shoot tips with a diversion cut.

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    Derivative cut - the simple and effective cutting technique

    A common symptom of premature senescence on ground shoots is a broom-like shoot tip that bends to the ground under its weight. If several skeletal shoots are affected, the shrub falls apart and reveals a light center. If you cut off the broom heads, there will be gaps that will close slowly. A derivative cut acts as a local taper and leaves no holes in the appearance. The cutting technique is very simple. Examine the affected bottom shoot for a young side shoot further down. Where both shoots fork, cut off the unwanted wood 5 to 8 millimeters past the fork. From now on, the young side shoot takes over the dominant position without the pruning being visible.

    Taper cut eliminates cutting errors

    Without continuous rejuvenation in connection with the thinning out, your weigela will only be a shadow of itself after a few years. That is no reason to clear the picturesque flowering shrub. Since the Asian ornamental trees sprout from old wood, a radical cut promises the prospect of a new structure. How to put an old weigela on the stick:

    • The best time is on a frost-free day between the end of November and the end of February
    • Cut off dead scaffolding shoots at the base
    • Saw off the remaining, overaged shoots to 5 to 10 centimeters
    • Root disc fertilize with 3 liters of compost and 100 grams of horn shavings

    If lower shoots were not pruned to 5 to 10 centimeters in previous years, unsightly heads with densely intertwined whorls of branches often form, as illustrated in the figure below. You can correct the cutting error step by step. In the first step, cut off all shoots just above the head. Only in the following year do you cut the stump at the base. At the same time, encourage young bottom shoots to build a new framework from them.

    If scaffolding shoots are cut off somewhere, heads with dense whorls of branches form with no prospect of valuable blossom wood. Only a rejuvenating cut can turn back the wheel of time here. Proceed in stages by cutting off the aged whorls in the first winter and removing the heads at ground level in the second winter.

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    Special cutting tool takes on branch whorls

    Gardeners are well equipped with one-hand pruning shears for initial trimming of weigela. The decision between bypass and anvil mechanics is subject to individual premises. Choosing the right tool becomes trickier when an old, densely branched weigela needs to be pruned. The intertwined branch whorls, which offer hardly any starting points for the cut even for Japanese saws, cause headaches. A special two-handed shrub shears (€68.00) with a rotatable cutting head, which can handle branches up to 4 centimeters in diameter, comes into focus as a problem solver. The handles are spread out away from the cutting head, allowing for maneuvering in the thickest of brushwood. The ARS pruning shears are available from specialist retailers at a purchase price of around 100 euros.

    Raise Weigela as a standard - this is how it works

    Magnificent weigela high stems from the specialist trade are mostly crowns grafted onto one stem and have their price. Tolerance to pruning and growth behavior also make it possible to train a young plant from scratch to become a shapely standard. A Weigela with a strong central shoot that is 60 to 150 centimeters long has the best prerequisites. This is how you master the training cut with flying colours:

    • Tie the center drive to a support rod with soft hose ties
    • Cut off competing shoots at the base
    • Remove side branches originating from the central drive
    • Parallel to the increase in height, guide the central drive up the stick

    Once the central shoot has reached the desired trunk height, initiate crown formation. To do this, count four to five eyes from the desired crown height in the direction of the shoot tip. Cut off the shoot tip just above the fifth eye and the branching begins. You assign the task of leading branches to the five strongest shoots. All other side shoots along the trunk are removed.

    Attentive readers of this tutorial will have noticed that the growth law of top support is once again important for the successful upbringing of high stems. As long as the top bud is enthroned on the central shoot, you can count on rapid height growth. Simultaneously with the removal of the top buds, the excess sap pressure flows into lower buds and crown branching begins. Only clip the top when you are absolutely certain that no further growth is desired. Subsequent trunk lengthening is rarely successful.

    Special use for the scissors - transplant old weigela

    Weigela are the ideal ornamental trees for gardeners who like to redesign their green kingdom. The shrubs forgive a change of location even at an advanced age. The most important prerequisites are the right time and a strong pruning. This is how pruning supports rooting after transplanting:

    • The best time is between November and February
    • Cut back all shoots by half before starting transplanting
    • Then dig up Weigela and plant in the new location

    There is no question that you will have to forgo the first flowering period after pruning. In connection with a change of location, however, so much root mass is lost that your weigela would lack the strength to develop flowers anyway. A pruning restores the balance between above-ground and below-ground growth.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is a weigela bush poisonous?

    The stunningly beautiful trumpet flowers of a weigela are perfect for the family garden. No part of the plant contains toxic ingredients. This applies equally to flowers, leaves and berries. If a small child curiously nibbles on the blossoms or fruits, there are no health problems to be feared. Due to the abominable taste, it remains a one-time taste anyway. Consequently, no special precautions need to be taken for horticultural care work.

    I intend to incorporate the Weigela 'Bristol Ruby' into a mixed hedge. How should the planting distance be measured so that an opaque hedge forms? Can I keep the weigela slimmer than the normal width of 150 to 200 centimeters by pruning?

    If the weigela is used as part of a mixed hedge, a planting distance of 100 centimeters is considered appropriate. The excellent pruning tolerance of the plant makes it easy to limit the width to a slim 100 centimeters. The recommended date for the topiary is after flowering, ideally close to St. John's Day, June 24th. Ideally, you should trim the hedges in late winter.

    Can I still prune my weigela 'Bristol Ruby' at the beginning of March? If so, what should you watch out for when cutting?

    The best time for a weigela topiary is after the flowering period. Alternatively, you can cut back the flowering shrub in early spring. Of course, this choice of date goes hand in hand with the failure of this year's flowers. Weigelae lay their buds in the previous year. Only a small rebloom appears on this year's wood. If you prune now at the beginning of March, thin out the oldest shoots so that young, flowering wood can form. If the shrub grows too tall, it tends to grow sparsely and bare. Cut back branches that are too long by half to encourage vigorous branching.

    My dwarf Weiglie 'Purpurrea' is in a bucket on the terrace. When and how much can I prune the shrub?

    It is up to you to decide how much you cut back the length of the shoots. Ideally, combine a pruning with the simultaneous removal of dead branches. The best time is after flowering. It is basically possible to trim a dwarf weigela throughout the summer. An appointment in spring until March 1st or autumn from October 1st is at the expense of the abundance of flowers and is primarily reserved for thinning out dead wood or for a rejuvenation cut.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    When gardeners struggle with a sparse, bare, flowerless Weigela, they have fallen victim to a pruning error. The following table draws your attention to the 3 most common mishaps so that you are prepared for mistakes in cutting care:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Prune shoots in spring Failure of this year's flowering period Always topiary after flowering, thin out in February
    old scaffolding sawed off at knee height Formation of thick heads with dense, flowerless whorls of branches Thin out scaffolding shoots to ground level
    no pruning done bare, sparsely branched growth in the lower part of the shrub cut back all shoots by half after planting
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    tips

    An organic nutrient supply completes the cut care of weigela. Spoil the flowering beauty in March and June with ripe compost and horn shavings. (€32.93) Rake in the fertilizer carefully so as not to damage the shallow roots. Pour generously. A potassium-rich fertilizer in autumn, such as comfrey manure or Thomaskali, is advantageous for winter hardiness.

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Vegetable garden