Hibiscus is an exotic floral dream with a WOW effect for beds, balconies and living rooms. The opulent ornamental shrub forms its elegant shape even without pruning. Your marshmallow will only celebrate the furious blossom festival in glamorous perfection when you reach for the scissors once a year. This tutorial explains when and how to properly prune hibiscus in the garden and as a houseplant.

Fading can be removed at any time

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. Plant cut garden hibiscus
  3. Top-up pruning Garden Hibiscus
  4. maintenance cut
  5. taper cut
  6. hedge trimming
  7. Training cut high stem
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Why is cutting care obligatory? - Types of cuts and dates

    In the bed, on the balcony and behind glass, hibiscus species reside as opulent summer bloomers. Its flowers, which are up to 20 centimeters in size, shine on this year's shoots, which arise from the base shoots that form the framework. Without regular pruning, the flowering wood will dwindle to short side shoots with few flowers that will wilt exhausted within 4 weeks. With a strong pruning, you pave the way for young shoots to the light. It's finally this this year's wood, which is constantly beautiful from summer to late autumn hibiscus flowers stage.

    As a result, hibiscus becomes a picturesque permanent bloomer in beds and living rooms if you cut it professionally. The reasons for pruning range from training as a shrub or standard to maintenance and thinning out to rejuvenation. The following table provides you with a summary of all optional cut types with dates:

    Type of cut/occasion best appointment
    Plant cut garden hibiscus after planting
    Construction cut shrub scaffold February to early March
    Maintenance cut (outdoors and indoors) February to early March
    taper cut November to February
    hedge trimming February to early March
    Training cut high stem late February/early March

    Plant pruning stimulates dense branching in garden hibiscus

    Fresh from the tree nursery comes a young garden marshmallow with a central shoot and a few side branches. You could leave it at that and let the further growth run free. The trellis structure with a solitary main shoot has proven to be disadvantageous in gardening practice. If the base of the bush is damaged or it ages prematurely, the entire hibiscus bush is affected. It is better if you direct the growth in the direction of a framework of several base shoots that carry the valuable blossom wood. The failure of a skeletal shoot then has no serious effects on vitality and flowering. This is how the perfect pruning succeeds:

    • The best time is immediately after planting
    • If you acquire a flowering hibiscus, make up for the pruning the following spring
    • Cut off all stunted and damaged branches beforehand
    • Cut back the remaining shoots by half to two thirds
    • Place scissors 3 or 4 millimeters above one eye

    For a decorative shrub shape, it is advantageous if you leave the bottom shoot in the center a bit longer than the other shoots. Garden marshmallow naturally develops a spindle-shaped silhouette with a slightly raised center. This form is easy to maintain in later years and wears a dense flower dress even when there is no time left for trimming.

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    Law of growth reveals secret of vital branching after pruning

    Beginners in the hibiscus pruning are often surprised that the reaction of the bush to the pruning can be predicted so reliably. In fact, the strong branching at the base of the bush results from the practice-proven growth law of top support. Law dictates that your hibiscus will pump most of its reserves into the top buds to stimulate growth towards the light. Deeper-lying buds have to make do with significantly fewer nutrients. The further the position from the shoot tip, the lower the sap pressure and growth. When pruning the plants, the main beneficiaries are cut off from the sap flow without further ado. The reserve substances are then distributed to the lower buds, which immediately sprout vigorously. The effect has a permanent effect on dense branching at the base of the shrub and cannot be made up for in later types of pruning, with the exception of a tapering pruning.

    Harmonious growth form thanks to growth pruning - instructions for garden marshmallow

    In February of the second year, the section care is devoted to the further development of the skeleton shoots. As illustrated in the figure below, an annual pruning aims at the Education of 5 to 7 strong ground shoots, 4 or 6 of which are easy to get around increased center drive gather. Later, the young side branches will sprout from the buds along the ground shoots, on which the longed-for flower buds will form in the leaf axils. How to cut with gardening expertise:

    • The best time is in February and March, in good time before budding begins
    • Remove all bottom shoots that do not belong to the 5 to 7 skeletal shoots
    • Then on each skeleton drive half or a third of the previous year's increase cut off
    • Raise the middle skeleton shoot 10 to 15 centimeters for a decorative dome shape
    • Finally cut back all side shoots along the bottom shoots to 5 centimeters

    The duration of the build-up phase depends on the final height you are aiming for. In view of its leisurely growth, it takes several years for a garden marshmallow to develop into a stately shrub. On the way there you can look forward to an increasing abundance of flowers from year to year. The requirement is consistent pruning all faded side branches, in order to lure out a renewed sprouting.

    With a framework of 5 to 7 lower shoots, your garden marshmallow is well prepared for a future full of flowers. Ideally, 4 to 6 skeletal shoots are distributed around a higher central shoot. The valuable blossom wood arises from the shoots on the ground every year.

    Instructions for the maintenance cut - this is how it works outside and inside

    The transition from growth to maintenance occurs when your hardy hibiscus shrub has reached the desired height in the garden. The specialist trade usually offers evergreen, frost-sensitive room hibiscus with a ready-made structure. Ergo, pruning begins with an annual maintenance cut on the rose marshmallow. The following practice has been shown to be beneficial for the conservation of all Hibiscus species, both indoors and outdoors:

    • The best time is in February/March
    • First thin out dead wood and branches pointing inwards
    • Remove the weaker of two shoots that are very close together
    • Cut back last year's growth on scaffolding shoots that have reached their final height
    • Divert ground shoots that are too long to a young, lower-lying side branch
    • Finally, severely shorten all faded side branches
    • Cut back side branches to 5 cm on the outside, side branches on the inside to 10 cm

    At the time of maintenance pruning, your garden marshmallow will be leafless. Pick cutting points 0.5 centimeters above an outward-facing bud. This exerts an impulse on the vegetation point so that it sprout quickly. On the evergreen indoor hibiscus, the cut is made a short distance from a leaf or leaf node. There is no need to worry if maintenance pruning leaves your garden hibiscus as a bare skeleton of bottom shoots with short side shoots. Thanks to this cutting technique, the juice accumulates on the buds below the cutting points, which allows the valuable blossom wood to grow rapidly.

    The maintenance pruning is aimed at shape and abundance of flowers. Deadwood is thinned out, unfavorable skeletal shoots are corrected and faded shoots are shortened to short cones.

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    Avoid gaps in the bush by cutting them out

    If the cutting technique of the derivation is part of the gardening repertoire, garden hibiscus and rose mallow retain a harmonious, seamless silhouette after cutting. The art of the special cut lies in the fact that you don't just cut off an old, superfluous branch somewhere. Choose an intersection point Forking of old and young wood. Shortly after this fork, cut off the disused branch. From then on, the young side shoot acts as the new leader, without there being any complaints about an annoying gap in appearance.

    Successfully revitalizing hibiscus - instructions for rejuvenation pruning

    An annual maintenance cut cannot prevent one or the other skeleton shoot on the older hibiscus from aging. Garden shrubs are primarily affected because their winter hardiness decreases with age. Now you will benefit if you follow the recommendation of this tutorial to raise garden marshmallow with a framework of several lower shoots. The revitalization succeeds through the removal of an old ground shoot, the development of a young successor in connection with the rejuvenation of the remaining skeletal shoots. How to cut exemplary:

    • Best time is in winter between November and February
    • Saw off the senile scaffold shoots down to short tenons of 5 centimeters
    • Select an appropriate number of new bottom shoots as replacements
    • Thin out remaining competing shoots to 5 centimeters
    • Remaining skeletal shoots lead to a vital side shoot positioned further down

    As shown in the figure below, first devote yourself to the rejuvenation of the skeletal shoots. In the last step, shorten the faded side branches from the previous year to 2 eyes. Thanks to this procedure, a rejuvenation cut on the hibiscus does not result in the total failure of this year's flowering. Only a reduction in the number of flowers is to be expected until the young skeleton shoots have undergone a build-up, as can be read in the above part of the tutorial.

    Neglected cut care and advancing age are remedied by a radical rejuvenating cut. Cut senile shoots back to short cones, which dry up in summer. Remaining scaffolding shoots are derived from a lower side shoot, which is cut back to 5 to 10 centimeters.

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    The right tool for every type of cut - you should pay attention to that

    If the right tool is at hand, any type of cut on the hibiscus will be effortless. The one-hand secateurs are suitable for trimming shoots up to a thickness of 2 centimeters, optionally for left- or right-handers and as a bypass or anvil model. The two-hand pruning shears are ideal for cutting thick branches with a diameter of 2 to 4 centimeters. If you devote yourself to strong scaffolding shoots with a thickness of more than 4 centimeters as part of the rejuvenation, cutting with the Japanese saw or folding saw (17.70 €) becomes child's play. There is no place for frugality when buying cutting tools. High quality branded products don't let them down even after years. Furthermore, premium quality shears and saws are easy to take apart for important maintenance work.

    Cut the hibiscus hedge correctly - hedge trimming instructions

    With a growth height of up to 250 centimetres, the hardy, pruning-tolerant garden marshmallow and its colorful varieties are ideal for the picturesque flowering hedge. In order for the shrubs to offer the desired privacy factor, the maintenance cut is slightly modified.

    First, thin out the hedge bushes thoroughly for light-flooded and densely leafed growth. Then cut back a third of last year's faded shoots to 2 buds. Cut back another third by half. The last third remains either uncut or is cut at the shoot tips that protrude from the hedge shape. A light pruning in June removes any cheeky knots if they disturb the accurate appearance.

    The aim of the more moderate approach is a compromise between the abundance of flowers and the privacy function. Planting, growth and rejuvenation pruning can be transferred from the solitaire to the hibiscus hedge without any changes.

    Raise hibiscus to be a high stem - this is how it works in 4 steps

    In the cultivation of hibiscus, the upbringing to a standard is considered the supreme discipline. With the help of these instructions and a tear-resistant thread of patience, you will master the challenge with flying colors. A robust, winter-hardy garden marshmallow (Hibiscus syriacus) is perfect for catching envious glances over the garden fence as an elegant standard in beds and tubs. Access varieties such as 'Ultramarine' or 'Hamabo', which grow faster than wild species at 15 to 30 centimeters a year. All 4 steps of education are explained in more detail below.

    Plant pruning focused on stem formation - First step

    With the pruning of the plant, the training to become a standard begins. In connection with planting or in February of the following year, cut off the side branches of the central shoot. As the image below demonstrates, place the scissors over the second or third eye. The main stem is not pruned because without its top bud it will hardly reach the desired height.

    When planting, choose the strongest shoot for the future trunk. Shorten side branches to 2 or 3 eyes. Caution: Do not cut the tip of the center shoot.

    tips

    You can force the formation of a stable main trunk with two further pruning measures. In the first two years, cut off all branches that are sprouting from the trunk in May and again in July. In this way, all the plant energy goes into growing the height and thickness of the central shoot.

    One year later - second step

    After completion of the first year, the second stage follows on the way to the elegant hibiscus standard. The focus is again on the side branches. Please take a look at the image below. It can be seen that the incision is made above the first eye from below.

    If the future trunk has reached the desired height, limit further height growth. Count three buds above the desired crown height. There you cut at a distance of 0.5 centimeters above a bud.

    Cut off any side branches above the first eye. If the tip of the trunk is at least 3 buds above the desired crown height, put the scissors there.

    Two years later - third step

    At the beginning of the third year determine the four strongest side shoots to the leading branches of the crown. Cut them off above the second or third eye. The number of points is counted from the point at which the main branch and trunk fork. Cut all other side shoots that are not part of the crown to short 5 centimeters.

    Designate three to four of the strongest side branches as main branches. Cut these back to two or three buds in February to encourage further branching. All other side shoots must give way.

    Three years later - Fourth step

    The third stage of education is also the beginning of the maintenance phase. Cut back blossomed shoots from last year along the main branches to 2 buds. Remove twigs that grow into the crown or twigs that are noticeably stunted at the base. Shorten the leading branches by half within last year's growth, as long as they have not yet reached the desired final length.

    In the last step of training, cut back faded side branches from the previous year to two buds on the main branches. Side shoots on the trunk that do not belong to the crown are removed.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is hibiscus poisonous?

    Hibiscus is not poisonous. The magnificent plant poses no danger to humans or animals. On the contrary, the Chinese enjoy eating its leaves, flowers and roots. The parts of the plant are used in many different ways in naturopathy. In Europe, the flowers are a coveted ingredient for an aromatic and healing tea. Against this background, hibiscus is a recommended ornamental plant for the family household.

    I want to transplant my 10 year old garden hibiscus. When is the right time? What to look out for

    The best time to transplant is after the leaves have fallen. The time window remains open until the beginning/mid of March. Cut out the ball with as much root volume as possible. Important: Do not add fertilizer. In principle, a garden marshmallow is fertilized between the end of March and the end of July.Since the plant is more than 5 years old, we recommend cutting it back by half. This measure facilitates rooting at the new location. Water a transplanted hibiscus copiously and regularly as drought stress is the greatest threat during growth.

    Is garden marshmallow suitable for training an 80 centimeter high hedge? When is it cut?

    The good pruning tolerance allows the garden marshmallow to be raised as a hedge without further ado. Choose a sunny and ideally wind-protected location. Cut care is limited to a maintenance and shape cut in late winter and a light care cut in June. Any further pruning will noticeably affect the abundance of flowers.

    I've had my standard hibiscus for 5 years and haven't cut it yet. In the meantime, it has finally grown somewhat larger, although it is very sparsely branched. Should I cut it now?

    You can stimulate branching by cutting. The best time is in late winter, in good time before the fresh shoots. Make a targeted cut a short distance away from an outward facing eye. The shoots then branch out below an intersection. It is quite sufficient if you first cut off the tips, because no flowers form there. If necessary, you can cut off a little more. Then encourage new growth with the addition of a complete fertilizer.

    What is the difference between garden hibiscus and indoor hibiscus?

    Garden and indoor hibiscus differ significantly in several respects. Garden hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus) thrives as a deciduous, largely hardy flowering shrub with a stature height of up to 3 meters. Its flowering period extends from June/July to September/October. Indoor hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), also known as Chinese hibiscus, wears its foliage all year round and reaches a height of 1 to 2 meters. The picturesque blossom festival starts in February/March and lasts until October. In contrast to its conspecifics in the garden, indoor hibiscus is not hardy with a minimum temperature of 10 degrees Celsius.

    My hibiscus bushes are spreading through the garden with countless seedlings. What can I do about it?

    Hibiscus shrubs tend to be invasive on light soils and in mild regions. The garden is conquered with the help of myriad seeds, which turn into vigorous seedlings in no time at all. Such a propagation strategy can become annoying in the long run. Cutting out the seed pods continuously during the flowering period is very tedious. It is better if you strip off all seed pods from bottom to top by hand in autumn. Use your other hand to hold a bowl underneath to catch the seed pods. Please dispose of the capsules in the rubbish bin, because they are guaranteed to find their way into the garden from the compost.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    cut in the fall Frost damage up to total failure Cut hibiscus in February
    never cut few flowers, short flowering period Cut vigorously every year in late winter
    Center shoot on the high stem clipped too early puny little standard Cut off top bud first 3 buds above desired crown height

    Infestation with diseases and pests on hibiscus species is closely related to improper pruning care. the most common cause for infection with pathogens unclean cutting tools. Before starting, during and at the end of the cutting work, you should disinfect the blades or saw blades with spirit. Thanks to this circumspection, aphids, powdery mildew spores and the like can no longer abuse the tools as a welcome means of transport to their floral victims.

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    tips

    If the winter leaves a garden marshmallow as a lifeless undergrowth, it is usually not a matter of frost damage. Permanent wetness in winter puts a massive strain on the roots in the soil. You can effectively prevent damage by covering the root disc with leaves and needle brushwood or a thick layer of bark mulch. Regular maintenance pruning is devoted to frozen shoots without affecting this year's flowering.

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Vegetable garden