The American tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) is definitely not a tree for small gardens: the deciduous tree is one of the largest deciduous trees on the North American continent, is both fast and strong-growing and reaches heights of up to 40 meters when old. However, its popularity as an ornamental and park tree is easily explained, because both the distinctively shaped, green foliage and the yellow-orange, tulip-like flowers attract astonished looks.

The American tulip tree starts flowering in late spring

Table of Contents

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  1. origin and distribution
  2. use
  3. appearance and growth
  4. leaves
  5. flowering and flowering time
  6. fruit
  7. toxicity
  8. Which location is suitable?
  9. floor
  10. pot culture
  11. Plant the tulip tree correctly
  12. What is the best planting time?
  13. The right planting distance
  14. subplants
  15. watering the tulip tree
  16. Fertilize the tulip tree properly
  17. Properly cut the tulip tree
  18. Propagating Tulip Tree
  19. How do I plant correctly?
  20. diseases and pests
  21. hibernate
  22. species and varieties
  23. origin and distribution

    Under no circumstances should you confuse the tulip tree with the sometimes also called tulip magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana). Although both species belong to the magnolia family (Magnoliaceae) and are therefore closely related, they do not look very similar.

    The tulip tree (bot. Liriodendron tulipifera) is native to eastern North America, where it is widespread from the Great Lakes on the border with Canada through the Appalachian Mountains to northern Florida. Here, the largest deciduous tree in North America thrives primarily on moist to occasionally flooded soils in river meadows and valleys.

    In addition to the American subspecies, the Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense) in China and Vietnam is another representative of the tulip trees (Liriodendron). Incidentally, tulips and the closely related magnolia trees have been documented for a period of at least 100 million years, with both species also thriving on other parts of the world - for example in Europe - in earlier geological eras.

    The tulip tree arrived in Europe from North America very early on: the first specimens were planted in German and other Central European parks as early as the 17th century, some of which can still be admired today.

    use

    Since the wild species of the tulip tree reaches enormous heights, it should only be planted in large gardens or parks. Here it is particularly suitable for a solitary position, but also looks interesting and impressive in parks as a group or avenue planting. There are now some significantly smaller cultivars for the home garden, such as the two varieties 'Fastigiatum' (15 to 18 meters high) and 'Aureomarginata' (12 to 15 meters high). Since these variants have also been refined, they flower a few years earlier than the wild form - these often only develop their fascinating blooms at the age of 20 and over.

    In the USA and Canada, the tulip tree is one of the most important trees. Its light, finely grained wood - which is also known as "whitewood" for good reason - is used in furniture production and is used for doors and window frames, veneers and cladding, but also made into toys, musical instruments and coffins. Furthermore, the tulip tree is a valuable raw material in pulp and paper production.

    In the garden, the blossoming tulip tree serves as valuable bee pasture, which is extremely rich in nectar.

    appearance and growth

    At 41 meters high, one of the largest (and probably the oldest at around 450 years old) tulip tree in America is right in New York City in the borough of Queens. It is nicknamed the "Queen's Giant", although there are several other quite impressive members of its genus around the world. One of them is located in the botanical garden of the city of Marburg and is also almost 40 meters high.

    Tulip trees grow very quickly at around 30 to 70 centimeters per year, with the pyramid-shaped crown also increasing in circumference by around 20 centimeters every year. Although this remains quite narrow, specimens that are 25 to 35 meters high can still be between 15 and 20 meters wide. The main branches grow steeply upwards. The trunk grows very straight up, appears rather slender with a maximum diameter of 150 centimeters and thickens near the ground, which gives the species, which often grows in flood areas, greater stability. Also characteristic is the longitudinally fissured, light gray bark.

    leaves

    The tulip tree is a deciduous, deciduous tree whose fresh green, alternate leaves turn a bright golden yellow in autumn. The shape of the leaves is unmistakable, which is why tulip trees are easily identified for the expert: they are divided into four pointed, projecting lateral lobes. In addition, the leaves are quite large: the actual leaf is up to 15 centimeters long and up to 20 centimeters wide, with the shape being almost rectangular. There is also a petiole about ten centimeters long.

    flowering and flowering time

    Depending on location and weather, tulip trees open their unique blossoms between April and May or May and June. The bisexual, yellow-orange blossoms are reminiscent of tulip blossoms, are initially cup-shaped and later bell-shaped. Thick, fleshy stamens that are up to five centimeters long protrude from the center of the flower. The flowers of the tulip tree are very rich in nectar and are therefore popular with bees, bumblebees and other insects.

    Unless it is a tulip tree that has been propagated through grafting, you will have to wait a long time for the first blossom: Specimens grown from seed in particular wait at least 15 to 20 years before the first blossoms appear.

    fruit

    After pollination, the tulip tree develops spindle-like fruits that are up to three inches long and are vaguely reminiscent of conifer cones. They are winged and contain about one or two seeds.

    toxicity

    All parts of the tulip tree are considered slightly poisonous to both humans and animals. Thus, both leaves and flowers are not suitable for consumption. Bark and wood, in which the alkaloid glaucine is found, have a particularly high proportion of toxins. The plant sap, in turn, can cause allergic reactions on contact, for example through pruning.

    Which location is suitable?

    The tulip tree feels most comfortable in full sun and sheltered from the wind. This is particularly important because older specimens in particular have a tendency to break in the wind. The tree also grows in semi-shade, but much more slowly there. In addition, the tulip tree will not grow as large in a darker place in the garden.
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    floor

    The optimal substrate for the tulip tree is:

    • nutritious and humic
    • loose and permeable
    • as clay as possible
    • fresh to moist
    • acidic to slightly alkaline

    In principle, the species also thrives on sandy, dry soil, but in this case it grows much more slowly. On the other hand, the soil should definitely be lime-free.

    pot culture

    A permanent pot culture is not recommended due to the rapid growth and expected size. The species is also not suitable as a bonsai.

    Plant the tulip tree correctly

    Plant the tulip tree in its intended location as follows:

    • Place the tree in a bucket of water to allow the roots to soak.
    • Dig a planting hole about twice the size and width of the root system.
    • Slightly loosen the soil on the side walls and on the bottom of the hole.
    • Sludge the planting hole well.
    • Mix the excavation with compost and horn shavings (32.93€) if too lean / sandy.
    • Plant the tree, but not too deep.
    • Fill in the soil, gently tread down.
    • Water the tree.
    • Apply a mulch layer of bark mulch or leaf compost.

    In the following weeks, you should water the newly transplanted tree more frequently.

    What is the best planting time?

    In principle, you can plant the tulip tree in the garden at any time between October and March, provided the weather is mild and the ground is frost-free. However, since the species has very sensitive roots, which can be damaged by planting in autumn or winter, spring is recommended as the ideal planting time - as late as possible and in any case after the ice saints.

    The right planting distance

    Planting in a solitary position is ideal. You should keep a minimum distance of five meters (better more) to other trees.

    subplants

    As heart roots, you can plant under the tulip tree with ground covers and small ornamental shrubs or perennials without hesitation, provided they can withstand strong root pressure and naturally require little water and nutrients. The underplanting has the advantage that it practically acts as a water reservoir and prevents the soil from drying out. With age, Liriodendron tulipifera forms a hemispherical root foundation that rises up and the tree out of the ground, thus ensuring greater stability. Of course, underplanting is no longer possible at this point, but it will take several decades or even centuries to do so.

    Spring commemorative plants (Omphalodes verna), santolina (Santolina chamaecyparissus), Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra), magnificent cranesbill (Geranium magnificum), yellow loosestrife (Lysimachia punctata) or lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis) are well suited for underplanting. Since tulip trees have a rather slender growth and form a narrow crown, the space under the wood is often very bright.

    watering the tulip tree

    Freshly planted tulip trees should be watered regularly to help them grow. But even with older specimens, timely watering is important if the drought persists, since the trees quickly shed their leaves when there is a lack of water. However, the tulip tree can usually cope with short-term water shortages. Incidentally, the magnificent autumn colors are only formed if there is sufficient water supply, which is why you should still use the watering can in late summer if necessary. Although the tulip tree has a high water requirement, like most plants it does not tolerate waterlogging. Permanently wet floors should therefore be avoided if possible.

    Fertilize the tulip tree properly

    In spring and again in early summer you should provide the tulip tree with plenty of mature compost and a generous handful of horn shavings (32.93€). Fertilization with rhododendron fertilizer is also very good for the species, which acidifies the soil and kills two birds with one stone: the heavily consuming tulip tree receives the nutrients it needs, while at the same time the acidic feel-good environment is ensured. In principle, fertilizer is only used between April and July, after which the nutrient supply must be stopped. The reason for this is that the new shoots have to mature in good time before winter and no more are stimulated to grow - they remain too soft and would freeze away in frosty temperatures.
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    Properly cut the tulip tree

    Like the magnolias, the tulip tree does not tolerate regular pruning, which is why it is better not to attack it with scissors. In addition, any training or correction cuts are not necessary, the species develops an attractive crown structure all by itself. Only young trees can still be corrected in their growth by pruning, older ones no longer. It also makes sense to remove dead or diseased material, which you should do in early spring if possible.
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    Propagating Tulip Tree

    Typically, tulip trees are propagated from seed or, in the case of the cultivars, by grafting onto the wild form. But you can also take cuttings in the spring and use them to grow new trees. This is how the propagation of cuttings works:

    • Cut head cuttings about ten to six inches in size in April or May.
    • If necessary, remove leaves except for two leaves.
    • Halve large leaves.
    • Bevel the cut surface slightly, dip in rooting powder.
    • Put the cuttings in a small pot with growing substrate.
    • Water well with lime-free water.
    • Cover the pot with a cut-off PET bottle or foil.
    • Keep bright and warm at 20 to 26 °C, water regularly and air.

    Be patient with your young cuttings: they usually take a long time to form their own roots. As long as the cutting looks healthy and the soil isn't moldy, you're good and there's no need to throw in the towel just yet.
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    How do I plant correctly?

    Tulip trees should not be moved if they have been in their location for a number of years and are well established there. The trees do not tolerate replanting very well because their extensive and sensitive root system is inevitably damaged. Large specimens can only be removed with heavy equipment anyway, which is associated with considerable effort and high costs.

    On the other hand, you can transplant young tulip trees that have been in place for a maximum of three or four years and have not yet grown too tall, relatively easily. But here, too, this measure needs to be well prepared by digging a spade-deep ditch around the tree in the autumn before and filling it with compost. As a result, the roots develop more compactly by the following spring, so that the loss is not too drastic. Transplant the tree in late spring, making sure to prune it back to maintain the balance between the vegetation above and below ground.
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    diseases and pests

    As with all magnolia plants, diseases and pests rarely occur on the tulip tree. The only problem can be keeping it too wet, which manifests itself after a while by rotting. To prevent this, make sure you choose a species-appropriate location, a loose and well-drained substrate, in which you can install drainage if necessary, and a sufficient planting distance.

    Sometimes the tulip tree develops brown leaf spots, which can have various causes. They often indicate a lack of water, but can also be due to saline soil - for example as a result of over-fertilization. A rare but not impossible reason is a leaf spot disease, which can usually be controlled well with a solution of copper sulphate.

    hibernate

    Since the tulip tree is sufficiently winter and frost hardy here, too, special overwintering measures are not necessary. Only young trees can be provided with a light protection if it gets very cold.

    tips

    Since the roots of the tulip tree run just below the surface, you should avoid deep-rooted underplanting and mechanical processing of the tree pit. This could irreparably damage the roots.

    species and varieties

    The genus of tulip trees (Liriodendron) includes only two species, both of which can be cultivated as ornamental trees in the home garden. While the American tulip tree in its original form (Liriodendron tulipifera) is only suitable for very large gardens or parks due to its size, the Chinese tulip tree remains smaller with a maximum growth height of up to 17 to 20 meters in the Central European climate. Although the Asian variant is also hardy here, branches and twigs can freeze back in heavy frost.

    In addition, there are two cultivars of the American tulip tree that remain significantly smaller than the wild form:

    • Columnar Tulip Tree 'Fastigiatum': Height of growth up to approx. 15 metres, very narrow habit
    • 'Aureomarginata': fresh green leaves with a yellow-green edge, about 12 to 15 meters tall

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