The chrysanthemum, a very popular pot and garden flower in this country, can look back on more than 2000 years of cultural history. In the old Chinese and Japanese empires, the autumn flower was so popular that a stylized blossom still adorns the coat of arms of Japan today. The plant finally made its way to Europe not quite 200 years ago and experienced an incredible triumph here - there is hardly a garden or household in which one of the numerous varieties can be found. The following article tells you how to properly plant and care for the autumn messenger.

Chrysanthemums come in every color imaginable

Table of Contents

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  1. origin and distribution
  2. use
  3. appearance and growth
  4. leaves
  5. flowers and flowering time
  6. fruit
  7. Toxic or edible?
  8. Which location is suitable?
  9. floor
  10. pot culture
  11. Plant chrysanthemums properly
  12. What is the best planting time?
  13. The right planting distance
  14. Water the chrysanthemum
  15. Fertilize chrysanthemum properly
  16. Cut the chrysanthemum properly
  17. Propagating chrysanthemum
  18. hibernate
  19. diseases and pests
  20. Chrysanthemum does not bloom, what to do?
  21. species and varieties

    22. origin and distribution

    The name of the extremely diverse flower comes from the Greek and means something like "golden flower". In fact, the wild forms of the chrysanthemum mainly have yellow to yellow-orange flowers. The species and varieties bred over the last two millennia - including many hybrids - are very varied in terms of colors and shapes.

    The chrysanthemum originally came from East Asia, where it was very popular, especially in China and Japan, and still is today. Due to its very late flowering just before the beginning of winter and its longevity, it is considered a symbol of endurance and strength - no wonder that the Chinese emperor had it cultivated and bred as an imperial flower in his gardens until 1911.

    The first Asian cultivated forms did not reach Europe until the middle of the 19th century.

    use

    Chrysanthemums are mainly used as ornamental plants in beds and borders, but also in tubs and other planters. They add color to the garden or balcony when all the other plants have long faded and withered. For this reason, the selection of suitable plant partners is not too large: However, the autumn flowers go very well with evergreen plants, grasses such as switchgrass, feather grass or Chinese reed or shrubs and robust perennials such as stonecrop, purple bells, catnip or curry herb. However, chrysanthemums are at their best as lush soloists, either individually or in the company of different varieties.

    appearance and growth

    The genus, which comprises around 40 species, belongs to the daisy family (Asteraceae). As such, they often grow as woody subshrubs or bushes, while some chrysanthemum species have a more herbaceous growth habit. The varieties that we frequently cultivate are between 40 and 100 centimeters high on average and reach a growth width of between half a meter and one meter. The bushes are typically densely branched and, depending on the species and cultivar, can assume hemispherical shapes.

    leaves

    The green leaves are arranged alternately in all species and varieties, but sometimes differ significantly in shape. They can be pinnate or unpinnate, lobed, palmate, entire or toothed. What all chrysanthemums have in common is that they keep their foliage throughout the winter and do not change color in autumn.

    flowers and flowering time

    Characteristic of chrysanthemums is the late flowering period, which only begins in September and often lasts well into October or even November. The color palette of the cup-shaped, filled, semi-double or even simple inflorescences is immense: there are white, yellow, orange and pink, red and violet variants that form both very large and small flowers. Large-flowered chrysanthemums develop flowers that are five or more inches across, while small-flowered varieties show pretty flowers about two to six inches across. But whether big or small: all chrysanthemums bloom lushly and long-lasting, whereby the individual flowers are very durable.

    fruit

    The types of chrysanthemum available in hardware stores, garden centers etc. are usually sterile and do not produce any fruit. However, if the withered inflorescences of some species, such as the autumn chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum), are left on the bush, tiny achenes, not even two millimeters in size, will ripen. These are the seeds of these species, which can be used for propagation.

    Toxic or edible?

    Whether the chrysanthemum in your garden is poisonous and therefore dangerous for children and pets depends mainly on the type and variety. Some, such as the Tanacetum species, also known as winter aster or dandelion, contain a toxin called pyrethrum, which is used in insect repellents because of its effectiveness. With the help of this poison, the plants protect themselves from predators, which is why humans and animals have to be careful. Consumption of poisonous chrysanthemums leads to unpleasant to even severe symptoms of poisoning such as cramps, stomach and intestinal problems, diarrhea and vomiting.

    Other types of chrysanthemum, on the other hand, are used as tea or spice plants. You can use both the flowers (for tea) and the young leaves (for salads) of the so-called edible chrysanthemums. The one-year-old Chrysanthemum coronarium, also known as the lettuce chrysanthemum, is primarily used for this purpose.

    If you want to cultivate chrysanthemums for salad, you should grow the plants yourself from seed. Finished, purchased plants are usually treated with pesticides and other toxic substances and are therefore not approved for consumption.

    Which location is suitable?

    The magnificent blossoms of the various types of chrysanthemum only form when the days are getting shorter and the temperatures are dropping. For lush flowering, the plants therefore need a bright but rather cool location with temperatures below 25 °C. If it is too warm for them, they only set a few flowers or even no flowers at all. For the same reason, the flowers feel particularly well in semi- to light-shaded locations, while they tend to dry up quickly in full sun.

    floor

    As heavy feeders, chrysanthemums have a high nutrient requirement and should therefore be planted in nutrient-rich, humus-rich and rather fresh soil. Although the root balls of the plant should not dry out, waterlogging is just as dangerous and will kill the plant. Therefore, prefer a loose and well-drained soil, which you can improve with compost or topsoil if necessary.

    pot culture

    Chrysanthemums do very well in a pot culture as long as they get the attention and care they deserve. The plants should be watered once or twice a week with well-stale tap water or rainwater, at which point root balls that are still damp do not need water. Chrysanthemums are not fertilized during the flowering period; instead, transfer the plants to winter quarters from the first frost. In spring, if necessary, they are repotted in fresh substrate, and liquid fertilizer is ideally used during the growing season to ensure adequate nutrition.

    Plant chrysanthemums properly

    Before planting, place the chrysanthemums in a bucket of water to allow the root ball to soak up the moisture. In the meantime, dig a planting hole about twice the size of the root ball itself. Slurry this well and mix the excavation with a shovelful of compost soil and a handful of horn shavings. (32.93€) Plant the bush up to the root collar - this will help it survive the winter - and tie it to a support rod if necessary . This help is particularly useful for tall species and varieties so that they do not buckle.

    What is the best planting time?

    Chrysanthemums are usually bought in the fall, when the selection is particularly large. However, do not plant these specimens in the bed just yet, as they would hardly survive the winter. The optimal planting date is a mild day in spring or early summer, when the last frosty nights are over. Now the plants have enough time to take root in their new location and gain enough winter hardiness for the cold season.

    The right planting distance

    In general, a planting distance of between 50 and 75 centimeters is recommended, with the large varieties naturally requiring more space than the small forms.

    Water the chrysanthemum

    In contrast to pot cultures, you usually do not have to water chrysanthemums that have been planted out. Exceptions are dry and hot phases, for example in midsummer.

    Fertilize chrysanthemum properly

    Fertilize chrysanthemums that have been planted out twice a year with compost and horn shavings or a mixture of nettle and comfrey manure. The first fertilization takes place as start-up fertilization in early spring, the second in early summer between the end of May and the end of June.

    Cut the chrysanthemum properly

    The right time for pruning is early spring, when the temperatures are milder and the first tender shoots sprout from the ground. Now remove any withered, dead or frozen branches. In addition, chrysanthemums can also be easily cut back during the summer, which promotes branched, dense growth. With age, the plants grow wider and, with good care, often produce more flowers.

    Propagating chrysanthemum

    Chrysanthemums are best propagated vegetatively by division or by head cuttings. Dig up large bushes in the spring and carefully divide them into two or more sub-bushes. On the other hand, cut head cuttings in June or July, for which you select shoots that are about ten to 15 centimeters long and still soft. Plant them in small pots with nutrient-poor growing substrate and keep them slightly moist. As a rule, the cuttings root within a few weeks and can then be transplanted into a pot with humus soil. However, do not plant these young chrysanthemums until the following spring at the earliest.

    hibernate

    In principle, chrysanthemums that have been planted out can overwinter outside, but they need winter protection. Spread a thick layer of leaves and straw over the root area, which you can pile up directly on the main stem. If it gets very cold with minus degrees in the two-digit range, you should also cover the bushes with spruce and fir branches. Never cut back the faded plants in autumn, as the dying shoots provide additional protection against the cold.

    diseases and pests

    A typical disease is the white chrysanthemum rust, which is noticeable by white to yellow spots up to two centimeters in size on the upper side of the leaves. On the other hand, pustules covered with flour-like fluff develop on the underside. Cut back the diseased parts of the plant with clean and sharp scissors and treat the plant with an appropriate fungicide.

    In terms of pests, leaf miners in particular have taken a liking to chrysanthemums. The tiny insects bore holes in the leaves and lay their eggs in them. The larvae that hatch from them finally eat their way through the leaves, so that they are criss-crossed by numerous passages. Miner flies can be repelled very well with neem-based pesticides. However, heavily infested parts of the plant must be cut back.

    Chrysanthemum does not bloom, what to do?

    If chrysanthemums do not want to bloom, then they most likely have not been supplied with enough nutrients. Potted chrysanthemums in particular depend on a regular supply of nutrients and will shed their buds if this is not the case. Incorrect watering and a location that is too dark are also common causes of the lack of flowers.

    tips

    If you celebrate your birthday in autumn, you can look forward to a colorful bouquet of chrysanthemums. The flowers not only last a long time in the vase, they also promise a long life in the language of flowers.

    species and varieties

    There are about 40 different types of chrysanthemums, of course not all of which can be used as garden or ornamental plants. However, no one knows the exact number of varieties - estimates claim that around 12,000 different varieties have been bred over the past few centuries. After all, it is a very old cultivated plant that was cultivated and deliberately bred in gardens as early as the 11th century in China.

    Of particular interest for the garden are the autumn chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum), the gold and silver chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum pacificum), the daisy-like Chrysanthemum zawadzkii and the garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum × morifolium), the latter being mainly are hybrid breeding forms. For the garden lover, however, the species names are less important than the variety names.

    If you also want to plant the perennials in the garden, you should definitely use hardy varieties. Caution is advised when buying, because the plants are usually offered without a specific variety designation. If you want to be on the safe side, you should therefore choose precisely named varieties from specialist shops, such as a specialized perennial nursery.

    The most beautiful chrysanthemum varieties for beds and pots:

    • 'Gigi White': double, white-yellow flowers
    • 'Rotes Julchen': double, dark pink flowers
    • 'Vianna Cream': large pompom flowers in bright yellow, for pot only
    • 'Hue': small, green pompom flowers
    • 'Inga': large, multicolored flowers with a white edge, yellow core and green centre
    • 'Victor Rowe': large, rich yellow and double flowers
    • 'Poesie': yellow center surrounded by numerous white ray florets
    • 'Goldmarie': golden yellow, semi-double flowers
    • 'Mei-Kyo': pink-violet pompom flowers
    • 'White Bouquet': white pompom flowers
    • 'Schwabenstolz': double, dark red flowers
    • 'Yellow Satellite': spidery, lemon-colored flowers
    • 'Emperor of China': double pink flowers
    • 'Goldmarianne': bright yellow ray florets with a yellow centre
    • 'Vymini': bright yellow ray florets with a dark centre
    • 'Palm Green': a particularly unusual and eye-catching variety with grass-green flowers
    • 'Anastasia': small, pink-violet pompom flowers, low habit
    • 'Ceddie Mason': semi-double, deep burgundy flowers with a yellow centre
    • 'Golden Orfe': large, densely filled and bright golden yellow flowers
    • 'Kleiner Bernstein': semi-double, apricot-colored flowers with a yellow centre

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Vegetable garden