Cotoneasters are known from the area greening in parks and on streets. But they can do much more than just cover the ground. If you offer the plant a suitable location, you can enjoy its easy-care beauty for many years.

The cotoneaster is wonderful for greening bare areas

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. blossom
  3. fruit
  4. leaves
  5. growth
  6. use
  7. ground cover
  8. bonsai
  9. Is cotoneaster poisonous?
  10. Which location is suitable?
  11. What soil does the plant need?
  12. multiply cotoneaster
  13. sowing
  14. cuttings
  15. What is the best planting time?
  16. The right planting distance
  17. Cotoneaster in the pot
  18. Cut cotoneaster properly
  19. Water cotoneaster
  20. Fertilize cotoneaster properly
  21. How do I plant correctly?
  22. hibernate
  23. Diseases
  24. lice
  25. sorts

    26. origin

    The cotoneaster genus includes about 90 species. The rose family is widespread in the temperate climate zones of Asia. Their area extends across Europe to North Africa. The shrubs are mainly distributed in the Himalaya mountains and in south-western China. Some species have adapted to extreme locations. They climb altitudes of up to 4,000 meters.

    blossom

    A few cotoneaster species develop flowers that are solitary or clustered in small clusters. The majority has racemose or umbelliferous inflorescences. A flower consists of five and has both male and female flower organs. The calyx consists of five short leaflets that remain until the fruit ripens. It encloses the crown, which is composed of five leaves.

    The flowers can be white, pink, cream, light purple or red in color. The flowering period begins in May or June and lasts until autumn. Cotoneaster species are important food suppliers for native insects. The sweet scent of flowers attracts numerous wild bees and butterflies.

    fruit

    After the flowers have withered, small drupes appear. They are reminiscent of miniature apples and are red, reddish-brown, orange or yellow in colour. In some species the color changes to black. The fruits are an important source of food for birds. Especially in winter they eat the small fruits.

    leaves

    Cotoneasters carry alternate leaves, the leaf blade is short-stalked. The coarse leaves are simple in structure and have a smooth leaf edge. The dense foliage is typical for all Cotoneaster species. The foliage is shiny dark green and remains in many members of the genus even in winter. Tiny stipules sit at the base of the leaves.

    growth

    The species are deciduous or evergreen. There are representatives that grow tree-like and reach heights of up to 15 meters. The majority are shrubs or dwarf shrubs that crawl over the ground with their low-lying shoots. In contrast to the related firethorn species, the branches of the cotoneaster do not have thorns.

    use

    Cotoneasters serve as a low hedge border for beds and perennial plantings. They can be planted alone or as a companion to roses. The slow-growing species look good in the rock garden. Higher growing varieties are suitable for the design of hedges and topiaries. They can be perfectly integrated as a shrub group in woody borders.

    ground cover

    Cotoneaster species are very popular in area greening. Their low stature makes them perfect ground covers that don't require much maintenance. They are just as common in public parks and on traffic islands as they are on embankments. Here, the area-wide growth also ensures slope stabilization. The root system holds the substrate together and the plant body protects the soil from heavy rainfall. As a result, creeping cotoneasters play an important role in protecting against soil erosion. Cotoneaster species are very popular as ground covers in grave plants.
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    bonsai

    Cotoneasters are perfect as bonsai, because their design options are versatile. You can arrange suitable plant material in a freely upright or inclined form. Cascades and semi-cascades can be easily designed with targeted cuts. You can plant on rocks or grow the roots over rocks. Double trunks or group plantings are also possible.

    Cotoneaster species are not suitable as indoor bonsai. They need fresh air and a sunny to partially shaded location. You can purchase suitable material in hardware stores. Particularly old specimens can often be found at disposal stations in cemeteries.

    Why the cotoneaster is suitable as a bonsai

    • high sprouting power after radical pruning
    • uncomplicated care
    • suitable for beginners
    • Cascade design very possible
    • very small leaves with attractive autumn colors

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    Is cotoneaster poisonous?

    All parts of the plant contain the glycoside amygdalin, which is similar to hydrocyanic acid. It is considered mildly toxic and should not be consumed, although health problems only occur after consumption of larger amounts. Ten to 20 fruits can cause vomiting diarrhea.

    House tigers have a habit of nibbling on green plants. The ingredients of the cotoneaster unfold their poisonous effect in cats faster than in humans. Difficulty breathing, palpitations and vomiting may occur. Dogs have a better sense of taste than velvet paws. They usually avoid the fruit after a first test. However, you should keep your dogs away from the plants as they are highly toxic.

    Which location is suitable?

    Cotoneasters thrive in a sunny or partially shaded location. The blooming splendor is all the bigger, the more sun the plants get. Their high adaptability makes them popular ornamental shrubs. They cope well with heat and dry periods.

    What soil does the plant need?

    The shrubs require nutrient-rich soil that offers permeable properties. The lime-tolerant plants do not tolerate waterlogging. To loosen up the soil, you can mix in some gravel or sand. If these conditions are met, cotoneasters will grow on almost any domestic soil. You can use conventional garden or potting soil.

    multiply cotoneaster

    Carpet medlars multiply independently via above-ground runners. You can separate them from the mother plant from autumn and put them in a new location. The young plants take about a year to grow.

    Propagation via sinkers is possible. To do this, the tip of a shoot is scratched crosswise and fixed to the ground with a stone so that the tip protrudes from the substrate. It can take up to two years for the sinker to develop roots. Only then can you separate the branch from the mother plant.
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    sowing

    Cotoneaster species are cold germs. Your seeds need a cold stimulus to stimulate them to germinate. Therefore, you should start sowing shortly before winter. Let the seeds swell in a pot filled with substrate for a few days. Keep the substrate evenly moist. Place the pot outside in a sheltered spot where it will remain until spring. The seeds germinate from March.

    This propagation method is recommended for wild forms. Sowing is not suitable for breeding offspring of the same variety, since the young plants express different combinations of characteristics than their parent plants.

    cuttings

    Cut the shoot tips about ten centimeters long from your cotoneaster and remove the bottom leaves. Fill a planter with potting soil and insert the branches into the substrate. To prevent this from drying out, you can put a glass or plastic hood over the container. The rooting of the cuttings takes place after a few weeks.

    What is the best planting time?

    Planting takes place in winter. Choose a frost-free day between October and May so that you can loosen the soil better. Cotoneasters are available all year round as container plants that can be planted out at any time. Free the substrate from weeds and improve the structure of heavy soils with sand or gravel.

    The right planting distance

    Depending on the desired density, place the plants loosely or closely next to each other. In order for the plants to develop optimally, the distance should not be less than 50 centimeters.
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    Cotoneaster in the pot

    Certain cotoneaster species are suitable for pot planting. There are grafted high stems that decorate pots all year round with their drooping shoots. Creeping species can also be planted in pots. Choose slow-growing plants to keep root space manageable.

    Wide pots with drainage holes are suitable as planters. They ensure water drainage and offer the root ball sufficient development opportunities. You can use conventional potting soil as a substrate. The pot should be outside all year round. Protect the root ball from freezing in winter and make sure that the plant is not in direct sunlight during the cold season. There is a risk of dehydration here.

    Beautify cotoneasters in the bucket:

    • Sitting areas on terraces
    • balcony niches
    • Steps in house entrances
    • foregrounds of walls

    Cut cotoneaster properly

    The shrubs, which tolerate pruning very well, can be pruned regularly. They drive out reliably even after a radical cut in the old wood. This measure is recommended if you want to rejuvenate ground-covering plants. Shrubby cotoneasters are only thinned out. If you grow too wide, you can shorten the young shoots down to the side branches.

    Evergreen species are pruned in spring before fresh shoots appear. Deciduous specimens should be cut back in late winter. Shape cuts are possible until June. Be careful not to cut off too many shoots. This allows the plant to flower in the summer. Dead branches can be removed all year round.
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    Water cotoneaster

    On hot and dry days, the plants enjoy additional watering. If this is omitted, the cotoneasters will not be harmed immediately. You can apply a protective layer of mulch to improve moisture balance in the soil. Potted plants should be watered regularly. They also need water in winter when the days are frost-free.

    Fertilize cotoneaster properly

    During the growth phase, the plants enjoy a regular supply of nutrients with liquid fertilizer, which you administer with the irrigation water. As an alternative to the concentrate, you can use granules to provide the plants with additional nutrients. Fertilization is not a must for outdoor plants. Potted plants should be cared for so that they do not wither under the cramped conditions.

    How do I plant correctly?

    Transplanting outdoor plants does not make sense, since older specimens have developed a strong root system and are damaged when digging up. Since propagation via cuttings works very reliably, transplanting has not proven itself.

    Container plants should be repotted every two to three years so that the roots have fresh substrate and can continue to expand. If you cultivate your cotoneaster as a bonsai, you should treat the plant to a new pot regularly. Young plants are repotted every year, older specimens after two to three years. With this measure, the roots are shortened.

    hibernate

    Cotoneaster species are hardy and survive the frosty temperatures without any problems. So that the evergreen plants do not suffer from drought stress, mulching has proven its worth. The layer protects the soil from freezing and at the same time provides moisture to the roots. If the plants grow in direct sunlight, you should protect the leaves from the winter sun with a plant fleece.

    Diseases

    Cotoneasters are important host plants for the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, which causes fire blight. It spreads from spring to summer and penetrates the organism through flowers and young shoots. As a result, the parts of the plant quickly wither and die. They curl up and take on a black coloration. Because leaves and shoots appear burnt, the disease has been given the name fire blight.

    The bacterium multiplies like an epidemic on surrounding stone fruit. Since there are no effective control methods, you must completely remove infested plants and dispose of them properly or burn them. The disease is notifiable. As a preventative measure, you should choose robust varieties and ensure sufficient distance to fruit trees when planting so that the bacterium cannot spread unhindered.

    lice

    They are among the most common pests that occur on cotoneaster species. Lice suck the sap on the leaf veins, which weakens the plant.

    Aphids and mealybugs

    Cotoneasters are often attacked by aphids and mealybugs. The pests are the main carriers of the fire blight bacterium and should therefore be combated as quickly as possible. In the case of pome fruit plants, sprouting spraying has proven to be a preventive measure against the pests.

    When the buds open and the first leaf tips appear, the plants are treated with a special spray. Promanal is often used here. The agent is not toxic to beneficial insects and contains rapeseed oil, which settles in the bark cracks. It coats eggs and hibernating pests with a film of oil, soon killing off the pests.

    blood lice

    Introduced from America, these pests occasionally infest cotoneasters weakened by lack of nutrients or excess nitrogen. Blood lice have natural enemies. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings. The insects are also eaten by soft beetles, birds or spiders. If your plant is affected, you should regularly remove the lice with a sharp jet of water. Vegetable oil emulsions and ammonia or baking soda solutions help against a heavy infestation.

    tips

    Individually planted cotoneasters look lost in open spaces. Plant eight specimens together in small groups. The shrubs quickly develop a magnificent green island, which you can loosen up with other shrubs such as snow heather, moss roses, broom or stunted pines.

    sorts

    • Cotoneaster horizontalis: Ground cover. Leaves shiny dark green, rounded. Bright red fruits contrast sharply with the foliage.
    • Cotoneaster salicifolius: Leaves dark green on top, felty underneath. Blooms from June, flowers in umbellate panicles, white and very fragrant. Grows up to five feet tall.
    • Oak wood: Ground covering Cotoneaster dammeri with overhanging branches. Leaves blue-green, red when they shoot. Creeping growth up to 50 centimeters high.
    • GoldenSpring: Carpet-forming Cotoneaster dammeri. Foliage glossy dark green, young leaves yellow-green with speckles. Grows up to 20 centimeters high.

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Vegetable garden