The large, silky, elegant brush flowers have given the silk tree its name. But even apart from these magnificent structures, the wood, which comes from Asia, has some curiosities in its luggage. In this article you can read why its cultivation is worthwhile in any case.

The silk tree inspires with its graceful blossoms

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossoms
  5. When is flowering time?
  6. Which location is suitable?
  7. What soil does the plant need?
  8. plant out
  9. hardy
  10. Water the silk tree
  11. Fertilize silk tree properly
  12. Pruning silk tree properly
  13. bonsai
  14. propagation
  15. cultivation
  16. Is silk tree poisonous?
  17. tip
  18. sorts

    19. origin

    The silk tree, botanically Albizia julibrissin, is a species of the genus Albizia, which belongs to the mimosa family. It originally comes from large parts of Asia, from the Middle East from Iran to the farthest Asian corner in Japan from our point of view. It inhabits temperate habitats and is therefore conditionally hardy.

    Due to an extensive independent distribution, especially in the temperate climate zones of the USA, the silk tree is also a neophyte - it has also found new homes outside of its original areas of origin. For example, it has long been widespread as an ornamental plant in the Mediterranean area.

    In the long term, it will also be able to advance to increasingly northern regions due to the increasingly warm global temperatures. Here in Germany it can actually be cultivated without any problems in not too frosty corners of the country.

    Origin at a glance:

    • Silk tree originally comes from the Near and Far East
    • However, as a neophyte it is also found in the temperate zones of the USA
    • Very popular as an ornamental plant in the Mediterranean region
    • Can be easily cultivated here in moderately frost-prone areas

    growth

    The silk tree grows as a delicate tree, sometimes its habit is described as a shrub. Its delicate, slender trunk is covered in dark gray bark and branches are set relatively far down, forming a swinging, expansive crown with filigree ramifications. Altogether, a silk tree can grow up to 6 or 8 meters high, but only under particularly favorable conditions. It grows 20 to 40 cm per year and is usually only around 30 years old.

    Growth characteristics in brief:

    • Delicate, richly branched shrub-like to tree-like growth
    • Sprawling, swinging crown
    • Moderate maximum height of 6-8 meters
    • Maximum age around 30 years

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    leaves

    Even apart from the spectacular blossom, the silk tree is a feast for the eyes for lovers of filigree structures. Because its foliage enchants with elongated, ovoid, fine double pinnate leaves that swing gracefully and gracefully in the wind. The individual leaves have a sickle-like shape of 7 to 18 millimeters and are in 4 to 15 pairs on the petiole. Their edges are finely serrated, and the midribs are clearly hairy. The entire sheet reaches a length of about 7 to 15 centimeters.

    The leaves still have a curious property: they close at night and enter a kind of sleep mode. At daybreak they open again. Therefore, the silk tree also has the nickname "sleep tree".

    Sheet properties in keywords:

    • Doubly pinnate leaves with a very graceful, filigree appearance
    • Individual leaves 7-18 mm long, total leaf length 7-15 cm
    • Finely serrated margins, midribs hairy
    • Close at night - hence the nickname "sleeping tree"

    blossoms

    The flowers of the silk tree surpass its range of graceful beauty - it is not for nothing that they are also the namesake of its main name. In fact, their very fine, smooth texture gives them a silky appearance.

    They are characterized by long, filigree stamens, which result in a pompous tassel of 2 ½ to 3 centimeters in size. They stand alone, in pairs or in threes on 3 ½ to 7 cm long inflorescence stems and have a 3 to 6 mm long bract. The flowers stand out beautifully against the mid-green foliage with their striking play of colors, which changes from a yellow center on the stamens to an intense pink to scarlet pink.

    When is flowering time?

    As with so many beautiful things, the duration of the silk flower blossom is limited and therefore all the more precious. The tree shows the admirable formations only between July and August. If you don't want to miss the flowering season, it's better to plan your summer vacation in June or in the off-season!
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    Which location is suitable?

    The silk tree likes it sunny, warm and sheltered. In the garden you should plant it in a sunny to partially shaded spot that is not too exposed. A south-to-southwest-facing place on a house wall is ideal, where the delicate plant is not tousled by strong gusts of wind.

    If you cultivate the silk tree in a tub, a parking space on a sheltered, south-facing balcony is also conceivable.

    Location requirements in brief:

    • Warm and sunny
    • Protected from strong winds as much as possible
    • Not exposed

    What soil does the plant need?

    The silk tree has a moderate to high nutrient requirement and therefore needs a humus-rich soil. If you plant it in the garden, you should enrich the planting hole well with compost and horn shavings (32.93€). However, good permeability is also necessary - so mix sand into the potting soil if possible, especially if the soil at the planting site is rather heavy. This also prevents excessive water retention, which can have a damaging effect on the root system in the event of frost.

    If you want to keep the silk tree in the bucket, it is also important to provide the soil with a good proportion of organic long-term fertilizer, i.e. compost and/or horn shavings. A proportion of sand is not wrong here either, but a little expanded clay (€19.73) is even better in the narrower container planting ground for good drainage.

    Substrate rules at a glance:

    • Silk tree needs relatively nutrient-rich soil
    • Add compost and horn shavings (32.93€) when planting
    • Loosen up heavy soils with sand for good drainage
    • In pot culture also humic soil, loosened up with sand or expanded clay

    plant out

    For planting, first choose a suitable, sunny and sheltered location. Provide the excavated planting hole with a good drainage layer of sand and, if necessary, some gravel. Fill in the rest with humus-rich, sandy loosened soil. The best time to plant is in spring after the last frosts.
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    hardy

    The silk tree is conditionally hardy - that means it only tolerates frost up to a certain degree, specifically limit values of about -15°C are given. In very cold regions of the country, permanent outdoor cultivation can therefore be critical.

    Young, newly planted specimens in particular should also be protected against cold damage in winter. It is best to wrap the delicate trunk with raffia or sackcloth. Cover the root area with similar material or with fir branches. With increasing age, however, the silk tree becomes less and less sensitive to frost.

    Protection against the cold is, of course, even more important when growing in tubs, but it is also easier to manage. Either cover the bucket with sackcloth, etc., or place the plant in a wintering place where temperatures are not double-digit below zero, for example in a cold house.

    To remember:

    • Silk tree hardy down to about -15°C
    • Young trees in particular should be protected in winter by wrapping the trunk and covering the root area
    • Also wrap and cover specimens kept in buckets or place in a place that is protected from the cold

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    Water the silk tree

    In outdoor cultivation, you do not actually need to water the silk tree, at most during longer periods of drought.

    In the bucket culture, the plant is more dependent on your water supply. Be sure to give him regular water, either through rain or from your watering can.

    Fertilize silk tree properly

    You do not need to fertilize a silk tree that has been planted out. If the planting ground is reasonably humus, this is sufficient as a nutrient base. If the soil is poor or heavy, it is all the more important to improve it with plenty of compost and horn shavings when planting and, if necessary, to top it up again in spring.

    In addition to the organic long-term fertilizer during the growth period, you can also use a universal liquid fertilizer in the tub culture, which you add to the irrigation water about every 2 to 4 weeks. A regular dose of compost or your own nettle manure will also do the trick.

    Fertilizer overview:

    • In outdoor cultivation only organic long-term nutrient supply
    • Provide liquid fertilizer in the bucket every 2-4 weeks during the growth period or give compost or nettle manure from time to time

    Pruning silk tree properly

    Whether you prune the silk tree depends on whether you want to keep it in shrub form or grow it into a tree. If you prefer a shrubby, more compact and lower habit, cut back the silk tree every spring. Don't go too hard, just remove long, annoying shoots. The silk tree can also tolerate a radical pruning if necessary.

    If you want to grow the silk tree into a pretty little tree - which is particularly recommended for airy and atmospheric shading of a seat - only cut out dried-up branches after the winter to give the plant a vital boost.

    To remember:

    • Silk tree can be cultivated as a shrub by regular spring pruning
    • When growing into a tree: no pruning or only pruning

    bonsai

    Due to its good pruning tolerance, the silk tree is also suitable for bonsaiists. It can easily be grown in a pot to form an artistically shaped mini tree. All common methods including wires can be used. However, you have to be careful when wiring - the wood of the silk tree is a bit soft and in combination with the fairly fast growth, wires grow in easily.
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    propagation

    You can propagate the silk tree either by cuttings or by sowing.

    cuttings

    With this tried-and-tested method, you cut top cuttings from the crown in spring, defoliate the lower area and place them in a container with potting soil. For rooting, keep the substrate evenly moist, possibly under foil. However, the ambient temperature should be relatively high, around 25°C is ideal.

    seed cultivation

    But a silk tree can also be easily propagated by seeds. You can easily get seeds from the oblong fruits themselves, which the tree develops after flowering. Extract the seeds from the fruit in autumn and dry and store in a cool, dark place over the winter. In the spring, first soak them in lukewarm water. You can also roughen the seed coats a little beforehand - this will make it easier for the seedling to "hatch".

    Place the seeds prepared in this way in planting trays with potting soil and only cover them lightly, as they germinate in the light. Place the plant bowls in a warm and bright place that is also around 25°C. Keep the substrate evenly moist. A cover with foil or a mini greenhouse for a protected microclimate is recommended.

    When the trees have reached a size of about 15 to 20 centimeters, you can transplant them, but not outdoors. You should get a lot bigger for that.
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    cultivation

    See section "Propagation - Seed Propagation"
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    Is silk tree poisonous?

    Unfortunately, the silk tree is not a completely harmless candidate for gardens of households with small children and pets. Its fruit bodies and seeds contain toxins that can be dangerous for curious garden visitors in summer and autumn.
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    tip

    In order to promote straight growth in a sapling culture, it is advisable to tie the delicate trunk to a support post after planting. However, do not use a coarse cord but a soft, wide jute ribbon to prevent ingrowth.

    sorts

    Albizia julibrissin Ombrella

    The name of the variety A. j. Ombrella is somewhat misleading in this common spelling, as it suggests a particularly shadow-affine or shadow-casting property. The spelling A.j. Umbrella provides information: The special feature of this variety is the umbrella-like growth that characterizes the crown. This in turn makes it suitable as a romantic roof for a shady spot, despite the fact that it was not named for this reason. Their long feathered leaves are very decorative with their numerous structure.

    In July and August, the pink, large clusters of flowers appear, which are slightly fragrant.

    The A.j. Ombrella can grow up to 8 m tall and needs a sunny spot. It is a little less hardy than its conspecifics and should be well protected in severe frost.

    Albizia julibrissin Summer Chocolate

    What does the variety have to do with chocolate? Quite simply: its leaves are colored in a reddish dark brown, so that it can awaken true chocolate dreams in summer. In terms of size and structure, they have the same feathery appearance as their conspecifics.

    The A.j. Summer Chocolate also blooms in July and August - with light pink to pink clusters of flowers that stand out very attractively against the brown foliage and spread a pleasant fragrance. With a maximum height of 4-6 meters, the variety is slightly smaller than the A. j. Ombrella.

    Albizia julibrissin Ernest Wilson

    This variety refreshes with the graceful color contrast of its leaves and flowers. The filigree feathered foliage is a rich, subdued dark green, against which the flowers stand out very attractively with their soft pink and a white base. The A.j. Ernest Wilson remains in a rather shrubby habit with a height of about 4 to 5 meters and a width of about 5 to 6 meters. It is interesting because of its particularly good winter hardiness for those who live in colder areas of the country.

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Trees