Almost every garden has a paved path somewhere, mostly leading from the garden gate to the front door. So that this path does not just consist of stumbling blocks at some point, you should plan it thoroughly and carefully lay it out with a solid substructure.

Skilled do-it-yourselfers can also pave a garden path themselves

How to pave your garden path

When it comes to paving your garden path, there are numerous design options available to you. You can choose to use cheap paving stones or expensive natural stones. In any case, you start your work with planning and purchasing the required material. Before the actual paving work, mark out the planned path and dig it out about 30 cm.

Do you want to curb your path or not? Since these stones are laid first and significantly widen the required excavation, you should decide on the edge design of the path during the planning stage. If you have decided on curbs, then pour the concrete foundation. Place the chosen curbs in the still damp concrete and let everything dry thoroughly.

Then lay the substructure, which consists of a frost protection layer and a leveling layer. Both should be well compacted. Lay the selected paving stones overhead, so to speak, which means you work from the area that has already been laid. The distance between each stone should be even and about 3 to 5 mm wide.

The completion of your paving work

Fill the joints with fine, dry sand. Quartz sand (15.85€) is very suitable for this. It is best to do this work on a dry day, otherwise the sand will become damp and will not work well into the joints.

Sweep the sand diagonally across the paved area until all joints are filled. With a surface vibrator you make sure that the path is nice and level and well paved. Some joints may need to be filled with sand again after shaking.

Short instructions step by step:

  • Pouring concrete foundation for curbs
  • Place curbs in the foundation
  • Add 10 to 20 cm thick gravel sand or crushed stone as frost protection and compact
  • Apply approx. 4 cm leveling layer of sand or grit (€46.95).
  • Insert paving stones, tap and grout

How do I put on the substructure?

A paved path absolutely needs a proper substructure. It is intended to prevent individual paving stones from sinking or lifting in the event of frost and thus becoming a tripping hazard. He also ensures that no weeds grow on the path. The more the path is used, the thicker the substructure should be.

The bottom layer of the substructure is the frost protection layer. It should be about 10 to 20 cm thick and consists of gravel sand or crushed stone. Remember to compact this layer well to make it stable and solid. Then apply about 4 cm of sand or grit as a leveling layer.

What tools do I need for paving?

Measure the planned path with a tape measure or folding rule. Wooden stakes and mason's cord are used to mark the route. Now dig up the path with a shovel or spade. A wheelbarrow makes it easier for you to remove the soil. You need a rubber mallet and a spirit level to lay the paving stones so that they are firmly seated and an even surface is created.

Required tools for paving:

  • Tape measure or folding rule
  • wooden pegs
  • bricklaying cord
  • shovel and/or spade
  • wheelbarrow
  • rubber mallet
  • level

tips

If you look at detailed instructions for paving on the Internet or in appropriate books, then you will save yourself subsequent changes and/or repairs to the new path.

Category:

Garden design