- Good care is based on careful preparation
- Proper planting simplifies tomato care
- Just don't rain it
- Balanced nutrient supply - this is how you avoid over-fertilization
- Cultivate tomatoes in the greenhouse - this is how it works
- tips and tricks
The hobby gardeners are happy with their own greenhouse for growing tomatoes. Bad weather doesn't put a spanner in the works here. However, proper tomato care is still important. Find out all the relevant aspects here.
Good care is based on careful preparation
While the cultivation of tomato plants in the house is in full swing in March/April, knowledgeable hobby gardeners are preparing the soil in the greenhouse. When the young plants move into the sheltered environment of the greenhouse in May, they should find nutrient-rich, loose soil. Incidentally, it doesn't bother the tomatoes if there were already conspecifics in cultivation there - quite the opposite.
- loosen the soil deeply and weed it thoroughly
- work in half-rotted compost in the dosage of 3 liters per square meter
- additionally enrich the soil with horn shavings, (32.93€) rock or algae flour and potash magnesia
- just before planting, shower the bed with horsetail broth to prevent fungal infections
Since meticulous cleanliness is very important in tomato care, all work tools and climbing aids are disinfected.
Proper planting simplifies tomato care
When tomato plants leave their nursery, they should be at least 20 to 25 centimeters tall and have 2-3 flowers. Place each plant about 6 centimeters lower than in the nursery pot. Adding a little nettle herb to the planting hole improves the starting conditions. A distance of 60 centimeters is considered ideal in order to easily reach every plant during tomato care.
Just don't rain it
Tomato watering is a little tricky given the looming threat of plant diseases. Since damp leaves immediately attract fungal spores, sprinkling from above is considered a deadly sin in tomato care. Smart home gardeners have come up with much more efficient ways to water their tomatoes in the greenhouse. Thats how it works:
- basically pour with tempered rainwater
- alternatively use stale tap water
- always water directly at the roots
- never allow the soil to dry out or completely soak
- sudden excess of water causes tomato skins to burst
So that no splashing water from the ground gets to the leaves, resourceful hobby gardeners dig in a flower pot next to the plant. This is filled with water and provides the soil with the necessary moisture. In addition, it is recommended to remove the leaves up to a height of 40 centimeters from a suitable growth height. The result is improved air circulation and a reduced risk of splashing water.
Balanced nutrient supply - this is how you avoid over-fertilization
Although tomato plants are classified as heavy feeders, this does not necessarily mean a constant supply of fertilizer at a high level. So that they do not shoot up the weed, the focus is on a reduced nitrogen supply in favor of potassium, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and lime. Organic fertilizer should be given preference in this regard.
- only fertilize very sparingly with compost until the beginning of flowering
- Work in compost every 2 weeks at the same time as the flowers begin, around July
- additionally fertilize with nettle manure, comfrey manure, guano (€121.99) horn shavings and rock flour (€14.13).
Since mulching plays an important role in tomato care, it should also be used in the greenhouse. A thick layer of comfrey leaves, straw and peeled tomato shoots is recommended. If the tomatoes still let their leaves droop or they turn pale yellow, you should not be afraid to use a commercially available liquid tomato fertilizer.
Cultivate tomatoes in the greenhouse - this is how it works
Consequent squeezing is an indispensable part of tomato care in the greenhouse. In order to be able to make optimal use of the limited space available, it makes sense to use stick tomatoes in the greenhouse. Raised on cords or climbing aids, the plants climb upwards. Meanwhile, they are constantly striving to branch out. Lateral shoots develop, which cost the plant a lot of energy.
In order for the tomato plant to invest its energy in large, juicy fruits, the stinging shoots have to give way. This measure begins in the first week after moving into the greenhouse and continues until after the harvest. Here's how to do it:
- It is advisable to wear disposable gloves
- grab the unwanted shoot in the leaf axil with your fingers and snap off
- From a height of 15 centimetres, break out the sides with your hand
confusion excluded
Even inexperienced hobby gardeners do not get into the embarrassment of accidentally removing a fruit shoot instead of a stinging shoot. The visual appearance has the following distinctive features:
- a stinging shoot grows principally precisely in the leaf axil, where the petiole branches off from the trunk
- a fruiting sprout springs directly from the trunk, directed straight ahead
tips and tricks
Since tomato plants are defoliated to prevent late blight up to a height of 40 cm, the soil in the greenhouse looks quite barren. An underplanting of marigolds and marigolds not only ensures a pretty appearance, but also has a repellent effect on pests and nematodes.