We have known their "parents", the raspberry and the blackberry, in the garden for ages. The tayberry, however, is a comparatively young hybrid. As a result, it is still a blank slate for many hobby gardeners. The following information about their optimal planting can give you a rich harvest.

The berry plant feels at home here
Before you reach for the spade, take the time to find the tayberry's favorite spot. Where would this plant willingly root if given free choice? Certainly in a place that offers you the following living conditions:
- Sun full, or at least partial shade
- much warmth
- Protection from cold and wind
The soil must be rich in humus and well drained and must not dry out too much in summer. Fortunately, with a little effort, these demands on the soil, if they are not available at the location, can be met before planting.
tips
If you don't have your own garden, then cultivate the tayberry in a large container. Nevertheless, you cannot avoid a sunny spot on the balcony, and you are also asked to put in more effort when it comes to care.
This is how the Tayberry is planted
Even if theoretically planting is possible on any frost-free day of the year. Look around for a plant in the fall or spring. These are the two seasons that are best for planting.
- After you have identified the ideal location, loosen the soil deeply and then dig a sufficiently large planting hole. It should be deeper than the ball height of the young plant.
- If the excavation is loamy, i.e. not very permeable, improve it with leaf humus and sand.
- Soak the tayberry root ball in a container of lukewarm water.
- Place the plant straight in the planting hole and bury it a little deeper than it was in the pot before.
- Spread some compost around the plant and work it into the top layer of soil.
- Water the tayberry well.
tips
If you plant several tayberries in a row, the planting distance between two specimens should be about 2 m. The ideal distance between two rows is 2.5 m.
Cut and tie after planting
The tayberry requires scaffolding to keep its tendrils from bending toward the ground. At the same time, the "thicket" is untangled by tying it up. So that the tayberry does not get in the way when erecting the scaffolding, you should ideally plan and erect it before planting. Their shoots are spread out and tied to this in a fan shape right from the start.
In the year of planting, the plant is raised with about seven shoots. Cut away the remaining rods.