Planting strawberries yourself is easy. The many arguments about the uncomplicated cultivation of the tempting summer fruits hide the fact that important criteria have to be observed. This guide familiarizes beginners with the fundamental framework and an expert approach. Here are the most important tips on when and how to plant strawberries in the garden and on the balcony.

Strawberry plants are planted in midsummer

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. the essentials in brief
  2. When is planting time?
  3. Planting Guide
  4. Planting instructions balcony
  5. Recommended Varieties
  6. location and soil
  7. soil preparation
  8. Mixed culture of strawberries
  9. Plant vertically
  10. Propagating by offshoots
  11. care tips
  12. frequently asked Questions

    13. the essentials in brief

    • Purchased young plants are best planted in summer
    • Strawberries like a sunny to half-shady location and prefer loose, humus-rich soil that allows rainwater to drain off well
    • Strawberries go well with garlic, onions, marigolds or lettuce; they should not be combined with potatoes, cucumbers, roses or tomatoes

    When is strawberry planting time?

    Strawberries pre-cultivated in pots with root balls can be planted at any time. The most important prerequisite for healthy growth and a rich harvest is that the ground must not be frozen. It also depends on the correct distance from each other of 30 centimeters in the row and about 60 centimeters between the rows.

    If you want to get the best out of your strawberry plants, a more differentiated approach comes into focus. Once-bearing strawberries lay their flower buds in the previous year when the days are getting shorter. The best time to plant purchased young plants is from mid-July to August. Plant twice-bearing garden strawberries between the beginning and middle of August.

    Everbearing strawberries bloom and fruit non-stop throughout the season. For these permanent carriers, the time window for planting in the bed and on the balcony opens in spring, ideally after the ice saints. Planting monthly strawberries in late summer or fall often results in disappointment because the plants may not produce flowers immediately. The process only gets going after a first hibernation, so that from spring onwards, everbearing strawberries live up to their name.

    background

    Buy young plants in specialist shops

    Many hobby gardeners don't have enough time to trawl through tree nurseries and garden centers in search of young plants to grow in the garden or on the balcony. There is a great temptation to randomly put the next best strawberry plants in the shopping basket at Aldi or Lidl due to a lack of time when shopping for the week. The better option is to buy young plants online from a competent specialist dealer. Experienced breeders control the entire history of their strawberry plants, test the varieties on offer every year and select the best bearers. Regular virus-free checks are a matter of course. So much quality is reflected in a slightly higher purchase price than at the discounter. In return, you will receive healthy young strawberry plants that you can send into the race in top form for a rich harvest.

    Planting strawberries - step-by-step instructions

    Strawberries need a planting distance of about 25cm

    Two weeks after preparing the soil, the bed soil has settled. Choose a mild day with dry weather as the planting date. Aside from the young strawberry plants, you will need a rake, hand shovel and water-filled bowl, and a watering can. How to properly plant strawberries in the garden:

    1. Place the root ball in soft water until no more air bubbles rise
    2. Rake and weed the soil
    3. Dig planting holes at a distance of 25-30 cm (row spacing 40-60 cm)
    4. Repot the strawberry plants and position them in the middle of the planting hole
    5. Fill in the excavated material with a shovel or hands and press down lightly
    6. Fill the watering can with rainwater and water each plant individually

    How deep to plant strawberries? This question causes headaches for many hobby gardeners when they plant strawberries themselves for the first time. In fact, the correct planting depth plays a key role. As a rule of thumb: the root ball is lightly covered with soil so that the heart of the plant is clearly visible. The image below illustrates how to do it right.

    Planting instructions for balcony gardeners

    Thanks to their modest space requirements, strawberry plants are predestined for growing in pots and window boxes. It is primarily everbearing strawberry varieties that transform the balcony into a picturesque snack garden with tireless blooms and countless bite-sized fruits. The following overview summarizes all the key data for growing strawberries on the balcony:

    • location: Sunny to semi-shady, likes to be bathed in air and without the blazing afternoon sun
    • substrate: Organic berry soil or good quality potting soil, preferably without peat
    • drainage: 5 cm high layer of expanded clay, (19.73€) potsherds or gravel under the substrate
    • vessel volume: Pots and boxes with a capacity of 5 liters or more with an opening in the bottom for water drainage
    • planting distance: 15 to 20 cm

    For a decorative touch, keep strawberries on the balcony with pretty and beneficial neighboring plants. Proven strawberry friends are violets, marigolds and marigolds. A combination of standing and hanging monthly strawberries is nice to look at and beneficial for the harvest.

    Strawberries are actually not berries, but aggregate fruits. This does not detract from the fruity enjoyment.

    Variety selection

    Varieties bred for commercial cultivation cannot hold a candle to strawberries for private cultivation. Instead of cost maximization and transport stability, more sensible attributes are in the foreground for home garden varieties, such as full-bodied aroma, juicy sweetness and uncomplicated care. The following table lists recommended varieties by name, lists outstanding properties and has tried-and-tested ideas for possible uses:

    variety name properties special feature Usage Ideas
    Senga Sengana once bearing, large, juicy fruits, strong growth traditional garden strawberry
    Ostara medium-sized fruits, high-yield best twice bearing variety Kitchen and cottage garden
    Mignonette everbearing, numerous, small strawberries, unique aroma native wild strawberry in pots, tubs, raised beds
    Hummi climbing Toni everbearing climbing strawberry deep red, juicy fruits Planter with integrated obelisk, bamboo trellis, balcony railing
    Giant Strawberry Sweet Mary once-bearing, fast-growing, runner-forming red fruits in XXL format Garden bed, country house garden, large patio planter
    Hanging Strawberry Perfume Freejumper everbearing, productive, countless small fruits tendrils up to 100 cm long Traffic light, raised bed edge, ground cover in the bed
    Malvina latest, once-bearing noble variety ideal for organic cultivation outdoors or in a large pot
    Double Pleasures everbearing, medium-sized, sweet fruits neon pink, semi-double flowers Balcony box, bed edging, small pot

    Strawberry growers with a weakness for rarities should not miss white strawberries. The furious pineapple strawberry 'Pineberry Snow White' bears white strawberries that bear red seeds in small dimples. The 2 centimeter small fruits melt on the tongue with a taste of strawberries and pineapple. The once-bearing variety is equally suitable for beds, balconies and terraces.

    digression

    Grow strawberries of the month from seed

    Everbearing strawberry varieties take up little space, thrive on the balcony and provide delicious fruit chocolates from early summer to autumn. Unlike majestic garden strawberries, the seeds of monthly strawberries germinate regardless of day length. Balcony gardeners take advantage of this property and grow young plants indoors on the bright windowsill from February at an ideal germination temperature of 17 to 20 degrees Celsius. In airy, loose coconut soil, thinly sieved with sand and kept slightly moist, light-germinating strawberry seeds are transformed into magnificent young plants by May, which you can plant outdoors, in containers or balcony boxes.

    location and soil quality

    Strawberries need lots of sun and loose soil

    Strawberries prefer a sunny location. The more sun rays caress the plants, the sweeter the fruits become. A sheltered location is an advantage. Of course, there shouldn’t be a complete calm so that the foliage dries quickly after a rain shower.

    In loose, permeable soil without the risk of waterlogging, strawberry plants fulfill all expectations of a lush fruit crop. The soil should be nutrient-rich, fresh to slightly moist and deep with an optimal pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. You can rectify minor deficits in the soil condition as part of the preparatory work without much effort.

    Soil preparation is the be-all and end-all

    A rich harvest of juicy-sweet fruits largely depends on the soil in which you plant strawberries. Two weeks before the start of the planting season, the starting signal for soil preparation is given to make the location in the bed or greenhouse palatable for garden strawberries. Here’s how to do it professionally:

    1. Dig two spades deep into the soil
    2. Remove stones, roots and coarse dirt
    3. Distribute leaf compost, deposited stable manure or humus as a 5-10 cm layer
    4. Work in fertile soil with a rake

    Please do not use conventional garden compost for the preparatory work in the strawberry bed. Numerous components from the kitchen and garden are used in the production of compost soil, which increase the salt and lime content, which sensitive strawberry roots do not like. If there is no leaf compost, stable manure or humus available, use packaged potting soil without peat from the trade.

    youtube

    Plant strawberries in mixed culture

    In the natural garden design, the variety of species reigns, which is used in a varied planting plan. Strawberry plants are the beneficiaries of a balanced mixed culture if plant neighbors are carefully selected. The following table summarizes which plants go well with strawberries and which are better kept at a distance:

    good neighbors bad neighbors
    onions potatoes
    garlic tomatoes
    tagetes roses
    Lettuce, lettuce, lamb's lettuce raspberries, blueberries
    Chives, parsley, dill Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin
    strawberries cabbage

    Explanations of the mixed culture

    If you plant strawberries and onions together, fungal diseases have a bad hand. Garlic, onions and marigolds ward off voracious snails. All kinds of salads and herbs, primarily chives, parsley, dill or chamomile, enhance aroma and taste. By combining different strawberry varieties in the bed, you improve fertility and crop yield.

    Strawberries and onions are a dream couple in the bed

    Rose plants, on the other hand, do not keep good company with strawberry plants. This applies not only to roses themselves, but also to raspberries, blueberries and other berry bushes that are part of the diverse plant family Rosaceae. Soil fungi, nematodes and wireworms spoil the joy of growing strawberries when you associate the plants with potatoes, cabbage and tomatoes. Furthermore, please avoid all vegetable plants that cast shadows on strawberry plants as neighbors in the bed, such as cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini or melons.

    Planting strawberries vertically - tips & tricks

    Imaginative balcony gardeners have discovered unorthodox planters for strawberries, such as a disused rain gutter or gutter. An extra space-saving version is in the tube to plant strawberries vertically. The following instructions may serve as your inspiration:

    material requirements

    • PVC pipe (diameter 100 to 150 mm) with matching end cap
    • PVC pipe (diameter 20mm) for irrigation with matching end cap
    • Burlap or garden fleece for waterproofing
    • hole saw or jigsaw
    • drill
    • Potting soil (ideally without peat)
    • Gravel, expanded clay or broken pottery as drainage
    • Monthly strawberries as seedlings, e.g. B. Hanging strawberries 'Mount Everest' or 'Perfume Freejumper'

    Choose a sunny, warm and wind-protected location on the balcony, terrace or in the garden for attachment. A stable wall trellis has proven itself in practice for the vertical cultivation of strawberries in the tube. Other options include mounting in a raised bed, a large tub, or just vertically in the bed with a wooden post for back support.

    Step-by-step instructions

    At the beginning, please measure the large tube at the desired height to match the selected wall mount. The inner irrigation tube should stick out 10 centimeters. How to build and plant a vertical strawberry cane:

    1. Drill holes with a diameter of 10 cm each in a staggered arrangement at a distance of 20 cm
    2. first hole 20 cm above the lower end and 10 cm below the upper end of the tube
    3. Attach the end cap at the bottom
    4. cut thin irrigation pipe
    5. Perforate the middle section of the pipe with small holes
    6. Wrap pipe with burlap to protect against ingrown roots
    7. fix with wire vertically and centrally in the large tube
    8. Attach the end cap at the bottom
    9. Fill the bottom with a 10 cm high drainage made of gravel, expanded clay or clay scissors
    10. Fill in the substrate up to the first hole
    11. Plant strawberry seedling

    Please place a strawberry plant in each planting hole in the tube. When planting, be careful not to cover the heart of the plant with soil. To water, let water slowly run from the watering can into the watering pipe from above.

    youtube

    Propagate in time with offshoots

    Strawberry plants thrive as perennials with a temporary capacity. After maximum yields in the second and third year, the plants have passed their peak in the fourth year of cultivation. Fruit quality and crop yield now leave something to be desired, so moving to a new location is strongly recommended. Alternatively, you can plant purchased young plants. Forward-thinking strawberry gardeners mark the floral top forces and use their most vital offshoots for propagation at no cost. This is how the plan works:

    • In the 2nd year, mark particularly high-yielding strawberry plants with wooden sticks
    • select a healthy cutting that grows closest to the mother plant
    • Lift cuttings out of the ground with a hand shovel without separating it from the mother plant
    • Dig in the clay pots and fill them with the surrounding garden soil
    • Lay offshoots on the substrate, press and water

    While the mother plant continues to provide nutrients to its offshoot, its own root system forms in the pot. If you feel resistance after a few weeks of pulling, the separation can take place. Lift the pot with the young plant out of the ground. As a new location, please choose a sunny, nutrient-rich spot in the bed where there were previously no strawberries or rose plants.

    tips

    Strawberries belong to the diverse plant family of the rose family. This assignment makes knowledgeable hobby gardeners sit up and take notice, because there is a risk of soil fatigue. Affected plants suffer from growth depression, visibly wither and hardly bear fruit. You can reliably avoid the problem of reproduction with a cultivation break of four years between the individual strawberry crops.

    care tips

    Straw protects against weeds and prevents the strawberries from lying on the ground and rotting

    If young strawberry plants are growing or if there is no rain, you should patrol with the watering can daily. The care program also includes regular weeding. Avoid using the garden rake to avoid damaging the shallow roots. Instead, simply pluck out weeds. Mulching with dried lawn clippings or straw will suppress brazen weeds and prevent ripening fruit from lying on the ground.

    After the end of the harvest season, clear away the layer of straw. Now is the best time to cut back. Cut off all runners that are not used for propagation. Remove all leaves as pathogens may have accumulated on them. The valuable plant heart remains unmolested by the scissors. Always fertilize your strawberries after harvest, as this is when the buds for next year are being laid. To do this, loosen the soil a little, remove the remaining weeds and spread an organic berry fertilizer. (€3.94)

    Although strawberry plants are reliably hardy, we recommend a light winter protection in the bed.A fleece cover or a thick layer of mulch made from leaf compost or autumn leaves is well suited. Cover pots, tubs and balcony boxes (€109.00) with strawberry plants with jute, fleece or bubble wrap. Place the jars in a sheltered wall niche on wood or a similar insulating material.

    background

    The Strawberry Family

    Strawberries with the botanical name Fragaria belong to the diverse rose family. The well-known wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) is native to Europe, and its tiny fruits have been inviting hikers to nibble since the Stone Age. It was not until the middle of the 18th century that large-fruited garden strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) were successfully bred as a cross between the two American species, the scarlet strawberry (Fragaria virginiana) and the Chilean strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis).

    Both the local wild strawberry and its American relatives were and still are the inspiration for the breeding of delicious varieties. As a result, home gardeners and patio gardeners can indulge in a lavish selection for cultivation in beds and planters. The following overview summarizes the essential similarities and outstanding differences relevant to cultivation:

    similarities

    • herbaceous, hardy perennials
    • evergreen, stalked leaves
    • mainly runners with white or yellowish flowers from May
    • Growth heights from 10 to 40 cm
    • mostly self-fertile
    • False fruits in the form of aggregate fruits (seeds on the fruit skin)

    Cultivation-relevant differences

    • once bearing: large-fruited variety of American species, flowering in the previous year, harvest time in May and June
    • bearing twice: flowering plant in the previous year, harvest in May and June and August and September
    • everbearing: small-fruited variety of native forest strawberries, flowering without cold stimulus, continuous flowering and harvest from May to October

    frequently asked Questions

    What can you plant between strawberries?

    For garden strawberries, a row spacing of 40 to 60 centimeters has proven to be good for a comfortable harvest. At the same time, this distance offers sufficient space for the cultivation of other useful plants in the sense of an advantageous mixed culture. Recommended planting neighbors for strawberries are onions, garlic, chives, marigolds, parsley and lemon balm, because they are also a natural bulwark against diseases and pests.

    When can you plant strawberries?

    The best time to plant strawberries in the bed is from mid-July to mid-August. At this time, garden centers and online retailers offer a wide range of high-quality varieties for growing in the garden. If you prefer twice-bearing garden strawberries, the window for planting opens between August and September. Plant monthly strawberries for the balcony in spring, when the danger of frosty nights has passed by mid-May.

    Which strawberry varieties can I plant and harvest in the same year?

    Classic garden strawberries are planted in autumn because a cold stimulus combined with short days is required for flower induction in the heart of the plant. Only after a cold phase in winter do the plants give you juicy-sweet fruits from early summer. This shortcoming is circumvented with Frigo strawberries, which are subjected to an artificial cold stimulus by a specialist. Frigo varieties planted in spring bear the first fruits after an average of 10 weeks. Long-bearing varieties, such as monthly strawberries and wild strawberries, don't care about the cold and length of the day. Planted in the spring after the ice saints, you can still snack on tasty little strawberries in the same year.

    Should I replant strawberries every year for a premium quality harvest?

    By far the most popular strawberries are referred to as one-bearing varieties. This classification does not refer to the life span, but refers to the harvest period from May to June. Strawberry plants thrive as hardy perennials that will provide you with tasty summertime fruit for several years. In fact, the plants reach the peak of fertility and yield in the second and third year. Replanting should only be considered from the fourth year if you want to keep the crop yield at a high level.

    Do they really exist, black strawberries?

    In fact, strawberry plants with black fruits are the innovative variety 'Nerina'. However, the strawberries do not turn black, but turn dark red when fully ripe. 'Narina' is one of the once-bearing garden strawberries with a late ripening period from the end of June. The best time to plant this rarity is between mid-July and early August if you are aiming for a rich harvest of the particularly aromatic strawberries in the following year.

    Can I still plant strawberries in September?

    Strawberry plants depend on a number of warm days so that they can root well in the soil. Without sufficient rooting, the perennials are vulnerable to frost despite their natural winter hardiness. The time window for growth is only open long enough if you plant by mid-August at the latest. Otherwise, there is a high risk that the valuable plants will rot in the ground. This premise applies to all once-bearing garden strawberries. If you missed the autumn planting date, plant everbearing monthly strawberries or Frigo plants next spring, which will bear the first fruits a few weeks later.

    tips

    The best time of day for the strawberry harvest is the morning when the weather is dry. Harvest fully colored fruits with a plump skin that gives slightly when pressed lightly. Always pick a strawberry complete with the stalk and green sepals. This harvesting technique guarantees that the sweet juice does not leak.

Category:

Vegetable garden