The topic of pruning a clematis is controversial among gardeners. We looked around among recognized experts and put together useful tips. Here you will find help in deciding whether to cut back a clematis or not.

Don't cut back spring bloomers

It is the vital wild species, such as Clematis alpina or Clematis montana, that do not necessarily require pruning. If you choose the wrong time, in the worst case you will rob the magnificent clematis of this year's abundance of flowers. Early flowering clematis buds in the previous year. How to properly handle the cut if necessary:

  • Shorten tendrils that are too long on spring-blooming clematis only after they have bloomed
  • Otherwise, only clean out withered flowers and seed heads that are forming
  • A rejuvenation cut every 4-5 years prevents senescence

A light summer cut is recommended here

Double-flowering hybrids, like the majestic clematis 'The President', welcome light pruning after the first bloom. To do this, cut off all withered flowers including the pair of leaves underneath in June. The clematis thanks you with another bloom after 6-8 weeks.

Summer bloomers require bold pruning

They bloom incessantly from June until well into autumn and develop an impressive habit. The mighty summer bloomers among the clematis species produce long tendrils anew every year, on which they bloom lavishly. In order for Clematis viticella and its conspecifics to perform this miracle, pruning is crucial. That is how it goes:

  • Prune late-blooming clematis every fall
  • Shorten the entire clematis to 20-30 centimeters in November/December
  • Carefully clip all deadwood at the base

Anyone who does not radically cut back this clematis will sooner or later be confronted with an overgrown clematis. Since light and air can no longer get inside the climbing plant, the shoots bare to become sad sticks.

tips and tricks

With a freshly planted clematis, the question does not arise as to whether it should be cut back or not. A pruning in November or December of the planting year is indispensable here. To do this, cut back all tendrils to 20 or 30 centimeters. The result is a vigorously sprouting, densely branching climber next year.

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