In the realm of mother nature, trees can grow freely because they have almost unlimited space available. Garden trees, on the other hand, are assigned special functions that they have to fulfill in a limited space. For this reason, gardeners opt for special cultivated forms that bloom magnificently, wear a decorative spherical crown, bring a rich harvest of juicy fruits or convince with other attributes. This tutorial invites you to take a stroll through species-appropriate pruning of deciduous trees, conifers and fruit trees.

How much pruning a tree needs depends on many factors

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of pruning deciduous trees
  2. Pruning deciduous trees
  3. Pruning of deciduous trees
  4. Rejuvenation pruning deciduous trees
  5. Pruning care conifers
  6. Fruit tree pruning 5 best tips
  7. Tree Pruning Basics
  8. tool
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. Deciduous trees benefit from the right pruning at any age - an overview

    Deciduous trees are the ace up a gardener's sleeve when the garden design calls for a representative eye-catcher. From majestic wild species to small cultivars, there is the ideal house tree for every garden size. If pruning care begins at a young age and continues regularly, trees in old age remain just as easy to care for as they are unbreakable. The following table lists the most important types of cuts with information on the desired cutting goal and the best dates:

    Types of pruning deciduous trees goal/occasion best appointment
    build-up cut Education of the ideal growth form with densely leafy crown in the first 5 to 10 years in late winter
    maintenance cut Preserve the shape of the crown, control growth, promote vitality and willingness to flower Late winter from January to early March
    taper cut revitalize old deciduous tree November to February

    With the exception of a few early-blooming ornamental trees and fruit trees, summer has had its day as the central pruning time for trees and shrubs. Scientific studies and field trials lasting several years have shown that trees and hedges cope better with a cut in late winter. Slight grooming cuts should take place around St. John's Day (June 24). At this time, most plant species take a short break in growth.

    Growing and educating young deciduous trees - this is how it works

    A deciduous tree at its best presents itself with a slender, straight trunk and a harmoniously shaped, densely leafed crown. The crown itself consists of a scaffolding system. To a taut upright center drive are 4 to 6 leading branches arranged, where side branches form. This structure is maintained throughout life and should be nurtured with care. As the figure below shows, the aim of pruning in the first few years is to build up the perfect treetop. How to do it right:

    • The best time is in late winter, just in time before they sprout
    • Center drive with 5 to 7 skeleton drives during the build-up phase don't cut back
    • Instead the Slim shoot tipsby removing superfluous side shoots
    • Cut off shoots that compete steeply upwards with the crown structure at the base

    If cheeky shoots sprout from the trunk below the crown, remove these as well. The same applies to steep wild shoots from the root area. If trees are grafted on a wild rootstock, they can water shots form, which compete with the noble crown for nutrients. By doing wild shoots tear out, remove the last bits of tissue from which they could grow again.

    Do not cut back the central shoot and leading branches while the crown is developing. Instead, slim down the shoot tips without removing the top buds. Thin out competing shoots that are pointing steeply upwards towards the skeletal branches.

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    Knowing the growth law for top support gives security when pruning trees

    With the growth pruning, the top buds of the crown center shoot and leading branches are for good reason not cut. One of three fundamental laws of growth states that trees grow strongest from their top buds. This applies equally to the trunk, central shoot and every branch or twig. Because the tips travel fastest towards the sun, plants forcefully pump their juices upwards. On deeper-lying buds, the juice pressure is reduced the greater the distance to the respective top bud. Only cut off top buds as part of the crown development when all shoot types have reached the desired length.

    Pruning and pruning keep deciduous trees vital and well-formed

    Well trained trees are spared from scissors and saws in the first few years. Regular checks point out in good time the necessary pruning measures, such as cutting back shoots that are too long or removing dead wood. The aim of the shape and thinning cut is a beautifully shaped, light-flooded crown with dense foliage and the control of length and height growth. The figure below shows the before and after comparison of a competent pruning using the chestnut tree as an example. This is how your trees stay vital and beautiful:

    • Thin out the treetops thoroughly in late winter every 4 to 6 years
    • Saw off dead branches on the Astring
    • Remove competing shoots to the leading branches and any branches pointing inwards
    • Do not leave hooked stubs
    • Branches that are too long or protruding from the crown shape are diverted to a side shoot that is lower down
    • Cut or tear off wild shoots from the trunk and tree disc

    There is not always a side shoot to derive the too long branch from it. Shorten the shoot to the desired length with a cut on buds. With this cutting technique, you don't cut anywhere, but in a targeted manner. Position the pruning shears a few millimeters above an outward-facing bud or pair of buds. In this way, you can already show the fresh shoots the right direction of growth.

    Many trees are only pruned and thinned out every 4 to 6 years. Branches that are too long lead you to a younger side shoot. Cut off dead, weak branches and branches pointing towards the inside of the crown on the Astring. Shoots sprouting below the crown or from the tree pit are removed.

    Shrink trees that are too big, don't just cut them

    The growth of native trees is often underestimated. Within a few years, the growth rockets burst the existing space capacity. Cutting trees that are too far is taboo. The radical measure destroys the natural habit and leaves behind large wounds that no longer close. Ultimately, rot spreads and the entire tree becomes unstable.

    To reduce the size of a deciduous tree, we recommend one moderate Thinning and shaping. In late winter, remove deadwood and any branches that are not part of the crown structure. Remaining shoots that are too long can be diverted to a side shoot that is further back. Strongly branched tips of the leading branches are slimmed down. Repeat recommended cut care every 3 to 5 years, your tree will become noticeably smaller while still retaining its natural shape.

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    Popular spherical trees thrive without a dominant central shoot. A classic example is the maple cultivar 'Globosum'. In order to preserve the round crown shape, subject these trees to a shape and thinning cut every 2 to 3 years in late autumn. Thin out dead wood and shorten the remaining branches by a third.

    Revitalize old deciduous trees - this is how the rejuvenation pruning succeeds

    If pruning is neglected over many years, deciduous trees will become bare and old into an unsightly undergrowth. A rejuvenating pruning can fix the problem on various deciduous and fruit trees. Since the extent of the cut goes far beyond the normal maintenance cut, a rejuvenation should only be in exceptional cases be performed. Please inquire in advance with your trusted tree nursery whether your tree is suitable for the subsequent revitalization. Here’s how to do it professionally:

    • The best time is during the leafless period from November to the end of February
    • Thin out dead branches on a ring beforehand
    • Do the same with weak, unfavorably positioned and inward-growing shoots
    • Remaining leading branches divert by a third or half to a younger side shoot
    • Shorten aged leading branches to 10 to 20 centimeters long cones

    The illustration below uses an old pear tree as an example to demonstrate how regeneration works. Ultimately, what remains is a basic framework of central shoots, leading branches with a few side shoots. The more old branches you can transfer to young shoots, the more successful the revitalization will be. Where no deflection is possible, cut the branch back to a 10 to 20 centimeter spigot. This dries back a bit in the period that follows. After some time, fresh shoots will sprout from the base and the dried tissue is removed.

    An old pear tree is one of the deciduous trees that can cope with a radical rejuvenation pruning. Shorten all leading branches by half. Thin out dead wood, weak and awkwardly standing branches on a ring. Strong growth sets in, which is controlled by regular shape and maintenance pruning.

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    The Federal Nature Conservation Act has the last word on the cutting time

    As you've read this tutorial, you'll have noticed that more extensive pruning operations are limited to wintertime. If you heed the recommendation, you are following the requirements of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. According to Article 39, trees may generally be pruned from October 1st to February 28th. This applies to pruning, putting on the stick and other deep pruning measures. The reason is to protect wild animals that raise their offspring during the summer. Mainly native bird species like to nest in treetops, hedges and bushes. Therefore, during the summer grace period, light pruning of trees and shrubs of all kinds is permitted, provided that no animals are harmed.

    Rarely cut conifers - instructions for cutting care

    When pruning conifers, gardening reservations are quite appropriate. In fact, most conifers are noticeably more sensitive to pruning than deciduous trees. If trees have needles instead of leaves, they no longer sprout from old wood. The main reason is the refusal to plant dormant eyes along the shoots as an “iron reserve” in case active parts of the plant fail. In order to cut pine, cypress or fir trees, the following premises must be observed:

    • Conifers always in green needled area trimming
    • Never shorten or remove scaffolding shoots in the area without needles
    • Curb growth with a light pruning in June (St. John's Day)
    • Branches that are too long divert to a shorter, densely needled side branch

    a radical one taper cut answer conifers with one total failure. The only exception are yew trees, which, if necessary, will forgive you a cut into the old wood and a rejuvenation cut.

    Direct shoots on conifers that are too long to a shorter side branch. If two shoots face each other, as in a fir tree, slim down the new top to a single, well-needled shoot.

    Pruning fruit trees is not a closed book - the 5 best tips

    The professional pruning of fruit trees goes beyond the pruning of ornamental deciduous trees. So that the trees are not just one beautiful crown form, but one rich fruit harvest bring, important premises must be observed. The following 5 tips will make you more familiar with the basics of pruning fruit trees:

    Prune fruit trees in winter

    The time of pruning has a significant influence on growth. The earlier you prune a fruit tree in winter, the stronger it will sprout in spring. Since weaker growth is conducive to flowering and fruiting, fast-growing apple and pear trees should be pruned in late winter. Aim for vigorous growth on young fruit trees, prune as early as October or November.

    Thin out dense crowns in good time

    Deadwood is poison for a vital fruit tree. Dead branches shade the valuable fruitwood, reducing the number of flowers and fruits. Therefore, thin out the crowns of your trees regularly. An old gardener's adage says you can throw a hat through a cut fruit tree and it will fall to the ground. Of course, the old rule should not be taken quite so literally. Act according to the rule of thumb: the more airy the crown, the larger and juicier the fruit.

    Note the juice scale

    The classic fruit tree crown is shaped as a pyramid. A continuous central shoot carries three to four main branches. In order for the crown to develop evenly, compliance with the juice scale is important. The top buds of the leading branches must be at the same level so that they grow evenly. At the same time, their distance from the top bud of the main trunk must not be too great. Prune a fruit tree so that the center shoot tip is about 20 centimeters longer than the main branches, as illustrated below.

    The top buds of the leading branches must be at the same level. If the crown of the fruit tree is in the juice scale, it will bear fruit faster.

    Steep branches bear no fruit

    The laws of growth teach us that a shoot pointing steeply upwards has no thought of budding for flowering. Instead, leaves constantly sprout, which are important for the formation of reserve substances. Flowers and fruits only form when the shoot begins to grow in an inclined to horizontal direction. Do not simply cut off steep branches on fruit trees. Tie down the shoots or hang small weights from them to direct growth into a flatter position. The first flowers and fruits will not be long in coming.

    Regularly rejuvenate fruit wood

    Popular fruit trees, like apple and pear, bear the juiciest fruit on biennial flowering branches. Over time, the shoots age and hang to the ground. To encourage trees to produce young fruiting wood, divert old wood to a slanting or horizontal shoot. Cut off worn fruiting wood where a young shoot garnished with flower buds branches off.

    Basics of tree pruning - basics of pruning technique

    Common editing techniques have already been discussed in this tutorial. The following overview explains important cuts in more detail in a practical way and suitable for beginners:

    derivative cut

    It plays a key role in construction and maintenance cutting. You will prune your trees properly at any age if you are familiar with derivative pruning. The main advantage is that you don't simply cut branches that are too long or in an unfavorable position, but redirect on a conveniently positioned young side shoot. As illustrated below, cut exactly where the old and young branches fork.

    The species-specific crown shape of your trees is preserved if you divert branches that are too long or unfavorable to a younger side shoot below.

    Cut on knots

    Older trees sometimes make it necessary to thin out dead main branches. In order for deciduous trees to survive the intervention unscathed, the branch ring must not be damaged. A knot ring can be recognized as a small or thick bulge at the transition from branch to trunk. It contains valuable tissue that is later responsible for wound healing. Please position the saw so that you can short distance cut to the astring down and out. The figure below shows the correct and incorrect procedure.

    When shortening a shoot, make the cut 3 to 5 millimeters above an outward-facing bud. Do not cut into a bud or leave a stub more than 1 centimeter long.

    Cut thick branches in stages

    If branches are thicker than an arm or particularly heavy, there is a risk of breakage when cutting in one go. The result is serious damage to the tree. The danger is averted if you use thick branches in stages to cut. As shown in the figure below, proceed as follows:

    • Start at a distance of 40 to 50 centimeters from the actual cutting point
    • Position the saw on the underside and cut to the middle
    • Support the branch with your free hand at a safe distance from the saw blade
    • Make the next cut with the saw 10 to 20 centimeters away from the top of the branch
    • Saw until the branch breaks through

    The last stage is dedicated to the remaining stump. Saw this off on Astring. Finally, smooth the cut with a knife.

    Thick knots are removed step by step and on a ring. First saw the branch from below 40 to 50 centimeters away from the actual cutting point. Shift the saw slightly to cut from above until the branch breaks. Saw off the remaining stump on the Astring.

    The right tool for pruning trees - tips on scissors and saws

    You can trim thin branches of your trees with pruning shears, optionally as bypass or anvil shears. You can easily cut thicker branches with a diameter of 2 to 3 centimeters with two-handed pruning shears. If you use a model with a ratchet mechanism, the scissors can often be up to 4 centimeters thick. The pruning saw is used from a diameter of 4 centimeters. Folding saws have the advantage that they are easy to handle even in densely branched crowns. The hacksaw is the precursor to the chainsaw. With this tool you work on tension and pressure, so that you can handle even really thick branches.

    frequently asked Questions

    How much distance should be kept to the garage and house wall when planting deciduous trees? We plan to plant a row of Norway maple 'Globosum' with a trunk height of 220 centimetres.

    Like all maple species, ball maple thrives as shallow roots. The roots spread mostly horizontally and less vertically. The diameter of the spherical crown always corresponds to the diameter of the root disk, even in later years. If you aim for a crown diameter of 5 meters as part of pruning, you should plant the trees at a distance of 250 centimeters from the garage and house wall.

    3 years ago we planted a cupcake tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) in the flower bed, which is now growing over our heads. With a height of more than 3 meters, it is oversized in this location, so we want to transplant it. When is the best time? What to look out for

    Most trees can easily be relocated within the first 5 years. This also applies to exotic species such as the cake tree. The best time is after the leaves have fallen in autumn, when the tree goes into its winter dormancy. Cutting back the crown by a third or half makes it easier to grow later at the new location. The more root volume is preserved, the better the chances of success. A generous water supply is important in the first few weeks.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Trees with stunted, senile crowns, without flowers, leaves or fruit are usually victims of pruning errors. In order to save you from typical misunderstandings in tree pruning, please take a look at the following table. The 3 most common mistakes when pruning deciduous, coniferous and fruit trees with tips for prevention in a nutshell:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Tip of central shoot or leading branches cut off misshapen crown, premature end of growth in height and length When pruning, do not trim the top buds, but slim them down
    Crown never cleared bare tree crown without leaves, blossoms and fruit, premature senescence Thin out dead wood regularly
    Cut into the old wood on the conifer Conifer without green needles, total failure Always cut coniferous trees in the green area

    Another common mistake worries home gardeners, even if they prune their trees perfectly. We are talking about dirty, blunt pruning shears and saws. Statistics have proven beyond a doubt that neglected blades and saw blades are the main reason for the spread of diseases and pests after pruning. Sharpen and disinfect Always use the tool before you prune your trees.

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    tips

    Tree roots need air. Plant your deciduous or coniferous tree in a paved area, the soil should be well aerated. Enrich the soil with crushed stone, gravel or lava granules.(13.99€) Structurally stable soil additives guarantee that the root strands do not run out of air, even under paving stones.

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Trees