The wisteria inspires as a superlative climbing shrub with furious blooms and exuberant growth. You can keep uncontrolled proliferation in check with consistent cutting care. This tutorial will make you familiar with all types of pruning on Wisteria: from skillful training to perfect maintenance and successful regeneration. How to properly cut wisteria on climbing aids and as a standard.

Winter is the best time to remove deadwood

Table of Contents

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  1. cutting work and deadlines
  2. education cut
  3. summer cut
  4. winter pruning
  5. taper cut
  6. Training cut standard
  7. frequently asked Questions

    8. Green light for many types of cuts

    A distinct one cut tolerance makes it possible to control the rapid and sprawling growth of a wisteria. From an early age, the Asian growth rocket gives its gardener the green light for a strategic training pruning. Keep adult wisteria in check with a maintenance cut in a double pack. Even the radical rejuvenation pruning shows the wisteria well-behaved. So much pruning tolerance encourages creative gardeners to train as a spectacular standard. The following table summarizes all types of cuts with recommended dates:

    cut type goal/occasion Appointment Option I Appointment option II
    Educational cut climbing aid strategic construction on pergola and trellis February Late Summer (August/September)
    summer cut Throttle growth, create order in the branch network two months after the end of the flowering period none
    winter pruning Maintaining vitality and young blossom wood, thinning out dead wood late January to late February none
    taper cut revitalize neglected, senile wisteria Late winter to early March none
    Upbringing Standard Grow wisteria to tree late January to late February Late Summer (August/September)

    Please only decide to plant a wisteria in your garden if you have enough time to cut it back twice a year. Wisteria comes with a vehement growth of up to 2 meters a year. The climbing artist can easily crush drainpipes, bend balcony railings and tear climbing aids out of their anchorage. Regular, strategically clever pruning slows down growth, reduces weight and directs the mighty tendrils into a harmonious, balanced design.

    Training cut - tailor-made for pergola and trellis

    After planting, it takes a few years for wisteria to flower for the first time. Wisteria grown from seed sometimes takes eight years to flower. If you don't want to wait that long, you can plant varieties that have been grafted or grown from cuttings. The young bushes bloom earlier and more profusely. On the way to the first flowering period, pruning care is devoted to one tailor-made education. The goal is to build one framework, which lasts a lifetime and bears the short blossom wood. Regardless of the chosen growth form, it takes three to five years to erect the scaffolding.

    The cut depends on whether you are growing the wisteria on a pergola or on a trellis as a green facade. Direct growth in the right direction from the start. This can be achieved with just a few, clearly defined scaffolding shoots, which you gradually lengthen over the first three to five years. The flower buds for the next year are always planted by a wisteria in the summer of the previous year on the new shoots that sprout from the persistent scaffolding shoots. Release the creeper without education granted, you will be at odds with one within a few years impenetrable tangle from twisted shoots. The expert training on pergola and trellis is explained in more detail below:

    Education on pergola and rose arch

    • Select the two strongest shoots as future skeletal shoots
    • Attach to the climbing aid with plant ties
    • Extend each scaffold shoot by a maximum of 100 centimeters in February
    • Loosen and reconnect the drive extensions after the cut

    Extend the main shoot by about 1 meter per year. For this purpose, in February, prune last year's growth to the desired length. Make a targeted cut at a short distance to a bud. In this way, you cause a sap accumulation below the cutting point, which encourages your Wisteria to form side branches. After training, pruning leads to a double maintenance cut on the side branches, as explained in more detail in this tutorial.

    Education on the wall trellis

    • Attach the wall trellis at least 15 centimeters away from the facade
    • Determine the strongest drive as the leading drive
    • Shorten the leader to a height of 70 to 90 centimetres
    • Apply scissors just above a strong eye
    • Remove all side shoots
    • Fasten the shortened leader to the wall trellis

    In the first summer of the training phase, leave two side shoots that you attach to the wall trellis at an angle of 45 degrees. Cut off all other side shoots. Prune the leading shoot itself every winter in such a way that it grows a maximum of 100 centimeters longer each year. In proportion to the growth in height, direct the next pair of side branches diagonally upwards in summer. Shorten all branches of the side shoots to 15 centimeters. All other shoots along the leader are removed. Follow this strategy until the wisteria has enough pairs of side shoots to fill the wall trellis. It is important to note that you courageously remove all superfluous side shoots so that a clear structure develops and the plant does not become too heavy for the supporting trellis.

    Summer pruning slows growth

    Two months after the end of flowering, it is high time to organize a wisteria's shoot network and encourage the formation of new flower buds. As illustrated in the figure below, the side shoots are the focus of the pruning shears. How to complete the perfect summer cut:

    • Cut back side shoots to a length of 30 to 50 centimeters
    • Scissors begin a few millimeters above an outward-facing bud
    • Unwind trimmed shoots from the trellis and tie again
    • In the following period, manually break out green shoots that are sprouting from the cutting point

    When pruning in summer, please keep in mind the desired structure of a few main branches with selected side shoots. When a leading branch has reached the desired length, prune the shoot tip as if it were a side shoot. After pruning, mulch the soil with compost or bark humus.

    Pruning Wisteria in the summer will stunt growth and encourage budding. Shorten all this year's side shoots to 30 to 50 centimeters.

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    Remove water shoots promptly - tips about the unpopular drive type

    The most magnificent wisteria are the result of successful refinement. Premium varieties such as 'Blue Dream', 'Pink Ice' or 'Macrobotrys' thrive on a robust wild base. When a substrate pushes through, strong-growing wild shoots sprout skywards, which are called water shoots in technical jargon. Water shoots compete with the precious part for nutrients and water. At the same time, they strive with all their might to overgrow the noble variety. Remove wild shoots consistently and promptly. The unwanted shoots can be identified by a different leaf shape and a place of origin near the ground.

    Winter pruning promotes abundance of flowers

    After the summer pruning, the wisteria lays flower buds for the next year. These are located at the base of shortened side shoots and are initially inconspicuous and hardly recognizable. That changes by late winter. From February, young flower buds swell conspicuously and are clearly distinguishable from leaf and shoot buds. Between the end of January and the end of February/beginning of March is the optimal time window for winter pruning. As the figure below demonstrates, the process facilitates professional cutting. How to do it right:

    • Thin out all dead, weak or frozen branches beforehand
    • Shoots already shortened in summer prune again except for 2 or 3 buds
    • Shorten scaffold shoots with the desired final height down to 10 centimeters from last year's growth
    • Result: Over the years, formation of thickened heads with valuable blossom wood

    The thickened heads are the starting point for short shoots. At the base of these spurs are the longed-for flower buds. At least for 10 to 15 years, the thickenings remain vital and spared from pruning measures. After this time, these heads age and are locally rejuvenated with the help of a derivation. Cut off stagnant branches where a young spur branches off. If a dense, senile tuft has formed, remove it completely.

    Winter pruning requires courageous action. Cut back all side shoots from the previous year to 10 centimeters. Heads that are old after 10 to 15 years are removed or diverted to young shoots close to the skeleton.

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    Pruning time influences the strength of growth

    The timing of pruning Wisteria affects the intensity of subsequent growth. The later in the year you cut a wisteria, the more reserve substances have already been released from the rootstock into twigs and branches. This results in reduced juice pressure and the new shoots are correspondingly weaker. Conversely, the earlier you cut, the stronger the budding will be. Undergo a wisteria im February a maintenance cut, the wisteria reacts with a striking stronger growth, as in late summer, if the cut care is aimed at one anyway growth sedation.

    Rejuvenate neglected wisteria

    Let gardeners have a wisteria without cutting care granted, an impenetrable one emerges within a few years thicket with a few flower clusters. That's no reason to uproot the Asian flower miracle. With a radical rejuvenating pruning, turn back time on your wisteria and rebuild the vine. This is how the plan works:

    • The best time is in late winter during the months of December to February
    • Before cutting, check Wisteria for overwintering animals and cut later if necessary
    • Remove all branches except for two suitable scaffold shoots
    • Shorten side shoots along the remaining skeleton shoots to 10 centimeters
    • The tips of the scaffolding shoots lead to a young side shoot in the lower half

    How deep you cut back the two remaining scaffolding shoots depends largely on the type and variety it is. If you rejuvenate a grafted wisteria, the graft site must not be removed. As a rule, the neuralgic point is about 50 centimeters above the trunk. If in doubt, please ask the nursery where the plant came from.

    Rejuvenate wisteria in winter

    A makeover cut in summer is taboo. To protect breeding birds, the Federal Nature Conservation Act prohibits radical cuts on all kinds of trees and shrubs. The central one closed season extends from March 1st to September 30th. Slight care cuts, such as the summer cut on wisteria, are exceptionally permitted because only this year's growth is trimmed. The legislature permits radical measures such as regeneration and thinning out from October 1st to February 28th, if it is ruled out in advance that wild animals will not overwinter in the woods.

    A radical rejuvenating cut regulates missed cut care. Two skeletal shoots remain, the side shoots of which are cut back to 10 centimeters.

    tips

    A vigorous pruning will inevitably leave large cuts on an old wisteria. Wound closure has become obsolete in the modern home garden. According to well-founded research, plants' own healing methods outperform any wound sealant with tree wax.(12.96€) Smooth out larger cuts with a knife and let your wisteria do the rest.

    Upbringing to the high trunk

    A wisteria thrives as a strong-growing liana with thick branches that are suitable for the tree trunk. Over the years, the lignification progresses so intensively that support is no longer required. Creative home gardeners take advantage of this characteristic of wisteria to train the climbing plant into a spectacular tree. A grafted young plant offers the best starting point because it flowers earlier and more luxuriantly than a pure Wisteria species. How to proceed correctly step by step:

    • Tie the strongest central shoot to a support post as a tree trunk
    • For braiding later, choose two or three strong ground shoots and fix them to a support
    • Remove all remaining shoots
    • Stem shoots on the support post guide up to the desired height
    • Only cut off the top of the trunk when the top bud is 4 to 6 buds above the base of the crown
    • Cut off side shoots below the crown at the base

    An ideal Wisteria standard thrives with a strong (optionally braided) trunk and a crown of four to six main branches. Until a crown branch has reached the required diameter, use a strong wire to direct the growth in the desired direction and shape. During the training phase, cut off all side shoots to promote growth. The wire can only be removed when a crown branch can bear the weight of short shoots and flower clusters. Prune the side shoots of the crown branches twice a year, as is recommended for climbing plants. The only difference is the winter cut. Do not shorten the side shoots that were pruned in summer to 2 or 3 buds, but to 1 or 2 buds, or a length of 5 centimetres.

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    Cutting wisteria with bypass or anvil shears?

    A good secateurs is the gardener's faithful companion when cutting wisteria. The store shelves are crammed full of one-handed scissors, which mainly differ in terms of the bypass and anvil mechanisms. Bypass shears work with two sharp blades and are ideal for summer pruning of this year's green shoots. The anvil scissors work with a sharp edge that meets a blunt counterpart. This mechanism reduces the effort required and is perfect for winter pruning of woody or dead branches.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is wisteria poisonous?

    Wisteria contains various ingredients that are toxic to humans and animals. Bark and roots are permeated by toxic Wistarin, which is absorbed through the skin. Wearing long-sleeved clothing and gloves is strongly recommended when cutting. Lectin in pods and seeds can cause severe headaches after consumption, as well as vomiting, nausea and abdominal pain. If larger amounts get into the human organism, it can lead to circulatory collapse and cardiac arrest. Since the pods burst with a loud bang, children are magically attracted to them. Wisteria is therefore not recommended for the family garden.

    Are there differences to note between Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)?

    Chinese wisteria conquers climbing aids as a left-hand climbing artist. Shoots of the Wisteria sinensis thus wind counterclockwise. The up to 50 centimeters long, seductively fragrant flower panicles shine from May to June, even before the pretty pinnate leaves sprout. On the other hand, a Japanese wisteria thrives as a right-handed climbing plant. Wisteria floribunda therefore winds clockwise. The wisteria species blooms between April and early June with 30 to 50 centimeter long flower clusters, while the leaves sprout at the same time. In terms of cut care, however, the differences are not significant.

    Can you pull the wisteria up with a braided main stem or will the plant turn out by itself? Does braiding require 2 Wisteria next to each other?

    The education of Wisteria with a braided main trunk is easily possible. Since the wisteria twines upwards, we recommend first letting all the shoots grow upwards individually and then braiding them. Regular trimming will provide a sufficient amount of shoots from the bottom for you to braid later. You can therefore get by with just one wisteria.

    At 2.50 meters, our pergola is not particularly large. Can I cut back the wisteria so much each year that it stays correspondingly small?

    This is easily possible by cutting twice a year.For the first time, prune the wisteria two months after flowering by cutting back the side shoots to 30 to 50 centimeters. In February, winter pruning is devoted to the resulting new flowering shoots, which you cut down to 2 or 3 buds. At this point you can clearly see the flower buds because they are noticeably swollen so close to the start of budding.

    Can I cultivate 'Pink Ice' wisteria in a bucket?

    In general, keeping wisteria in buckets is not a problem, as long as important premises are taken into account. To ensure water and nutrient supply, the bucket volume should be at least 25 liters at the beginning. The pot size must be adjusted proportionally to the growth. The larger you grow the wisteria, the larger the volume of the pot should be. Ideally, you repot a noble wisteria in connection with the winter cut.

    Is Wisteria hardy and thrives in cool locations?

    Winter weather with frost and snow usually cannot harm a wisteria as long as the location is sheltered from the wind. As a natural protection against the cold and wet, we recommend an underplanting of evergreen ground covers that shield the shallow root system of a wisteria. However, severe late frost can affect the young shoots and buds. If the meteorologists announce late ground frosts in April and May, cover a wisteria with fleece. To strengthen a robust winter hardiness, please stop fertilizing in August so that branches and twigs are well mature before the first frost.

    What diameter should a trellis made of wood or round steel have to withstand the choking force of wisteria?

    A wisteria does not strangle as much as it twists the supports of its trellis due to its twining growth. In the long run, wood has no chance of remaining straight as a wall trellis for Wisteria. In practice, a 4" x 4" post was twisted more than 90 degrees and ultimately broke through. With round steel there are better chances that the climbing aid will withstand. Solid steel with a diameter of 2 centimeters is recommended. Thick, stretched wire that is well anchored in the ground has proven its worth. Once the scaffolding shoots of a wisteria are thick enough, they provide additional support.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    A lazy wisteria with a dense network of long whip shoots is hardly reminiscent of the magnificently flowering climbing plant from nurseries and garden centers. The reason for the disappointing performance are classic mistakes in pattern care. In order for your wisteria to become the highlight of the garden, you should avoid these three common pruning mistakes:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    no educational cut uncontrolled growth, few flower clusters, damage to the trellis and facade Raise wisteria with a few scaffolding shoots
    cut too little Growth of long lashes as a dense network, few or no flowers Cut vigorously twice a year
    Water shots not removed Wild rootstock overgrown Noble variety Cut off or tear off wild shoots promptly

    Home gardeners make another pruning mistake when transplanting a wisteria. The older the plant when it changes location, the more root mass is lost. In order for the mighty climbing plant to compensate for the loss, all parts of the plant above ground should be cut back by about half. The best time is in early spring, so pruning will remove most of that year's flower buds. Anyone who does not cut back a transplanted wisteria by half for this reason will struggle with a weak, lazy plant or its total failure.

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    tips

    A wisteria not only expresses its vigor above ground. In the sunny, nutrient-rich location, the magnificent climbing plant forms numerous, quite annoying runners. So that wisteria does not subdue the entire garden through this "back door", it should be planted with a root barrier. A depth of 60 to 80 centimeters with a diameter of 100 to 120 centimeters is well suited.

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