With a variegated foliage, the harlequin willow interprets the timeless phenomenon of the versatile, cheerfully colorful theater figure. In fact, the name for the attractive ornamental tree could not have been chosen more appropriately. An ornamental willow 'Hakuro Nishiki' demonstrates timeless creativity as a decorative standard and shapely shrub in every garden. The most important premise for the perfect appearance on the garden stage is the right care of the cut. This tutorial will familiarize you with all of the pruning techniques that will bring out the best foliage in a harlequin willow.

A harlequin willow is a beautiful ornament for the garden

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. Topiary standard
  3. Care cut high stem
  4. plant cuttings shrub
  5. Form and maintenance pruning shrub
  6. care pruning shrub
  7. Rejuvenation pruning shrub
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Skillfully pruning the harlequin among the bushes - all types of pruning and dates

    The multi-faceted genus of willows (Salix) provides home gardeners with the variegated variety 'Hakuro Nishiki', one of the most colorful ornamental trees for imaginative garden design. The gem is known as 'Harlequin Willow' (Salix integra) and found its way into our gardens from East Asia in 1979. The appearance is characterized by white-pink-green colored leaves on yellowish to reddish twigs. Following an inconspicuous catkin blossom from March to April, the pretty leaves sprout from the beginning of May.

    To the young branches the colors of the leaves unfold in their most beautiful form. Legendary is a pink-cream-colored leaf shoot, which from a distance looks like the harlequin willow has blossomed. Consistent cutting therefore has top priority in the uncomplicated care program. A regular exchange of perennial shoots for this year's shoots guarantees a never-ending, summery play of colors in the foliage. The following table summarizes which types of cuts are recommended for the harlequin willow as a standard and ornamental shrub:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment
    Topiary standard Cut crown, thin out dead wood Late winter (January to early March)
    Care cut high stem Crown form compact and variegated end of June
    plant cuttings shrub dense branching at the base after planting
    maintenance pruning shrub Spherical, compact shrub shape, thin out dead wood, continuous regeneration from the 3rd year in late winter (January to early March)
    care pruning shrub opaque growth, neat appearance from the 3rd year at the end of June
    Rejuvenation pruning shrub Revitalize aged harlequin willow November to late February

    When choosing a date for a cut on your harlequin willow, the current weather conditions are decisive. The cut care in February succeeds easily on one frost-free, overcast day. In summer, prefer a warm but not sweltering day. Blazing sun and drought are the most important exclusion criteria for the editing time around St. John's Day.

    Topiary keeps high stem crown dense and colorful

    On this year's shoots, a standard crown has the most colorful leaves. An annual pruning of the previous year's crown branches clears the way for fresh shoots. How to cut correctly:

    • The best time is in February, before budding begins
    • Cut back all crown shoots except for short cones
    • Set the scissors 3 to 5 millimeters away from a bud

    With the radical pruning of the crown branches you cause a strong new growth of young shoots. A supplementary supply of nutrients is advantageous for growth. After the topiary, fertilize with compost and horn shavings.(32.93€) Harlequin willow in the tub gratefully accepts a liquid fertilizer for green plants.

    In early spring, in good time before the new shoots begin, cut back all crown shoots of a harlequin willow, leaving only a short stub.

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    Cutting harlequin willow with bypass or anvil shears?

    Willow wood is very soft and therefore easy to cut. This property makes trimming your harlequin willow easy and uncomplicated. Use one-handed pruning shears when trimming back a crown or shrub. The bypass scissors with two sharp blades are recommended for a smooth cut. With anvil scissors there is a risk that the soft wood will be pinched between the sharp blade and the blunt anvil and fray.

    Crown of a standard tree benefits from a summer care cut

    through the strong shape cut strong growth sets in in February another cut in summer makes sense. So that your harlequin willow thrives as a standard with a shapely and densely compact crown, grab the scissors again around St. John's Day, at the end of June. At this point, the plants take a break from growing. A second, weaker shoot follows with fresh, colorful ornamental leaves. How to cut your harlequin tree correctly in summer:

    • Cut back crown branches by a third or half
    • Alternatively, simply shorten branches that protrude from the crown shape
    • Remove shoots that are sprouting from the stem or root disc

    High stems of a harlequin willow are grafted onto the stem and rootstock of a robust wild species. As a result, wild shoots sprout from the trunk or the root disk. In every wild shoot there is a vehement growth power that is superior to the branches of the Edelkrone. So that the wild shoots do not take over the growth and overgrow the noble part, they should be removed promptly. Act according to the rule of thumb here: All shoots below the grafting point at the base of the crown must be removed as quickly as possible.

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    A broad, spherical crown shape has many advantages

    As a standard, the harlequin willow comes with a natural, spherical crown. A double cut contributes significantly to the fact that your tree retains the advantageous crown shape. Round crowns guarantee an unhindered supply of light, so that photosynthesis can be carried out on all branches and twigs. This results in a densely leafy growth from spring to autumn from the top of the crown to the base of the trunk. Without pruning, the ornamental willow loses its harmonious spherical shape over the years and changes into a sprawling, flat-oval growth of up to 200 centimeters in width, which is more reminiscent of a failed pancake.

    Cut harlequin willow as a shrub after planting - this is how it works

    Planted in the bed as a shrub, the harlequin willow is a real splendour. By nature, ornamental willows form a hemispherical habit with a growth height of up to 300 centimeters. As a solitary, decorative group or free-growing hedge, 'Hakuro Nishiki' attracts everyone's attention in small and large gardens. So that harlequin willow bushes branch out densely from the base to the top of the bush, a pruning sets the course. That is how it goes:

    • The best time is immediately after planting
    • Alternatively, make up for the pruning in February of the following year
    • Cut back bare-rooted young bushes by half
    • Shorten young plants in pots or containers by a third

    As illustrated in the figure below, professional pruning requires a radical approach. Don't let that irritate you. They cause an accumulation of juice in the lower buds, which ensures strong branching at the base of the plant with a long-term effect.

    A pruning guarantees that your harlequin willow will branch luxuriantly as a shrub. Cut back bare root by half. Shorten a young shrub in a pot or container by a third. There is a sap accumulation on the lower buds, whereupon increased sprouting begins at the base of the bush.

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    High juice pressure gets the budding going

    The decisive factor for the intensity of sprouting and growth is the juice pressure. Like most plant species, willows vigorously and purposefully pump their juices to the top buds of their shoots. The reason for the floral strategy is the fastest possible growth in sunlight so as not to be overshadowed by neighboring plants. The lower the position of a bud, the less juice pressure and growth. If you cut back the shoots as part of the planting, previously subordinate buds take over the leading role and are given a correspondingly strong sap flow. Since there are fewer buds to serve at the same time, the juice pressure on each remaining bud increases, which is followed by vigorous budding.

    For a shrub in top form - shape and maintenance pruning

    After pruning, let a harlequin willow shrub grow for two to three years. Your ornamental willow will complete the build-up phase to form a hemispherical shrub beauty without any horticultural intervention. Beginning in the third year, a shape and maintenance cut guarantees youthful vitality and a colorful foliage. How to do it right:

    • The best time is in February on a frost-free day
    • Check the shrub for animal winter guests in advance in order to postpone the appointment if necessary
    • Thin out dead branches at the base
    • Do the same with criss-crossing or inward-growing shoots

    Once deadwood and unfavorable branches have been removed, dedicate yourself to the shape cut. Do not cut back all shoots at once. In order to preserve the beautiful, hemispherical shape, shorten the branches that stand out more. Overall, the shoots should be cut back by at least a third to encourage young, this year's branches to sprout. A cut of up to two thirds is possible without any problems if you do not want a privacy screen in the first months of the gardening year. After cutting, fertilize with compost and horn shavings and water generously.

    Prune a harlequin willow shrub vigorously in February to allow it to sprout young shoots with variegated leaves. Take this opportunity to thin out dead branches and unfavorable shoots for a harmonious, compact appearance.

    tips

    Ornamental willow 'Hakuro Nishiki' is native to East Asia. Unlike native willow species, your harlequin willow cannot rely on home field advantage for disease resistance. Therefore, be careful when cutting with clean, disinfected blades to work. Pathogenic agents use unclean cutting tools as an ideal means of transport to cuts on woody plants.

    Care cut prevents the leaves from turning green in summer

    A heavy pruning in February is followed by a correspondingly vigorous budding of long, flexible branches with beautifully variegated leaves. As the summer progresses, the leaves on the harlequin willow shrub turn green. It is therefore an advantage if you cut back again between the end of June and mid-July. How to proceed professionally:

    • Carefully inspect harlequin pasture for nesting birds to reschedule if necessary
    • Cut off this year's growth with freshly sharpened, disinfected scissors
    • Shorten shoots on the outside more than shoots in the center of the bush

    Please do not prune ornamental willow shrubs in sweltering heat or during a summer drought. Ideally choose a time with mild temperatures and overcast skies.

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    Observe the summer grace period when pruning trees

    This tutorial advocates a moderate summer pruning of ornamental willows as shrubs and standard trees for three good reasons. If you cut back this year's growth on your harlequin willow on St. John's Day, there will be a breath of fresh air in the color festival of the leaves. At the same time, you support the compact, dense, bushy growth of the crown and bush with a pruning. First and foremost, you take to heart a much-needed consideration for the breeding season of numerous bird species. The summer grace period is manifested in the Federal Nature Conservation Act for the period from March 1st to September 30th. Moderate cuts on trees are permitted, provided that no nests are in the branches.

    Rejuvenate old harlequin shrub - clear the way for fresh colors

    Without an annually recurring pruning and maintenance cut, a harlequin willow shrub is only remotely reminiscent of the premium variety 'Hakuro Nishiki'. Rather, the wood presents itself as an impenetrable network of old and young shoots with uniformly green foliage. That's no reason to throw in the towel and clear out the harlequin pasture. Now comes the rugged one cut tolerance benefit. By the senile shrub put on the stick, clear the way for a rebuild. This is how the plan works:

    • The best time is between November and the end of February on a frost-free day
    • Check the dense undergrowth for animal winter guests beforehand
    • Saw off deadwood to just above the ground
    • Cut back the remaining shoots to 20 or 30 centimeters

    Already direct the growth into the natural, hemispherical shape during the rejuvenation cut. For this purpose, cut back shoots inside the bush less than shoots outside. To encourage branching from below, cut back the growth by half to two-thirds at the end of June the following summer. We also recommend fertilizing twice at the beginning of March and beginning of July with compost and horn shavings or an organic fertilizer from specialist shops.

    The robust cut tolerance of harlequin willows allows a radical rejuvenation cut. Shorten all shoots vigorously back to two handbreadths above the ground. The ornamental willow happily sprout again from the sleeping eyes.

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    Putting on the stick activates dormant buds

    The categorization of harlequin willow as a tree that tolerates pruning is primarily based on its ability to sprout freshly from old wood. The floral masterpiece succeeds because the plant develops dormant buds as it grows. These serve as a last resort when other parts of the plant fall out, such as branches, twigs or the trunk. The technical jargon refers to the secret vegetation points as sleeping eyes because they are located as tiny little points under the bark. By placing a harlequin willow bush (not the standard one!) on the stick during regeneration, dormant buds are activated and guarantee young shoots and leaves will sprout again.

    frequently asked Questions

    I would like to plant a deciduous hedge with privacy protection in the front yard. Is the harlequin willow suitable for this?

    If you have a free-growing hedge in mind as a fence and privacy screen, the harlequin willow is ideal. With an annual maintenance cut in February and topiary at the end of June, ornamental willows thrive compact and opaque during the summer. For a strictly formal hedge, you should use other deciduous trees, such as privet or hornbeam.

    Which underplanting is suitable for the harlequin willow as a standard?

    As a standard, the harlequin willow is grafted to a hardy willow type, like osier. Since all willows thrive as shallow roots, the appropriate underplanting should be low-competitive. Elf flowers (Epimedium), lady's mantle (Alchemilla), cranesbill (Geranium) and foam flower (Tiarella) are recommended.

    lady's mantle, foam flower or cranesbill

    We planted our harlequin willow as a standard 2 years ago. When should the first pruning be done? What do you have to pay attention to?

    On a harlequin willow, the crown should be cut "hedgehog short" every spring. The most colorful leaves form on young shoots. As the summer progresses, you can trim the spherical crown to shape or leave it untrimmed as you wish. Please never cut the ornamental willow "Harlequin" in frost, heat or drought.

    My ornamental willow 'Harlequin' is in the sunny front yard and is suffering from numerous brown leaves. What can I do against it?

    As an immediate measure, we recommend shading the crown, for example with a parasol. To ensure an adequate water supply, please check daily in the early morning by finger test whether the soil is dry and should be watered. A slight pruning close to St. John's Day (June 24) also helps to solve the problem. Then give compost with horn shavings to give the suffering wood a helping hand.

    On my 3 meter high 'Hakuro Nishiki' the leaves are turning brown and black.At the same time, hordes of ants are on the tree. What is the plant missing?

    If ants are romping around on an ornamental willow, lice are not far away. Ant workers piggyback aphids, transport them to the leaves, and milk the honeydew that the pests produce. Brown leaf discolouration indicates that aphids are extracting the plant sap. Sooty mold fungi are already spreading on black willow leaves, a common consequence of aphid infestation. Fight the aphids with a spray solution of 1 liter of water, 2 tablespoons of pure curd soap and a dash of spirit. The ants then automatically stay away from the inhospitable place for lice. Finally, cut all affected shoots back into the healthy wood.

    Shoots sprout from the grafted harlequin willow trunk. I will remove these wild shoots as soon as possible. What type of willow is the rootstock? Can I use the shoots as cuttings in the garden?

    High stems of harlequin willow are usually grafted onto basket willow (Salix viminalis). The willow species is known for strong growth of its branches of 100 to 200 centimeters per year and thrives in any normal garden soil. You can place the stem shoots as cuttings directly in the sunny to semi-shady bed in order to grow a willow shrub or small tree from them.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Only annual pruning makes the harlequin willow the floral figure of light that makes gardeners' hearts beat faster. If there are no shape and maintenance cuts, the ornamental willow grows old into unsightly undergrowth or disappoints with a shapeless crown and uni-green leaves. In order to protect you from mistakes in cutting, we will name the three most common cutting errors, point out typical damage patterns and give tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    High stem crown never cut back expansive, misshapen crown, no variegated foliage Prune the crown back to short cones in February
    Harlequin bush not pruned premature senescence, dense undergrowth as old and young branches Thin out every late winter from the 3rd year
    no pruning no pink-green shoots, slight coloration of the leaves Prune tall stems and shrubs at least once a year

    Another common mistake with fatal consequences results from confusing harlequin willow (Salix integra 'Hakuro Nishiki') with a hanging catkin willow (Salix caprea 'Pendula'). The latter wears soft catkins as its most beautiful ornament from March to April. Therefore, the crown of the standard stem and the shrub are cut after the flowering period. A cutting date in February would destroy all hopes for the silvery shimmering kittens.

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    tips

    Did you change the location of your harlequin willow within the first five years in the bed? Then the wood will forgive you the associated stress if you choose the leaf-free autumn time as the date. As shallow roots, standard trees and shrubs lose a lot of root mass when transplanted. Cut back an ornamental willow by at least half to restore the balance between above-ground and underground growth.

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Trees