- In the natural garden, broom thrives uncut
- Ginster cut at a glance - all types of cuts and dates
- Plant pruning encourages gorse to branch vigorously
- Planting cut redirects sap pressure to base
- Cut broom vigorously every year - instructions for maintenance pruning
- Do maintenance pruning before the start of the breeding season
- Moderate maintenance pruning on broom broom - how to cut properly
- Derive gorse branches instead of just cutting them off
- Aged, old broom bush - what to do?
- frequently asked Questions
The genus Genuine Broom (Genista) gives us bright yellow ornamental shrubs that transform the garden and balcony into a flower fairy tale. Well-known species are dyer's broom, wing broom and Goldland broom, which reach between 40 and 100 centimeters in height. We owe the genus Geissklee (Cytisus) majestic broom bushes up to 2 meters high, such as broom broom or ivory broom. Although both genera look confusingly similar and their flowering times overlap, they differ in terms of pruning care. This tutorial explains the right gorse cut at the best time and draws attention to important differences.

Table of Contents
Show all- Do not cut natural garden gorse
- Types of cuts and dates
- plant cutting
- Preservation cut real gorse
- Maintenance cut broom broom
- Old gorse ideas
- frequently asked Questions
- Cut back all shoots to a height of 10 to 15 centimeters immediately after planting
- Shorten bare root crops by at least half and potted crops by at least a third
- Cut off damaged and visibly weak shoots at the base
- Examine bare-rooted young shrubs for damaged roots in order to cut them out
- The best time is in February (at the latest by the beginning of March)
- Put on gloves, eye protection and long-sleeved clothing
- Cut back the entire shrub to a height of 10 centimeters
- The best time is immediately after flowering
- Check shrub for nesting birds to prune at a later date if necessary
- Put on gloves, safety goggles and long-sleeved clothing
- From the 4th year, prune out the 3 oldest shoots in exchange for 3 young shoots
- If the branches are too long, direct them to a side shoot that is 40 to 50 centimeters high
In the natural garden, broom thrives uncut
Flowering early in the year, all gorse bushes are a welcome food source for bees, bumblebees and butterflies. The ornamental trees shine in all their splendor when valuable pollinating insects depend on nutritious nectar after the hibernation to gain strength for the development of their colonies. For ecologically oriented gardeners, broom bushes are part of the basic equipment when creating a natural garden.
in the natural garden broom bushes of both genera may be allowed grow free. The reason for the horticultural decision is that the trees are not particularly pruning friendly. Either cut every year or not at all. The trees no longer sprout from old wood. An annual cut promotes the growth of young shoots, but ends in an unnatural, formal shape. Uncut gorse will develop one natural habit with high utility value for insects and birds. In the same train, the bushes sow themselves. Since broom species are among the short-lived shrubs anyway, some seedlings are simply spared when weeding. If the parent plants die, the offspring will have long since filled the resulting gap.
Ginster cut at a glance - all types of cuts and dates
You cannot identify real broom just by its golden-yellow flower clusters. In contrast to broom or broom of the Cytisus genus, which also blooms yellow and is up to 2 meters high, real broom bushes remain well below 100 meters in height. Another indication of the right pruning at the best time is the flowering time. Spring flowering Cytisus species blossom on previous year's wood and are pruned immediately after flowering. Summer-blooming Genista species bloom on this year's shoots** and are trimmed in early spring. If you are not familiar with the botanical classification of your broom, you can use the growth height and flowering time to decide which types of pruning and dates in the following table apply to your flowering shrub:
cut type | Broom species (average growth height) | heyday | best appointment |
---|---|---|---|
plant cutting | all gorse | irrelevant | immediately after planting |
maintenance cut | Real broom and others (40 to 80 cm) | May/June to August/September | every year in February |
maintenance cut | Broom broom and others (100 to 200cm) | April/May to June/July | every year after flowering |
You will look in vain for an appointment for the rejuvenation cut in this table. Broom does not tolerate cutting into old wood. For this reason, pruning broom bushes only has a chance of success if it starts on the day of planting and is completed every year.
For a better understanding of this tutorial, the repeated listing of the relevant broom species is not repeated below. Real gorse includes the pruning for all Genista species, such as dyer's gorse, winged gorse, Goldland gorse and sand gorse. Broom gorse represents species of the genus Cytisus, such as ivory and noble gorse and varieties derived from them.
Plant pruning encourages gorse to branch vigorously
The pruning of broom bushes begins on planting day. A pruning has set itself the goal of motivating the young wood to branch out densely from below. The following pruning applies to broom and varieties as well as broom and varieties:
They give the flowering shrub a decorative hemispherical shape when you cut at different depths. Shorten outer shoots to 10 centimeters, while shoots in the center are trimmed to 13 to 15 centimeters.

Shorten all shoots on bare-root trees by half so that they branch out profusely. On pots and containers, cut back strong shoots by a third and only the weak branches by half.
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Planting cut redirects sap pressure to base
In every broom bush, the sap pressure acts as the control center for growth. The floral trend is towards the light in order to be ahead of the competition with neighboring plants. As a result, most of the reserve substances head for the top buds. There you will find it strongest growth instead of. This applies equally to the plant itself and each individual shoot. The further a bud is from the top position, the lower the sap pressure and weaker the growth. When cutting the plants, cut all the shoots by half. Previously subordinate buds become the new top. The intensified sap pressure causes increased growth, so that a young shrub sprout vigorously at the base and branches out densely.Cut broom vigorously every year - instructions for maintenance pruning
Real gorse blooms on this year's shoots. Perennial wood is a hindrance to the summer bloom festival and should give way each spring, as illustrated below. This is how the perfect maintenance cut succeeds:
After maintenance pruning, fertilize with mature compost and horn shavings.(32.93€) A one-off start fertilization usually covers the nutrient requirements for the season. Pamper potted plants with a long-term fertilizer in the form of granules or sticks. Alternatively, you can administer a liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks from the beginning of March until the end of August.

Every year in February cut back all shoots to 10 centimeters. Real gorse does not tolerate a cut in the old wood. For this reason, cut annually.
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Do maintenance pruning before the start of the breeding season
When blackbirds, chaffinches and chiffchaff open this year's breeding season in March, all pruning work on woody plants must be finished. According to the Federal Nature Conservation Act, the closed season for nesting birds from March 1st to September 30th, so that bullfinches, dunnocks and wrens can complete their breeding business in peace. Radical pruning, such as putting on a stick, is permitted between October 1 and February 28 provided there are no wildlife in the bush or tree. As an exception, the legislature allows slight maintenance cuts during the grace period, provided these are limited to the current growth.Moderate maintenance pruning on broom broom - how to cut properly
Broom gorse flowers at the annual shoots. The shrub puts on the buds in the previous year. A pruning in the spring would consequently destroy all hopes of an opulent spring bloom. With a careful pruning you can still keep the ornamental tree in shape, provided you reach for the scissors every year. As the figure below shows, the maintenance cut also pursues the goal of continuous rejuvenation. How to proceed correctly:
Although you prune broom gorse after flowering, it also receives a well-measured portion of compost with horn shavings. While this year's flowers wither, the plant lays the buds for the coming year. That's where extra nutrients come in handy.

Starting in the fourth year, replace the three oldest shoots on the ground with young shoots. Remaining shoots on the ground can be diverted to a young side shoot at a height of 40 to 50 centimetres.
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Derive gorse branches instead of just cutting them off
Devote yourself to the topiary of an oversized broom, do not cut off branches anywhere. To ensure that a cut does not leave unsightly gaps, we recommend the derivative cut. The aim of this effective cutting technique is one slimming down instead of an abbreviation. To do this, look for a young side shoot at a height of 40 or 50 centimeters on the relevant branch. Use the scissors where the old twig and young side shoot fork. The young wood now takes the lead without a gap becoming visible in the overall picture.Aged, old broom bush - what to do?
A Cut in the old wood is on all gorse bushes taboo. Regardless of their botanical affiliation, flowering time or growth height, the shrubs consistently refuse to grow if you prune perennial shoots. The logical consequence is the clearing of the striking gorse in order to plant a young bush in its place. Before discarding the once magnificent spring or summer bloomer, please give it one last chance. The following floral rescue plan ideas are based on two alternative conditions: no young shoots are present - some young shoots are still thriving. Be inspired by our suggestions:
No young bottom shoots present
If a broom or broom has not been pruned for many years, there are often no more young shoots from the soil. Putting the old broom bush on the stick is not a solution, because no growth is to be expected from old wood. Shoot stumps simply dry back. Old shoots that are bare at the bottom sometimes have a vital, green area in their upper half.
If the broom bush in question hangs casually over a wall or a wooden fence, it still has a certain charm. Care for the green heads as if they were a separate plant and leave the lower leafless area as it is.
At least two or three young bottom shoots present
Under ideal site conditions, young, unbranched shoots thrive on the aged broom. This offspring forms a perfect starting point for rebuilding. First, cut off all old, bare ground shoots at the base or on short cones. The best time is in early spring, just before budding begins. The way to the light is no longer blocked for the offspring bottom shoots, so that vigorous growth begins. Fertilize the rejuvenated shrub liberally with compost and horn shavings. In the period that follows, carry out consistent, species-appropriate trimming according to the instructions in this tutorial.
frequently asked Questions
Is a gorse poisonous?
All broom species contain toxic substances such as the alkaloid sparteine or the toxin cytisine. Toxins are found in the highest concentration in the seeds. Consuming 5 to 10 seeds is enough for children to experience nausea and vomiting. If large amounts of leaves and seeds get into the human body, there is a risk of serious health problems such as circulatory failure and heart failure. Horses, cows, sheep, dogs, cats and fish react with typical symptoms of poisoning when they eat plant parts from broom bushes. Cultivation of gorse should be avoided in the family garden, or the children should be made aware of the dangers.
I have not yet cut my yellow noble broom (Cytisus scoparius). The shrub has now developed two main shoots that are 2.5 meters high and slightly overhang. There's a gap in the middle that I don't like at all. Can a pruning fix the problem?
Pruning yellow noble broom is very tricky because the bush does not sprout well after a hard cut into the old wood. The best prospects for a topiary are offered by young plants that you cut regularly from the start and thus keep compact. Now it is most likely too late. If you no longer like the noble broom, you should clear it. Before doing so, it would still be worth attempting a half or two-thirds cut back and seeing the reaction.
What is the difference between common broom and noble broom? Both species come from the genus Cytisus.
The common broom is the native wild form. If you come across a gorse bush on your walks in the fields and forests, it is usually this yellow flowering gorse species that is up to 2 meters high. Noble broom, on the other hand, is the result of breeding or natural mutation. Here you can choose from a variety of varieties with a variety of flower colors. Noble broom flowers white, yellow, apricot, red or two-tone.
Can I keep an ivory broom (Cytisus praecox 'Allgold') at 50 centimeters smaller than the 100 to 150 centimeters that it normally reaches?
This is quite possible, but requires an annual cut. An ivory gorse blossoms on one-year-old wood, so it is pruned after the flowering period. Since it hardly or not at all sprout from old wood, you should cut back shoots to the desired height every year.
Is gorse hardy?
Planted broom bushes are completely hardy. Nevertheless, in the year of planting, we recommend light protection with leaves and twigs, since young plants first have to develop frost hardiness. In the bucket, on the other hand, all broom bushes are dependent on winter protection. Wrap the jar in bubble wrap and place it in a protected niche on wood or styrofoam.
Can parts of the clippings be used as cuttings for propagation?
The most promising propagation method is sowing seeds. Propagation by cuttings is possible, but associated with a high failure rate. Use 6-inch, herbaceous, non-flowering branch tips, defoliating the lower half. Then fill pots with growing substrate and put 2 to 3 cuttings in two thirds. A transparent hood put on promotes rooting. Keep the substrate constantly slightly moist. Plant rooted cuttings directly in the sunny bed.
I got a gorse high stem as a gift. What should be considered when cutting?
The cutting care of tall stems and shrubs does not differ significantly. If it is a genuine broom of the Genista genus, cut back the crown to 5 to 10 centimeters every spring. This is followed by strong growth of fresh shoots, on which the sun-yellow flowers unfold. If you were given a high standard broom of the Cytisus genus, cut back the crown by half to two-thirds after the flowering period. In contrast to gorse bushes in the bed, the pruning should be more vigorous in order to keep the crown compact and thriving.
I planted cushion broom (Cytisus decumbens) as ground cover in my rock garden? Do I have to cut the bushes?
Cushion broom grows 10 to 20 centimeters high, with an average annual growth of 5 centimeters. Densely bushy and full of flowers, the plant thrives without any pruning measures.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
If a broom bush refuses the longed-for splendor of flowers, grows old to a bare undergrowth or dies completely, it can't be a coincidence.In fact, typical omissions in cutting care are revealed in this way. The following table informs you about the three most common pruning mistakes and gives tips for professional prevention:
cutting error | damage picture | prevention |
---|---|---|
wrong cutting time | failure of flowering | Real gorse in February, cut brooms after flowering |
never cleared | increasing baldness from within, premature senescence | Thin out broom regularly, replace the oldest shoots on broom with young ones |
placed on the stick | no more growth | do not cut into old wood, no rejuvenation cut |
tips
In terms of their site preferences, there is an important difference to note between gorse and broom. Real broom species and varieties prefer fresh to moderately moist and nutrient-rich soil. Broom species and varieties develop their optimum in dry, preferably sandy and poor soil.