The extravagant blooms of almond trees are the result of ideal conditions and skilful pruning. A white-pink flower fairy tale is granted to you every year when a regular cut clears the way for the young blossom wood. When and how to prune Prunus triloba perfectly, you can read all the details in this tutorial.

Almond trees are cut after flowering

Table of Contents

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  1. Promote blossom wood
  2. Types of cuts and dates
  3. Educational pruning shrub
  4. Training cut high stem
  5. maintenance cut
  6. Rejuvenation pruning shrub
  7. frequently asked Questions

    8. Flowering on one-year long shoots - what does that mean?

    Almond trees are among the classic spring bloomers that carry their valuable blossom wood on a stable framework. Cultivated as a magnificent shrub, the basic structure achieves a growth height of 150 to 200 centimetres. Creative house gardeners are happy to grow the Asian ornamental tree as a picturesque standard or buy it ready-made from the hand of the master gardener in a tree nursery or garden center. The soft pink clusters of flowers unfold most beautifully annual long shoots. The more these short-lived shoots appear on the bush and treetop, the more opulent the abundance of flowers.

    For expert pruning, the question arises as to how the growth of one-year-old long shoots can be promoted. A short excursion into the different types of drive brings light into the darkness. How to recognize and promote the young blossom wood on almond trees:

    • Long shoots are at least 15 to 20 centimeters long, often much longer
    • Growth in summer with synchronous initiation of flower buds
    • Recognizable as unbranched side shoots on supporting skeletal shoots
    • Flower buds unfold in April

    As the figure below shows, one-year-old shoots can be recognized by the fact that they only branch out in later years. Once annual long shoots on the almond tree have blossomed, they quickly age. It is therefore an advantage if you use the faded, annual shoots Cut back vigorously after flowering. In this way you make room for young shoots, which will grow in length over the course of the summer and create numerous buds for the next flowering period.

    In the case of almond trees, long shoots with blossoms sprout on the bush or crown structure during the summer. Annual long shoots with buds are unbranched. Over the years, they branch out and bear few or no flowers.

    Types of cuts and date

    The linchpin for the right pruning care are the one-year long shoots as the most valuable blossom wood. Closely related to this is a stable framework that allows the young shoots to sprout on the bush and crown every year. Based on this knowledge, the following types of pruning are available to elicit the most beautiful spring blossom from an almond tree:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment
    Educational pruning shrub stable basic structure for short-lived blossom wood during the first 4 to 5 years in May
    Training cut high stem Structure of trunk and harmonious crown in May up to the desired trunk height and finished crown
    Pruning of shrub and crown for maintenance promote young blossom wood every year after flowering
    Rejuvenation pruning shrub revitalize senile shrubs late winter

    When planning the appointment, it is noticeable that May is the best time for educational and maintenance cuts. At this stage, your almond tree has not yet started to produce fresh long shoots with new flower buds. The only exception is for a taper cut. As the following instructions make clear, rejuvenation involves a radical cut. An almond tree copes better with the procedure during the winter sap dormancy. Furthermore, you act in accordance with the law with a cutting time in winter. The Federal Nature Conservation Act stipulates that you may only radically prune trees between October 1st and February 28th. The grace period extends from March 1st to September 30th, coinciding with the breeding season of our feathered friends. An exception applies to light maintenance cuts, which are limited to the current growth.

    Raise almond trees to bushes

    Almond trees show themselves from their most beautiful side as well-formed shrubs with a Structure of three to five ground shoots. In the first four to five years, pruning care focuses on the upbringing of selected ground shoots. Instead of just letting them grow, we recommend one gradual construction with an increase of about 10 centimeters per year. This has the advantage that after each cutting stage, there is a build-up of juice, which results in vital and dense branching. This is how the perfect parenting cut succeeds:

    • Select three to five of the most promising bottom shoots
    • Cut off all other ground shoots consistently at the base
    • After flowering, cut back last year's growth to around 10 centimetres
    • Shorten side branches along the bottom shoots to 3 to 4 buds

    It is not possible to specifically predict how long the shrub will last. Annual growth of almond trees varies between 20 and 70 centimeters, depending on local site conditions. Furthermore, the duration depends on the desired final height. Lateral long shoots with numerous flower buds thrive even during the upbringing. As illustrated in the image below, strictly prune faded branches while extending the bottom shoots more generously by 10 centimetres.

    The ideal shrub framework consists of three to five long-lasting shoots. You gradually build this up to the desired height in the first few years. Thanks to a phased upbringing, the skeletal shoots branch out evenly with valuable blossom wood.

    Educate high stems - that's how it works

    Almond trees shine in the form of decorative tall stems in small gardens and tubs or as a floral reception area in the front yard. For the knowledgeable home gardener, it is a matter of honor to raise an almond tree on your own. How to do it right:

    • Choose the strongest ground drive for the future trunk
    • Drive a support stake into the ground next to the ground shoot to tie the two together
    • Cut off all remaining shoots at the base
    • Guide the central drive up the rod in 10-centimetre increments to the desired trunk height
    • Remove bottom shoots and side shoots regularly

    A well-formed crown consists of a central shoot as a trunk, an extension of the trunk and four to five side shoots as main branches, as shown in the figure below. Branching to the crown begins when you cut off the tip of the central shoot. Please only make this cut when the top bud is four to five buds above the desired base of the crown. Wait for the following budding first in order to select the best leading branches. Cut off all other branches vertically just before the trunk bark. Nose-wise ground shoots that sprout as vertical competition to the trunk are cut off at the base.

    A beautiful crown consists of a central shoot and four main branches. You extend this in the first few years. Thoroughly cut back the blossoming wood that sprouts from it after the flowering period.

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    Removal of top bud activates crown branching

    The cultivation of almond trees as high stems benefits from a dominance of the top bud. It is anchored in the law of growth of top growth that the strongest growth develops from the uppermost bud of the middle shoot. Significantly less growth takes place on lower-positioned buds along the future standard trunk. Conversely, this means that when you remove the top bud, you start the branching to the crown. Immediately after cutting the shoot tip, the sap pressure is distributed to previously subordinate shoot buds, which then sprout vigorously and develop into leading branches.

    Preservation cut - step-by-step instructions

    If the educational pruning releases a magnificent almond tree as a shrub or standard tree, pruning results in annual maintenance. The best time is immediately after the end of the flowering period. The focus is on all faded shoots that have completely exhausted themselves to date and are cut back vigorously. The growth on the shrub framework or the main branches of the crown can also be reversed. This is how the maintenance cut works in detail:

    • Cut back shoots with withered flowers vigorously down to 3 or 4 buds
    • Remove dead and inward branches
    • Shorten scaffolding shoots or leading branches that are too long to the desired length

    For a perfect cut, please position the scissors just above an outward-facing bud or an alternate leaf. Please do not leave any long stubs longer than 5 millimeters. The residual wood dries or rots back, which offers a good target for diseases and pests.

    digression

    Aged skeletal shoots slim down with a derivative cut

    Scaffolding shoots on the almond tree reliably subsidize the growth of side shoots as blossom wood for many years. Highly branched heads on individual main branches do not mean that you have to remove the supporting branch from the shrub or crown. By slimming down an aged tip, a skeletal shoot continues to fulfill its supporting function. Slimming is easy and uncomplicated with a derivation cut. To do this, look for a vital side shoot further in on the skeleton shoot. Where the aged leading branch and young shoot fork, cut off the old wood. Ideally, move the cutting point a few millimeters past the fork so you don't damage the young wood.

    Rejuvenate senile almond trees

    Three years without a maintenance cut are enough for an almond tree to become old and lazy to bloom. To make matters worse, over-aged long shoots are susceptible to the dreaded Monilia top drought. There are several reasons to subject the flowering shrub to a radical makeover. This is how the plan works:

    • The best time is in late winter to the end of February in frost-free weather
    • Examine the wood thoroughly for feathered or fur-bearing winter guests and postpone the appointment if necessary
    • Cut back old, aged skeleton shoots to 10 to 20 centimeters
    • Alternatively, use young ground shoots as a new framework
    • Cut back side branches along the new trellis shoots to three buds
    • Rejuvenated almond tree fertilize with 3 liters of compost and 150 grams of horn shavings

    It is an advantage if you derive a worn-out bottom instinct instead of radically thinning it out. Before removing a candidate, examine the shoot at the bottom for a promising outward-facing side shoot. Where old and young wood fork, set the scissors or saw a few millimeters behind the fork.

    Do not seal cuts

    Does the rejuvenation cut leave one or the other larger cut? Then please do not use tree wax (€12.96) or similar wound sealants. Well-founded research and field tests relating to wound healing in woody plants have shown that an airtight coating of cut wounds does more harm than good. The preparations prevent the plant's own woundwood from fulfilling its duty.

    It is sufficient if you smooth out cuts with a knife and leave the rest to the almond tree. An exception applies if severe frost is to be expected after the cut. In this case, coat the wound edges thin with tree wax to protect the exposed cambium.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is the almond tree poisonous?

    The almond tree (Prunus triloba) inspires in our regions with its picturesque spring blossom and bears no fruit. Shoots, leaves, roots or bark do not contain any toxic ingredients. However, caution is advised with the almond tree. The bitter almond (Prunus dulcis var. amara) in particular bears highly poisonous fruits, which, however, rarely ripen in our regions.

    I've heard that the Almond Tree is susceptible to Monilia Peak Drought. What can I do to prevent this plant disease?

    Monilia pathogens are spread through the air and reach the inside of the plant through the flowers. For this reason, you should cut back almond trees every year after flowering. This is also the best time for a balanced supply of nutrients, because the tree will then produce new shoots that will flower next year.

    I didn't cut my almond tree after flowering. Now the crown has become very large. Although the tree is only two years old, it has already reached a height of 4 meters. Can I still cut in late summer?

    In late summer, an almond tree has already created the flower buds for next year. We recommend that you limit the pruning to a third of the length of the shoot. If you blend lower, the blossom festival will be canceled completely next spring.

    I would like to plant an almond tree in a bed about 80 centimeters wide. A 40 centimeter high dry stone wall completes the bed. Can it happen that the tree will damage the wall with its roots at some point?

    The almond tree Prunus triloba is characterized by weak growth. Since the tree is regularly cut back strictly after the flowering period, no significant strong roots can develop. The risk of damaging the drywall is minimal.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    A tired almond tree with few flowers and many senile shoots is a shadow of itself. So that you don't have to struggle with a worn-out, lazy shrub or tall stem, the following table draws your attention to the three most common pruning errors that are responsible for the floral dilemma:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    never cut dense network of old, heavily branched skeletal and long shoots cut back last year's long shoots vigorously after each flowering period
    wrong cutting time failure of flowering cut immediately after flowering
    Middle shoot cut off too early when raising standard stems puny high stem Do not cut the top bud too early

    tips

    In the pot, the almond tree transforms the balcony and terrace into a white and pink spring fairy tale. However, the little beauty in pot culture is not nearly as hardy as when planted in a bed. Adjust the nutrient supply by the end of July at the latest so that the shoots mature. Cover the bucket with foil or fleece and place it on wood. If late frosts are imminent, wrap the crown with breathable fleece so that the delicate buds are not damaged.

Category:

Vegetable garden