The hazelnut is popular as a wildly romantic large shrub for a presentation as a solitary eye-catcher or a free-growing natural hedge. The deciduous deciduous tree is on the advance as a majestic tree hazel in decorative varieties. In the care program, cutting at the right time plays a key role. This tutorial is filled to the brim with beginner-friendly instructions for everything to do with the wonderful hazelnut.

Female flowers are reddish

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. plant cuttings shrub
  3. Educational pruning shrub
  4. maintenance pruning shrub
  5. Maintenance cut tree hazel
  6. Rejuvenation pruning shrub
  7. frequently asked Questions

    8. Cut hazelnuts as trees and shrubs

    The incision depends largely on whether it is a hazelnut bush (Corylus avellana) or one tree hazel (Corylus colurna). Both species and their varieties come from the hazel genus within the birch family. In March and April, the deciduous shrubs bear male catkins and female, reddish flowers that turn into aromatic, crisp brown hazelnuts by fall. A hazelnut bush can grow to a height of up to 7 meters and is just as wide. The growth is characterized by an annual increase of 50 to 90 centimeters. As a tree, the wood reaches impressive dimensions of up to 20 meters in height, with a crown width of 4 to 8 meters. With annual growth of 20 to 35 centimeters, tree hazel takes things much more slowly. All types of cuts for shrubs and trees are summarized in the following overview:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment
    Plant cut as a shrub dense branching at the base of the bush after planting
    upbringing as a shrub well-formed growth during the first 3 to 4 years
    Maintenance cut as a shrub Thin out dead wood, shorten shoots that are too long between late autumn and late winter
    conservation pruning tree light-flooded crown, crown extension control after harvest
    Rejuvenation pruning shrub revitalize stale hazelnuts early October to late February
    Rejuvenation pruning tree bald, expansive crown rejuvenate early October to late February

    For the small garden and tub, the hazel genus gives us the corkscrew hazel a natural one spontaneous mutation with fascinating decorative value. Its branches form in a spiral, to which the name of the species refers. The deciduous woody plant grows to a height of 150 to 250 centimetres, so that as a shrub or standard tree it likes to set the scene in the front yard as a friendly welcoming committee. Regarding the cut care are no differences to the common hazelnut bush.

    Pruning stimulates branching

    If a hazelnut is on the design plan as a solitary shrub or a free-growing natural hedge, gardeners do not have to dig deep into their pockets for young plants. Bare-root young plants with a growth height of 60 to 100 centimeters are available from competent tree nurseries for 3 to 4 euros. Young shrubs with root balls grown in containers are available for less than 10 euros. To ensure that the trees grow vigorously and healthily, a targeted pruning gets the branching going. Act according to the rule of thumb: the smaller the root volume and plant size, the harder the pruning. How to do it right:

    • Prune hazelnut bushes after planting
    • Shorten all shoots by half on root crops
    • Cut off damaged root strands
    • On high-quality potted plants, prune weak branches by a third, strong shoots only at the tips

    As shown in the image below, pruning can be prudent, even if it's difficult. Without consistent plant pruning, the hazelnut pumps all its reserve substances in the direction of the top buds in order to grow towards the light at a rapid pace. Buds on the base of the plant go almost empty, so that a bare shrub base is pre-programmed on the day of planting. By clipping the preferred buds at the shoot tips, you counteract the unwanted process.

    As a shrub, your hazelnut will branch out nicely and bushy if you carry out a plant pruning. Prune all shoots by a third (potted) to half (bare-rooted). The resulting accumulation of sap causes dormant buds to sprout at the base of the bush.

    Grow hazelnut bush

    A hazelnut bush fits harmoniously into the creative garden design if you build a stable framework over a period of three to four years. the Ordinary hazelnut sets itself decoratively in scene 7 to 10 bottom shoots. As a spectacular whim of nature, the corkscrew willow With 5 to 7 bottom shoots in all their glory. By forcing staggered growth upwards, you encourage dense branching near the ground. How to properly raise a hazelnut bush:

    • Time slot is open from the beginning of October
    • Cut hazelnuts in frost-free weather without blazing sun
    • Select the most promising ground shoots for the framework
    • Cut off all remaining shoots at the base

    Extend each scaffold drive by about 10 centimeters per year until you reach the desired final height. Always cut close to an outward-facing bud or a conveniently placed leaf node to set the ideal growth direction for next season. A distance of 3 to 5 millimeters to the bud is well chosen so that the vegetation point is not injured or does not sprout due to a too long stub.

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    Perfect shape thanks to training cut - juice accumulation makes it possible

    The cut care in the first three to four years has positive impact over the entire lifetime of a hazelnut. In order for the shrub to branch out densely near the ground, the sap flow must be throttled during the youth phase. You can do this by removing the current top buds at least once a year in order to divert the plant sap to lower-lying buds. Without a training pruning, the growth law of top promotion rules, so growth is concentrated on the top buds. Buds positioned lower in the bush remain dormant, resulting in a bare base.

    Maintenance cut at 3-year intervals

    If a hazelnut has successfully completed the training phase, trimming is on the program at longer intervals. Under normal conditions, a maintenance cut every 2 to 3 years is advantageous for vitality and shape retention. In order to keep growth in check in the small garden, annual pruning appointments are advisable. How to cut expertly:

    • The best time is in late autumn, from the beginning of October
    • Thoroughly thin out dead wood
    • Cut away any branches growing inside the hazelnut
    • Remove three to four of the oldest bottom shoots in exchange for young shoots
    • Scaffolding shoots with heavily branched heads lead to a side shoot that is lower down

    Continuous rejuvenation by replacing old shoots with young ones keeps your hazelnut vital and thriving. To reliably distinguish young from old wood, assess the degree of branching. Young, one-year-old shoots thrive unbranched. Only over the years more and more side branches are added.

    Every 4 to 5 years you should thin out a hazelnut bush. Deadwood and branches growing inwards are removed. Some of the oldest ground shoots give way to young skeletal shoots. Slender shoot tips can be trimmed with a trimming cut.

    tips

    Sometimes normal, straight wild shoots sprout from the rootstock of a corkscrew willow. Simply tear off the unwanted branches as soon as they catch your eye. Thanks to this prudence, the bizarrely twisted branches in the shrub keep the upper hand.

    Tree hazel maintenance cut - this is how it works

    Tree hazel carries its slender, cone-shaped crown in its youth phase. Over time, the crown flattens out and assumes an expansive width of up to 8 meters, with a growth height of 12 to 20 meters. This sometimes causes space problems in the private garden, which make a regulating pruning unavoidable. On this occasion, the crown should be freed from dead wood and unfavorable branches. How to cut tree hazel correctly:

    • Prune hazel if necessary
    • The best time is after harvest and leaf fall in autumn
    • First cut back any accessible branches that have grown too long
    • Thin out dead branches on the astring
    • Branches that are too long and overhanging indicate a young side shoot

    The wood is easy to trim. Equipped with good-quality pruning shears (either as bypass or anvil pruning shears) and telescopic pruning shears, you can cut back overly long shoots without dizzying climbs into the crown. If aged, dead branches need to be pruned, master the cut with a folding saw or hacksaw. For a professional cut, it is important to ensure that you do not damage the bark of a hazel tree. Cut or saw a short distance from the bark or branch ring, which can be seen as a bulge in the transition from branch to trunk.

    digression

    Thin out thick branches in stages

    The mighty crown of a tree hazel develops its picturesque pyramid shape without a pruning. However, when the tree is advanced it may be necessary to remove an old, thick branch. Saw the branch in question not on a train away. There is a great danger that it will tear off and a large wound will appear on the bark. By using a special cutting technique, you can effectively prevent fatal damage. First, set the saw roughly 40 centimeters distance to the actual interface. Saw the branch from below to the middle. Pull the saw out to move it four to eight inches to the left or right. Now saw from above until the branch breaks off. Cut the stump down to the astring. Finally, smooth out the cut and apply a thin layer of tree wax to the edges of the wound (€12.96) to protect the valuable cambium wood from frost.

    Rejuvenate old hazelnut bush

    Without an occasional thinning and maintenance cut, a dense network of shoots develops in the hazelnut bush, which wilts due to lack of light and noticeably fewer flowers and nuts. Instead of digging up an old hazelnut tree, boost growth, flowering propensity and fruit yield with a radical rejuvenation pruning. How to do it:

    • The best time is between the beginning of October and the end of February
    • First cut off all dead shoots at the base
    • Cut back the remaining scaffold shoots to knee height

    If you have planted a hazelnut on the stick, promote growth with a balanced supply of nutrients. Apply 3 to 4 liters of compost and 100 to 150 grams of horn shavings per square meter of root disc. Rake in the organic fertilizer superficially so as not to damage the shallow root system. Then pour in plenty. Within two to three years the shrub will have regenerated to bloom again and give you a bountiful harvest of nuts.

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    Winter rejuvenation pruning in accordance with nature and law

    In the midst of the summer vegetation period, the consequences of bare and senescent hazelnuts can no longer be overlooked. However, do not be tempted to put an old bush on the stick right away. Breeding birds don't give a damn about the ornamental value of trees and shrubs, as long as they find space in them to build their nests. Ecological gems such as the hazelnut are very popular as an ideal retreat for the annual breeding business. For this reason, nature-loving gardeners leave their scissors and saws aside in the summer so as not to disturb the feathered garden dwellers in the care of their offspring. The Federal Nature Conservation Act gives particular emphasis to the need and has a strict Grace period from March 1st to September 30th. Radical pruning measures are exceptionally permitted from October 1st to February 28th, such as pruning or putting on the stick.

    frequently asked Questions

    Are nuts from a corkscrew hazel edible?

    With a corkscrew hazel, the decoratively twisted branches are the focal point. This does not mean that the spherical brown fruits are forgotten. In contrast to the wild species, the attractive variant has fewer nuts, which can of course be turned into numerous delicacies. As a basic ingredient for sweet hazelnut cream or a hearty, aromatic hazelnut and herb coating for meat dishes, corkscrew hazelnuts pamper the palate just as much as they are fresh and crunchy in morning muesli. Harvesting at the right time is important for carefree enjoyment. Only pick hazelnuts when they have a rich brown skin.

    At what age does the hazelnut bear fruit for the first time? What can be the cause if the shrub does not bloom and bear fruit?

    A hazelnut first goes through a youth phase. During this period, the shrub does not bloom or bear fruit. After 3 to 4 years in the garden, the large shrub puts on its flowers for the first time and provides crunchy hazelnuts in autumn. A pruning in winter is tantamount to a total loss of flowers and fruit, because all the buds are removed. Furthermore, too nitrogen-rich fertilization can extend the youth phase by a few years. If you prune your hazelnuts according to the instructions in this tutorial and fertilize with compost instead of blue grain, the nuts will not be long in coming.

    Can I keep a hazelnut in a tub on the patio?

    Cultivation in a bucket is quite possible. Important prerequisites are an adequate supply of water and nutrients. In the tightly dimensioned volume of substrate in planters, the supplies are used up much faster than in the bed. Furthermore, a suitable bucket should be at least 50 liters in size so that the large shrub feels in good hands.

    Are two hazelnuts (male and female) required for me to harvest fruit?

    Hazelnuts (Corylus avellana) thrive as monoecious shrubs. This means that a shrub will bear both male, long, yellow catkins and female, small, red flowers and will be self-pollinating. One specimen is therefore sufficient to harvest hazelnuts in autumn. A second hazel bush downwind can increase the yield.

    We have thinned out our old hazelnut bush thoroughly and would now like to plant under it decoratively. Which plants are suitable for such a shady location?

    Underplanting densely leafed hazelnuts should be tough. As shallow roots, the shrubs exert massive root pressure on their immediate surroundings. Light is scarce under the dense foliage. Nevertheless, some shade-tolerant perennials are not deterred by the harsh living conditions on the root disc of a hazelnut and thrive magnificently. Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) is also part of the illustrious circle, as is cherry laurel as a ground cover (Prunus laurocerasus 'Mount Vernon'.

    Is it possible to raise the hazelnut as a trunk yourself? What to look out for

    A young hazelnut with a straight central shoot is perfect for training as a standard. Since the most beautiful hazelnuts thrive on sunny branches, we recommend building a hollow crown. First guide the center drive on a support rod to the desired height. Then, after two to three years, choose an advantageous branching and cut off the central shoot above it. Build a framework of four to six side branches arranged in a circle. Excess side shoots on the trunk are removed.

    We would like to fence our garden with a 10 meter long and 5 meter high wild fruit hedge. The hazelnut is our favorite. Which wild fruit trees go well with this?

    For a varied wild fruit hedge, we recommend combining the hazelnut with local wild fruit trees. Suitable plant partners are cornelian cherry (Cornus mas), apple rose (Rosa villosa), service pear (Amelanchier spicata) and black and red currants (Ribes nigrum and Ribes Jonker van Tets). In addition, the dog rose (Rosa canina) provides picturesque cup flowers and colorful rose hips. With a planting distance of 120 centimetres, the shrubs quickly form a dense hedge with a privacy factor.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    If a hazel bush gives the gardener no nuts or transmutes into an impenetrable thicket, pruning has failed. Although common hazel and tree hazel rarely need pruning, pruning should not be totally ignored and should be done at the right time.The following table draws attention to the three most common mistakes made when cutting hazelnuts:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Shrub or crown never thinned bare, matted growth, few hazelnuts thin out every three to four years
    cut in late winter/spring Loss of flowering time and fruit yield always cut between late autumn and late winter
    old shrub put on the floor in one passage total failure Rejuvenate hazelnut in three stages
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    tips

    A frequent reason for pruning hazelnuts and corkscrew hazel is to move to a new location. Within the first five years you can transplant the wood without any problems, provided you observe two important premises. Transplanting should be done exclusively during the leafless period of late autumn and winter. Furthermore, the lost root mass should be compensated by a strong pruning by half.

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Vegetable garden