A trumpet tree unfolds its monumental presence without annual pruning. If the crown becomes too dense, bulky or expansive, a trimming and shaping fixes the problem. Read this tutorial to learn when and how to properly prune a Catalpa as a house tree.

The trumpet tree is cut back in autumn or winter and sprout again in spring

Table of Contents

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  1. Best time to cut
  2. thinning cut
  3. topiary
  4. Pruning ball trumpet tree
  5. frequently asked Questions

    6. Best time is in winter

    To cut a trumpet tree is im late winter the best time. On other dates, the most beautiful attributes of your house tree fall victim to the scissors or you collide with the regulations of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. All arguments for a winter pruning time are summarized in the following overview:

    • Leaf-free winter time allows a perfect overview of the crown
    • Decorative fruit decoration from long pods is preserved for a long time
    • Unobstructed view of flower buds
    • Gentle on the tree in dormant sap
    • No harmful effect on nesting birds

    Alternatively, prune a trumpet tree after flowering in August. At this time the tree has not yet established the flower buds for the next year. If the cut care on the this year's increase limited, is a cut within the summery grace period permitted.

    tips

    Never cut your trees at temperatures below - 5 degrees Celsius. Other exclusion criteria when choosing a date are summer heat and drought as well as rain. Extreme weather conditions of all kinds torpedo the cutting result up to total failure.

    Instructions clearing cut

    A trumpet tree develops its representative stature without a pruning. Occasional thinning is still an advantage, so that the crown is flooded with light and thrives with dense foliage. The image below illustrates how a pruned trumpet tree looks before and after. How to complete the perfect thinning cut:

    • Thin out the crown every 5 to 6 years in winter
    • Cut deadwood on knots
    • Remove branches growing in the wrong direction
    • Cut out the weaker shoots from parallel shoots without a long silence
    • Cut or tear off shoots from the trunk or tree disc

    Do you have doubts as to whether a shoot has died or not? Then do a simple vitality test. Scrape off a piece of the bark with your thumb nail or tip of a knife. If juicy, light-colored or green tissue emerges, life pulsates in the shoot and it will continue to grow. Dark, dry tissue, on the other hand, signals that growth has stopped at this point and the branch should be thinned out.

    Every 5 to 6 years the trumpet tree benefits from a thinning cut. Cut off deadwood on the branch. Branches growing towards the center of the crown, crossing one another or unfavorably positioned are removed. Tear off trunk shoots and wildlings from the tree disc.

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    Expert preparation - avoid safety risks

    In order for gardeners and trumpet trees to survive the pruning safely, the right preparation is important. The basic equipment includes a stable ladder, work gloves and protective goggles. Pruning shears are available for cutting branches up to 4 cm in diameter, optionally with a bypass or anvil mechanism. You can master thick branches with a Japanese saw. For gardeners who are not afraid of heights, we recommend a Combisystem pruning shears, which can cut up to 5 meters high without having to climb up the ladder. Scissor blades and saw blades should be sharp, sparkling clean and disinfected. If you expect a whole mountain of clippings, a garden shredder will take care of the disposal.

    Shape cut regulates space problems

    The sprawling crown growth of trumpet trees is often underestimated. With a growth height of 10 to 15 meters, the crown extends over an impressive diameter of 8 to 12 meters. This can cause space problems even in a large garden. The most common reason for a topiary on the common trumpet tree is the professional reduction of the crown. After a thorough thinning cut, proceed as follows:

    • The best time is in January/February on a mild, overcast day
    • Shorten overlong scaffolding branches by a third or half
    • Make the cut 5 to 10 mm above an opposite pair of buds
    • Massively branched, overhanging shoots slim down to a young side shoot

    After each cut, step back a few steps to plan what to do next. Larger holes in the crown image can be avoided by preferring a deviating cut to a simple shortening. If you feel compelled to remove a thick branch, please proceed in stages. Saw the branch from below about 40 centimeters away from the trunk. Pull out the saw and move the next cut 10 centimeters to the right or left. Now saw until the branch breaks off. Finally, saw off the stump on Astring.

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    Derivation perfected topiary

    Please do not allow yourself to be tempted to cut a massively spreading crown. The devastating result is a trumpet tree with the appearance of a pollarded willow. It succeeds more discreetly crown reduction, if you are familiar with the technique of the derivation cut. To do this, take a look at an overly long scaffold drive. Look for a lower-positioned, outward-sloping side shoot. Place the saw or scissors exactly where both shoots fork. Ideally you cut a few millimeters in the old wood. The previous side shoot rises in the hierarchy and takes over the local leadership position with immediate effect.

    Pruning ball trumpet tree

    A ball trumpet tree makes acquaintance with pruning shears more often than its big brother. This applies at least to an older specimen when the spherical crown loses its harmonious shape. The figure below illustrates how a skilful shape and thinning cut can be achieved at intervals of 2 to 3 years. How to properly prune Catalpa bignonioides 'Nana':

    • The best time to cut is in late winter
    • Cut back all main branches by up to two thirds
    • Important: leave at least a 15 to 20 cm long stump
    • Interfaces select at a short distance from a sleeping eye

    Wound treatment of larger cut surfaces has proven to be disadvantageous. Instead of completely sealing cuts with tree wax, just coat the edges of the wound. At this point there is valuable cambium wood, which is responsible for the tree's own wound healing and should be protected from frost.

    Moderate recut

    A radical trimming of the crown by up to two thirds reduces the trimming effort in the following years. If you order your ball trumpet tree to be pruned again after a few years, the scope is limited to the branches that have been expelled since then. Cut branches at the previous intersections back to the base. This incision leaves a slightly larger crown structure that retains its harmonious spherical shape.

    Thin out the spherical crown every 2 to 3 years. Shorten overhanging branches by up to two thirds. As long as a 15 to 20 centimeter long stump with dormant eyes remains, growth will continue unabated.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is a trumpet tree poisonous?

    Experts classify the trumpet tree as slightly poisonous. The tree species is not included in the official list of poisonous plants of the Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Nuclear Safety. According to an overview by the GIZ (gift Information Center North), there is a minimal risk of poisoning if plant parts are swallowed in large quantities. Quinoid substances in the wood are relevant for gardeners and can trigger allergic reactions if they come into direct contact with the skin.

    I bought my new trumpet tree with 3 thin stems that grew to 3 meters. How do I get a crown to form?

    If you want to grow a trumpet tree as a single trunk, choose the sturdiest shoot and equip it with a support rod. Cut off the remaining thin stems at ground level. If the shoot tip is 4 to 6 buds above the desired base of the crown, cut off the top bud. Lateral branches then sprout, which form as main branches to the crown.

    Winter protection is recommended for a freshly planted trumpet tree. Which tree areas are to be protected? Which material is suitable?

    Primarily the root zone and trunk should be protected from winter weather conditions. In the fall, cover the tree pit with a thick layer of mulch made from leaves and brushwood or bark mulch. Wrap the trunk with fleece or jute ribbons.

    Our trumpet tree has been in the bed for a year and has grown quickly. However, many branches are weak and keep breaking off. What to do?

    Catalpa bignonioides is easily fractured when young. You can counteract this shortcoming with regular trimming and shaping. During the first few years, regularly remove dead and damaged shoots. By cutting back the crown by a third in late winter, you encourage the growth of young, healthy and resilient branches. Every cut creates a sap accumulation in the fast-growing wood, which has a beneficial effect on a compact, dense and evenly branched crown.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Prudent gardeners act according to the motto when it comes to cutting care: recognized danger is averted danger. The following table draws attention to the three most common cutting errors with damage and gives tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    never cut spreading crown, in old age the branch tips hang like a train Thin out every 5 to 6 years and cut into shape
    oversized crown radically cut misshapen growth derive overlong scaffolding shoots
    cut in the fall no fruit decorations in winter prune in January or February
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    tips

    Strengthening the winter hardiness is a big topic in the care of the trumpet tree. So that your house tree is well prepared for severe frost, it receives a potassium-rich fertilizer in autumn. In the natural garden, comfrey manure fulfills this task. Alternatively, administer Thomaskali, Patentkali or Kalimagnesia at the latest at the end of August/beginning of September.

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Trees