The exotic Dipladenia transforms sun-kissed locations in and around the house into a sea of summer blossoms. When climbing roses and clematis give up on sweltering hot southern facades, the opulent Dipladenia varieties shine in their most beautiful flower dress. In the temperate conservatory, the floral beauties set decorative accents all year round. With a prudent care of the cut, you encourage the magnificent climbers to flower-rich top performance. This tutorial guides you through the best care of Mandevilla in a practical and understandable way.

A slight pruning promotes healthy growth of the Dipladenia

Table of Contents

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  1. Why cut
  2. sharpening
  3. maintenance cut
  4. topiary
  5. pruning
  6. frequently asked Questions

    7. Why is a pruning useful?

    High-quality dipladenia, grown by master craftsmen, do not require pruning. the not hardy Climbing plants celebrate the blossom festival from early summer to autumn and say goodbye never to be seen again after the first frost.

    If a suitable winter quarters is available, experienced home gardeners opt for perennial cultivation. Proud owners of a temperate conservatory can look forward to the picturesque funnel-shaped flowers all year round. Under these signs, cut care comes into focus. All options for a cut with tips for the best time are summarized in this table:

    cut type goal/occasion best time
    sharpening bushy growth of young plants several times after potting
    maintenance cut encourage flowering March/April, before budding begins
    topiary Shorten tendrils that are too long, clean out withered flowers during the flowering period
    pruning cut to size if there is a lack of space in the winter quarters before clearing

    Pinch off young dipladenia - this is how it works

    Small young plants that come from self-propagation or are purchased cheaply consist of a few long shoots. The tips of the shoots are removed so that a young, slightly branched Dipladenia grows bushier. In technical jargon, the gardening trick is referred to as de-sharpening or pinching. Scissors are not absolutely necessary. How to correctly de-sharpen a mandevilla:

    • The best time is once or twice during budding
    • Put on thin, disposable gloves that allow for some dexterity
    • Grasp the shoot between your thumb and forefinger just below the top pair of leaves
    • Break off to the side or pinch off with your fingernails

    Having lost the top buds, the pinched Dipladenia remembers its reserve buds at the bottom of its tendrils. There is increased sprouting of side shoots, which bear numerous flower buds in summer.

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    De-spinning bypasses dominance of spike buds

    In the genetic blueprint of Dipladenia it is written that growth towards the sky has priority. For this reason, the plant pumps reserve substances towards its top buds with all its might. Pruning destroys the floral intention and directs the growth forces into lateral buds and sleeping eyes, which then sprout cheerfully. By removing the top buds on a young Mandevilla once or twice, you will encourage bushy growth with this year's shoots bearing numerous flower buds. You also take advantage of the growth law of top promotion when overwintered Dipladenia start to sprout after a strong pruning.

    Pruning for maintenance - prelude to the flowering period

    For dipladenia that have been cared for for several years, the time window for a maintenance cut opens at the end of the winter dormant phase. The exotic creepers lay most of the flower buds on this year's shoots, so cutting back last year's faded tendrils is an advantage. It is up to your individual assessment of the extent to which a maintenance cut is carried out. We have put together all the options for a skilful cut for you below:

    • Heavy pruning: Detach the tendrils from the climbing aid and cut back to 2 buds or pairs of leaves
    • Medium cut: Loosen tendrils and shorten by half
    • Easy pruning: Cut back shoots hanging from the trellis

    Please always cut a short distance from a conveniently positioned pair of leaves. If your Dipladenia has shed its leaves in the winter quarters, cut a few millimeters above a leaf node that points in the desired direction of growth. Then tie the tendrils removed for the maintenance cut back to the trellis. Mandevilla species have no adhesive organs like ivy. The twiners are therefore dependent on your help to grow up a trellis.

    tips

    If you find the regular attachment of long tendrils to a climbing aid too annoying, cultivate a Dipladenia as a traffic light plant. The creeper only grows upright where a climbing aid is available. Planted in a hanging basket, the exotic beauty lets its long shoots dangle casually and full of flowers.

    Cut occasionally in summer

    Dipladenia is one of the self-cleaning flowering plants. In concrete terms, this means that the plant sheds withered flowers on its own. Regular trimming, as with garden hibiscus or phlox, is not necessary for a well-groomed appearance. However, the Mandevilla takes plenty of time for the process, because it aims to form seed heads for propagation. If you shorten tendrils that are too long anyway in summer, dried inflorescences should be removed at the same time. This is how your Dipladenia remains a feast for the eyes in summer:

    • Clean out wilted flowers as soon as possible to prevent the formation of seed heads
    • Only cut back shoots that are too long and sticking out of shape if necessary
    • Set the scissors just above a pair of leaves or a bud

    Please consider pruning long vines carefully in mid-summer. On this year's shoot, a Dipladenia lays the buds for colorful funnel flowers. It is better if you wrap a valuable tendril around the climbing aid and tie it there.

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    Bypass shears versus anvil shears

    Dipladenia species and varieties cultivated in our regions do not become woody. Rather, the creepers thrive with thin, herbaceous and flexible tendrils. One-hand pruning shears with a bypass mechanism are perfect for trimming. The scissors are equipped with two sharp edges, which pass each other when you squeeze the handle. This leaves smooth cuts that are as small as possible. Anvil shears work with a sharp and a blunt side. If the sharp edge presses the shoot against the anvil, there is a risk that the tendril will be crushed and not cut cleanly.

    Lack of space in the winter quarters? - pruning

    A lovingly cared for Dipladenia reaches majestic sizes of up to 300 centimetres. Not every winter quarters is suitable for these expansive dimensions. Before you dispose of the hard-working summer flower due to lack of space in autumn, cut back the plant before putting it away. Take this opportunity to remove withered flowers and dried leaves. Please limit the scope of the cut to a minimum. Complete the central maintenance cut at the end of the winter break, just before the budding begins.

    Milky juice flows freely - what to do?

    A milky-white sap is characteristic of dogbane plants such as Dipladenia. This occurs in connection with a pruning toxic secretion out. The larger a cut, the more copiously sticky milky sap flows, dripping onto lower-lying leaves and the ground. Contact with skin can cause itchy eczema. Latex causes stubborn stains on clothing, carpets and natural stone. Sticky drops mar the glossy, evergreen ornamental leaves. It is therefore advisable to take the following precautions before each cut:

    • Put on gloves with gauntlets
    • Cover clothing with apron or plastic overalls
    • Prune dipladenia outdoors
    • Alternatively, protect the floor with foil or old blankets

    Before starting to cut Mandevilla, tear up paper handkerchiefs and form small balls of them. After each cut, quickly cover the wound with a ball of paper. Cotton balls are also good for stopping the flow of juice.

    frequently asked Questions

    Can a Dipladenia overwinter outside?

    Dipladenia are generally not hardy. The minimum temperature is 5 degrees Celsius. For this reason, the climbing plants in our latitudes are mostly cultivated as annuals. No later than after the first frost, the plants die off completely, including the root system. Overwintering outdoors is not possible even with extensive protective measures. The only exception is Chilean jasmine (Mandevilla laxa). In the tub or planted out in mild winter wine-growing regions and equipped with winter protection, the climbing plant survives temperatures between -5 and -10 degrees Celsius.

    Are Dipladenia Varieties Poisonous?

    The botanical assignment to the dogbane plants already indicates it. Dipladenia varieties are poisonous to humans and animals. The exotic creeper is permeated with a white, poisonous milky sap. Intentional or unintentional consumption of leaves, flowers or fruit capsules causes severe nausea and vomiting. Skin contact with the white plant sap can cause allergies and eczema. Please always cultivate Mandevilla out of the reach of children and pets. Always wear gloves with gauntlets when caring for and cutting work.

    At what temperature should a Mandevilla be overwintered?

    From the beginning to the middle of October it is too cold for a Mandevilla on the balcony or in the garden. If the temperatures fall below 10 degrees at night, allow the exotic climbing beauty to live in bright, frost-free winter quarters. At temperatures between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius there are good prospects of an undamaged hibernation. Cozy, warm heated living rooms with well over 20 degrees Celsius are not suitable because the combination of heat and lack of light ruins every Dipladenia. With a bit of luck, a slightly tempered conservatory with a maximum of 18 degrees Celsius will elicit a year-round flowering period from a Mandevilla.

    Do the terms Dipladenia, Mandevilla, and Sundaville refer to different species of plants?

    Various names and trade names circulate around the genus Dipladenia. As a synonym for the genus name Mandevilla is common, sometimes in the French spelling Mandeville. One of the most beautiful Dipladenia varieties with fiery red funnel-shaped flowers is hidden behind the name Sundaville. The botanical Tower of Babel is completed by other trade names, with dipladenia sometimes being offered as Chilean jasmine or false jasmine because of the similar flower shapes.

    Can I use Mandeville clippings for propagation by cuttings?

    It's entirely possible. Healthy head cuttings with at least three pairs of leaves are best suited. Cut an offshoot to a length of 10 to 15 centimeters and remove all leaves except for the pair of leaves at the tip of the shoot. If flower buds are already present, these are also removed. Put a cutting two-thirds into a pot with poor potting soil and water. A transparent hood promotes rooting in a bright, warm location. Use wooden sticks or long matches as spacers to prevent contact between the cover and the cutting.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Typical pruning mistakes mean that a Dipladenia does not flower after hibernation or is attacked by diseases after pruning. The following table lists the three most common mishaps in Mandeville's average and provides tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    never cut Fewer flowers every year cut back every spring
    cut too late few or no flowers Cut in good time before growth begins
    unclean scissors Infection with diseases and pests Always clean and disinfect scissors beforehand
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    tips

    Popular Dipladenia varieties for balconies and terraces form thick, turnip-shaped roots. The roots act as storage organs for water and nutrients. Mandevilla is therefore the ideal plant for gardeners who are short on time. The need for watering is limited to average intervals of 8 to 10 days without the furious blooms suffering as a result. It is important to note that the exotic creepers are primarily watered with soft rain or stale tap water.

Category:

Indoor plants