Sage should be pruned regularly to ensure its unique benefits are fully exploited. Expert pruning care differentiates between herbaceous perennials and woody subshrubs. Read this tutorial on when and how to properly cut sage.

Blossom sage is cut twice a year

Table of Contents

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  1. Sage species differences
  2. steppe sage
  3. real sage
  4. taper cut
  5. harvest and cut
  6. frequently asked Questions

    7. Sage species differences

    The multifaceted genus sage gives home gardeners magnificent ones ornamental perennials and aromatic spice bushes equally. Each of the two categories inspires with convincing attributes, so that both variants can be found in many gardens. Expert pruning care should take into account the varied growth so that each sage species shows its best side. Representative of the extensive genus, the following overview summarizes important pruning-relevant differences for two popular species:

    Blossom sage, steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa)

    • Herbaceous Growth
    • Lavish flowering period from May to October
    • Inedible leaves and flowers
    • All plant parts above the ground die off after the first frost
    • Fresh shoots in spring from a hardy rootstock

    Spice sage, garden sage, common sage (Salvia officinalis)

    • Broad, bushy growth as a subshrub
    • Progressive lignification from base to apex
    • Herbaceous annual shoots with aromatic, edible leaves
    • Few purple-blue flowers from June to August
    • Woody shoots mostly bare

    Although sage is native to the Mediterranean, both species and the varieties derived from them prove to be very hardy in the Central European climate.

    Cut blossom sage twice a year

    In the creative garden design, a regular place is reserved for flowering sage in the perennial bed. The inedibility of its felty leaves is made up for by a lavish bloom in summertime, accompanied by a wonderful fragrance. Since flowering sage is one of the reblooming perennials, it celebrates its colorful appearance twice a season. Accordingly, the scissors are used in spring and summer. How to cut blossom sage correctly:

    • Cut off all shoots at ground level in February/March
    • Then fertilize with compost and horn shavings
    • Cut back wilted flower stalks in mid-July to early August
    • Cut about a hand’s breadth above the ground

    Summer pruning should leave some leaves on the stems for the perennial to sprout and bloom again. Then administer a mineral fertilizer that quickly takes effect and promotes growth. If the second flower pile is coming to an end, no cut is made. The dead shoots and leaves act as natural winter protection. You can only clean out wilted flower spikes if self-sowing is not desired.

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    The summer pruning of blossom sage leaves a fairly bare spot in the perennial bed for some time. Until the plant grows again, beautiful neighboring plants bridge the waiting time. Socialize steppe sage with needle-leaved girl's-eye (Coreopsis verticillata), dyer's chamomile (Anthemis) or pearl daisy 'Silver Rain' (Anaphalis triplinervis). Sage also gets along well with fountain pennisetum (Pennisetum alopecuroides), so that there are no empty bed regions.

    Spice Sage - Cutting Instructions

    Cut care on spice sage is a permanent fight against progressive lignification. Common sage carries its aromatic leaves primarily on the herbaceous annual shoots. These freeze back completely in the severe winter and sprout again in the spring. From below, the plant constantly strives to lignify its shoots. Without regular pruning, the woody process will take over and put an end to the growth of spicy leaves. In terms of cut care, sage therefore pulls together with other Mediterranean beauties such as lavender and rosemary. How to do it right:

    • The best time is between the end of February and mid-March when the weather is frost-free
    • Thin out all dead shoots at ground level
    • Cut back the remaining shoots to just above the woody areas

    Following the central form and maintenance cut, sage gratefully accepts an organic fertilizer. A combination of mature compost and horn shavings stimulates the growth of the herbal plant. In August, hardiness will benefit from a potassium-rich fertilizer, such as comfrey manure.

    Depointing optimizes crop yield

    Just a few weeks after the main cut in late winter, sage is once again the focus of cut care. In this case, the scissors can of course remain in the shed. If you prune the fresh shoots from mid-May, the measure scores with several advantages. The beginning of the flowering period is shifted so that the aroma content of the leaves is preserved longer. Furthermore, they promote further herbaceous branching, which increases crop yield and curbs woodification.

    To pinch, as de-sharpening is called in technical jargon, grasp the tip of a sage stalk between your thumb and forefinger. Use your fingernails to snap off the tip of the shoot where the next pair of leaves or buds is waiting. Of course, you can also use clean, sharp scissors for pinching.

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    Hedge trimmer masters sage giants

    If the selected location simulates Mediterranean conditions, sage develops expansive dimensions. Dedicating yourself to each individual shoot with the one-hand secateurs costs time and nerves. You are well equipped for the annual shape and maintenance cut with a two-hand hedge trimmer (77.00 €), ideally with a bypass mechanism. As long as you move in the herbaceous area when cutting, the subshrub tolerates the casual approach without any problems.

    Taper pruning reverses lignification

    If older shoots are more than half or even two-thirds lignified, there is the option of rejuvenation by means of a derivation cut. Keep an eye out for a herbaceous side shoot along the woody sage sprig. If you can't find what you're looking for, a swelling bud signals that the subshrub still has potential for herbaceous, aromatic growth. The lower the side shoot or bud is, the more radical the rejuvenation effect.

    Place the scissors just above the vegetation point. A distance of 5 to 10 millimeters guarantees that you neither cut into the herbaceous shoot or the bud nor leave an overly long stub. As illustrated in the figure below, the recommended pruning significantly reduces the local degree of woodiness and paves the way for herbaceous shoots with numerous sage leaves.

    Each year, divert older shoots to a lower-lying, herbaceous side shoot or a vital bud. Where both components are missing, photograph the shoot at ground level. In this way you promote the growth of numerous young shoots with aromatic leaves.

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    Spice Sage skimps on buds

    As a typical Mediterranean subshrub, sage goes on the defensive when you cut into the wood. As liberally as the Mediterranean herbal plant allows spicy leaves to be skewered from the herbaceous shoots, it is just as sparing when it comes to the disposition of sleeping eyes. Native shrubs can fall back on this iron reserve to continue growth after severe pruning. On spice sage, a cut into the wood usually results in the end of growth. The only exception is in the rare case that you discover a thick, vital bud on the woody shoot. If you place the scissors at a distance of 5-10 mm, there are good prospects of budding.

    Harvest and cut at the same time

    Sage gardeners with little time do the harvesting and pruning at the same time. This also has the advantage that you harvest sage exactly when its aroma content is at its zenith. The only prerequisite for the rational approach is sufficient capacity to freeze or dry the crop surplus. How to proceed step by step:

    • The best time is just before the flowering period begins
    • Shower the sage bush the day before for a clean harvest
    • Cut off whole shoots to just above the woody area
    • Thin out dead wood, stunted or diseased stems at ground level

    Never cut into the old wood, because growth usually comes to a standstill at this point. If you limit the extent of the cut to the herbaceous, leafy area, it will then sprout again, which will give you another harvest if the weather conditions are suitable. This year's harvest and cutting season for sage ends in mid-August so that the subshrub can mature before winter.

    Does the combined harvest and maintenance pruning provide a larger yield than the kitchen can use? Then look for unlignified head cuttings. With a length of 5 to 10 centimeters, the shoot tips are perfectly suited for propagation. Remove all leaves from the lower half and put each offshoot in a pot with potting soil. In a warm, partially shaded location with regular water supply, rooting progresses rapidly.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is sage hardy?

    The most popular types of sage for beds and balconies are sufficiently hardy. This applies to common sage (Salvia officinalis) and blossom sage (Salvia nemorosa) and all varieties derived from them. Silverleaf sage (Salvia argentea) and clary sage (Salvia sclarea) also prove to be frost-resistant with light winter protection. If you flirt with extravagant sage species from subtropical regions, there can be no question of winter hardiness. This applies to crested sage (Salvia viridis), honeydew melon sage (Salvia elegans) and fruit sage (Salvia dorisiana).

    Are sage flowers and leaves edible?

    Steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa) is also called blossom sage because its advantages relate to decorative aspects. The popular sage adorns the summer perennial border from May to October with picturesque flowers, accompanied by a seductive scent. If you are aiming for the harvest of spicy leaves and aromatic flowers, please use common sage (Salvia officinalis) or one of its many varieties.

    We would like to transplant our three-year-old sage to a sunnier location? When and how is it best?

    The best time to change the location of spice sage is in early spring, as long as the plant has not yet sprouted. The less root volume that is lost when digging up, the better the plant can cope with the procedure. At the new location, plant the sage in such a way that the previous planting depth is preserved. Combine transplanting with a vigorous pruning to restore the balance between below-ground and above-ground growth. A sufficient water supply is important in the subsequent period to support re-rooting.

    Is blossom sage a suitable rose partner?

    From a botanical point of view, roses and blossom sage harmonize perfectly. Both plant species have similar conditions at the site and do not get in each other's way with their roots. The essential oils also help repel aphids and other pests on roses. Last but not least, sage and roses want to be cut back at the same time in spring.

    The withered flowers of my garden sage bother me a lot. Can I cut back the perennial now in October?

    A radical pruning so close to winter is strongly discouraged. Even when dead, the herbaceous shoots serve as important winter protection. However, there is nothing wrong with cutting off the withered flower spikes if the well-groomed appearance in the bed is impaired. After the first frost, blossom sage should no longer be blended.

    Blossom sage 'Pusztaflamme' should actually grow tightly upright. In my garden it is falling apart and is partly lying on the ground. What to do?

    Severe heat and drought can cause flowering sage to fall apart. A thrown ball or careless kick are also typical causes of the mishap. The perennial grows tightly upright by nature. By cutting back all shoots to within a hand's breadth of the ground, you encourage renewed growth, this time upright.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    Anyone who cuts sage in the same way as sage will, in the worst case, struggle with a total loss of the valuable herbal plant. If common sage cheats on regular pruning, the shoots quickly become lignified and no longer provide a tasty harvest. This table draws attention to common pruning mistakes in sage, points out typical damage patterns and gives brief tips for effective prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Spice sage cut like blossom sage miserable growth to total failure Do not cut the sage into the wood
    cut into the bare wood end of growth woody shoots derive from a side shoot or a bud
    never cut oversized growth, massive lignification pruning end of February to mid-March every year

    Another common pruning mistake affects sage and sage alike. Order-loving house gardeners are tempted to cut off the dead plant parts prematurely after the onset of winter. With this measure, the Mediterranean plant loses its natural winter protection. Make a note of the date for pruning sage on the care plan at the end of February at the earliest, provided that severe frost periods are no longer to be expected.

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    tips

    Slicing spice sage leaves more clippings than the kitchen can handle. How fortunate that sage leaves retain most of their aroma after drying. Bundle whole shoots into bunches. Hang them upside down in an airy, dry place. Sage leaves are dry within one to two weeks and can be stored in the airtight screw-top jar until ready to use.

Category:

Herbs