Pillar cherries are a hit on balconies and terraces. Space-saving fruit trees are also very popular in small gardens. Hobby gardeners appreciate the uncomplicated cutting care. In this tutorial, read when and how to skillfully cut a columnar cherry.

Pillar cherries are cut after harvest

Table of Contents

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  1. time
  2. maintenance cut
  3. compensate for signs of aging
  4. Educate yourself?
  5. frequently asked Questions

    6. Best time is in summer

    In terms of the ideal time for pruning, the narrow columnar cherry is no different from the imposing cherry tree. After the harvest, you have the best overview of the fruit wood that has been removed. Furthermore, the fact that cuts close more quickly speaks for a summer cutting date. This keeps lurking fungal spores and pests at bay.

    A columnar cherry usually enters its yield phase in the third year at the latest. This eliminates the need for extensive training pruning in the winter, as is obligatory for the large cherry tree. On older specimens, a cut in the lower area is advantageous when the fruit wood begins to age.

    Never cut in the rain

    Do not cut a cherry tree at any time of the year when the weather is damp. Cuts in damp wood are a welcome target for fungal pathogens. This doesn't just apply to the usual suspects, such as powdery mildew or gray mold. Lethal wound parasites that trigger fruit tree cancer are primarily aimed at apples and pears. However, if a susceptible cherry gets in their way, the fungal spores will not miss this opportunity.

    maintenance cut

    In contrast to the conventional cherry tree in the garden, this sprout on a columnar cherry Fruit wood straight from the trunk. In combination with strong growth at a young age, cherries as column fruits are more often to be pruned. As illustrated below, maintenance pruning focuses on long side shoots. How to cut a columnar cherry correctly:

    • pillar cherry only if necessary to cut
    • The best time is after the harvest, preferably mid to late June
    • Cut back long side branches to 10 to 15 cm short cones
    • Place the scissors just above an outward or downward pointing eye
    • Do not prune the central shoot at the top in the first few years

    Side shoots that point steeply upwards compete with the trunk and are not suitable for fruiting. So that these branches do not consume valuable nutrients, they should be removed. If a shoot is in a favorable position, spread it out at an angle of about 60° to the trunk. This can be done with a spreader or a clothespin.

    After the harvest, cut back overly long side shoots of a columnar cherry to 10 to 15 cm. Thin out steep shoots or spread the wood at an advantageous angle of 60°.

    digression

    Don't prune the leader prematurely

    The timing of pruning the leading shoot tip needs to be carefully considered. Young columnar cherries are characterized by vigorous growth. As long as the top bud is enthroned on the leading branch, the law of top promotion reigns supreme. The cherry pumps most of the reserves toward its dominant tip to force growth towards the light. Lateral shoots receive less nutrients and grow correspondingly weaker. Weaker growth always causes fruit trees to form numerous flowers and fruits. Cut the top bud on the leading shoot only when growth has calmed down after a few years. The desired final height may be exceeded at first. In return, your cherry blossoms and bears fruit lavishly.

    Cut the old columnar cherry in stages

    Older columnar cherries are characterized by different growth in the upper and lower areas. In the lower half, growth slows down visibly over the years and the fruit wood ages. Harvest yield and fruit quality decrease noticeably. There is no trace of such signs of age in the upper half of the column. You can simply accept the shortcoming or compensate with a strategic cut care. How to do it:

    • Cut the old columnar cherry in 2 stages
    • Cut back vital, upper half in summer
    • Cut weak, lower half in February
    • Choose a date with frost-free, dry weather

    The split appointment has no influence on the incision. Shorten overly long, worn branches to 10 to 15 cm. Thin out competitive shoots and dead wood. The disadvantage of a late winter cut is that flower buds that have already developed fall victim to the scissors. A step-by-step pruning makes sense if the columnar cherry clear signs of aging and in any case hardly blooms or bears fruit in the lower half.

    background

    The time of pruning influences the strength of the shoots

    The later in the year you cut, the more reserve substances the roots have already released to the shoots. This dampens the juice pressure at interfaces, which can be seen in a significantly weaker budding. Conversely, a late winter pruning activates vigorous growth because the sap pressure is at its maximum. From this follows this rule of thumb: Prune strongly growing areas of a columnar cherry in summer to slow down growth. Prune weakly growing areas in February to encourage growth.

    Raising the cherry tree yourself - is that possible?

    The columnar cherry is a hit wherever majestic cherry trees are out of place. So it is obvious that hobby gardeners would like to grow the slender fruit tree variant themselves. In contrast to popular tall trees, the bar for growing a cherry as a columnar fruit is significantly higher. The following arguments speak in favor of a columnar cherry by the master gardener to acquire:

    • No specific botanical species
    • Rather targeted selection of spindle trees with an extra strong main drive
    • Read copies refined on a weak substrate

    Sweet cherries are therefore not born as columnar fruits. Rather, they initially thrive in the nursery as a spindle tree. Only when a cherry with a strikingly strong, straight central shoot and short side shoots draws attention to itself is the specimen selected for further cultivation as a columnar cherry. For this purpose, the master gardener grafts the cherry onto a slow-growing rootstock. 'GiSelA 5' enjoys high esteem thanks to its robust winter hardiness and early start of yield.

    tips

    The cherry tree does not need a support post. When grafting, tree nurseries specifically use unbreakable bases that guarantee stability in growth right from the start.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is a columnar cherry self-fertile?

    Pillar cherries sold in specialist shops are usually not self-fertile. Suppliers sometimes declare modern varieties to be self-fertile. However, this attribute should be evaluated with caution. It is fundamentally advantageous for the harvest day and fruit quality if there is a second variety nearby. This can also be a large cherry tree in the neighbor's garden.

    Does a columnar cherry planted in spring need winter protection?

    Cherries are naturally sensitive to late frosts. The greatest danger comes when temperatures drop below freezing during the flowering period. In this case, fleece or a large potato sack should be at hand. Put a hood over the cherry tree to protect the flowers from frost damage.

    3 years ago I planted a columnar cherry, which is now almost 4 meters high. Unfortunately, few side branches have formed so far. Should I cut the leading shoot now or let it continue to grow?

    In order to support the formation of side shoots, a cut on the leading shoot is the right strategy. The best time is in early spring. Prune the leader back to a stout bud. A sap builds up, which encourages lateral buds to sprout. Shorten existing side branches to 15 cm at the end of June.

    I planted my two columnar cherries, Victoria and Sylvia, last spring. Since then, both plants have grown by a meter and are now in March wearing a dense foliage, unfortunately without flowers. What can I do?

    As a rule, columnar cherries blossom from the second or third year in May. Even in the particularly mild spring, the flowers do not appear until mid/late April at the earliest. Pillar cherries develop flower buds in the previous year, provided there is a balanced nitrogen-phosphorus ratio in the soil. The heavy growth signals that your garden soil contains an excess of nitrogen. This circumstance can suppress flowering. We recommend doing a soil analysis or at least applying a high phosphorus fertilizer this summer to encourage numerous flower buds to form.

    My cherry tree had three long shoots at the top that I cut off. Do I have to expect that the process will be repeated and the plant should be cut radically?

    Of the three shoots, you should have left the middle, long leader in place. It is the tip that fulfills the function of a crown on columnar fruit. This is not a cause for concern as the cherry will grow a new leader with complementary side branches. Please do not prune the height of the new crown. Only cut back the side shoots to 10 to 15 cm at the end of June.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    A wrong pruning time or an overzealous pruning leaves behind a pillar cherry that does not deserve its name. The following table sums up the three most common cutting errors with information on damage and prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    cut in winter no flowers and cherries Cut at the end of June
    pruned every year little fruit wood cut side shoots that are too long if necessary
    never cut expansive growth with a dense network of branches prune every few years in summer
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    tips

    When caring for the cut of columnar cherries, it is not necessary to thin out the fruit hangings. In the care of apple, pear or peach, excess fruit must be removed at the end of June. You can delete this date from the care calendar on cherry trees and columnar cherries without replacement.

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Vegetable garden