Climbing roses challenge the gardener to pruning with thorny tendrils of epic length. If you ignore the differences between ramblers that flower once and climbers that flower more often, you will be denied the fairytale bloom. This tutorial gives newcomers to rose care all the trump cards for the perfect cut.

Climbing roses should be pruned with care

Table of Contents

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  1. distinguish varieties
  2. Types of cuts and dates
  3. plant cutting
  4. Cut ramblers
  5. Taper cut Rambler
  6. Conservation pruning, frequently flowering varieties
  7. Care cutting, frequently flowering varieties
  8. Taper Cut Climber
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. One-flowering and multiple-flowering varieties

    Pruning climbing roses becomes a horticultural success story if you know the flowering characteristics specific to the variety. Varieties that bloom once - called ramblers - undergo a different pruning than varieties that bloom more often - so-called climbers. We summarize the important differences below:

    Once blooming climbing roses (Rambler)

    • Flowering period: May to July
    • Flowering system: on last year's side shoots
    • Strong growth with long, flexible tendrils
    • Growth height: 350 to 900 cm
    • Application: greening of rose arches, arbors, old trees, mighty facades

    Climber roses that bloom more often

    • Flowering period: May to July, second flowering period from August to October/November
    • Inflorescence: on this year's, annual and perennial tendrils
    • Significantly larger flowers than Rambler
    • Sparse growth with woody, stiff-legged drives
    • Growth height: 200 to 350 cm
    • Application: greening of small columns, defined parts of house walls, obelisks, trellis

    An important editing-relevant difference is that Climber roses one form the framework. Each skeleton shoot bears comparatively short side shoots as valuable blossom wood. The first flowers appear on annual and perennial side shoots from May to July. At the same time, this year's tendrils sprout from the trellis shoots to enchant with a long-lasting rebloom.

    Rambler roses refrain from scaffolding. Here the growth is determined by long tendrils from the base with an annual growth of up to 600 centimeters, which bloom from June next year. Without an occasional pruning, climbing roses transform into an impenetrable tangle of old and young, meter-long shoots. The Brothers Grimm certainly had rambler roses in mind when they described the Sleeping Beauty Castle.

    Types of cuts and dates

    The rule of thumb for pruning climbing roses is: Cut once-blooming varieties once a year - cut more-blooming varieties twice a year. The following table provides an overview of the most important types of cuts with information on the best time in each case:

    Types of cuts/appointments Once flowering (Rambler) Repeat flowering (Climber)
    plant cutting on the day of planting and the following spring on the day of planting and the following spring
    maintenance cut (main cut) from the 5th year in spring in spring (March/April)
    care cut omitted in summer (end of June/beginning of July)
    taper cut every 7 years in February stages in February

    Rose gardeners are increasingly noting autumn as an additional pruning date. A separate tutorial explains the conditions under which it makes sense to blend roses again at the end of the season.

    Plant pruning and initial formation

    The best time to plant climbing roses is in autumn. This applies primarily to bare-root roses, which root quickly in the sun-warmed soil. Although roses grown in containers can be in the ground all year round, the noble flowers also benefit from an autumn planting time. Plant pruning is advantageous for both cultivation variants because it makes it palatable for young climbing roses to start at the new location. Here’s how to do it professionally:

    Bare root climbing rose

    • On the day of planting: cut back roots to 20 to 25 cm in length, remove damaged shoots
    • In spring: Shorten shoots to 3 to 5 buds

    container rose

    • On planting day: roots not prune, remove damaged branches
    • In spring: cut back shoots to 3 to 5 buds

    Climbing roses grown in pots are usually not pruned. An exception applies to root strands with twisted habit that protrude over the edge of the pot or grow out of the bottom opening. Roots with spiral growth do not give a climbing rose any stability and are cut back to the point of emergence at the ball of the earth.

    On bare-root climbing roses, cut back the root strands to 20 to 25 cm before planting. Container roses are left uncut on the day of planting. Next spring, prune all shoots to 3 to 5 buds.

    Prune the rambler once a year

    The reward for an annual maintenance pruning of Rambler roses is an opulent bloom in the summertime. Climbing roses that bloom once have evolved directly from wild roses. As a result, their long tendrils sprout directly from the base, bear dense clusters of flowers in early summer and inspire with decorative rose hips in autumn. As long as you can reach the vigorous vines without risky climbing, direct the growth in the desired direction. How to cut correctly:

    • Prune ramblers once a year from the 5th year in February
    • Thin out bare, dead tendrils at the base and pull out
    • Overlong shoots hanging at head height lead to a side shoot positioned further down
    • Tie this year's rods diagonally to horizontally over the course of the summer

    If possible, do not cut back long shoots from last year, because these bear the most flower buds. If you feel compelled to prune an old tendril, split the shoot into several pieces. This makes it easier to pull the old wood out of the climbing rose. In case of doubt, shaking it gently can loosen the entanglements so that no young tendrils are affected when you pull them out.

    Annual pruning keeps strong-growing rambler roses in order. Thin out aging ground shoots. Overly long tendrils direct you to a lower-lying young shoot. Tie this year's tendrils horizontally.

    tips

    Once-blooming ramblers demonstrate their vigor by sometimes sprouting very long, very thin shoots just before flowering. Cut back these “fishing rods” to two to three eyes.

    Rejuvenate rambler roses every 7 years

    Climbing roses that have not been pruned for a long time are transformed into an impenetrable network of vital, senescent and dead tendrils. Significant weight makes rambler roses a safety hazard over the years. It is advisable for once flowering climbing roses every 5 to 7 years to note a makeover cut on the schedule. The best time is in late winter, in accordance with the regulations in the Federal Nature Conservation Act. How to do it right:

    • Put on safety goggles, thorn-proof clothing and gloves
    • First cut young shoots that are close to the ground free, detach them from the trellis and place them on the ground
    • Cut dead, bare tendrils with scissors
    • Loosen and pull out sections of the climbing aid

    When pruning for a taper, you will benefit from the pliable nature of rambler vines. Especially young, vital wood can be laid on the ground without any problems and then attached again to the climbing aid or the host tree.

    Climbing roses that bloom more often - instructions for maintenance pruning

    When the forsythias bloom in spring, the time window for pruning opens. Climbing roses that flower more often form a stable framework and grow more slowly than ramblers. These properties simplify cutting care. The primary goal is to encourage numerous side branches. Perennial side shoots bloom from the end of May and pass the floral baton on to this year's side branches in August, which bloom until the first frost. With this cut you do it right:

    • Detach as many shoots as possible from the trellis and lay them on the ground on the side
    • Cut back all side shoots on trellis shoots to 3 to 5 eyes
    • Make an incision 5 to 10 mm from one eye
    • Careful: do not cut back promising long shoots from the previous year
    • From the 5th year: Thin out one or two older skeletal shoots as a continuous rejuvenation measure

    The image below illustrates what a climbing rose should look like before and after spring pruning. You have done everything right if the skeleton drives are reminiscent of a "chicken ladder". The tiered structure supports the growth of side blossom wood and simplifies formation on the trellis.

    The sketch illustrates how you should cut back the shoots of the second and third order except for two or three eyes, so that the shoots can be formed airy and decoratively on the trellis after the spring cut.

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    Tie rose tendrils horizontally

    Vertical rose tendrils become bare below. Sprouting and flowering only take place at the upper end, because the growth law of peak support governs here. As soon as you tie a tendril horizontally, growth calms down. Now your climbing rose has time and leisure to create numerous leaf and flower buds, distributed over the entire length of the shoot. bind young rose shoots down the trellis horizontal on. Older shoots in the upper area you direct a oblique position. This optimizes the flowering splendor and ensures an even formation on the trellis.

    Climbers that flower more often - instructions for care pruning

    After the first flowering run, the momentum kicks into another rose festival as you groom out your climbers. The summer pruning of climbing roses is very simple and still achieves a maximum of flowering until the first frost. This is how you correctly cut climbing roses that bloom repeatedly at the end of June/beginning of July:

    • Carefully inspect climbing roses for nesting birds so that you do not cut them or cut them later
    • Sharpen and clean pruning shears, wear thorn-resistant gloves with gauntlets and safety goggles
    • Hold the faded tendril in one hand and bend it slightly
    • Apply scissors a short distance above the first complete leaflet

    Tie up this year's addition oblique to horizontal on the trellis. As spreading climbers, climbing roses do not have attachment organs or the ability to independently wind themselves around a strut. Please use soft, stretchable tying material that will not cut into the bark and can be easily opened for pruning measures.

    digression

    Test cut gives security

    Some of the prettiest climbers react indignantly to the thinning out of old ground shoots. If you are subjecting a frequently flowering climbing rose to continuous rejuvenation for the first time, you should carry out a trial pruning. For the test run, cut off a maximum of one third of the aged branches at ground level. If the climber drives out again willingly, remove the remaining old branches next spring. If not, your climbing rose is one of the sensitive varieties. Plant a ground cover rose or small shrub rose to cover the bare foot. In spring, tulips cover up the aesthetic shortcoming with their picturesque blossoms.

    Rejuvenate climbers in stages

    Older climbing roses age at the tips of the shoots and bare from the base. Instead of discarding a formerly magnificent climber rose, it is worth experimenting with one in stages Rejuvenation. Spreading the measure over 3 years has proven to be a good practice in gardening. This is how the plan works:

    • The best time for each stage is in February when the weather is frost-free and dry
    • Saw off a third of the dead or bare scaffolding shoots at ground level
    • On the remaining skeletal shoots, massively branching tips are transferred to a side shoot further down
    • Then cut back the young side shoot to 2 to 3 buds

    The already rejuvenated areas undergo a maintenance cut in the spring and a care cut in the summer. During the rejuvenation, please pay particular attention to an adequate water and nutrient supply. With an organic complete fertilizer, such as Oscorna Animalin, you can stimulate growth. Apply the fertilizer from April and water generously.

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    Derivation - fundamental cutting technique

    In the pruning care of trees, shrubs and roses, the derivation pruning plays a key role. The secret of the fundamental pruning technique lies in the fact that disused branches are strategically redirected to a promising side shoot. On an overgrown scaffold shoot of your climbing rose, look for a conveniently positioned side branch in the lower area. At the fork of old and young, cut off the branched broomstick.

    frequently asked Questions

    My repeat flowering climbing roses are 2 years old and have bloomed magnificently this year. Should I prune the climbers in the fall now or wait until spring?

    Climbing roses that bloom frequently can be cut throughout the season. The best time for the main cut is in the spring when the forsythia are in bloom. Regularly cleaning out wilted blossoms will lure out fresh rose petals. In wind-exposed locations, it makes sense to prune in autumn so that you can get the roses close to the climbing aid. This reduces the risk of wind damage to a minimum.

    How many individual leaves are in the leaflets of a climbing rose? Meter-long shoots as thick as a thumb sprout on our Climber without side branches and with five to seven pinnate leaves. Is it wild shoots?

    Five- to seven-part pinnate leaves are a criterion for shoots of a tea rose. Under the influence of cold, wet weather or when there is an excess of nitrogen, climbing roses tend to grow very long, so-called Geiltriebe. Of course, even the normal annual shoots on young climber roses can become extremely long. An annual cut in the spring promotes strong branching in the long term. You can identify wild shoots by their lighter foliage and nine to fifteen pinnate leaves.

    We planted the 'Santana' climbing rose, which blooms often, in May. It's blooming for the first time in July. Does the rose need a climbing aid? Will a cut actually be necessary next year?

    Climbing roses cannot do without a stable climbing aid. The tendrils do not have their own attachment organs, but must be untied and guided accordingly. As they grow, climbing roses spread their thorny side shoots to entangle themselves with a trellis or tree bark. In principle, you can let a climbing rose grow uncut. An annual cut in early spring is advantageous for a decorative arrangement on the trellis and an opulent abundance of flowers. If you cut your climbing rose in stages and tie the tendrils diagonally to horizontally, it will quickly green the facade and form flowers over the entire surface.

    Are climbing roses suitable for a bucket? How big should the pot be at least?

    If a climbing aid is available, you can keep climbers and ramblers in the bucket. Another important requirement is a sufficient supply of water and rose fertilizer.(12.86€) A bucket should be at least 70 cm deep so that the deep-rooted plants can develop well. As the growth progresses, repot a climbing rose into a larger bucket as soon as the previous container is fully rooted.

    Our rambler rose grows into an apple tree that dies due to fungal attack. When is the best time to transplant the climbing rose? What is the best way to proceed?

    When your climbing rose has shed its foliage, consider transplanting. Dig the root ball as deep and wide as possible to reduce the loss of root mass. Cut the rambler rose back to 50 centimeters above the ground and plant it promptly in the new destination. Please choose a location where there have been no rose plants in the previous 3 to 4 years to avoid the problem of soil fatigue.

    The heavy weight of our climbing rose damaged the rose arch. When and how far can I shorten the rose for repair work?

    It is easily possible to cut back a climbing rose by up to two thirds. The disadvantage of pruning is the loss of flowers over several years. There are two dates to choose from. A climbing rose copes best with the measure in October or February.If you do the pruning before winter, cover the plant with a fleece rosette. To make up for the lost plant mass quickly, we recommend giving an organic complete fertilizer, such as Oscorna Animalin, from April onwards.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    If the gardener prune his once-blooming climbing rose like a multi-blooming climber rose, all hopes of the next blooming season are gone in the worst case. If climbing roses are barefoot or suffer from diseases, they are also victims of incorrect pruning. The following table summarizes the three most common pruning errors with helpful tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Rambler cut like climber Failure of the next flowering period Thin out once-flowering varieties once a year
    long tendrils only shortened progressive balding from the base Cut climbing roses in stages (keyword chicken ladder)
    cut aimlessly Growth depression, dried up buds, rampant diseases Cut 5-10 mm above an eye
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    tips

    When stunted climbing roses worry their gardener, the problem often lies in inadequate foot soldiers. Although roses and lavender complement each other visually, their demands on the water and nutrient supply differ widely. Better suited as underplanting are phlox, lady's mantle or gypsophila, which are also welcome companions with clematis.

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Vegetable garden