Phloxes don't stop at one flower sequence. The romantic-opulent flower beauties are among the growing perennials. A targeted cut at the right time spurs flame flowers on to a colorful second bloom. Those who reach for the scissors beforehand will be rewarded with an extra long flowering period. Tidy gardeners prune their phlox one last time before winter. With a gentle cut, nature has a say in the choice of date. This tutorial examines the whole range of advantageous editing options. You can find out when and how to properly cut phlox here.

Fading should be removed promptly

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. remount cut
  3. Chelsea cut
  4. fall pruning
  5. spring pruning
  6. taper cut
  7. vase cut
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Types of cuts with time

    When phloxes turn the perennial bed into a summer sea of blossoms, they vie for the favor of insects. The only goal of the colorful flower umbels is pollination as quickly as possible, so that numerous seeds for the floral offspring are produced. In this respect, there is disagreement between phlox and gardener, because the latter want a never-ending flowering period without the hassle of self-sowing. Different types of cut direct the growth and flowering of phlox in the desired direction. The following table summarizes all cutting options together with tips on the best time:

    cut type goal/occasion best time
    Clean out withered inflorescences promote fall rebloom just before the end of the first bloom
    Chelsea cut prolongation of the flowering period Mid to late May, before flowering begins
    Tidy pruning Preparation for the winter time Late autumn, beginning of winter
    gentle pruning Clear the bed for this year's budding mid-April to early May
    rejuvenation by division revitalize old phlox Late fall or early spring
    vase cut Cut flowers for the vase during the flowering period

    Clean out phlox - instructions for remounting cut

    Phloxes belong to the illustrious perennial community, whose members are encouraged to repeat flowering. The floral masterpiece is referred to in technical jargon as "remounting". In concrete terms, this means that the flowers regenerate after being cut back and bloom again. Instead of investing energy in the growth of seed heads, many Phlox species thrive again and extend the flowering period. This is how the correct replacement cut succeeds:

    • The best time is just before the end of the first bloom
    • As soon as the first individual flowers of an umbel wither, it is cut
    • Start the scissors over the next healthy pair of leaves

    The figure below shows the best timing and interface. It undoubtedly means a lot of effort to cut off some of the phlox umbels that are still in bloom. Nevertheless, do not wait until all the individual, plate-shaped flowers have withered. At this point, the formation of seed heads has already begun and your phlox lacks the energy reserves for a rebloom.

    As soon as the first flowers of an umbel wither, cut off the inflorescence. Position the scissors over the nearest pair of healthy leaves.

    This is how the Chelsea cut succeeds

    In addition to regular trimming, you can noticeably extend the flowering period with a tried and tested style of pruning. A skillful cut before flowering begins achieves a positive effect on the overall duration. The Chelsea cut - also known as the Chelsea chop - is not only intended to extend the flowering period. At the same time, a phlox is stimulated to a richly branched, bushy growth with numerous flower buds. How to cut correctly:

    • The best time is between the end of May and the beginning of June, before the flowering period begins
    • Cut back the outer stems of a phlox perennial by a third
    • Optionally shorten all stems or a part

    With the original Chelsea pruning, the outer stems are cut back on all perennials. As a result of pruning, each phlox develops new side shoots and grows bushier. The flowering time is pushed back by four to six weeks because the buds form and open along the cut shoots with a time delay.

    Can't bring yourself to take a radical approach? Then we recommend pruning the stems in the front perennial area. As a result, wilted, bare stems are concealed within the plant's center during the summer when the foreground late bloomers bloom.

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    Bypass or anvil shears?

    All efforts to achieve the perfect Chelsea chop or replacement cut on phlox are wasted if unsuitable cutting tools are used. Leaving behind crushed and bruised stems, you will look in vain for the bright umbels of flowers. One-hand pruning shears with a bypass mechanism are well suited for smooth cuts. The scissors work with two sharp blades that move past each other. In contrast, anvil shears are equipped with a sharp blade and a blunt opposite side, the anvil. The mechanism reduces the effort required, but carries the risk of crushed shoots. When it comes to cutting the herbaceous flower stalks of a phlox, bypass scissors are clearly in the lead.

    Cut phlox in the fall

    Traditionally, gardeners prune dead perennials in the fall. The measure ensures order in the bed and acts as a preparation for the next budding in spring. In order for colorful swabs of fresh flame flowers to appear in the garden as early as possible, all worn-out parts of the plant must give way. How to properly cut phlox in the fall:

    • The best time is before the onset of winter
    • Hold dried flower stems in bunches with one hand
    • Bend tufts to one side
    • Take a knife or garden sickle in the other hand
    • phlox stem hand breadth cut above the ground

    Clippings of healthy phlox are excellent as mulch (€239.00) to feed soil life together with compost. After autumn pruning, leave the shoots and leaves on the bed soil. Various insects know how to use the remains as a shelter during the cold season. In the course of decomposition, dead phlox stalks release valuable nutrients into the soil, where busy microorganisms make them available for the next generation of plants.

    Grasp dead stalks with one hand and bend the tuft a little to one side. With the other hand, cut off the shoots a hand’s breadth above the ground.

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    Garden sickle for skilful perennial pruning

    The curved cutting edge glides effortlessly through dead perennial stalks. The sickle cuts even small branches in no time at all. The garden sickle works more effectively than conventional pruning shears and more precisely than any hedge shears. In fact, it is an import from Japan, where the perennial sickle is traditionally used for cutting bamboo, thin branches, grasses and perennials. The blade is razor sharp and has a self-sharpening grooved edge. At the same time, the risk of injury for the gardener is low, because it is only cut when the plant is pulled. The blade of a perennial sickle will not cut under pressure.

    Spring cut - gentle on nature

    In spring there is a big difference between populated areas and the wild. While in carefully tended gardens at the end of winter green tones dominate with the first splashes of color from early flowering plants, beige and brown tones predominate in Mother Nature's realm. There are dead stalks on meadows and wild perennial areas, in which the hibernating insects are preparing for spring. Last year's seed pods are a valuable food source for resident and returning songbirds.

    In the wild, the colors of spring arrive much later. Dry perennial stalks still have important tasks to fulfill beforehand. Only when spring storms and an awakening animal world have snapped most of the stems in April does the young green gradually assert itself.

    Gardeners who are close to nature give a lot of space to natural growth and decay. The perennial pruning is not on the schedule until April - completely in harmony with nature. This has the advantageous side effect for your phlox that dead shoots and leaves reliably protect the rootstock in the ground from moisture and frost during the winter. The first centimeters of young shoots benefit from this protection when March and April surprise with delayed ground frosts.

    The only difference between gentle spring pruning and bold autumn pruning is a careful approach. Cut off dead plant parts above green young shoots if they have already ventured out of the ground. At this stage, cutting is usually no longer necessary. The process of decomposing the shoots from the previous year has progressed so far that the stems come off by themselves if you pull on them with your fingers.

    Rejuvenate old phlox by division

    Over the years, a phlox loses vitality and willingness to bloom. Do not simply accept the stagnant abundance of flowers on your phlox. By extending the pruning to a division of the root ball, you bring fresh impetus to growth. The method is primarily suitable for the high flame flower (Phlox paniculata) and resulting varieties. A perennial best copes with the procedure during dormancy. How to rejuvenate an old phlox by division:

    • Time slot is open in autumn (November) and spring (March/April)
    • Cut back dead shoots to a hand’s breadth above the bed soil
    • Cut out the root ball in a circle with a spade
    • Push the spade under the rootstock and loosen it with up and down movements
    • Lift the bales out of the ground and place them on a solid surface

    The division succeeds excellently with a straight spade blade. Split the root ball in half. You can divide a very large rootstock into four segments, as long as each section has at least 6 to 8 shoots. Plant each piece of phlox in a sunny location with fresh, moist and nutrient-rich soil so that the previous planting depth is maintained. Enrich the soil in the planting hole with compost and horn shavings (€32.93) to promote rooting. Water regularly and plentifully afterwards. A positive side effect of the makeover is an increase for free.

    Cut phlox for the vase

    A phlox doesn't mind if you cut off a few flower stalks for a colorful bouquet. Properly cut and planted, the fragrant flower heads stay fresh for up to 12 days in a vase. The best time to cut vases is in the morning after the morning dew has evaporated. Choose umbels whose first flowers have already unfurled. Cut a flower stalk at an angle at the bottom. Remove the leaves where a stalk will later be in the water. Phlox shows itself from its most beautiful side as a vase decoration in room-warm water, which is changed daily.

    frequently asked Questions

    Powdery mildew is spreading on my phlox - what to do?

    Powdery mildew is one of the most common plant diseases affecting phlox. The fungal infection is transmitted by the wind, rain and irrigation water droplets and unclean scissors. The unmistakable symptom is a mealy-grey growth of fungi that spreads to the leaves and shoots. Immediately cut off affected parts of the plant and dispose of the rest in the household waste. To prevent further spread, treat sick phlox and neighboring plants with environmentally friendly net sulfur or the proven household remedy made from one liter of water and one eighth of a liter of fresh milk.

    Is the phlox thrush cut immediately after flowering in September?

    Large-flowered phlox will usually give you a second bloom if you prune the perennial after the main bloom. The best time is when the first petals on the umbel wither. If you cut above the next healthy pair of leaves, lower-lying buds will be activated and will bloom in a short time.

    I cut back my tall phlox after flowering. Should I fertilize the perennial again in August? If so, is compost suitable or is blue grain better?

    If the Flame Flower is fertilized with a concentrated load of nitrogen in autumn, the perennial will be lost in winter. Fertilizers, such as blue corn, prompted vigorous growth that left phlox vulnerable to the first frost. Give your phlox August through winter to mature. The flowers in the garden are only fertilized from the moment they sprout until the end of July at intervals of 2 weeks with compost and horn shavings. Alternatively, give a long-term fertilizer, such as blue grain, once in May.

    Should I prune the carpet phlox after flowering?

    Small phlox species and varieties do not need pruning. Just let the carpet phlox (Phlox douglasii) keep growing. In winter, the above-ground parts of the plant die off, making way for renewed flowering the following year.

    My phlox suffered from powdery mildew throughout the summer, which I repeatedly fought with fungicides. Now the flowering period is over and powdery mildew is spreading again. Should I use antifungal agent again or cut off the plant?

    Since autumn is just around the corner, the perennial is slowly retreating. It is therefore advisable to cut back the affected parts of the plant to a hand's breadth above the ground. It is important to note that you do not throw the clippings on the compost. Please dispose of the shoots in the household waste bin or burn them in the fire basket. At this point in time, you will no longer achieve successful control with fungicides.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    When the flowering period comes to a premature end, efforts to repeat flowering come to nothing, or Phlox disappoints with puny buds, it's a classic omission. To save you from such annoyances, the following table lists the three most common pruning errors with tips for successful prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    no remount cut No magnificent second bloom cut off faded flowers
    cleaned up too late no rebloom Start pruning when the first individual flowers of a cluster wither
    Phlox never recorded and shared steadily declining willingness to bloom every few years rejuvenate by division

    tips

    Flame flowers should not be missing in the insect-friendly garden. The bright flowers of phlox are a popular destination for butterflies. Swallowtails, Aurora butterflies and Co. don't give a damn that the perennials are native to distant North America. The main thing is that the opulent perennials thrive with single flowers so that bees, bumblebees and butterflies can feast on their rich buffet of nectar and pollen.

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Herbs