As a solitaire and hedge, Thuja Smaragd makes other conifers fade with its intense blaze of colour. If you don't just leave the premium variety among the trees of life to its own devices, you will be rewarded with a long-lived and shapely conifer in emerald green needles. This tutorial answers all questions about pruning Thuja occidentalis Smaragd.

The Thuja Smaragd is pruning compatible, but you can still do a lot wrong

Table of Contents

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  1. Tricky cut
  2. Types of cuts and dates
  3. Built-up cut solitaire
  4. Construction cut hedge
  5. Topiary hedge
  6. Pruning hedge
  7. Thinning cut solitaire
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Tricky cut

    If you have prescribed a pruning of your Thuja Smaragd, the cut requires special attention. For conifers in general and arborvitae in particular, pruning can have fatal consequences if specific growth is not taken into account. It is characteristic of Thuja occidentalis and other conifers that they no longer sprout from old wood.

    The reason for the handicap is the lack of sleeping eyes as an "iron growth reserve" when branches, twigs or trunks fall out. Most deciduous trees will set up a multitude of dormant buds that will ensure regrowth after pruning. Thuja Smaragd is forever disfigured if you prune the shrub into old wood. As long as the incision on the green-needled branch area concentrated, a tree of life proves to be well tolerated by pruning.

    Reasons and dates for the cut - types of cut

    A leisurely growth of 10 to 20 centimeters per year does not prevent Thuja Smaragd from reaching a majestic height of 6 meters over the years and a expansive width of up to 2 meters uncut. These dimensions entail considerable space problems in a small garden. The concerns expressed about a radical cut recommend regularly reaching for the pruning shears. In order to keep growth under control without affecting the emerald-green blaze of colour, the rule of thumb is: it is better to cut frequently and moderately than infrequently and vigorously. The following table familiarizes Thuja gardeners with all the options for professional pruning:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment
    Built-up cut solitaire build a stable framework early February to early March
    Construction cut hedge shapely growth, dense branching early February to early March
    Topiary hedge Height and width growth control, trapezoidal cutting February
    Pruning hedge Shape retention, neat appearance late June to mid-July
    Thinning cut solitaire Remove deadwood, preserve growth habit February

    You can remove a radical rejuvenation cut from the list of sensible types of cuts without replacement. Thuja Smaragd must never be pruned into old wood. This premise implies that you can use the conifer as a shrub or hedge don't sit on the stick can without provoking total failure.

    Build up solitaire in steps

    Stiff, upright and slender growth is characteristic of Thuja Smaragd. High-quality young plants leave the nursery with several scaffold shoots. These compete with each other and usually sprout on the exposed side in order to win the race to the light. The result is a one-sided weight distribution, so that the tree of life falls apart under the influence of snow pressure or strong winds. A targeted build-up cut prevents the unwanted process and strengthens the stability within the conifer. How to do it right:

    • The best time is from the second or third year in February
    • Let the three strongest skeletal shoots grow uncut as a supporting framework
    • Cut the side shoots that come out from the framework in a stepped pattern

    Closely inspect a solitary Thuja Smaragd each late winter. Pruning is perfect when several side branches gather around three uncut main shoots at different heights. This is achieved through a derivation cut. To trim a side shoot that is too long, look in the top third of the needled area a strong side branch. Make the cut where both shoots fork.

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    Premature cutting of the main shoots marks the end of height growth

    A Thuja Smaragd continues to grow slowly but steadily upwards as long as top buds are enthroned on its central shoots. This applies equally to the trimming of solitaires and hedges. Only prune shoot tips if no further growth is desired. The growth law of top promotion teaches us that once top buds are removed, the forces of growth are distributed to lower-lying buds. As a result, a Thuja Smaragd will always stretch when stripped of its top buds.

    Built-up cut guarantees an opaque hedge

    Thuja Smaragd takes its time with growth. With a growth rate of 10 to 30 centimetres, it takes many years of patience until the trees of life form an opaque hedge. Understandably, every centimeter of green is noted with joy, so gardeners do not prune their thuja hedge in the first few years. As a result, a looser habit develops that is particularly susceptible to windthrow and snow pressure. For this reason, this tutorial advocates a gradual build-up pruning aimed at a densely branched and lavishly needled thuja emerald hedge. How to do it:

    • The best time is from the second year in February on a frost-free day
    • Thuja emerald hedge build trapezoidal
    • Open strings as a guide for the conical cutting profile
    • The previous year's increase prune down to 4 or 5 centimeters
    • Do not prune the hedge crown until the final height is reached
    • Cut off branches growing into the hedge at the base

    The gradual upbringing of a thuja emerald hedge takes special care of all top buds as long as the desired final height is not reached. Blend all sides and flanks to within 5 centimetres. The hedge should be wider at the base than in the crown area for light-flooded growth. Annual pruning of the lateral shoot tips in the needled area promotes dense branching, because buds further down the shoot also benefit from the sap flow.

    A trapezoidal cutting profile is equally advantageous for solitaires and hedges. If Thuja Smaragd grows a fifth to a third wider at the bottom than in the crown area, their shoots do not shade each other. This promotes photosynthesis and allows green needle scales to sprout deep into the interior of the plant.

    Cut thuja emerald hedge into shape

    Once a thuja emerald hedge has reached the perfect height and density, the build-up ends in one annual topiary. The cut is considerably simplified because you can use the clearly recognizable cuts from the previous year as a guide. There is no longer any danger of accidentally cutting too deep into the old wood. This also eliminates the need to install orientation aids for the recommended trapezoidal shape. How to complete the central topiary with gardening expertise:

    • The best time for the topiary is in February when the weather is frost-free and overcast
    • Thin out dead wood, crossing or touching shoots beforehand
    • Set up with hedge trimmers (€77.00) in such a way that the view is directed towards the uncut green area
    • Swing the motorized scissors up and down evenly, parallel to the hedge surface
    • Cut as close as possible to the previous year's cuts

    In contrast to the build-up cut, a topiary leaves only a few millimeters of fresh, green needle scales. For a straight cut surface, please work on the hedge sides with stretched arms and shoulders. You can cut the hedge crown perfectly with swinging movements from your back.

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    Adequate tool for every type of cut

    If the right cutting tool is available, cutting Thuja Smaragd is a gardening pleasure. In order to skilfully cut a hedge into shape, an electric hedge trimmer does the cutting work accurately and as quietly as a whisper. If the hedge is more than 10 meters long, you should ideally use a petrol-powered hedge trimmer to cut it. For the independence of battery or power cable, the noise of the machine is exceptionally accepted in order to cut the mighty green wall. The hedge trimmer can remain in the shed for the topiary on the solitaire. Since the cut is concentrated on individual branches, a high-quality one-handed pruning shears will do the job with flying colors. It is up to you to decide whether you prefer bypass or anvil shears.

    Summer cut for a well-groomed hedge

    Under ideal conditions, a thuja emerald hedge grows up to 30 centimeters a year. The well-groomed appearance suffers as a result, because a noseful of shoots protrude from the hedge shape. This is the ideal time window for a regulating care cut end of June open. Shortly before St. John's Day, June 24th, thujas and other plants take a short break in growth and then sprout again with reduced intensity.

    If you cut off a third of this year's growth in summer, your thuja emerald hedge will thrive all the more densely and bushily. Alternatively, you can simply shorten branches that protrude from the mold. It is important to note that you prune by the beginning of September at the latest so that fresh shoots mature in time before winter.

    Breeding birds always have priority

    In the Federal Nature Conservation Act is a strict grace period prescribed for pruning. Basically it is from March 1st to September 30th prohibited from trimming hedges, shrubs or treetops. The breeding season of native and imported birds extends over the defined period. Any disruption or even expulsion will be punished with fines of up to 50,000 euros. In exceptional cases, slight grooming cuts are permitted, provided they focus on this year's growth. Furthermore, before cutting back, make sure that no nests in the wood condition.

    Carefully inspect Thuja Smaragd for feathered residents before any pruning. If you find what you are looking for, please postpone the editing time to a later date. A tree of life can easily cope with a pruning at the end of the breeding season between the middle and the end of August.

    tips

    Use this rule of thumb when choosing an appointment for cutting Thuja Smaragd: Never cut in frost, strong heat or blazing sun.

    Solitaire benefits from thinning out

    If a Thuja Smaragd as a solitaire is given a professional pruning, the pruning is reduced to an occasional thinning out of deadwood. As illustrated in the figure below, you can use this opportunity to cut back overly long or low-hanging shoots. How to do it right:

    • Thin out solitary Thuja Smaragd every 3 to 5 years
    • Saw off deadwood on the branch without damaging the trunk bark
    • The best time is in February when the weather is frost-free
    • Long, arching hanging branches lead to a side shoot

    If you are forced to prune a dead or unfavorable branch, there is a risk of a large, dark gap. In this case, only cut after you have bent the affected shoot to the side as a test. If the hole is too big, move the intersection further outwards.

    Oversized Thuja Smaragd with unkempt hanging shoots brings a combination of clearing and shape pruning back into balance. Thin out dead branches. Shorten long, overhanging branches with a deflection cut.

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    Derivative cut prevents brown gaps

    The cutting technique of the derivation helps private and professional gardeners over many a hurdle in cutting care. Designed for the perfect fruit tree pruning on fruit trees, a derivative pruning also guarantees the best pruning result on ornamental trees such as Thuja Smaragd. Don't just cut a branch that's too long just anywhere. Instead, choose the intersection at the fork to a young, fresh side shoot. From now on, the previously subordinate branch will assume a leading position at this point, without creating a disruptive gap in appearance. You can also use the derivation to shorten a tree of life that has grown too tall.

    frequently asked Questions

    Accidentally cut into the old wood so my Thuja Smaragd now has a gap - what to do?

    Not paying attention for a moment and the scissors have already gotten into the needleless shoot area. To ensure that there is no permanent gap in your Thuja Smaragd at this point, proceed as follows: pull neighboring, green branches into the gap and tie them there. When tying, please use soft hose ties that do not cut into the bark. It may take some time before the resulting gap has closed and the binding material can be removed again.

    Is Thuja Smaragd suitable for keeping in a bucket? If so, how big should the pot be?

    Arborvitae have no objection to cultivation in pots. As long as there is an adequate supply of water and nutrients, the conifers will thrive just as well as in the bed. So that a Thuja Smaragd does not tip over in the bucket, the container should always be wider than the plant. At the beginning we recommend a pot volume of 25 to 30 liters. Parallel to the growth, the tub must regularly enlarge so that the dimensions are correct.

    We would like to plant an easy-care, evergreen coniferous hedge that will be a maximum of 200 to 250 centimeters high and 50 centimeters wide. We associate low-maintenance with low effort for pruning. Is Thuja Smaragd a suitable strain for this plan?

    Among the most popular Arborvitae varieties, Thuja Smaragd grows the slowest. Furthermore, the conifer remains lower and slimmer overall than varieties such as Columna or Malonyana. With increasing age, Thuja Smaragd will clearly exceed the desired height and width. By pruning the hedge early once a year, you keep the growth habit compact and narrow. Regular pruning is better than topping the shrubs once to 250 centimeters when they get too big. In this case, there is a noticeable increase in thickness in the lower area, which requires an even stronger shape cut.

    In a new development area, I plan to plant Thuja Smaragd as an enclosure hedge. The soil condition is problematic, because it is a former field that was filled with sand and gravel to a depth of 170 centimeters, so that there are hardly any humus components. How deep does the tree of life variety have roots and how do I have to create the planting ditch?

    In a sandy-gravelly soil, the thuja hedge will not grow. The root depth of Thuja Smaragd depends largely on the local conditions, so that a specific measurement cannot be made. Experience has taught us that in normal garden soil a root depth of 50 to 75 centimeters is reached after 10 years. We therefore recommend digging a 1 meter wide and deep ditch for the thuja hedge, which you fill with topsoil.

    I'm forced to severely cut back a 25 year old Thuja Emerald hedge deep into the old wood. The vertical main shoots still have residual green at the tips. Can I stimulate growth here by clipping the branches and sticking a young sprig of greenery into the slot, similar to grafting fruit trees?

    With a probability bordering on certainty, scribing is just as unpromising as finishing. Conifers have stopped growing in old wood forever. This also applies to Thuja Smaragd. After a hard pruning, the hedge will only sprout again if it is limited to the green area.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    If the emerald green needle dress is disfigured by brown spots or the thuja emerald hedge is bare, the gardener has made a classic pruning mistake. In order to protect the readers of this tutorial from mistakes in cutting care, the following table picks up the three most common mistakes with tips for effective prophylaxis:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    cut into the old, brown wood no more green shoots, brown spots always cut in the green needled shoot area
    no trapezoid shape when trimming the hedge bare, patchy hedge base, premature bare from within conical hedge profile with a broad base and narrow crown
    cut in the heat and blazing sun brown, dried shoot tips ideally blend in a cloudy sky

    tips

    If thuja emerald bushes enclose the property as a hedge, the shiny green shoots near the ground sometimes turn brown in winter. The cause is road salt, which is still used in many communities to keep icy roads passable. As a preventative measure, stretch out foil as a protective wall in front of your Thuja Smaragd hedge. On mild days, hose down the arborvitae to remove saline spray. In February, cut off browned shoot tips with hedge trimmers.

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