- origin
- growth
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- use
- Which location is suitable?
- What soil does the plant need?
- The right planting distance
- increase riding grass
- sowing
- Riding grass in a pot
- pour riding grass
- Fertilize riding grass properly
- Cut riding grass correctly
- How do I plant correctly?
- hardy
- fungus
- sorts
During the summer, Reedgrass develops feathery flower spikes that protrude from dense clumps of leaves. They provide color accents in the different seasons. The site conditions differ depending on the species. In terms of care, all Calamagrostis species are the same.
The country reed grass grows wild in our meadows
Table of Contents
Show all- origin
- growth
- leaves
- blossom
- fruit
- use
- Which location is suitable?
- What soil does the plant need?
- The right planting distance
- increase riding grass
- sowing
- Riding grass in a pot
- pour riding grass
- Fertilize riding grass properly
- Cut riding grass correctly
- How do I plant correctly?
- hardy
- fungus
- sorts
- around 100 species come from South America
- 14 occur in Europe
- of which about nine species in Central Europe
- natural wild gardens
- rose hedges
- prairie gardens
- architect gardens
- Marsh Reed Grass (Calamagrostis canescens): wet soil, boggy
- Reed Reed (Calamagrostis epigejos): fresh conditions
- Reed grass (Calamagrostis varia): dry locations, lean
- Waldenbuch: Bushy growth, forms dense clumps. Leaves streaked with white. Yellow-brown panicles between June and August. 50 to 150 cm high.
- overdam: Stiffly upright growing. Yellow spikes from June to August. Between 50 and 150 cm high.
- Karl Forster: Structured clumps. Yellowish-red flowers from June to August, in spike to panicle form. 150 to 180 cm high.
- avalanches: Bushy, upright habit. Leaves striped white with violet hues. Light brown panicles from June to August. Reaches heights of growth between 50 and 130 centimetres.
origin
Riding grasses represent a genus within the sweet grasses. A total of around 230 species belong to the genus, which bears the scientific name Calamagrostis. An important native species is the common reed grass (Calamagrostis epigejos), which grows on forest fells. There are numerous species within the genus that are used as ornamental plants. Widespread is the bog reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora), which arose from a cross between Calamagrostis epigejos and Calamagrostis arundinacea.
Here are the species:
growth
Equestrian grasses grow as perennial plants that form dense to loose clumps. The sweet grasses develop subterranean runners that do not creep far through the substrate. The above-ground culms have several nodes. The species form unbranched stems or culms, branching at the lowest nodes.
Most riding grasses develop sterile side shoots within the lower leaf sheaths that do not develop flower panicles. They are used for rejuvenation and ensure that the grass forms dense clumps. In some species, these side shoots break through the leaf sheaths, resulting in a somewhat loose growth habit. Species for sunny locations usually develop a tightly upright habit. Many grasses that are suitable for partial shade grow in a bow shape.
leaves
Calamagrostis species develop leaf sheaths that are open to the leaf base. This feature is clearly visible in the sections between two nodes. The leaf sheaths enclose the stem and overlap on the opposite side. They go directly into the leaf blade, which appears flat and extended. Fine ribs can be seen on their surface. Riding grasses develop dark to fresh green leaves. Many varieties convince with white striped leaf blades.
blossom
In summer, riding grasses bear richly branched inflorescences, the individual flowers of which are in a dense panicle. Long white hairs that protrude from the spikelets are typical of these sweet grasses. The inflorescences are white, yellow or brown in color with red or violet nuances.
fruit
After flowering, the flowers fall off as a whole. The inflorescence bears numerous small seeds that give the panicles a brownish tinge. They remain until winter, so that riding grasses set accents in the garden even during the dreary season. At the same time, the seeds provide an important food source for birds.
use
Equestrian grasses are popular ornamental plants in various garden designs. They add structure to beds and borders without becoming dominant. Their decorative spikes are particularly effective in group plantings. Riding grasses can be planted solitarily.
They harmonize with delphiniums, autumn asters or sunflowers and add variety to plantings with other grasses. The sweet grasses can be planted as rose companions. When planted in rows, Calamagrostis species develop a natural privacy screen. In the second half of the year, cut flower and fruit clusters provide perfect material for bouquets.
This is where riding grasses come into their own:
Which location is suitable?
The various Calamagrostis species require different site conditions. The majority of the species prefers sunny locations, with some representatives of the genus growing in semi-shady conditions. Few varieties can be planted in light shade, as most grasses develop long stalks in search of light. These become unstable with age as the flower spikes pull the stalk downwards.
What soil does the plant need?
Equestrian grasses thrive in well-drained and loose substrates with cool conditions. They like slightly humus-rich soil with a pH in the neutral range. Many varieties tolerate a light lime content.
Types for different soils:
The right planting distance
Riding grasses are planted in spring so that they can grow in by winter. While the planting hole is being dug, you can place the root ball in a bucket of water. The hole should be twice the size of the plant ball. Individual grasses are placed at a distance of 80 centimeters from each other. You can cover the floor with stones so that water can run off better. Put in the ornamental grass and fill in the gaps with excavation. Some compost provides the plants with ideal growing conditions.
increase riding grass
Sterile varieties can be propagated by division in spring. Pierce the root ball with a spade and lift the subplant out of the ground. It should have some stalks so that the plant grows faster in the new location. After planting, watering is important. Water deeply to fill gaps in the soil and allow roots to make contact with the substrate. In the following years, the young plants can be divided again when they have developed large clumps.
sowing
The different varieties of Calamagrostis x acutiflora are sterile and cannot be propagated from seeds. Wild species develop numerous seeds after flowering. Cut off the panicles and place them on a cloth to catch the falling seeds. Equestrian grasses are cold germs. Sprinkle the seeds in a freezer bag filled with sand and moisten the substrate. For the next five to six weeks, the bag is stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.
The grains are then scattered on a peat-sand mixture and thinly covered with substrate. The growing pots (€16.68) are placed in a place with temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius, whereby the substrate must be constantly moist. Seedlings appear after three to four weeks.
Riding grass in a pot
Equestrian grasses are suitable for planting in containers. The pot should have a minimum volume of 20 liters. Use buckets that have two to three drainage holes. Place shards of pottery or pebbles at the bottom of the pot and plant the reed grass in a mixture of sand, compost and garden soil.
Choose a semi-shady place, because the blazing sun will dry out the substrate faster. Place the tub on a plant trolley. The fast-growing grass gains weight during the vegetation phase and can be moved more easily with the help of the underlay. At the same time, it serves as insulation against ground frost in winter.
pour riding grass
All riding grasses prove to be frugal when it comes to water requirements. Adult specimens do not need additional watering. Young plants and newly divided specimens require more water and should be watered regularly. Water potted plants regularly to keep the root ball from drying out.
Fertilize riding grass properly
It is enough to provide the plants with compost at the beginning of the growing season. Riding grasses do not need any other nutrients. Plants in tubs are occasionally supplied with nutrients in the form of a liquid fertilizer. When repotting, you can enrich the fresh substrate with some compost, so that no further fertilization is required in the same year.
Cut riding grass correctly
Riding grass stays tall over the winter. They provide a decorative aspect. Their hollow stems provide insects with a sheltered place to hibernate. Shortly before fresh sprouting in spring, the dead stalks are cut off at ground level. Tie the clumps together in bunches that you can grasp and separate with one snip. Consider sturdy gardening gloves as the edges of the leaves are sharp. Dispose of the clippings in the compost. Alternatively, it can be chopped up and used as bedding.
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How do I plant correctly?
During spring, clumps of riding grass can be transplanted. The grasses should no longer be transplanted in autumn, as they do not have time to take root. With this measure, it is worth dividing the rootstock and rejuvenating the stock in this way. Freshly transplanted plants should be sufficiently fertilized and watered. In the first year you can repeat the fertilization two to three times.
hardy
Riding grasses prove to be unrestrictedly frost hardy and can easily spend the winter in the bed. To protect the eyrie, you can tie the stalks together in bunches in autumn. This prevents too much water from accumulating inside the eyrie. In particularly severe winter months, you can spread a thick layer of foliage over the substrate. Potted plants should be provided with winter protection so that the substrate does not freeze.
fungus
If the summer was too humid and warm, riding grasses are occasionally attacked by leaf rust. A disease can be recognized by orange to brown spots and pustules on the underside of the leaf. If the fungus has spread widely, it covers the entire leaf. The tissue can no longer be supplied and dies.
Cut off affected leaves and dispose of them with household waste. Garden tools should then be disinfected with alcohol so that the spores do not spread again during the next cutting measures. As a preventative measure, make sure that the clumps are not watered from above. In poorly ventilated crops, fungal spores can spread better.
tips
Place large decorative balls between the clumps to achieve a particularly harmonious loosening up. This arrangement is perfect for landscaping front gardens. You can create a balanced oasis with little resources.