The climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) belongs to the hydrangea family (Hydrangeaceae) and is closely related to the garden hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). Like these, climbing hydrangeas form large, umbrella-shaped inflorescences, but thanks to their adhesive roots they grow independently up to 15 meters high. The ornamental plant, which is often planted in gardens, can be used in many ways and is considered to be extremely easy to care for.

The climbing hydrangea should be equipped with a climbing aid

Table of Contents

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  1. origin and distribution
  2. use
  3. appearance and growth
  4. leaves
  5. flowering and flowering time
  6. fruit
  7. Is climbing hydrangea poisonous?
  8. Which location is suitable?
  9. floor
  10. Plant climbing hydrangea correctly
  11. What is the best planting time?
  12. The right planting distance
  13. Water climbing hydrangea
  14. Fertilize climbing hydrangea properly
  15. Pruning climbing hydrangea correctly
  16. Multiply climbing hydrangea
  17. hibernate
  18. How do I plant correctly?
  19. pot culture
  20. pests
  21. Diseases
  22. Climbing hydrangea does not bloom, what to do?
  23. species and varieties

    24. origin and distribution

    Like many hydrangea plants, the climbing hydrangea comes from East Asia. In Korea, Japan and Taiwan, the species is widespread both in gardens and in the vast forests. In Europe and America, the vigorous climbing plant is used as an ornamental plant, but is now also found in the wild due to its robustness.

    use

    As a classic climbing plant, Hydrangea petiolaris climbs house walls, fences, walls, old and dead trees, pergolas and other climbing structures. For this purpose, the plant uses its adhesive roots, with the help of which it climbs up independently and anchors itself to the ground. Climbing aids such as cords, hooks, etc. only make sense for freshly planted young plants so that they can find the right path. If the plant cannot find a place to climb, it also grows - depending on the variety - as a ground cover or a broad, hemispherical shrub up to two meters high.

    appearance and growth

    On the side averted from the light, the shoots of the climbing hydrangea form strong adhesive roots, which lignify over time and develop into thick branches. Older plants typically have a very gnarled habit, and the reddish-brown bark on the thick wood flakes off. Climbing hydrangeas reach an average height of between six and seven meters on walls, walls or trellises, but can also be up to 15 meters high in exceptional cases. In young plants, growth is comparatively slow at around 15 to 20 centimeters per year, but increases with age to annual growth of up to 40 centimeters - provided the site conditions are optimal.

    leaves

    The dense foliage of the climbing hydrangea consists of numerous glossy green, rounded to ovate leaves that are up to ten centimeters long. These are arranged opposite one another on long stalks and turn a wonderful yellow in most varieties in autumn. However, some of the newer varieties no longer develop autumn colors, but remain green on the shoots at least in mild winters until the next spring.

    flowering and flowering time

    The large, umbrella-shaped flowers of climbing hydrangeas, which appear between May and July, are always creamy white. They give off a light, sweet scent that makes the plant irresistible to bees, bumblebees and butterflies. Because of their abundance of nectar, climbing hydrangeas are valuable insect food plants.

    Incidentally, the flat, up to 25 centimeters wide umbrella panicles mostly consist of white, sterile show flowers. Only the inner petals - recognizable by the missing petals - are fertile.

    If you want to enjoy the lush flowering of these plants, you need patience: climbing hydrangeas flower five to eight years after planting at the earliest.

    fruit

    The wild forms of the climbing hydrangea form small, inconspicuous capsule fruits by autumn. However, the development of fruit containing seeds is not to be expected in cultivated forms.

    Is climbing hydrangea poisonous?

    Like all hydrangeas, the climbing hydrangea is considered slightly poisonous. All parts of the plant contain toxins such as glycosides (hydrocyanic acid), saponins, as well as hydrangenol and hydrangin. When ingested in large quantities, these cause slight symptoms of poisoning, such as dizziness and nausea. However, leaves, flowers and other parts of the plant taste extremely bitter, so children will not be tempted to taste more. Rub a fresh leaf between your fingers and you will notice the slight smell of bitter almonds.

    Furthermore, the ingredients of the climbing hydrangea can trigger a contact allergy in people who are sensitive to it, but this can be avoided by using gloves and other protective clothing (e.g. when pruning the plant).

    Pets, on the other hand, are more problematic, because climbing hydrangeas are poisonous for cats, dogs and Co. and can cause severe symptoms of poisoning in them.

    Which location is suitable?

    Climbing hydrangeas feel most comfortable in bright, but not full sun and warm locations. Choose a semi-shady, lightly shady or sunny place, which, however, must not be directly shady - if it is too dark for the plant, it will not produce any flowers. A rather damp and cool location in the garden is also optimal.

    floor

    Ideally, the potting soil is humic, fresh, permeable and slightly acidic. Climbing hydrangeas do not tolerate calcareous soil and are also very sensitive to heavy and compacted soil.

    Plant climbing hydrangea correctly

    Plant the climbing hydrangea in a well-drained planting hole that is about twice as wide and deep as the plant's root ball. Loosen the side walls and the bottom of the hole with a digging fork to make it easier for the roots to grow. Mix the excavation with mature compost, horn shavings (€32.93) and rhododendron soil if necessary. Attach the shoots of the young plant to a climbing aid to point it in the right direction. Especially with house walls, make sure to use a trellis and attach it about ten centimeters in front of the wall. The strong adhesive roots of the climbing hydrangea have the habit of digging into the plaster and finding support there. Of course, a climbing aid is only necessary if the plant is to be trained to climb. Otherwise, it simply grows as a ground cover or broad bush.

    Then cover the soil with a mulching material such as leaves, bark mulch, etc. to keep the moisture in the soil. At best, place the root ball in a bucket of lukewarm water before inserting it so that the plant can soak up plenty of moisture.
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    What is the best planting time?

    The best time to plant a climbing hydrangea is early spring between March and April. However, the plants are mostly available as container goods, which can basically be planted all year round. The only requirement is frost-free, mild weather. Avoid planting on hot, sunny days, otherwise the plants will quickly suffer from water shortages and drought stress.

    The right planting distance

    Climbing hydrangeas can grow up to five meters wide and need a lot of space. Therefore, plant them individually and also avoid underplanting - the resulting root pressure does not suit the plants. However, it is possible to socialize with other climbing plants such as clematis (Clematis).

    Water climbing hydrangea

    Basically, the additional watering of planted climbing hydrangeas is not necessary, since the plants are self-sufficient through their widely branched root system. Only freshly planted specimens should be watered for a few weeks, as the roots, which are not yet firmly anchored in the ground, cannot absorb enough moisture themselves. Even during dry and hot mid-summer phases, it has to be watered occasionally if necessary - for example because the plant lets its leaves droop.

    Fertilize climbing hydrangea properly

    Climbing hydrangeas have a fairly high nutrient requirement and should therefore be supplied with organic fertilizer in the spring. Compost, lawn clippings or bark mulch are particularly suitable for this.

    If older plants don't really want to bloom, start-up fertilization with commercially available hydrangea or rhododendron fertilizer in the spring helps.

    Pruning climbing hydrangea correctly

    Provided they have enough space to spread out, climbing hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. However, the plants are quite tolerant of pruning and can easily be pruned back into perennial wood. Young climbing hydrangeas will branch more and then grow more densely if they are shortened by a third immediately after planting.

    If possible, pruning measures should be carried out before sprouting on a frost-free and mild day in February or March.

    Multiply climbing hydrangea

    Since usually no fruit containing seeds are formed, only vegetative propagation via cuttings, offshoots or sticks is possible.

    cuttings

    In June, take head cuttings about four to six inches long, for which you select shoots without flowers. Remove the lower leaves and dip the beveled cutting edge in a rooting powder. Then plant the cuttings in small pots with growing substrate or directly in the desired location and keep them slightly moist. Rooting is successful when the first new shoots form.

    offshoot

    It is easier to propagate via offshoots, which, in contrast to cuttings, are not immediately separated from the mother plant. In May or June, select young shoots that grow close to the ground, which you pull down, remove the leaves and slightly scratch in one place. Plant them in the ground, only slightly covering the shoots with soil. However, the branch must be weighed down with a stone or anchored with a wire so that it does not slip out of the planting site. Keep the cutting slightly moist and separate it from the mother plant the following spring as soon as it develops shoots of its own.

    sticks

    Cuttings are cut in winter and stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator or other cool place, wrapped in a damp cloth, until planting in spring. Stick the approximately 15 to 20 centimeter long sticks directly to the targeted location and keep the soil slightly moist there.

    hibernate

    Climbing hydrangeas are sufficiently hardy and only need a little winter protection in the first few years, for example by mulching with leaves or laying out spruce and fir branches.

    How do I plant correctly?

    In principle, climbing hydrangeas can be transplanted as long as they have not been in their location for more than five to six years. On the other hand, moving older, climbing specimens is almost impossible simply because of the strong stem formation. Only shrubby plants can change their location later.

    It is only important that you do not transplant the plants unprepared. In the autumn before the planned measure - which is best done in spring - dig a shallow trench around the main shoot, which you fill with compost. This forces the plant to form compact roots close to the trunk, making it easier for it to grow in the new location later on.
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    pot culture

    If the planter is large enough, the climbing hydrangea can also be cultivated in a bucket. Of course, the plant won’t grow that big in such a way, but it can still reach considerable proportions. Therefore, it is rather unsuitable for keeping on the balcony, especially if it is a rented apartment. Many landlords prohibit the planting of climbing or climbing plants on the balcony, especially if they are self-climbing species. However, the climbing hydrangea is very suitable as a privacy screen on a terrace - for example planted in a raised bed box or similar and provided with a trellis.

    pests

    Pests are rarely found on climbing hydrangeas. If so, then it is mostly sucking insects such as aphids. You often notice an infestation through short stature, stunted leaves, falling buds or a conspicuously large presence of ants around the infested plant. Prevent pest infestation through careful care, a suitable location and the colonization of beneficial insects in the garden. Install an insect hotel (€11.33) in a favorable spot and ensure that birds, for example, find enough places to retreat and food.

    Diseases

    Climbing hydrangeas are robust plants that are hardly affected by diseases. If the plant seems ill, errors in care or an unsuitable location are usually the cause. Chlorosis, in which the leaves turn yellow, is common. Reasons are either a lack of nutrients caused by incorrect or insufficient fertilization or an incorrect pH value. If this is more than 7, you should supply the climbing hydrangea with acidic rhododendron soil.

    Powdery mildew also occurs occasionally, with powdery mildew predominating in hot and dry weather and downy mildew in damp, cool summers. Spraying with field horsetail or garlic decoction helps against both fungal diseases, and severely affected leaves and shoots should also be removed.

    Climbing hydrangea does not bloom, what to do?

    If the climbing hydrangea does not want to bloom, there can be various reasons behind it:

    • Nutrient deficiency: Provide the plant with compost or other organic fertilizers in spring.
    • Lack of light: Although the climbing hydrangea is classified as shade-tolerant, it needs sufficient light for lush flowering.
    • Pruning at the wrong time: Never cut climbing hydrangeas in autumn, as you will then also remove the buds of the following year.
    • Frost: Flower buds are established in the previous year and can freeze to death in severe winters.

    tips

    Wilting leaves are not only caused by a possible lack of water, but can also be due to waterlogging (and thus rotting roots) or a location that is too sunny.

    species and varieties

    These beautiful varieties of climbing hydrangea are suitable for home and hobby gardens:

    • 'Semiola': evergreen, copper-red shoots in spring, ideal as ground cover
    • 'Silver Lining': evergreen, variegated foliage, suitable for containers
    • 'Miranda': variegated foliage, particularly large flowers
    • 'Cordifolia': dwarf form, only grows up to three meters high and 40 centimeters wide

    The false or split hydrangea (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) is very similar to the climbing hydrangea both in appearance and in the cultivation and location requirements. The biggest difference between the closely related species is the growth vigour: split hydrangeas, averaging two to six meters high and up to four meters wide, are smaller than the more vigorous climbing hydrangeas.

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Vegetable garden