Tillandsia (bot. Tillandsia) - sometimes also referred to as bromeliads - are so-called aerial plants that can be cultivated without a pot or substrate. Contrary to popular belief, the fascinating, often bizarrely growing and magnificently flowering plants from the large family of bromeliads (Bromeliaceae) do not live on air and love: in order for their cultivation to be successful, the location and care conditions must be precisely tailored to their conditions.
Tillandsias are exotic-looking ornamental plants
Table of Contents
Show all- species
- Tillandsia cyanea: "Blue Tillandsia", rosette form for soil culture with up to 45 centimeters long leaves, blue-violet flowers and pink bracts
- Tillandsia lindenii: similar to Tillandsia cyanea, but with a stem up to 30 centimeters high and dark blue flowers
- Tillandsia usneoides: also known as "tree beard" or "Spanish moss", forms long thread-like, gray shoots with scaly leaves
- Tillandsia aeranthos: silvery leaves and large, red to purple flowers
- Tillandsia fuchsii: long, red bracts on tubular flowers
- Tillandsia flabellata: up to 25 centimeters high, red tubular flowers between February and March
- Tillandsia albertiana: small, stem-forming, pretty bright red flowers
- Tillandsia morreniana: also Catopsis morreniana, very small, delicate rainforest bromeliad, rare
- Tillandsia bulbosa: bulbous stem with long, narrow leaves
- Tillandsia floribunda: very floriferous and vigorous with violet flowers, ideal for beginners
- Tillandsia punctulata: distinctive rosette shape with pretty, white dotted flowers
origin and distribution
Tillandsia (Tillandsia), with around 500 different members, is a very species-rich genus in the bromeliad family (Bromeliaceae), which in turn belongs to the pineapple family. The mostly epiphytic plants are native to the entire South American continent. They have adapted to the most diverse habitats of the tropics and subtropics and are at home both in the rainforest and in the high steppes (even at altitudes over 4,000 meters!) or even in the driest region on earth, the Atacama Desert on the Chilean coast Find.
use
Tillandsias are becoming increasingly popular as ornamental plants for the home or in terrariums. Here they are either kept alone, with other plants and/or together with animals. The advantage of a terrarium is that the living conditions here can be artificially perfectly adapted to the needs of the residents. Light, humidity and the like are otherwise difficult to regulate within an apartment. It is simply too dry for many tillandsia species in winter, as the warm air from the heating dries out the surrounding area. Regular - and of course necessary! - Ventilation, on the other hand, brings cold, which has killed many a tillandsie within a short time.
However, if you want to cultivate the unusual plants in your home, you should definitely use breeding plants and check their origin carefully: Due to the increasing demand in recent years, countless specimens have been taken from the wild despite legal bans in the countries of origin, so that many stocks are now endangered or have even disappeared.
growth and size
Most tillandsia species grow epiphytically, i.e. sitting on trees and other plants (e.g. cacti) as well as inanimate surfaces such as rocks. They only form adhesive roots, but no fine roots. For this reason, the absorption of water and nutrients takes place exclusively through precipitation and from the air, at least in the case of the so-called gray or white tillandsia. These species have silvery suction scales on their leaves that they use to filter moisture and food from the air. Other species, on the other hand, reshape their leaves in such a way that they form collecting funnels and collect inflowing water. A few tillandsia - the so-called green tillandsia - root in the ground.
There are also large differences between the species in terms of size and growth forms. The range extends from tiny tillandsias that grow like lichens to large specimens with impressive leaf rosettes.
Flower, colors and flowering time
Depending on the species, tillandsia bloom between February and October, although it can take a few years before the first bloom. The plants only flower when they have reached a certain age and size. Incidentally, the eye-catching, long-lasting blaze of color is just the bracts. The actual, rather inconspicuous flower forms directly on these. Shapes and colors of the bracts vary greatly, mostly intense, bright colors such as red, violet, pink to magenta or orange prevail. The shape, on the other hand, is reminiscent of a torch or flame in many cases, with the colored bracts protruding far beyond the actual leaves.
Incidentally, tillandsia like Sempervivum (houseleeks) bloom only once in their lives, after which the plant dies. Before that, however, they form Kindel, through which the different species multiply and over time develop real cushions. However, this does not apply to all tillandsia: some hardly ever form offshoots and instead reproduce almost exclusively via seeds.
leaves
The narrow leaves of the Tillandsia form a rosette in many species, they are rarely branched and/or arranged in a spiral. The majority of these are herbaceous plants with mostly compressed stems. The few species without a compressed shoot axis, on the other hand, develop longer stems with alternately arranged leaves.
fruit
When fertilization has taken place, tillandsias form capsule fruits, which are provided with "parachutes" like dandelions for further distribution. However, the plants in living room or terrarium culture only rarely form seeds, since the pollinating insects are missing.
Poisonous
Tillandsias are invariably considered non-toxic, which applies to both humans and animals. For this reason, they are often used in terrariums for bearded dragons and other exotic pets. Caution is still required with some species, because the leaves can be pointed and sharp, so that injuries cannot be ruled out if handled carelessly.
The plants are not edible.
location
Basically, tillandsias need a location that is as bright as possible, but in many cases not directly in full sun. Plants are often best kept next to a window. However, the optimal place depends largely on the needs of the individual species.
Gray tillandsias are as bright and sunny as possible. Accustomed to cooler nighttime temperatures in their natural environment, some species are also able to spend the summer months outdoors. A partially shaded and airy place is ideal for this, for example in the canopy of the house tree, on a trellis or on a wall. Green tillandsia, on the other hand, prefer bright, warm and very humid locations, although they do not have to be right next to a window. But be careful: with these species, the temperature should never fall below 15 °C, whereas gray tillandsias are kept at 10 to a maximum of 15 °C in winter.
substrate and presentation
Epiphytic Tillandsias are not cultivated in a substrate. Instead, attach them to an object that the plants will root to over time. These can be pieces of wood or bark, (low lime!) natural or artificial stones, shells or just a simple wire.
Since the plants need some time for rooting, they are first glued or tied. For this you can use, for example, commercially available silicone glue from the hardware store or simple superglue. Make sure that the glue used is free of acetone. Only the hot glue gun should be left in the cupboard in this case, because the heat generated will damage the plant. Instead of gluing, tillandsias can also be tied together with thin strips of normal, elastic nylon tights. Use skin-colored stockings for this, as these are almost invisible. Once the plant or plant arrangement is firmly rooted, the pantyhose can be removed.
Earth-rooted tillandsia, on the other hand, is best planted in orchid soil or in a self-made mixture of bark, peat moss and coarse sand.
pour
Since epiphytic tillandsias mainly absorb water through the leaves, you do not need to water these specimens - which are cultivated without substrate anyway. Instead, spray the plants several times a week with lime-poor, i. H. soft water. If possible, use rainwater or very well stale or boiled and cooled tap water. Mineral water with little carbonic acid and a low lime content is also suitable. Alternatively, the plants can be immersed in a bath with lime-free water once a week during the summer months, but you have to be careful: if the leaves of the gray tillandsia come into contact with water, they turn green.
Since green tillandsias need high humidity, you should spray these species daily. If, on the other hand, it is a soil culture - no matter what kind - the substrate must not dry out under any circumstances. Pour the plant with room-warm and low-lime water as soon as the soil has dried noticeably.
Caution is advised with desert tillandsia such as Tillandsia capitata. These usually do not need that much water, but are content with about one or two doses per month. However, no general statements can be made here, since plants, like all living things, are very individual. If you observe your plants closely, you will be able to estimate the actual water requirement more easily.
Fertilize
In epiphytic species, nutrients are also absorbed through the leaves. Use a special bromeliad fertilizer that you add to the spray or irrigation water and simply spray on the plant. The whole plant should always be misted so that all parts of the plant are evenly supplied. Since tillandsia only have a low nutrient requirement, fertilization every two weeks between April and September and even every four to six weeks between October and March is sufficient.
To cut
Tillandsia must (and should not!) be pruned. Dead or faded plant parts can be easily plucked off after a while.
multiply
Propagation is very easy via offshoots, which the plant itself forms and are called "Kindel". If possible, do not cut these off the mother plant either, but separate them by carefully plucking or breaking them. Then plant or attach them to a new substrate or put them in a sandy substrate. After the children have formed, the mother plant usually dies.
Only the species Tillandsia usneoides does not form any kindles. To multiply them, cut off healthy shoots about 10 to 15 centimeters long with a sharp and clean knife. Then tie them to cork or wood and spray them with water every day.
Propagation by seeds, on the other hand, is much more difficult, especially since at least two specimens of the same species must flower at the same time for successful pollination. Since tillandsias rarely flower, you would probably have to wait many years for seeds you collect yourself. Especially since the subsequent fruit ripening and germination each take several months.
hibernate
If you keep the tillandsia indoors all year round, you basically don't have to take any special care measures during the winter months. Only the water requirement can increase, since the heating air greatly reduces the humidity. Furthermore, the fertilizer intervals are extended to four to six weeks.
Tillandsia that have been oversummer on the balcony should be put away by September at the latest - earlier in cooler weather - and overwintered in a bright and well-ventilated place. However, temperatures should not fall below 15 °C. In this case there is no fertilization, only regular spraying makes sense.
Diseases
Although many tillandsia species need high humidity, you should not overdo it: wetness inevitably leads to rot and then the plant can no longer be saved.
pests
Infestation with aphids rarely occurs, although the animals can be easily removed by washing off the leaves.
Tillandsias not blooming, what to do?
If your tillandsia isn't blooming, it's probably just not "ready to bloom" yet. It can sometimes take many years for these interesting plants to develop their often bizarre flowers. In forums it is sometimes advised to stimulate the plants to flower with the help of an apple. Ripe apples give off ethylene, which is a ripening gas. However, this method only works if the Tillandsia in question is ready for it.
tips
Tillandsias held in glass balls look particularly pretty. This culture form also offers the unbeatable advantage that optimal growth conditions can be created in it.
species
The following tillandsia species are particularly popular:
In addition to the types listed here, there are numerous others in the specialist trade, some of which are only recommended for specialists. Some types of bromeliads require very special living conditions, which can only be achieved with a lot of effort and detailed knowledge of these plants. If you stumble across the botanical name "Catopsis" when looking for suitable tillandsia, then these are often species with special needs. Like tillandsias, catopsis are bromeliads, but have significantly smaller flowers and other differences (e.g. in the structure of the sepals). However, the species are closely related and sometimes the two terms are used synonymously in plant shops.
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