Hydrangeas are the epitome of the classic hearty flower garden. With their lush clusters of flowers in white, pink or fresh blue, they set inimitable accents that some find very nostalgic. You can learn interesting facts about their biology and useful cultivation tips in this article.

Hydrangeas come in many different colors

Table of Contents

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  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. size
  4. leaves
  5. blossoms
  6. When is flowering time?
  7. Which location is suitable?
  8. the shade
  9. watering hydrangea
  10. Fertilize hydrangea properly
  11. houseplant
  12. frost
  13. cut
  14. withered
  15. mildew
  16. dried up
  17. divide
  18. tip
  19. species and varieties

    20. origin

    With hydrangeas, botanically hydrangea, most people in this country probably associate the farmer's hydrangea. However, the genus includes an impressive number of around 70 to 80 different species, which also have a fairly comprehensive range of appearances and areas of origin.

    Hydrangeas are found in the Far East as well as in North and South America. Most species come from temperate to warm habitats in East Asia from Myanmar to Japan, where they sometimes live at altitudes of up to 3400 meters. As a rule, these are understory plants - so they have adapted to semi-shady light conditions and like that in this country too.

    In terms of climate, hydrangeas can be kept very well as a container plant here in Central Europe. They usually need a lot of water - this characteristic is also anchored in their botanical name, which translates to "water jug".

    Origin at a glance:

    • A total of around 80 different hydrangea species come mainly from East Asia, but also from North and South America
    • Colonize temperate to warm, partly high-altitude habitats
    • Mostly undergrowth plants
    • Can be cultivated well in the bucket in this country

    growth

    Like most hydrangea species, the garden hydrangea, which is familiar to our eyes, grows as a woody subshrub with a spreading, bushy crown. It forms numerous basic shoots at the base, which branch out far upwards. The bark is light gray to brownish and covered with a felt-like covering. Depending on the species, the hairiness varies in intensity.

    However, some other hydrangea species also grow as climbing plants, as trees or even as lianas. In the local garden culture, the first variant in the form of the climbing hydrangea is particularly relevant. If they are offered a climbing aid, they can climb many meters with their adhesive roots. If left to its own devices, its habit will remain a bushy, spherical shape.

    Growth characteristics in keywords:

    • Garden or farmer's hydrangeas show semi-shrub growth with a bushy appearance
    • Many basic shoots, wide branching
    • Felty shoot hairs
    • Climbing hydrangea can reach great heights with climbing aids

    size

    The bushy shrub types of hydrangeas usually reach a garden-friendly handy height of about one to two meters. They also stretch about as much in width.

    It's different with climbing hydrangeas: If you are provided with a wall with climbing aids, they can climb up to 15 meters in the air.
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    leaves

    The leaves of hydrangeas are very large, which explains, among other things, their high water consumption. Their shape is usually ovate and tapering with a broad leaf blade and often a serrated edge. The oakleaf hydrangea shows, as its name suggests, an oak to maple-like lobed leaf contour and also an extremely magnificent, reddish autumn colour. The leaves are opposite in most species.

    Overall, both evergreen and deciduous species can be found within the genus.

    Sheet properties in brief:

    • Mostly ovate, pointed, wide leaf shape
    • Edges often sawn
    • Leaves of the oakleaf hydrangea are lobed
    • Both evergreen and deciduous species

    blossoms

    With their hemispherical, fluffy shape, the lush flower clusters of the hydrangea are somewhat reminiscent of bathing caps. It is mainly because of them that hydrangea species have become so popular for garden culture and have been for a long time.

    In their wild form, the umbellate, thyrse-like, terminal inflorescences usually consist of a center with many, small, fertile flowers and a border of sterile show flowers, which serve to attract pollinating insects. The fertile flowers to be pollinated are rather inconspicuous. Therefore, in many cultivated forms, they are also transformed into large, decorative display flowers - the price for this cosmetic operation is complete infertility of the entire plant.

    A relatively well-known curiosity about the flowers of some hydrangea species - such as the farmer's hydrangea or the plate hydrangea - is their coloring depending on the pH value in the soil. Usually, the sepals of the flowers are pale pink to pink or purple in color. The lower the pH value of the planting ground, the more blue the color of the flower. This is because the plant can absorb more aluminum ions from an acidic soil environment.

    If you have a particular fondness for the blue flowers, you can specifically promote them by adding alum to the irrigation water. Add 3 g of alum to one liter of water - preferably low-calcium water from a rain barrel.

    Flower properties at a glance:

    • High ornamental value of the large, hemispherical, umbellate clusters of flowers
    • In the wild form consisting of a center with many fertile but inconspicuous flowers and external, decorative but sterile show flowers
    • In many garden forms, re-breeding to inflorescences consisting purely of show flowers - plants are then completely sterile
    • Some species change color depending on the pH value in the soil: alkaline = pink, acidic = blue
    • Blue color minable with alum

    When is flowering time?

    Most hydrangeas only begin to unfold their magnificent flowers in midsummer, usually in July. In garden centers you can sometimes get pre-formed specimens.

    Which location is suitable?

    Since hydrangeas usually grow as understory plants in their original habitat, most species like it in semi-shade, even here. However, some species can also stand in the sun. As far as the soil is concerned, you should always offer a humus-rich, loose and freshly moist soil to a hydrangea. Apart from the possible color induction of the flowers of some species, hydrangeas also prefer a slightly acidic soil environment with a pH value of around 5 to 6. They should also be protected from strong winds.

    To remember:

    • Partial shade for most species, some also sunny
    • Soil rich in nutrients, loose and freshly moist
    • pH value rather in the slightly acidic range

    the shade

    In fact, hydrangeas mostly tolerate complete shade, depending a bit on the species. Above all, the classic farmer's hydrangea, snowball hydrangea or climbing hydrangea also thrive in places with very little sun and are not stingy with the development of flowers. In this way, you can add beautiful splashes of color to dark corners of the garden. You generally can't go wrong with a location under trees. However, the combination with deep roots is more advantageous, so that the flowering shrubs do not get in the way of the planting ground.

    The particularly shade-tolerant species:

    • peasant hydrangeas
    • snowball hydrangeas
    • climbing hydrangeas

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    watering hydrangea

    Hydrangea, the botanical name of the hydrangea, means something like "water jug" in German - this naming alludes to the constant thirst of the plant. Casting is therefore a central topic for her. When it is warm and dry in summer, it immediately indicates an acute need for water with drooping leaves and literally calls you to the watering can. Basically, the planting ground of hydrangeas should always remain well moist.

    It is best to use soft, low-lime water for watering, ideally from a rain barrel.

    Casting rules at a glance:

    • Hydrangeas need a lot of water
    • Careful, even watering is essential
    • Lime-free water, preferably rainwater

    Fertilize hydrangea properly

    Hydrangeas are not only thirsty, but also hungry - they are without a doubt one of the heavy feeders. Apart from the fact that you should pay attention to nutrient-rich, humus-rich soil when planting, additional fertilizer is very useful for good growth. You can give the plant organic fertilizer or special liquid hydrangea or rhododendron fertilizer about every one to two weeks during the main vegetation phase, but only from spring to midsummer.

    Fertilizer recommendation in brief:

    • Regular fertilizing is recommended due to the high nutrient requirements of hydrangeas
    • From spring to July, fertilize every 1-2 weeks, for example with a special hydrangea or rhododendron fertilizer

    houseplant

    Hydrangeas can also be kept very well in the room - they are even extremely grateful plants for indoor culture, because they have no really different demands on the room climate than humans. They feel very comfortable with pleasant living temperatures of around 20°C - dry heating air is not particularly good for them, but ultimately not for us either. Due to their generally strong thirst, you should water a hydrangea in the room all the more carefully. The soil must always remain moist, but avoid waterlogging and leave no water in the saucer.
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    frost

    Many hydrangea species are conditionally frost hardy and can be overwintered outside. Planting outdoors is therefore also possible, depending on the variety. Nevertheless, the plants react quite clearly to the winter cold by freezing down relatively hard. However, this is usually not a drama, because only the outer parts of the plant are affected. In this way, the plant will sprout normally again in the spring.

    However, a certain degree of protection against the cold is not wrong. Before the first frosts, surround the plant with fir branches or brushwood. You should also cover the plant with garden fleece, especially if there is another late frost in spring. This prevents buds that have already formed from freezing to death.

    Hydrangeas in pots should be wrapped in jute together with the pot and protected from the wind. To be on the safe side, put the bucket in a frost-free cold house.

    Measures against frost damage:

    • Hydrangeas are usually frost hardy, but protection is still advisable
    • To prevent cold damage, cover with fir branches and/or garden fleece
    • Wrap pot hydrangeas well with jute or overwinter in a frost-free, cool place

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    cut

    The pruning of hydrangeas depends on the species. Species that form early buds, such as the peasant hydrangea or plate hydrangea, should be freed from the frozen branches and foliage at the end of winter or early spring if you have allowed them to hibernate outdoors. Depending on the age, a thinning is sometimes necessary.

    Species that only form buds in the course of spring, such as the ball or panicle hydrangea, only last year's shoots are pruned, so that two eyes always remain.

    Climbing hydrangeas should be pruned every spring by removing at least the side shoots that have become too long. A stronger pruning of the shoots clinging to the climbing aid cannot do any harm either, because it stimulates strong, vital new shoots and growth.

    For always fresh, lush flowers, you should always cut off faded inflorescences as soon as possible.

    To remember:

    • Remove old, frozen shoots from the previous year after winter - in the case of farmer's and plate hydrangeas in late winter or early spring, in the case of ball or panicle hydrangeas in mid-spring
    • Rejuvenate climbing hydrangeas every spring

    withered

    The magnificent flowers of the hydrangea are pleasingly persistent. In addition, when individual inflorescences have faded, they still look very decorative and can be used as dry material for autumn bouquets. Of course, cutting it off is also worthwhile to encourage flowering. It is cheaper than removing with a cutting tool to break out the inflorescences by the stem, which is usually easy due to their dryness.
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    mildew

    Unfortunately, hydrangeas are not completely insensitive to diseases. In particular, powdery mildew can easily afflict them. You can recognize this fungus immediately by the floury, white, later greyish coating on the flat leaves. These turn brown as the infection progresses and then dry up.

    In the event of an infestation, you must remove and dispose of the diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible. Since the fungus only survives on living plants, this can be done on the compost. Then you should resort to a fungicide.

    As a preventative measure, hydrangeas should be protected from waterlogging. A nitrogenous fertilizer is also useful to make the plant tissue more resistant. You can provide the planting ground with a mulch layer - this ensures a soil environment that is more balanced in terms of temperature and moisture.
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    dried up

    The hydrangea does not easily forgive neglect in the water supply. Even when there is an acute lack of water, it lets its leaves droop. If it is forgotten for a long time in the summer, the entire plant can eventually degenerate into a sad, brown bush. Fortunately, that doesn't usually mean that it has died. As a rule, she still has enough lifeblood inside.

    Check if the hydrangea is still alive by slitting the shoots and examining for a green, succulent interior. Start in the outer branch area and, if you are unsuccessful in your search for greenery, penetrate further into the interior of the bush. Most of the time there will be a sign of life.

    The first measure after that is of course thorough watering. You can give specimens kept in buckets a diving cure. In the following days, continue watering regularly. However, waterlogging should also be avoided in this case.

    The hydrangea often recovers very quickly when it is watered again, after just a few days. When she puts on the first fresh shoots, it's time to thoroughly remove the dried parts of the plant.
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    divide

    If a hydrangea gets too big, it can be easily divided. However, the measure requires strength because of its compact root ball. The best way to work on the dug up or potted plant is with a sharp, clean saw. The reduced root ball should be dusted with charcoal powder before planting.
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    tip

    Not only the faded, dry inflorescences of the hydrangea are suitable as a permanent, decorative and rustic natural adornment in the house. You can also use the colored flower clusters, which are still in full bloom, for decorative purposes - and not just in fresh cut flower form for the vase, the beautiful sight of which is quickly gone.

    If you dry flowering inflorescences just like that, they will lose their color badly. You can counteract this with glycerin. Put the cut flower stalks in a glass with 100 ml of glycerin to 200 ml of water and let him absorb the mixture - when the absorption capacity is exhausted, drops will appear on the bracts. Then you can take the flower out and let it dry - the glycerine stored in the petals preserves the color and can give you a lasting splash of color in the room.

    species and varieties

    peasant hydrangea

    This species is the absolute classic among the hydrangeas in the local garden culture. It is characterized by its magnificent inflorescences, which are often bred into complete show flower clusters. In this species, the influence of the pH value in the soil also “works”.

    The "Endless Summer" group, for example, is popular as a variety, within which there are numerous special breeds. While it was initially only available in white, today you have a wide range of colors from soft pink tones to cool blue to bright raspberry pink, such as the "Summer Love" variant.

    As the name suggests, you can look forward to a particularly long flowering period from May to late autumn with Endless Summer farmhouse hydrangeas.

    The peasant hydrangea is so extremely popular not only because of its magnificent, classic appearance, but also because of its comparatively low maintenance requirements. The most important thing is an extensive and regular water supply.

    climbing hydrangea

    This form, which can climb house walls to great heights, still has its original inflorescences, i.e. with fertile central flowers and only show flowers on the outside. Without a climbing aid, it can also be used as a ground cover. All climbing hydrangea types have white flowers, but there are also variants with small special features: A very beautiful variety is, for example, the snow-white "Semiola" or the "Silver Linig" with variegated leaves. Both varieties retain their green foliage in winter and can grow up to 15 meters tall.

    Oak-Leaf Hydrangea

    This species stands out from the genus with its oak or maple-like lobed foliage, which also turns very attractive in reddish tones in autumn. Aside from the flowering period, it also offers a high ornamental value. Even with climbing hydrangeas, the flowers are still in their original state with a fertile center and a wreath of show flowers.

    A very pretty variety is the "Snowflake" with white flowers and fine accents in rosé. It brings a romantic freshness to the summer garden from July. In autumn there is another spectacle of color due to the bright reddish coloration of the leaves.

    The Snowflake has a broad, bushy, upright habit and reaches a height of about 1.50 m. In winter, it should be protected from frost with fir branches or jute.

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Vegetable garden