The fact that the misleading colloquial name "geranium" has become common for pelargonium can no longer be changed. As established as this naming error is its importance in the garden and especially the balcony box culture. Cheers to the pelargonium!

Geraniums are very popular balcony plants

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. origin
  2. growth
  3. leaves
  4. blossoms
  5. Colours
  6. When is flowering time?
  7. Which location is suitable?
  8. What soil does the plant need?
  9. What is the best planting time?
  10. balcony
  11. repot
  12. Water geraniums
  13. Fertilize geraniums properly
  14. Cut geraniums properly
  15. frost
  16. hibernate
  17. multiply geraniums
  18. cuttings
  19. Diseases
  20. Are geraniums poisonous?
  21. sorts

    22. origin

    The cornerstone for the widespread, albeit fairly well-known misnomer among gardeners, “geranium” instead of the systematically correct “pelargonium” was laid when it was introduced to Europe around 1700. Since then, the incorrect, if not entirely unfounded, misnomer has simply become commonplace - a typical phenomenon of linguistic momentum that is resistant to any correction efforts. The name is not entirely unfounded because pelargonium naturally belongs to the cranesbill family - botanically Geraniaceae. Just like real geraniums, i.e. cranesbills.

    Pelargonium was introduced from South Africa - this is also where its main distribution area is concentrated. Above all in the southernmost Cape region, but also up to Namibia, around 250 wild species thrive. However, some also grow in tropical, northern regions of Africa such as Tanzania, Kenya or Zimbabwe. A small group is also native to the Near East from Turkey to Iraq and Iran.

    The nature of their original habitat can therefore not be clearly defined - geraniums are adapted to different habitats depending on the species. However, the species cultivated by us as garden plants come mainly from southern South Africa, where there is a semi-humid, maritime climate with seasons. In our latitudes, they can therefore be cultivated without any problems. However, the winters in their original habitat are much milder than here, which is why permanent outdoor cultivation is not possible here.

    Overview of the origin of pelargonium:

    • The species relevant to our garden culture come from southern South Africa
    • Are therefore adapted to semi-humid, maritime, seasonal climate
    • Get along well with us, but local winters are too cold

    growth

    Pelargoniums usually grow as perennials, but there are also annual species and those with a really shrubby habit. There are also succulent species. Most of the species we cultivate are perennials. A distinction is made between hanging geraniums, standing geraniums and scented geraniums. The latter show particularly strong, upright, semi-shrub growth and lush flowers. But hanging geraniums also grow bushy and vigorous. Pelargoniums usually reach a height of around 30 to 40 cm and become woody from below as they get older.

    Growth characteristics in keywords:

    • With us cultivated geraniums mostly perennials
    • Bushy, vigorous growth, upright and semi-shrub-like or overhanging, depending on the species
    • Growth height about 30 to 40 cm
    • Slight lignification with age

    leaves

    The stalked leaves of pelargonium have a typically lobed contour and are alternate on the lower sections of the stem and opposite on the upper sections with stipules. In some varieties, the foliage is beautifully patterned.

    blossoms

    The biological zygomorphic structure of the flowers shows the systematic difference to all other cranesbill plants. The flowers are usually terminal in umbellate groups or in the shoot axils. Some varieties form downright spherical clusters of flowers. The individual flowers are in fives and usually show a wide, open flower plate, some varieties also appear a little more delicate with narrower, longer petals.

    Flower characteristics in brief:

    • Terminal or axillary, mostly in umbellate groups
    • Zygomorphic structure, fivefold
    • Often broad, open flower plates, also more filigree depending on the variety

    Colours

    Pelargoniums have long been one of the most popular garden and balcony plants and are available in countless varieties - there is no shortage of colors here. Of course, red varieties look particularly classic, but the color palette also includes white and pink to violet. Artistic, two-tone varieties with attractive striped or speckled patterns in blue-white or pink-pink are now often available.
    Continue reading

    When is flowering time?

    Pelargoniums have not only been valued for so long for their lush, colorful and long-distance splendor. The flowers also delight with a pleasing persistence and adorn balconies and terraces throughout the summer with their rustic, hearty charm. The flowering period often lasts from May to September. For a vital new formation and a well-groomed flower appearance, you should regularly clean out faded stands.
    Continue reading

    Which location is suitable?

    Pelargoniums can be grown in full sun as well as in partially shaded places. The more sun they get, the more blooms they will produce. Due to the somewhat fragile structure of the shoots, you should not expose them to strong winds. Large-flowered varieties in particular can also be damaged by heavy rain or hail during summer thunderstorms. A rain-protected location is therefore not wrong.

    To remember:

    • Location can be sunny to semi-shady
    • More flowering with more sun
    • Not too strong wind, some shelter from heavy rain

    Continue reading

    What soil does the plant need?

    Pelargoniums need a fairly nutrient-rich, loose and permeable planting ground. It is not without reason that there are special geranium soils in specialist shops. This is already well pre-fertilized and has good, even water absorption properties and an airy structure.

    Of course, marketing geranium soil is also a business - the properties mentioned can also be achieved with the right individual ingredients. The experienced hobby gardener basically mixes his own soil anyway. Pelargonium thrives just as well in universal potting soil, which you provide with a permanent supply of nutrients in the form of good compost and horn shavings (32.93€) as well as a loosening sand component for drainage.

    Earth claims in brief:

    • Nutritious, loose and permeable
    • If you want it easy: geranium soil
    • But you can also make your own mixtures with universal potting soil, compost, horn shavings and sand

    What is the best planting time?

    Since geraniums do not tolerate frost, outdoor cultivation is only possible after the last frosts. That usually means after the ice saints in May. However, it is advisable to buy young plants at the end of winter and to grow them in a bright, cool place in the balcony box. Place about 5 young plants in fresh, organically long-term fertilized soil in a large balcony box about one meter long and grow them until mid-May, giving them even watering.
    Continue reading

    balcony

    Pelargoniums are the epitome of rustic window and balcony ornaments. In fact, a place close to the house is also ideal for sun worshipers who are slightly sensitive to the weather. In addition, a deep balcony box with sufficient drainage holes is also very suitable as a planter. Here the geraniums have enough space for a nutrient-rich planting ground. With enough drainage holes in the bottom of the balcony box, a hanging position on the balcony railing also prevents waterlogging, which geraniums cannot tolerate at all.

    A south-facing balcony with plenty of sunshine is of course best for promoting a high abundance of flowers and willing growth.
    Continue reading

    repot

    You can overwinter pelargoniums indoors - but since they are heavy feeders, you should place them in fresh substrate every spring. A larger planter than a usual balcony box is not usually necessary due to the generally limited growth size. Rather, it is important that the new substrate offers a fresh supply of nutrients and, of course, effective drainage in the form of some sand.
    Continue reading

    Water geraniums

    In general, pelargoniums need a lot of water, but they are also very sensitive to waterlogging. It is therefore important to water regularly and extensively, but to ensure effective drainage and good drainage when planting. Always keep a close eye on your pelargoniums in the window box and regularly reach for the watering can, especially in hot, sunny phases in summer. The soil should always be slightly moist, but pelargoniums also tolerate shorter dry periods.

    Fertilize geraniums properly

    Apart from the constant supply of organic fertilizer in the potting soil, you should fertilize the nutrient-needing geraniums regularly during the main vegetation phase - at least if you value beautiful, lush flowering. Of course, pelargoniums can survive without fertilizer, but then they produce far fewer flowers and more foliage.

    You should start fertilizing 2 to 3 weeks after planting. It is best to use a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants. There are also special geranium fertilizers. Add some to the irrigation water once a week or once every 2 to 3 weeks depending on how the buds are developing.
    Continue reading

    Cut geraniums properly

    No formal pruning is necessary during the growing season throughout the summer. But regular cleaning. Because the faded inflorescences should always be removed quickly so that new ones can follow. The leaves can also become increasingly dry and form a lot of brownish material, which is detrimental to a well-groomed appearance. You can also simply pluck out such material by hand.

    However, a pruning is urgently needed before wintering. Too much remaining plant material demands far too much energy from the hibernating plant, which can even lead to its death. So trim them down thoroughly.

    To do this, take them out of the box and shake off the soil. Then use sharp scissors to cut down all the shoots to about 10 cm, leaving at least two eyes each. If possible, remove all the leaves as well, so as not to leave any plant material that needs to be taken care of and is susceptible to diseases - even if the skeleton-like sight afterwards may seem a bit sad.

    If you make the main cut less radical before wintering, you should cut back the geraniums a little in spring when repotting. Here, however, only the dry shoot ends have to be removed in order to promote vital new growth.
    Continue reading

    frost

    Pelargoniums are not frost hardy. In their homeland, the Cape region of South Africa, there is a mild, Mediterranean-like climate with frost-free winters. That's why they don't survive our winter outdoors. However, they do need cool temperatures for the winter months.
    Continue reading

    hibernate

    You can overwinter pelargoniums without any problems. To do this, take them out of their summer planters in autumn before the first frosts and prepare for winter dormancy with a thorough pruning: shorten all shoots except for two eyes and remove as many leaves as possible. This means that the plant has less to look after in the cold, low-light period and is less susceptible to diseases and pests.

    Place the plants prepared in this way in pots with sandy soil for the winter and place them in a bright, cool place. The ideal ambient temperature is around 5-10°C. Favorable locations are, for example, a bright window seat in an unheated stairwell, a cold building or an attic with a skylight.

    To remember:

    • Overwintering is possible without any problems, with the right preparatory measures
    • Thorough pruning necessary - shorten all shoots to about 10 cm in length
    • remove sheet material
    • Place in a sandy soil substrate and place in a light and cool place (5-10°C).

    Continue reading

    multiply geraniums

    Pelagronia is best propagated by cuttings. Seed cultivation is also possible, but very laborious and time-consuming, so it is not recommended.

    It is best to propagate the cuttings in early spring or in the late summer. Cut out a young, healthy shoot from the mother plant. You should use sharp, clean scissors for this, as the cut is somewhat susceptible to rot. The lower leaves and any side shoots are removed. Then place the cuttings in a planter with potting soil and water carefully.

    The cultivation vessel should not be particularly bright, but should be relatively warm. The chance of growth is highest in a slightly shaded greenhouse at 20°C. You can also pull the cuttings under foil, but open the foil from time to time to air it out. Regular moisturizing goes without saying.
    Continue reading

    cuttings

    See the Propagation section.
    Continue reading

    Diseases

    The topic of diseases is unfortunately a very central one with pelargoniums. They are relatively susceptible to infectious bacterial or viral diseases, some of which are even named after them, such as geranium rust - the most common disease in pelargoniums.

    geranium rust

    This fungal infection causes the leaves of the geranium to turn yellowish or brownish. Brown spots and pustules may also appear. If you identify the disease, you should remove all diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible, because the risk of infection is very high. A fungicide is then the safest choice. The disease is caused by wet leaves - a rain-protected location is therefore recommended.

    Pythium fungus

    This is a soil fungus that causes the plant to wilt and stun. The cause of its occurrence is waterlogging. You must remove diseased plant parts immediately and replace the substrate. A fungicide application is also useful.

    cork stains

    Cork stains are actually not a disease, but tissue scarring on the underside of the leaf, which occurs when there is too much water, too cold temperatures or too little light. However, cork stains do not harm the pelargonium, they only spoil the aesthetics. So you only have to remove the stained leaves if they bother you.

    However, you can prevent all of these diseases with a sunny, airy location and good water drainage.

    Pests also attack geraniums relatively frequently, especially thrisps, aphids or spider mites
    Continue reading

    Are geraniums poisonous?

    Pelargonium is harmless to us humans. The flowers of the scented geranium are even edible and the basis for aromatic delicacies such as liqueur or blossom butter.

    However, the sap of geraniums contains substances that can also cause skin irritation in humans and can even be very dangerous for small animals. In particular, small rodents such as rabbits, guinea pigs or hamsters should be kept away from pelargoniums as much as possible.
    Continue reading

    sorts

    Hanging geraniums and standing geraniums are particularly relevant for our local garden culture. Scented geraniums are also popular, but they are mainly kept in their leaves because of the fragrant, essential oils from which delicious delicacies can be prepared. The variety of varieties is enormous. Here is a selection.

    hanging geraniums

    This species is botanically called Pelargonium peltatum and is the absolute classic for balcony box planting. Varieties such as the Tyrolean hanging geranium, which is available in bright, classic colors such as red or white, are very popular because they are robust and attractive. Its shoots reach a length of around 1.50 m - this results in beautiful cascades with lush, tufted umbelliferous inflorescences. These appear in May and can persist into October.

    Hanging geranium varieties such as "White Glacier" show very delicate, airy inflorescences. They also flower for a long time from May to October. However, their tendrils are not as long as those of the Tyrolean hanging geraniums, only about 70 cm.

    In addition, there are some half or fully double varieties whose flowers appear rose-like.They usually grow a little more compact and are a little sensitive to rain because of the artistic flowers.

    Standing geraniums

    This species, botanically Pelargonium hortorum, shows an upright habit with strong shoots. The varieties often show very colorful flowers in white to pink or orange and are up to about 40 cm high.

    The Xtreme rose variety, for example, is very classic with its large, deep pink flowers that turn pink in the middle and are arranged in loose groups.

    There are also varieties with double flowers among the standing geraniums - the "Appleblossom", for example, delights with numerous small, rose-like flowers in greenish white with a pink exterior, which are held together in dense, ball-like clusters. This variety also flowers continuously from May to October, but needs a lot of trimming.

    scented geraniums

    Anyone who likes to make culinary delicacies themselves can do a lot with scented geraniums - prepare liqueurs, prepare flower butter or flavor summer showers. But you can also keep scented geraniums for a pleasant ambient scent in the summer garden. Another practical advantage: their essential oils keep mosquitoes and pests away, so they are good for us and for neighboring garden plants.

    The variety of scented geraniums is immeasurable. You will find variants in countless scent directions, so you can choose according to your taste. The flowers play a subordinate role in all scented geraniums.

    If you have a weakness for citrus scents, types such as the lemony-smelling "Lemon Fizz", the orange-like scented "Prince of Orange" or the finely bitter-grapefruit-like "Toronto" are suitable.

    Other fruity-smelling varieties include the apricot-like "Madame Nonin" and the fresh, apple-like "Apple Mint".

    Varieties such as "Felty Radens" with a menthol-like, balsamic orientation or - for all After Eight fans - the "Chocolate Peppermint" with a chocolatey aftertaste smell minty and fresh. The “Coconut” resonates with something exotically southern.

    Varieties such as "Attar of Roses" or "Rosemarie" exude a rosy, elegantly flowery scent.

Category:

Indoor plants