Oleander (Nerium oleander), a woody, evergreen plant, originally comes from the Mediterranean region, where it prefers to grow in moist floodplain regions. The shrub, which can be up to three meters high, is also popular in Germany because of its magnificent flowers - preferably in tubs, since oleanders - with the exception of a few varieties - are not hardy. The flowering shrub is quite easy to care for and easy to propagate.

Oleander is best propagated by cuttings

Particularly easy: propagation via cuttings

The vegetative propagation of the oleander is particularly easy if you root the annual clippings either in a water glass or in lean soil. In principle, all shoots can be used as cuttings, provided they are at least 15 centimeters long. However, rooting works best with young, not yet woody branches. These should be pruned between June and September.

  • Cut off the shoots just below a leaf node.
  • From there, the cutting forms roots and new shoots.
  • Ideally, the cuttings are between 15 and 25 centimeters long
  • and still have soft, green wood.
  • The cutting surface should be slightly slanted to make it easier for the cutting to absorb water.
  • Use a sharp and clean knife for this.
  • A pair of scissors, on the other hand, is unsuitable because you only squeeze the cable tracks with them.
  • Remove the bottom pairs of leaves, leaving only the top one.
  • Place the cutting in a glass of fresh, lukewarm water.
  • This should be changed daily.
  • Put the jar in a bright and warm place
  • however, avoid direct sunlight.
  • The first fine roots form after about four weeks.
  • If there are enough roots, the plant can be planted in a humus-rich substrate.

Instead of putting them in a glass of water, you can also place the cuttings in a lean growing substrate. However, keep the substrate evenly moist and ensure high humidity. You can achieve this by putting a disposable glass or a cut-off PET bottle over the cutting.

Works great on older plants: divide oleanders

Oleander grows very bushy and usually has three or even more strong main shoots. Older oleanders can be easily divided the next time they are repotted by severing the root system so that each new plant receives at least one of these main shoots. Then plant the individual pieces in new buckets. Oleander should be divided as early as possible in the year, before the flowers form - it is best to do this in April. Then the divided individual plants have enough opportunity to form new flowers and the blooming rush does not fail this season.

Growing oleanders from seed

Older oleanders in particular form seed pods, provided the faded shoots are not cut off. From these you can get the seeds you need for breeding, but the seedlings you get will very likely look different than the mother plant - mutations and the emergence of unknown genetic material is not the exception with this type of propagation, but the rule. Because it doesn't get cold in the homeland of the oleander in winter, you don't need to stratify the seeds. Instead, you can sow them immediately. The best time for sowing, however, is late winter or early spring, i. H. in February or March. The seeds germinate best in an indoor greenhouse in a light and warm spot. However, do not lose patience if after several weeks there are still no seedlings to be seen: sometimes it takes a while.

  • Use lean potting soil or coconut substrate ("cocohum") for cultivation.
  • Pour this into a shallow bowl with holes at the bottom,
  • any excess irrigation water can drain off there.
  • Allow the seeds to soak for at least six hours before sowing.
  • Use lukewarm water for this.
  • Cover the seeds only very lightly with sieved soil,
  • because oleanders need light to germinate.
  • Keep the substrate evenly moist.
  • An atomizer is particularly suitable for this.

The young plants can be transferred to a more nutritious substrate as soon as they have developed at least one pair of leaves in addition to the two cotyledons. Make sure that the seedlings in the seed tray are not too close together, otherwise the fine roots can get tangled up in each other and you will not get the young plants transplanted into individual planters without damage.

tips

When cutting oleander cuttings, faded shoots or seed pods, you should never do this without gloves! All plant parts of the flowering shrub are highly poisonous, which is especially true for the milky sap. Contact with the skin can cause irritation (e.g. rashes), but - if the juice gets into open wounds and thus into the bloodstream - it can also cause symptoms of poisoning.

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Trees