Now it is in front of you, the material for your self-built insect hotel. Just screw everything together, it can't be that difficult! Actually, it isn't. Nevertheless, small mistakes keep creeping in, which ultimately lead to the insect hotel remaining uninhabited. There are a few things to consider, especially with the rear wall. Here you will find important tips.
A rear wall protects the insect hotel from the weather and predators
Is a back wall necessary?
A back wall on an insect hotel (€11.33) has both advantages and disadvantages. Many models do not require a back panel due to the construction or material of the case alone. For example:
- Insect hotels from a tree disc
- Insect hotels in the wagon wheel
- Insect hotels made from pallets
Many insects even prefer the possibility of entry from both sides. On the other hand, birds have an easy time pecking the brood out of the bamboo tubes. If you opt for an insect hotel without a back wall, you must ensure that the equipment is long enough to ensure safe breeding.
What material?
Be sure to use hardwood for the back wall of your insect hotel. This is for the following reasons:
- longevity
- risk of injury
longevity
Soft wood cracks easily. Moisture collects here. Your insect hotel is in danger of going moldy.
risk of injury
Here, too, the cracks play a decisive role: bees, wasps and lacewings slit their filigree wings on sharp-edged wood.
Avoid cracks
However, if you choose the wrong drilling direction, cracks will also form in the hardwood. Never drill parallel to the grain, but always in the opposite direction. If there are any bumps, you should sand them down with sandpaper.
Put up an insect hotel
If there is little space in the garden, or to protect the insect hotel from cats, it is advisable to hang up the shelter. So that your insect hotel does not sway in the wind, the eyelet is not attached to the roof but to the rear wall. This allows you to nail your insect hotel firmly to a tree.